It's getting cold in Beijing.

The lingering fear of the last epidemic has gradually disappeared from the sixth district of the city. People can't stay at home all the time. It's time to go out for a walk.

Don't run away either. Look for an alley. The old tree house can provide shade, bite a popsicle, open a bottle of Arctic Ocean, and listen to the gossip in front of the old Wang Xietang to find some popularity. It's more interesting than shopping.

the idea of drawing insects

Especially many hutongs in Beijing, it sounds very attractive.

Is the fried beans in Fried Bean Hutong delicious? Will a street in Mutton Hutong be full of instant-boiled mutton? I've come up with a amorous feelings painting.

Beijingers always choose place names simply and directly, and say whatever they have. The ancient capital has a thousand years, and there is no shortage of literati, but the people have the right to place names. Everyone knows there is Miaoying Temple, but everyone still calls it Baita Temple, and the common name will always work.

including naming the hutong with food-they wrote all the favorite bites in the city on the map, telling you that you can't miss so many meals when you come to Beijing.

First of all, the well-deserved number one is mutton-

In a Beijing, there were five mutton hutongs, which were distributed everywhere with the same name and surname.

As far as Beijingers' obsession with sheep is concerned, this is very reasonable. Apart from wool, they eat whatever sheep grow-

Slice the upper brain meat, roast it with oil on the grill, rinse the pot on the hind legs, make mutton with ribs in the waist, and sheep scorpion hot pot pulls the pulled noodles when it tastes delicious, so that the belly is crisp and tender like fresh cucumber, and the tail of the sheep is fried with sesame oil.

don't spoil anything. With such a large demand, so many processes and few mutton hutongs, it is really impossible for Beijingers to eat so much.

One of the most famous ones is the Mutton Hutong near Fuchengmen. In the era of Mr. Lao She, the business of slaughtering live sheep with broadswords was mostly around Xisipailou. Later, however, its landmarks were the Geological Auditorium, the later Gem Company and Xisi Bun Shop.

There used to be a mutton alley near Dongdan, but it was later renamed Yangyi Hutong, which was once famous for its delicious food.

However, its true identity is the first stop for Japanese cuisine to come to Beijing!

This is not an old overflowing alley. In the past, overflowing hutong was east-west.

Beijing people's voice

In the 192s, it became one of the concentrated places of Japanese food in Beijing, and there was once a "flag pavilion" with both catering and accommodation functions, named Changchun Pavilion, which was the highest standard Japanese food at that time.

before the anti-Japanese war, there were many Japanese people near Dongdan archway and Chongwenmen, and the concentration of Japanese food around here was no less than that of today's lantern street in Liangmaqiao, where Hu Shi had his first Japanese food with Ryunosuke Akutagawa in Beijing.

until the liberation, Japanese food in Beijing still existed before the Cultural Revolution. In 1983, the "Cutting and Cooking Baiyun" of the Friendship Hotel continued this crop. The history of Beijing people eating Japanese food began in Mutton Hutong, and it has been a hundred years.

photo by Lu xinzhang and others

there is probably only one mutton alley that still sells mutton. How many times is this one better than others? It's genuine, just like the real one-

It was also called Mutton Hutong in the Ming Dynasty, and later it was called Raw Meat Hutong. In contrast, there is a cooked meat Hutong next to it. They are today's Shouliu Hutong and Input Hutong, both in the paradise of meat eaters, niujie!

hongji snack bar, bring a bag of toothpick meat with loose meat, and don't forget to wait a little longer for the beef and green onion buns to come out of the pot and take a bite. Remember cooked food next door, buy sauce beef and some original soup from the shopkeeper to cook noodles; The captain of the pork chops who is suspected of jubaoyuan is even a guest porch; Dashuntang is a halal cooking dish that neighbors have recognized for decades. Turpan is the first Xinjiang restaurant in Beijing ... This is just cooked. Next to the beef and mutton market, I want to rinse and roast. Why not?

Even if this is the only mutton alley in Beijing, it will be enough.

public comment: small packets of paper love fish

besides mutton, the other thing that Beijingers love is sauce-the Yonghe Palace has a sauce landlord's alley and a sauce room's alley, while Gangwa City has a big sauce lane and a small sauce lane.

Not only do they really love sauce, but they also raise sauce to a lofty position:

Anything called "sauce XX" is definitely not the main ingredient in the back, but must be sauce.

If you eat beef with soy sauce in Beijing, it must be real "soy sauce" beef. There must be small pieces of soy sauce beans in the soft and rotten cooked meat, instead of just stewing it with soy sauce, clear sauce and yellow sauce, so the treatment is different.

Another example is Tianfu's sauce elbow. Its skin is purple and shiny, and it's stewed badly, but it doesn't taste like aniseed, and it's not even too salty (full of taste), which is the fragrance of sauce and the original taste of meat.

Tianfu official Weibo

There is pickles, which used to be made in Jiangfang Hutong-

Although today they are all called pickles, in Beijing, pickles are of higher grade than pickles pickled with salt alone. There are no pickles in the imperial palace of Qing Dynasty, but there are many pickles, such as king melon, radish, eggplant and nectar, carrots, peas, cucumbers and hazelnuts, which are fried with lean diced pork and yellow sauce. They are nicknamed the "four big sauces" of the court.

China Famous Cuisine Collection

Except mutton and sauce, anything with food in the same name of Hu in Beijing is indispensable.

For example, Duofu Lane was originally called Tofu Lane, and there is a Tofu Pool Hutong north of the Bell Tower. Beijingers love to eat tofu. There is a taste of tofu in the Kunyu Pavilion, and tofu in the Jinan Pavilion and the Muslim Pavilion. There are tofu mixed with shallots and Tofu mixed with Tofu in the following drinks, and fried tofu cooked in pot, stinky tofu in Wang Zhihe, dripping sesame oil and chopped green onion to fry the steamed bread, which is the only thing in the world.

China Food Culture

It is worth mentioning that it is the simplest one, and it can still be eaten today, but it is rarely heard that it is called chicken-sliced tofu: in fact, it is extremely tender south tofu in a plate, sprinkled with salt and sesame oil, and eaten while mixing, and the tofu is broken, just like a chicken's paw.

Today, I went to Baoruimen to nail meat pie or Warwick meat pie, and asked for a dish of spring onion tofu. This is what I came up with. At first glance, it was a fool, but it was actually a story.

Public comment: Ordinary World _1953

There is also the North Officialdom Hutong, which used to be called Enema Hutong. There is a special hutong that betrayed fried enema. How many people like it? Shaojiu Hutong, in the south of it, used to be called shochu Hutong. There was a wine shop handed down from Guanglu Temple in the Ming Dynasty, and fried enema served wine, which was also quite good.

Dongjiaomin Lane used to be Dongjiang Rice Lane, which specializes in Jiangmi, Zizyphus jujuba, rice dumplings, rice cakes and Aiwowo snowballing without it.

Manma Kitchen

The Youguo Hutong near Zhao Dengyu Road no longer exists. In the past, it was called Fried Ghost Hutong. There are more fried ghosts in Beijing than fried dough sticks, as well as fried dough twists, sweet oil ghosts and so on, and maybe fried oil cakes are also counted. People all over the city eat this, and it can be served with bean curd noodles, tea, soybean milk, bean juice, adzuki bean porridge and beans, but the sesame oil ghost is the iron partner.

The fried food in Changying Kaiyizhai is still abundant, but most of the "oil ghosts" in old Beijing have disappeared.

Some hutongs are also named after eating, but that kind of food has disappeared or is rare, and the area has lost its original function. Like Fried Rice Hutong and Fried Noodles Hutong-

Today, fried rice is more common in Mongolian restaurants, and it is not so daily food when served together with a large pot of milk tea and a small bowl of yogurt. If it weren't for the popularity of fried noodles in the past two years, many children didn't know that the "one bite of fried noodles and a handful of snow" to resist US aggression and aid Korea was eating this, and it was still Shanghai fried noodles and fried Yifu noodles. It has long since faded out of people's lives, and naturally it is no longer sold in hutongs.

Every Hu with the same name that has had fragrance is the trace that Beijingers once lived like this. In the era when there was no comment, online celebrity, or even the internet, this is a food map woven by the people here for the world.

nowadays, the meaning of food map of hutong names in Beijing has changed with the changes of cities.

Fangzhuanchang Hutong has become synonymous with Zhajiang Noodles. Everyone knows how to drink noodles in Daxing Hutong. In the past, they didn't sell braised doorframe Hutong, but now they are free to choose.

noodle tea in Daxing Hutong

The only thing that hasn't changed is that people in this city are still chasing the blood of delicious food and rushing in every hutong.

running water doesn't compete first, but it's endless. This kind of Beijing will not be without food.

The pictures in this article are partly from the Internet

References:

[1] Wu Yunyun. A preliminary study of restaurants in Beijing in the early Republic of China (1912-1927)[D]. Zhejiang Gongshang University, 219.5.

[2] 1996 (April): 6-1. < P > [3] Wang Yuebo. Yue Chi Yue Happy [OL]. Yun Ting app,22-221.

[4] Liang Shiqiu. Fried dough sticks with sesame seeds [M]. Essays by Yashe (up and down), Tianjin, Tianjin Education Press, June 26.

Author-VJ

Editor-VJ

Photography-Futao Editorial Department

Design-Director Bao.