If Chinese history is a long river, then every historical stage that has appeared in history should be a trickle in this river.

Although the Republic of China only existed for thirty-eight years, it left many memorable people and events to future generations. Occasionally flipping through the scrolls about the Republic of China, I find that in addition to politics, the food culture in the history of the Republic of China is also gratifying.

The author believes that if we analyze the food of the Republic of China from a historical perspective, it is not difficult to find that the food that was favored by people at that time almost all contained the charm of a combination of Manchu and Han and a combination of Chinese and Western styles. This is actually closely related to historical inheritance and social changes. Although the Revolution of 1911 overthrew the feudal rule system, it could not completely eliminate the Chinese culture that has lasted for thousands of years from its roots.

This culture includes not only various customs in people’s daily lives, but also humanities, clothing, and food culture. It is no exaggeration to say that one of the most important factors why Chinese history can be passed down for thousands of years is the inheritance of food customs. Although dynasties changed frequently in ancient history, the food culture accumulated in people's lives has remained the same.

From the inception and development of farming civilization to its mature stage, people’s dietary structure and daily food customs have also changed with the continuous changes in society. When material resources are scarce, the diet structure will be relatively simple. However, when the social economy develops to a certain height, the diet will not only develop into diversification but also start a cultural journey.

After thousands of years of great changes, the food culture of the Republic of China was actually closely related to the social environment at that time. There is not only the inheritance and innovation of ancient food culture, but also the integration of Chinese and Western food cultures. However, there are many street snacks with Chinese cultural charm that have always maintained their original taste.

Street snacks with unique food culture charm during the Republic of China

1. The cultural charm of "street snacks" in the Republic of China

As the name suggests, "street snacks" are everywhere in the streets and alleys It is visible, but it is not a folk food that can reach the level of elegance. From this perspective, the main target audience of "street food" is actually the common people wandering in the market. The author believes that although this type of food cannot be put on the table, it can win with its low price and unique taste.

In fact, most of the "street snacks" during the Republic of China followed the Qing Dynasty, under the influence of the idea that "food is the first thing for the people, and fresh food is the most important thing". Whether you are a high-ranking official in the upper class or a commoner at the bottom of society, one of the most important tasks in daily life is to fill your stomach. Although there are essential differences between food culture and the food we eat, the ultimate goal is to maintain life.

In fact, no matter during the Qing Dynasty or the Republic of China, the most popular "street snacks" were to set up stalls everywhere, or to walk through the streets and alleys with a heavy load, shouting loudly. The groups who have a special liking for street snacks are generally ordinary people's families or those engaged in heavy manual labor. Because "street food" is not only cheap but also plentiful and delicious.

The author believes that the cultural attributes of street snacks in the Republic of China include not only the inheritance and development of the special snacks of the Qing Dynasty, but also the unique innovative concepts of the Republic of China.

When these two food cultures were integrated, a snack culture with distinctive Republican characteristics was produced, as well as a variety of mouth-watering street snacks from the Republic of China.

2. "Street snacks" with historical charm in the Republic of China

Beiping was the political, economic and cultural center during the Republic of China, so "street snacks" were also most famous in Peiping. Most of the street snacks at that time were inherited from the late Qing Dynasty. Old Beijing’s candied haws, bean juice, cut cakes, grilled cakes, jelly, as well as pea yellows, sugar figures, enema, cheese, etc., are still enduring in modern society.

(1) Old Beijing Candied Haws

"Candied Haws" is one of the special winter snacks in the northern region. After winter, vendors selling candied haws will sell it along the streets. The loud and high-pitched "Candied Haws" resounds through the streets and alleys. After hearing the shouts, children will run out of their homes to buy a bunch of candied haws and eat them while walking. This phenomenon is still very popular in the Northeast.

"The candied haws are sweet and sweet, and the red hawthorns are round and round. They are arranged in rows and bunches. Try it and smile, nodding your head without saying anything. Tell me whether you like it or not."

This familiar and warm nursery rhyme has accompanied generations of people. Even many adults in modern society still have a soft spot for street snacks such as candied haws.

According to legend, candied haws on a stick originated during the Shaoxi period of the Southern Song Dynasty. Song Guangzong’s favorite concubine was about to die due to illness. The imperial doctors in the palace were helpless, so a wandering Taoist priest diagnosed the concubine's pulse and prescribed a cure. The main medicinal material in this prescription is hawthorn. Decoction 5-10 pills with water and rock sugar after meals every day, then drink the hawthorn water and eat the cooked hawthorn.

What is unexpected is that the concubine really recovered from her illness after this treatment. From then on, the candied haws of sugar-coated haws became the royal dish in the palace. And gradually spread to the people and became the street snack "honey bomb", which is made from a single hawthorn dipped in sugar. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, people removed the core of the hawthorn, tied it up with bamboo skewers, and then hung it with rock sugar icing to become candied haws.

In fact, there is another theory about the origin of candied haws as a street snack. In the Ming Dynasty, there was a single red fruit dipped in sugar, known as "Tang Dui'er". Whether it is "Honey Bomb" or "Tang Dui'er", the main raw materials are hawthorn and rock sugar. This is actually the candied haws that is very common in modern society.

During the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, someone wrote a poem specifically for the candied haws on a gourd, "The road is full of muddy ponds in the snowy weather, and it's hard to walk by the side of the car. The three feet are shaking and the wind is about to break, and the gourds are dipped in rock sugar." ". This poem is actually the contemporary description of candied haws on a stick. It not only vividly reflects the appearance of candied haws, but also describes the taste of candied haws.

(2) Soybean juice

"Double juice" is actually the soybean milk that everyone is familiar with, but this common drink that originated in the streets of Peiping during the Republic of China was not made from grinding and boiling soybeans. Soy milk formed. It is a drink made from fermented mung bean residue. It is said that bean juice has a documented history of 300 years.

If you look at it from this perspective, "bean juice" should have been formed in the late Ming Dynasty and is one of the must-have drinks for ordinary people every morning. It is said that "bean juice" was once the imperial meal during the Qianlong period. This can be confirmed from the text in a memorial, "I asked Yunbu to recruit two or three bean juice craftsmen and sent them to the imperial dining room as servants."

I believe that many people who have drank soy juice have a love-hate relationship with it. They love it because it is fresh and nutritious and nourish the body, but they hate it because the swill-like smell makes it difficult to swallow. People who are new to soy juice will have the urge to stay away from it at first, but after holding their noses and taking a few sips, their feelings will be different. Some people even stop drinking it because they are addicted.

(3) Pea Huang'er

"Pea Huang'er" was originally just a popular street snack among the people. Later, because Cixi especially liked to eat this kind of food, "Pea Huang'er" was "The reputation grew and grew, and eventually it became a mouth-watering palace snack. During the Republic of China, this snack was basically stuck in the streets and alleys of the people. Both adults and children loved this food very much.

"Pea Huang'er" is made from the best white peas, peeled and washed, then grated, boiled, fried with sugar, coagulated and cut into pieces. It can be said that as a snack that best represents the food culture of the Republic of China, it not only condenses the wisdom of countless working people, but is also an indispensable representative food in Chinese food culture.

A poem in "Hundred Odes of Food in the Old Capital" once said: "The food has always belonged to Yanjing, and the yellow peas have long been famous. The red dates are embedded with gold chips, and Huang Qiong can be bought for ten coins."

This poem describes the origin of pea yellow, as well as the production method, raw materials and price. "Huang Qiong" truly expresses the color and shape of pea yellow.

According to the custom in Peiping during the Republic of China, every household on the third day of the third lunar month would eat pea yellow. Therefore, every spring when pea yellows are on the market, they will be snapped up by everyone. In order to satisfy people's love for pea yellows, many large-scale pastry shops at that time would be busy making this snack and supplying it until spring. end.

Judging from the types of "pea huang'er" during the Republic of China, one is a palace snack made by "Fangshan"; while the other is a rougher pea sold by vendors in the streets. Huang'er. These two snacks were both called pea huang'er at the time, but they were quite different in terms of materials, craftsmanship and price.

(4) Sugar Man

Due to the constant wars during the Republic of China, people’s lives were relatively difficult. However, in order to make life more enjoyable, many people at the bottom of society would go to work. "Candy people" are running around the streets. Although this ancient traditional skill is rare in modern society, in the Republic of China, vendors carrying burdens to make candy can be seen everywhere.

As the name suggests, "Sugar Man" is a figure made of sugar. As an ancient and traditional handicraft, it was widely spread in the society of the Republic of China. Vendors who make candy figures will carry a load through the streets and alleys. On one end of the load is a small stove for heating the syrup, and on the other end are sugar ingredients and tools for making candy figures.

Tangren’s sugar is made by heating sucrose and maltose. Under normal circumstances, the color of the syrup is mostly brown. But there are also some ingenious vendors who add pigments to the sugar syrup, so that the original brown sugar color will appear red or green. When making the sugar figures, place the sugar syrup in a copper spoon and use a carbon pan to keep it warm so the sugar syrup does not solidify.

The vendor will mold different images according to the customer's wishes, and then use a bamboo tube or reed stick to blow the sugar with his mouth to expand the sugar. In this way, you can fabricate and finalize the image of the candy figure you want to create as you like. Candy people were a favorite of children during the Republic of China. Various vivid characters or animals would make many children reluctant to eat them.

(4) Enema

"Enema" is not a real animal fat intestine, but a pig intestine-like food made of dough and red yeast rice. When selling "enema", vendors will cut it into thin slices, fry it in lard on a pan, and put it in a bowl or plate with garlic juice and salt water. The taste is somewhat similar to the pancake fruit in modern society. .

The vendors selling "enema" also walk along the street carrying a load. One end of the load is a shallow flat stove, and a fire is always lit underneath to ensure that the food is cooked quickly. For many rickshaw pullers or coolies carrying large bags during the Republic of China, it was a pleasure to buy a few steamed buns and eat an "enema".

Conclusion

Although the Republic of China has been submerged in the torrent of history, the street snacks at that time have spread to modern society over time. Candied haws, bean juice, pea yellow, enema and other snacks with a strong Republic of China flavor are still people's favorites in daily life in the north. Although the taste may no longer be authentic or lose the charm of the Republic of China, the author believes that what people eat is actually feelings.

The Republic of China is a relatively special historical stage in Chinese history. Although it lasted for a relatively short time, it left many cultural customs worth remembering for future generations.

The Manchu survivors in the Republic of China society were actually the faithful inheritors of the street snacks of the Republic of China. To this day, many snacks with the flavor of the Republic of China are still sold in night markets in various cities.