As the saying goes, American food is the most important thing. Eating is the most basic survival requirement of human beings. With the progress of society, eating its connotation is not only the need of life, but also gradually develops into one of the contents of national cultural characteristics. Ldquo is in China; Eating culture, unique and rich, is loved by others in the world. At the same time, grain is related to the economic development level of planting, animal husbandry, processing industry and other departments, and to the degree of commercial circulation and market development. It is also influenced by local customs and habits, forming different styles of food culture.
The food culture in Song Dynasty was very developed, which was related to the economic development at that time. The basic socio-economic structure of Song Dynasty was based on planting. At that time, cash crops, animal husbandry and other industries developed rapidly, and commodity circulation and urban economy flourished. Menglianglu products list several names of various products, including grains, fruits and vegetables, animals, insects and fish. Only rich food can make the food culture flourish. At the same time, the catering culture in the Song Dynasty was developed, which was closely related to the blending of the catering culture between the North and the South. In any dynasty in China, the capital was an important place to carry various cultures. After the Song Dynasty crossed the south, northerners moved south and gathered in all directions, which greatly promoted the great blending of food culture. Dietary customs and cooking techniques in the north soon spread to the southeast. At that time, many restaurants in Hangzhou were in the capital of song dynasty, and the food culture in Jiangnan accelerated its integration with the north in the process of the political center moving south.
Including: Xiang, Bianjing opened a noodle restaurant in the south, served Sichuan rice and distributed tea to prepare for the exchanges between scholars in the south of the Yangtze River, which meant that it was inconvenient for them to eat in the north. Since crossing the south, every 2 years, the soil and water have become accustomed to it, and the diet is chaotic, and there is no distinction between the north and the south. At the same time, at that time, Hangzhou, Sichuan, Shandong, Hebei and other places had local flavor dishes and catering operations, and the traditional regional flavor was re-integrated, forming a new imperial city catering culture.
Elder Meng wrote in Menglianglu: The treasures from all over the world are owned by the market; The unique smell of Atlas can be found in the kitchen. I lamented the prosperity of Tokyo in the past. As the capital of the political center, the extravagant feasts of the court dignitaries, although shown in the official history books, are in line with etiquette; Happy, but the court diet and extravagant spending of money in the Song Dynasty are also amazing.
In his later years, Song Shenzong indulged in the feast of the deep palace and enjoyed himself. Often, the cost of a banquet tour was more than 1, yuan. Shi Zai, another banquet in Song Renzong, ten points and three points; Only 28 clams a product. At that time, a clam was worth 1, and Injong was 128,. By the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, under the influence of abundant thoughts, Song Huizong was pursuing luxury, enjoyment and extravagance in diet and life. According to historical records, in the second year of Zheng He, Song Huizong hosted a banquet for nine ministers, including Cai Jing, in Taiqing Building. At the banquet, mountains of delicacies and delicacies piled up, which made people stunned.
The emperor was extravagant in diet, and the bureaucratic scholar-officials in Song Dynasty were also fashionable in diet. Sima Guang once wrote in the Dream of China in Tokyo: Zong Guichen's home, the first house garden, is often poor in the world and extremely bright at one time. But it was deliberately caused, and there was no redrawing boundary. Luxury is the best, frugality is the best. The more tired, the better. In Song Zhenzong, Premier Lv Mengzheng likes to eat chicken soup every time, so that chicken feathers pile up into mountains. In the mid-Northern Song Dynasty, Lv Yijian, who served as prime minister for many years, had a rich family and lived in luxury. Even the expensive food in the court can get white fish, and his wife actually sent it in a basket.
In the past few years, according to the records of the theory of wealth and profit, one day Cai Jing called a meeting of his subordinates and stayed behind to hold a banquet. Crab steamed bread alone cost more than 13 yuan, and the rest is not counted. In the past, I invited guests to drink at home, and when I ordered the treasurer, I took the salted lobster sent by Jiangxi officials. The beadle brought in ten bottles of wine. It was only when everyone saw it that it was a rare and precious food at that time. Yellow sparrow roe, yes, I can't help but be surprised. Yellowbird is a bird with a small stomach. Its stomach is used to pickle salty soy sauce, so countless yellowbirds must be killed to make these ten bottles. At this point, Cai Jing asked collectors, and geometry? Treasury official replied: There are more than 8 bottles left! It is not uncommon for ordinary officials to have one bottle. There are hundreds of bottles in Cai Jing, and it is easy to understand that guests are amazed at it.
After the fall of Cai Jing, the imperial court began to raid the property. From his warehouse, if you check the number of bees, you will get 37 scales. There are three yellowbirds from the ground to the building, and everything else is called _ _. In order to enjoy the best food in the world, Cai Jing's family is equipped with a large number of chefs with meticulous division of labor. Even the person who makes steamed buns and cuts onions has a special person in charge. Not only Cai Jing, but also Wang Fu, Tong Guan, Liang Shicheng and so on, all have luxurious diets.
after moving to the south, the aristocratic ministers in the court did not restrain their food and drink life with the collapse of the Northern Song Dynasty government, but the extravagance became more and more intense. Taking Qin Gui as an example, Hu Quan wrote in Ji Wen Nian in Southeast China: Taitai only used one or two thousand yuan every time she returned to the banquet, but when she got home, she used hundreds of thousands instead. At that time, not only etiquette, but also ordinary officials followed suit. Hong Mai wrote in a question-and-answer session at the banquet: In the twenty-third year of Shaoxing, there was a wine official in Zhenjiang who was a fool, and there were no visitors every day. His diet was extremely delicate and shy. Although the same housekeeper is full of tricks and delays, they will put all their possessions, talk big, and strive to win with luxury. A sommelier can make ten excellent things, but he thinks the paint color is small and bad. He smashes them with an axe to make them more elegant, spits mutton, but chews juice and spits on me. He always does. Eating mutton, even chewing juice, is rare in luxury.
these people socialize in the officialdom and are generous. Although he is a small official, as long as Xi Chengfeng entertains guests, the table is full of famous wines and dishes. Each banquet costs 2 thousand yuan. If the superior comes, the guests will make great sacrifices, and the small ones will cut down the sheep and stab the tapir to death; It is a court case; Known as the supply of tea and rice; So that I knelt in the wine and ate until it was dark and ate until dawn. Full of happiness.
correspondingly, ordinary farmers in the song dynasty had a very difficult daily diet, and they often went to the next meal. Sima Guang said: Fortunately, the bumper harvest, the dispute between public and private debts, the valley has not left, and the silks have not been disembarked. Silkworm girl, eating chaff is not enough, wearing brown is not enough. In the sixth year of Yuan You, Su Dongpo pointed out in his report to the imperial court: This autumn, the states of Shandong, Hao and Shou are all hungry. I saw farmers eating elm bark and cooking with bran and purslane. Wang Yan, an official in the Southern Song Dynasty, wrote in the year of Yi Jianzhi: People in the fields eat chaff, which is sincere and pitiful. Inflammation, in the mountains the year before last, from October to February last year, people living in the mountains dug fern roots to eat; In Linxiang county, it is also a flood, and people by the river dig big fern roots to eat.
Wang Yan said that eating fern root was actually recorded in Shuangxi Ji Year in Hong Mai. Thousands of people went up the mountain to dig fern roots, dug them out and mashed them into powder, clarified them with water and cooked them. Hong Mai sighed, paradise creatures are of great benefit to the world! Wild vegetables, bark, fern root, etc. It is not easy to swallow, so it must be taken with water. Among them, many farms
after the demise of the Tang Dynasty, the local system was broken and the urban economy flourished. Rong Zhai's essays describe the urban food culture in Song Dynasty. However, despite the glamorous appearance, the gap between the rich and the poor is growing. Nowadays, many people are praising the diversity of China's diet. However, when the rich look at the miserable farmers living in the Song Dynasty, we can see that there is no glory behind this diversity, because it hides the blood and tears of China farmers who have had nothing to eat for thousands of years!
Why?