Nowadays, dry noodle products in the shape of thin slices are generally called cakes. However, in the Song Dynasty, as "Jing Kang Su Su Miscellaneous Notes" pointed out: "Anyone who uses noodles as a utensil is called a cake; therefore, those who eat by fire are called sesame cakes; Those who drink water are called soup cakes; Those who eat in cages are called steamed cakes. " Sesame cake is still called. They are also called big cakes in the south, and they were called falling cakes or Hu cakes in ancient times. Soup cakes were also called boiled cakes at that time, and the Song Dynasty was in the process of transforming into noodles, which were also called Suobing or Wei Jia. Before the world appeared, noodles were used to refer to noodle soup.
Xuancheng) The rebels are preparing to cooperate with the outside world on 25th. A steamed cake vendor said: "A 25-mile distance is average." On the surface, it is said that "a person selling 25 yuan has white flour inside and outside", but it is actually a code word to remind the public to avoid chaos. This cry proves that steamed cakes and sesame cakes are just different names for solid steamed bread. The oral book Song Sigong made a scene to ban the soul Zhang describes the justice of Song Sigong.
Looking at the ferry, I couldn't wait on the other side. Hungry, I sat on the ground, put a soft bag in front of him, unpacked the barbecue, broke a steamed cake, dipped four or five pieces of fat barbecue with more salt and pepper, rolled it into a roll and chewed it for two times.
Song Sigong ate steamed cakes, which were obviously solid and stuffing-free, and the eating method was similar to that of meat buns in the north now. Sesame cakes are also called cage cakes because they are steamed in cages. In Wu Dalang, Song Wu also used the fan cage as the unit to calculate the baked wheat cake.
Pan Jinlian in Guo Chuan said that at the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, a friend in Guo Tai came to "cut leeks to make cakes" in the rain all night. This story shows that this kind of pasta existed in the Han and Wei Dynasties, and it was stuffed. In the Tang Dynasty, Jia said in his Note that "eating" means "taking wine as a cake, and making plastic cakes today". In Song Dynasty, Huang Tingjian pointed out in Fu Weng Miscellanies that "the cake is today's cooking cake", indicating that cooking cakes were fermented at that time. In fact, the baked wheat cake sold in Wu Dalang is now steamed bread. Compared with steamed bread, it has stuffing, while sesame seed cake is solid and has no stuffing. This can also be proved from the story described in "Study on Old Learning".
Although Wang Yi, a poet in the Song Dynasty, said in "The Record of Swallow Wings": "Nowadays, anyone who has fermented crumbs, whether with or without stuffing, is called steamed bread", but at that time, it was still customary to call those without stuffing baked cakes and those with stuffing steamed buns. There are many kinds of steamed bread in Song Dynasty. As far as fillings are concerned, there are sugar steamed buns, fake steamed buns, mutton steamed buns, bamboo shoots steamed buns, fish steamed buns, crab yellow steamed buns, crab meat steamed buns, sugar steamed buns and spicy steamed buns. According to Shang Yao Lu, on the day of the third and eighth classes, the canteens in imperial academy and imperial academy usually add meals, with baked wheat cakes in spring and autumn, cold salad in summer and steamed bread in winter. Cold salad is cold noodles, but it is cold cake. Aside from this, Shandong's food list puts cakes cooked in spring and autumn and steamed bread cooked in winter, which shows that there are obvious differences between them. Taixue steamed bread is well known, and students often pass it on to their relatives and friends to taste it in advance. Later, even the market in Lin 'an, the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, put up the signboard of Taixue Steamed Bread. York has a poem devoted to steamed bread: after several years of research, scholars have been satisfied with Confucianism, and the rest of their skills are still passed on to bamboo shoots and ferns.
Son Peng Sheng has a red wisp of meat, and the general has a white lotus skin iron bar.
Among them, white lotus skin refers to steamed bread skin, while red wisp of meat obviously refers to steamed bread stuffing. In the Water Margin, there is also a strict distinction between the two. Wu Dalang is called sesame seed cake, and Sun Erniang is called steamed bread. Song Wu said that her family's "steamed bread stuffing has a few hairs, just like human urine."
Compared with steamed bread, it has stuffing, while sesame seed cake is solid and has no stuffing. This can also be proved from the story described in "Study on Old Learning". The story says that in the Southern Song Dynasty, a woman accompanied by her husband went to Dongyang County and accused a rich boy of raping her and biting her nipples. County magistrate Langmou summoned the rich man, but he denied it. The county magistrate ordered people to bring three sesame cakes and let the three of them bite one each, but they were not allowed to bite them off. And compare it with the scar on the woman's nipple. It turned out to be her husband's tooth marks. Obviously, only the solid steamed bread without stuffing can leave clear tooth marks after biting halfway. About this difference between baked wheat cake and steamed bread, Water Margin is also unambiguous. When describing Song Wu's arrival at the Crossslope Hotel, he said:
The woman giggled, walked into the room, went to the stove and took a cage of steamed bread and put it on the table. Two workers picked it up and ate it. Song Wu took one, opened it and shouted, "Restaurant, is this steamed bread human flesh?"? Is it dog meat? "
In the novel, Wu Dalang's sesame seed cake is called sesame seed cake, while Shizipo Heidian's human flesh bun is called steamed bun, which reflects the customary name in the Song Dynasty.
Compared with making cakes, steamed bread may be more valuable, so there is a story in Summer Tale: a poor scholar doesn't know what steamed bread is, but he has no plan. One day, when I saw a long line of food stalls above the mall, I suddenly fell to the ground. Shocked, the stall owner replied, "I'm afraid of steamed bread." The stall owner thought it was outrageous, so he put more than 100 steamed buns and put the scholar in. The stall owner just peeked through the cracks in the wall and saw that the scholar put a lot of buns "by hand", and the people who ate accounted for more than half.
Of course, I also ate steamed buns. On the day when Song Zhenzong was born in Renzong, "the courtiers in the palace ate steamed buns, all of which were golden beads", which shows that the palace and the powerful family have regarded them as delicious food. According to "What? Record "records that a scholar sold a concubine who claimed to work in a steamed bun room in Cai Jing Taishifu. One day, she was asked to make steamed buns, and she replied that she couldn't make them. She asked her, "Since you are a cook, why can't you make buns?" I am responsible for taking care of shredded onion. This story may show that steamed buns are more exquisite than steamed buns, and the difference between them lies in their shape and connotation. Making cakes became the favorite of many poets in the Song Dynasty. Huang Tingjian said in a letter to comfort his sick friend: "Patients can eat if they want to wake up gradually. Home-cooked cakes are good, I wonder if they are comparable? "
In the Song Dynasty, making cakes was the main food for people. According to "Dream in Tokyo", when Tomb-Sweeping Day travels, Kaifeng citizens will bring jujube porridge, baked wheat cakes and duck eggs, which is called "the land outside the door". According to Meng Liang Lu, in the Southern Song Dynasty, Lin 'an not only sold snacks in the afternoon market, such as sugar porridge, sesame cake, baked steamed bread, sesame cake, spicy vegetable cake and spring cake, but also cooked cakes in the street. The 53rd chapter of Water Margin describes jy's trick on Li Kui, and the baked wheat cake has also become a prop:
Li Kui jy's legs can be supported there, but it seems that someone is pushing them similarly below. He just walked away without touching the ground. When you see a fair-weather restaurant, you can't go in to buy food. Manager Dai came from behind and shouted, "Li Ge, why don't you buy some snacks?" Li Kui jy replied, "Brother, help me. I'll kill an iron cow when I'm hungry! " Dai zhong pulled out some kitchen cakes from his arms to eat. Li Kui jy cried, "I can't stay to buy food. You and I can satisfy our hunger. " Mr. Dai said, "Brother, come up and eat with you." Li Kui jy stretched out his hand, only ten feet away, but he couldn't pick it up.
Benxinzhai Vegetable Cookbook records a kind of sesame seed cake called Jade Brick, which is made by "cutting the sesame seed cake into squares and curing it with pepper", and there is a compliment: "Cut it round, cut it into square bricks, use fresh pepper and sprinkle salt thinly". From this point of view, there are different ways to make cakes and eat them. In the 56th chapter of The Water Margin, it is said that the Golden Gun will have Xu Ning's breakfast, and a baked meat pie was arranged for the servant girl. Perhaps this kind of meat biscuit is similar to the later Chinese hamburger in Shaanxi.
Making cakes became the favorite of many poets in the Song Dynasty. Huang Tingjian said in a letter to comfort his sick friend: "Patients can eat if they want to wake up gradually. Home-cooked cakes are good, I wonder if they are comparable? " However, in another letter to a friend, there was an autumn wind: "I'm going to make a cake tomorrow, but I was lucky enough to send three pounds", which showed his love for making cakes. The famous poet Yang Wanli has a poem called Eating Steamed Cake. The first four sentences say: He Jia's cage cake must pass, and Xiao Jia's sesame cake must be broken four times.
I can't be hungry, just swallow one.
In the great turning point of the collapse of the Northern Song Dynasty and the reconstruction of the Southern Song Dynasty, cooking cakes is closely related to a political history. It is said that before Song Gaozong acceded to the throne, the marshal went north from Xiangzhou with his military forces and got lost on the way. Fortunately, Wang Boyan got him mutton soup and baked wheat cakes, and only in this way did he get through the difficulties. When Dunant started, he also "fried meat to make cakes every day"; Soon, in order to avoid the pursuit of 8 Jin Army, he went into exile by boat in Zhang 'an Town, Linhai County. In a hurry, he found only five baked wheat cakes in the local Xiangfu Temple. Later, Emperor Gaozong claimed that he only ate noodles, biscuits and fried meat in the morning and evening, which did not seem to be nonsense. Considering that the emperor loves to make cakes, when Zhang Jun entertained the emperor at home, he gave him a baked cake and a non-baked cake at a point called Chacai. Non-scones should be ordinary cooking cakes, and scones are probably baked steamed bread. However, due to the existence of Emperor Gaozong, Zhang Junguang was a piece of cake for Emperor Gaozong's royal guards. He spent 20,000 yuan.
Compared with Emperor Gaozong, although he ate the same cooking cake, his father Song Huizong was very worried. After the change of Jingkang, he became a prisoner. When he was escorted to Zhuozhou by Jin Jun, he asked the accompanying old minister to exchange two taels of silver for some food. People who sell food know that this is Hui Zong, "making progress in making cakes and lotus root vegetables", and don't accept money as a reward for people. Maybe I don't know: Chen, a direct minister who was demoted to the south, once wrote a book to answer his friends in the capital, but he still cared and said, "What's the matter?" It snows well this year, and the biscuits will be big next year. " It is really commendable that Chen cares that good snow can bring big cakes to the people, but he is indifferent to his exile. Huizong has such a direct minister, he can't use it, but he trusts six thieves. What happened later is his own making.
Bread is a necessity of life. In the Song Dynasty, cooking cakes was directly related to the lives of ordinary people. At the end of Shaoxing in the Southern Song Dynasty, due to the renewed war in Jin and Song Dynasties, prices soared. "A cook's cake is worth tens of dollars", while the frontline soldiers worked hard and only got a dozen taels of money. No wonder they threw their tips on the ground and said angrily, "Life is not worth a chef's cake!" " . According to Berberis Collection, in the mid-Southern Song Dynasty, there was a spontaneous organization similar to the guild in the cooking cake industry in Jiankang Prefecture (now Nanjing, Jiangsu Province), which was called "Hangyuan" at that time. If the seller of baked wheat cakes is new here and has no business place and funds, then the whole city "needs to sell baked wheat cakes, borrow markets, give cookers and borrow cloth", and there is "no jealousy" between them. Therefore, this foreign businessman who sells baked wheat cakes has a place to support his family. After seeing this phenomenon, Liu Zai praised "this custom is very cute".
During the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, making cakes was still very popular among the people. Shortly after Zhu Yuanzhang started fighting, Guo Zixing suspected him and put him in solitary confinement. He is not allowed to be given food. "Ming Shi" said that Ma Huanghou "got pregnant by stealing sesame seeds cake", and the freshly steamed sesame seeds cake burned her chest. After entering the Ming Dynasty, the name of baked wheat cake gradually faded out of common spoken language, and the original solid baked wheat cake was directly called steamed bread.