An atmosphere was formed at that time. As long as you follow China's writing style and style, you will be more popular in the society, and often become famous and successful. You can eat your own mutton. On the contrary, it tastes terrible, only "drinking soup".
"Su Wen is ripe and eats mutton; Su Wensheng, eat vegetable soup. " This is the Song Dynasty's praise for Su San's articles, especially Su Shi's. Lu You recorded in Notes on the Old Learning Temple: "Since Yan was founded, scholars have followed Su's articles, and scholars are particularly prosperous. There is another saying: Su Wen cooked mutton; Su Wensheng, eat vegetable soup. "
But for a time, Su Shi couldn't even afford mutton, so he could only eat sheep bones.
During the reign of Shao Shengyuan in Song Zhezong (1094), Su Shi was demoted to Huizhou for "ridiculing the first". This year10.2, he came to the south as the deputy envoy of Ningyuan Army. Originally, he thought Huizhou in eastern Guangdong was a wild place, but when he got off the bus, when he saw the beautiful scenery, he couldn't help but loudly praise "the seamounts are lush and healthy"!
Huizhou was called Yangzhou in the Tang Dynasty, renamed Zhou Xun in the Southern Han Dynasty and Huizhou in the Song Dynasty. This state is now Huiyang County, Guangdong Province, 300 miles away from Guangzhou, on the south bank of Dongjiang River. There is a flying goose ridge in the south of Huiyang, so it is also called "Goose City". Beautiful mountains and rivers, excellent scenery. Unfortunately, it was not developed at that time, and it was still a vulgar place. Suddenly, a famous figure came, which caused a sensation in the whole society.
"Once I went to the South China Sea, Huizhou's world was not small." As early as the Tang Dynasty, Huizhou was the "exile place of criminal officials", and the prime minister, Niu Sengru, Du Fu, Yi Shizhi Hungao, Gui Guan Observation Envoy Zheng Ya, Shaofu Cui Yuanshou and Zhongshu Sheren Cui Ling all lived in Huizhou successively. Huizhou people are famous for their enthusiasm and loyalty in Lingnan. Su Dongpo's first poem after he arrived in Huizhou also described this feature of Huizhou people. As soon as the ship landed, he saw that the dock was crowded with people who greeted him. He doesn't feel estranged from strangers at all. Su Dongpo was very happy and wrote a poem entitled "Arriving in Huizhou on October 2nd":
It seems that I have traveled in my dream. I am glad that the chickens and dogs know Xinfeng.
Officials and people are surprised by what they have done. Father and old man take care of each other to satisfy this man.
Su Wu is still Mobei, and Guanning thinks it's old Liaodong.
Every household in Lingnan is in spring, and guests will live in public places.
Su Dongpo was 59 years old when he was demoted to Huizhou, and he was at the lowest point of his career. But he found that Huizhou is actually a wonderful place: "The local food in Huizhou is not evil, and the officials and people are very kind." What makes him even more proud is that he invented the roast sheep spine. On one occasion, he wrote a letter to Su Zhe from Wan Li, only describing the beauty of mutton spines he cooked in Huizhou, just like a glutton who ate cold food, telling him the happiness of gulping them down. The book says:
Huizhou city is sparsely populated, but it still kills a sheep every day, and dare not compete with the government to buy it. At this time, it told the butcher to buy its spine ears. There is emblem meat between the bones, which is cooked thoroughly, but it will not be cooked until it is hot. In dyed wine, cook it with dilute salt. Picking all day, you get two baht between Ken and Mao, which makes you very happy, such as eating crabs and stinging, and you feel very full after eating for a few days. I stayed in the canteen for three years, and all I ate was poor tea and light rice. I have no teeth or bones. How do I know the smell? The script stays on this piece of paper. Although it is a play, it can be used. However, if you say this, the dog will be unhappy.
We can know from the letter that Huizhou was poor and backward at that time, and its business was backward. In other letters, he mentioned that he could not eat pork. Think about it, Dongpo meat invented by Su Dongpo! But the salary is already very meager, and the whole market only kills one sheep a day. He couldn't afford mutton, and the demoted people were afraid to compete with local officials to buy mutton, so they discussed with the butchers to save some sheep spines. But after all, he is Su Dongpo, optimistic and open-minded, seeking pleasure in suffering and finding the flavor of sheep spine. There is still some meat between the sheep bones.
Su Gong cooked the scorpion carefully, cooked it first, and fished it out while it was hot (if it was not fished out while it was hot, it would be difficult to dry it with water). After picking it, he gets a few pieces of meat every day, soaks some wine, smears a thin layer of wine and salt, and bakes it until it is slightly burnt. The shredded pork on the scorpion is crispy outside and tender inside, and tastes three-fold fragrant. It tastes like crab meat. Eat it once every few days, and it feels very nourishing. Dude, you've been eating public meals for three years, and there's too much meat to eat bones in one bite. Of course, you can't eat such a delicious taste. So I am writing to tell you this secret recipe, instead of making fun of you. It is delicious. Why don't you try? However, I have eaten all the meat, and the dogs in Huizhou who are waiting to eat meat and bones are a little unhappy.
Thankfully, Su Shi didn't take it to heart because of the poor food. However, the sentence "the dog to be fed is not pleasant to the ear" is really embarrassing to read. Be content with poverty and enjoy yourself. This is Su Dongpo, who is famous and talented all over the world.
It's been almost a thousand years, and scorpions have become popular. Why is it called yangxiezi? Maybe the whole sheep's spine is like a scorpion, and there is no test. The popular hot pot with water for sheep scorpion is definitely not the practice of Su Gong's roasting in those days. Can this practice be resumed?
At that time, Su Dongpo invented the delicious food of sheep scorpion. Although it is a last resort, the wisdom of living in a difficult situation can often make everything extraordinary. This is the difference between genius and mediocrity, and the essence of food is here.
This is the food culture.