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With so many emperors and generals, why did Gan Long and Cixi become the most extensive spokesmen of folk snacks?
Gan Long eighteen sticks? ? When I saw the name of this dish, my face was covered with black question marks. Later, I learned from a certain voice that this dish is made of long beans. In fact, many street snacks and local famous places almost always see the figures of Emperor Qianlong and Empress Dowager Cixi. There are too many delicious dishes, such as Aozao noodles, Apo tea, Xianghe meat pie, Luoding rice rolls, doornail meat pie, chestnut noodles and Pingyao bowl. Readers can also leave their hometown's specialty imperial snacks. )

Above _ Manchu Dietary Customs and Imperial Meals in the Qing Palace

What is the snack marketing? Routine? The propaganda routine of folk snacks is often: when Emperor Qianlong traveled incognito to the south or visited Jiangnan six times, he was hungry and lost his appetite. So-and-so offered it or where he got it, and his appetite was praised after eating/drinking it; When Eight-Nation Alliance went to Beijing, Cixi fled to the west, naked and hungry, and occasionally got folk food. After eating it, she was full of praise After returning to the palace, she recruited the cook into the palace. This routine seems to be found in all celebrity-related snack introductions, but why do so many emperors and princes become the most extensive spokespersons for folk snacks?

The most direct reason is that the Qing Dynasty is the closest feudal dynasty to modern society, and there are relatively many folk stories and legends. In addition, Qianlong and Cixi undoubtedly belong to the C position of men and women in history of qing dynasty, plus Emperor Qianlong went to Jiangnan six times; Cixi fled westward through Hebei, Shanxi and Shaanxi, and returned through Henan, so their footprints were richer than those of other emperors, so snacks from all over the world also wanted to use them? Climb the dragon and attach the phoenix? Stories about food can increase their popularity, but some food stories are far-fetched. (Humble desire for survival: All snacks involved in this article are only used for historical comparison, and there is no malicious slander. )

Above _ The cartoon of Cixi fleeing to the west painted by the West

Gan Long: No, I didn't eat Luoding rice rolls. According to legend, when Emperor Gan Long visited the south of the Yangtze River, he was bewitched by Ji Xiaolan, the food minister, and went to Luoding to eat Dragon Shrines. When eating the dragon niche, Gan Long was full of praise and said: This is not Ciba, it is a bit like pig intestines. It is better to call it rice rolls, hence the name Luoding rice rolls.

But in fact, Emperor Qianlong has never been to Luoding House in Guangdong Province. The farthest place under the Qianlong River is Jiangsu and Zhejiang, so he has never set foot in Luoding House. How can he go to Luoding to eat rice rolls? Besides, it is also confusing to be bewitched by the gourmet Ji Xiaolan, because in the historical materials of the Qing Dynasty, Ji Xiaolan was a famous glutton who only ate meat instead of rice and flour. How can he eat his rice rolls? Vegetarian? Food.

According to the record of "Jiangnan Festival as usual" during Qianlong's thirty-year southern tour, during the southern tour, Emperor Qianlong still ate the food cooked by the accompanying chefs: stewed bird's nest with rock sugar, fried chicken hotpot, shredded duck with bird's nest, a piece of mutton, a plate of steamed duck, a spoon red cake and the first piece of bamboo steamed bun.

Above _ Emperor Qianlong's Southern Tour

As for the glutinous rice duck, evergreen stew, shredded chicken with bird's nest, green bamboo shoots and bad chicken presented by Suzhou Weaving House at that time, who gave it and who made it are indicated at the back of the menu. Even the dishes made by Emperor Qianlong's own imperial tea canteen will be marked with the names of royal chefs such as Zhang Dongguan, Zhang Cheng and Song Yuan.

According to the twenty-fourth volume of Shouji Zhai Ji by Zhen Wu, Governor of Yunnan and Guizhou during the reign of Jia Dao,? The restaurant prepares royal meals, whose goods and things are cooked by whom, and the draft is drawn up every day and submitted to the Minister of the Interior for drawing. Therefore, if the cooking is not suitable, the person who takes care of it is blameless and sincere. .

In order to ensure the safety of the emperor's diet, the source of food and the chef have special records, and the food provided by local officials also has clear records. At the same time, most of the food delivered was in line with the emperor's taste. If we rashly provide some local snacks, if the emperor doesn't like it, it will be the best result. If something happens to the dragon, I'm afraid no one can bear it.

Above _ Eight-Nation Alliance goes to Beijing.

Above _ 190 1 June, the notice posted in Eight-Nation Alliance lists the provisions of article 14 that restrict China people's activities in the occupied areas.

Cixi: No, I haven't eaten it. What did Cixi praise? Pingyao bowl holder? This is just a good wish of the merchants. This snack and the story of Cixi are probably like this: 1900, when Eight-Nation Alliance invaded Beijing, Empress Dowager Cixi fled westward through Pingyao, hungry, and ate Pingyao food, which was full of praise and rewarded on the spot, making Pingyao food famous in Beijing.

But the question is, according to when did Empress Dowager Cixi escape to the West? The grain table in front of the road? According to the record of Huailai county magistrate (logistics director) Wu Yong in "A Random Talk on Gengzi's Western Expedition". Cixi's route to escape from Huailai County is Huailai? Xuanhua? Datong? Yangqu, then from north to south to Taiyuan. Pingyao is in the south of Taiyuan, so Cixi won't pass Pingyao on her way to Taiyuan. She will eat a bowl in Pingyao. How can she be shocked in the capital? There is something strange about this brain circuit.

Above _ Empress Dowager Cixi fled to the west.

Of course, Cixi then fled from Taiyuan to xi 'an, which may pass Pingyao, but these folks will definitely not eat hungry, right? Coarse grains? Time arrived in Huailai County, because they had just escaped from the capital. Cixi and Guangxu ate mung bean porridge and boiled eggs, but after arriving in Taiyuan, the capital of Shanxi Province, Shanxi Governor Yuxian tried his best to flatter the two palaces in order to save his life. Even when Emperor Jiaqing was preparing to visit Wutai Mountain, the support and furnishings of the royal family were moved out of the warehouse, showing a royal atmosphere in the diet and accommodation of the two palaces.

Even Rong Er, Cixi's personal maid-in-waiting, said that since Cixi came to Taiyuan, she had never picked cowpeas and cooked them in the wild as she had just left the palace. Because they arrived in Taiyuan just after the Mid-Autumn Festival, they all started making ivory? Eight crabs? Eat crabs. When leaving Taiyuan, Yuxian prepared agate for Cixi, and the water bowl was replaced with cloisonne. Even the tea leaves are sealed with bamboo tubes and tied with Huanglingzi's southern tribute tea. What about the bowl? Slight cold? Our food can't enter Galeries Lafayette's eyes at this time.

Above _ Emperor Jiaqing (1760? 1820)

Real royal food in Qing Dynasty. So what did the emperors of the Qing Dynasty mainly eat in their daily lives? According to the internal affairs file and? Palace powder? According to the records, pork was the most used in the Qing Palace, followed by mutton, duck, cake and milk tea (ennnnm really loved milk tea). Qianlong preferred bird's nest, while Cixi did not eat mutton. As far as taste is concerned, what is the biggest feature of food in the early Qing Dynasty? Heavy salt and lust? With the continuous integration with China culture and the entry of Jiangsu and Zhejiang foods into the court, the taste of Manchu gradually faded, but the taste was still fatty.

Especially pork, compared with other foods, pork played an important role in the Qing Dynasty. First of all, a large number of pigs will be used in the sacrifice of Kunning Palace. The palace of earthly tranquility was the residence of the empress in the Ming dynasty, but in the Qing dynasty it became a place for offering sacrifices to gods and cooking meat? Central kitchen? . The daily sacrifices in Kunning Palace are divided into morning sacrifices and evening sacrifices. Every time, two healthy black pigs are cooked in two cauldrons in the palace to worship the gods. However, since four pigs have to be cooked every day, records show that since Yongzheng, the pork in Kunning Palace has been sold by eunuchs for extra money.

Above _ There is a large-capacity curtain on the partition door in the west corridor of Kunning Palace, and there is a water pump next to the door.

On the second day of New Year's Day and during the major festivals in spring and autumn, the emperor personally went to Kunning Palace to make sacrifices, and led the princes, princes, ministers and others to share the sacrifices? Meat? . Assigned to the royal sacrifice? Meat? This is a great honor for the minister, but it is an ancient custom of Manchu: you can't leave the place of worship or spend the night. Therefore, ministers must eat meat in front of the emperor, and these tasteless pork without seasoning also make ministers very headache. Therefore, rumors such as soy sauce paper wiping a knife were born, and there is even a story called? White cook the meat? Beijing famous dishes.

If a lot of pork is needed to sacrifice to the gods, the amount of pork consumed by the harem every day will be even greater. According to the current rules of the palace? According to Gong Fen, Empress Dowager Cixi uses 50 Jin of pigs every day, while Empress Dowager uses 16 Jin of pork and Imperial concubine uses 12 Jin of pork. The rest decrease in turn, and the lowest grade promises to give 12 two pork every day.

Judging from the daily consumption of pork by Empress Dowager Cixi, Empress Dowager Cixi and Imperial concubine, the three of them consume 28,470 Jin of pork every year. Therefore, in the food baskets of Qianlong and Cixi, there are neither the daily humps and the big red flowers, nor the simple and casual folk snacks, but the fishing and hunting diet with strong national characteristics, and also support the strict dining system.

Above _ Yu Deling (1886 ~ 1944), pen name Princess Deling.

What does Empress Dowager Cixi like to eat? Keep it secret! Take Cixi as an example. De Ling accompanied Cixi to visit Shengjing. Because she confronted each other day and night on the train, she wrote in Two Years of Qing Palace that the old lady liked ducks very much, especially duck skins. But in fact, for the sake of safety, Empress Dowager Cixi never easily tells anyone what she likes to eat, nor does she allow anyone to inquire about what she likes to eat. ? Because I don't want you to know, I don't want you to know. If someone talks nonsense about what food and snacks the old lady likes, give him a small heart. .

Meanwhile, when eating, will Cixi never experience it? Eat like a pig What does it feel like? Because there will be four executives standing next to her when she eats? Family law? Eunuch. When Empress Dowager Cixi prepares to eat the third spoon of the same dish, the eunuch in charge will shout? Withdraw? This dish can't appear on Galeries Lafayette's table for half a month from now.

What if someone wants to do it? Lick the dog? , deliberately let the master eat more, there will be other eunuchs soon, give him a few? Leather fence? I just wear leather gloves and my mouth is wide open. According to Pu Jia of Bandu when Pu Yi went to school, the diet system in Qing Dynasty was particular? Take a look, two eyes and three eyes? These dazzling dishes are not all for eating, but are more called. Look at the food? .

Above _ Photo of Cixi Palace

Contrary to the propaganda of most snacks, many snacks related to the royal family are not only imported from the people, but also spread from the palace. Like the famous? Imitation food? The Manchu Bobo and White cook the meat, represented by Saqima mentioned above, are all dishes and snacks flowing out of the palace.

Once, the cooking skills of the Royal Tea Restaurant were very mysterious. Even if Emperor Kangxi gave the minister Xu Babao tofu, Xu still had to pay 1000 taels of silver to the Imperial Restaurant. Intellectual property fees? . However, after entering the Republic of China, the expenses of the royal families in Xun and Qing dynasties decreased, and the royal chefs were largely dismissed. Many foods with court characteristics began to enter the people and spread. The reason why China's specialty snacks in the north and south of the Yangtze River are tirelessly linked with the imperial court is just to earn more money.

As Zhao satirized in the essay "The Restaurant of Empress Dowager Cixi", anyone who talks about contemporary people with the name of the imperial court and Qianlong and Cixi can fly to the branches and become a phoenix. But for ordinary diners, as long as they are not deliberately faked and genuine, even if the stories of dishes and snacks are bizarre and excessive, diners who have tasted delicious food can laugh it off.

Text: Wei Siwei

References:

1 "Jiangnan Festival as usual"

2 "Current Rules of the Forbidden City"

3 "Southern Tour Festival" edited by Jin et al.

4 Kate Zhen in Shou Ji Zhai Cong Lu.

5' Geng Zi Xi Shou Cong Tan' Yong

6 "Talk about Maids" Jin Yi Shen Yiling

7 "Xiao Ting Zalu" Qing Zhao Lian.

8 "Listening to the Rain" Qing Fogg

9 Narrative of Qing Palace edited by Zhang Naiwei.

10 "Palace Drinking" Meng Fanzhi

1 1 The Literature and History Research Committee of China People's Political Consultative Conference compiled "Experiences of Court Life in the Late Qing Dynasty".

The text was created by the team of History University Hall, and the pictures originated from the Internet and belonged to the original author.