BBC UK intern Wang Kai

Professor Hu Side’s new book explores the connection between food culture and Chinese society and politics.

Roel Sterckx, the Needham Chair Professor of Sinology at the University of Cambridge, points out in his new book "Food, Sacrifice, and Sagehood in Early China" published this week that China's food culture contains ways of survival. . He revealed the "hidden recipe" to BBC News.

Professor Hu Side believes that as early as more than 2,000 years ago, culinary art provided many key concepts and metaphors for Chinese philosophy and political thought, and the symbols carried in these food cultures Its significance still affects Chinese society.

Talking about how he first connected diet with political philosophy, he said: As a historian of ancient China, through studying historical documents for many years, I found that people were thinking about the emperors, sages and politicians of the past dynasties. In the descriptions, cooking metaphors are often cited, and many of the vivid narratives are derived from food culture, which makes me curious. ?

Studying more than 800 years of written records from the sixth century AD, he explores the importance of China's rich culinary culture to ancient and contemporary society, politics and culture.

? The most delicious soup?

According to Professor Hu Side's research, many ministers, counselors and advisers who advised the monarchs of China were chefs or butchers.

He said: "Professions such as chefs, butchers, and waiters crystallize some of the talents necessary to shape leadership." For example, in order not to let any one flavor be too strong and overwhelm another, all cooking spices should be put in the same proportion, which exactly reflects what we often call harmony, justice and equality. In addition, equal amounts of cutting when cutting meat and proper distribution when serving vegetables also express the concept of order and regulation. ?

Yi Yin, the founding minister of the Shang Dynasty, was the first virtuous assistant in Chinese history since recorded history. He was originally an imperial chef with superb cooking skills, but for a while, the rice he cooked for King Tang of Shang was always too bland or too salty.

When asked about this, he took the opportunity to explain his views on governing the country: "The cooking should be neither too salty nor too bland, and the ingredients must be mixed well." Governing a country is like cooking. You can neither rush nor slack off. Only when it is just right can things be done well. ?Since then he has been promoted and reused.

Professor Hu Side took Yi Yin as an example and told how he went from a generation of famous chefs to a wise prime minister, and how he used his cooking skills to inspire King Tang of Shang to rule.

The earliest document in the history of Chinese cooking, "Lu's Spring and Autumn Annals: Original Flavor Chapter" records the story of Yi Yin talking about soup with "Zhiwei". Such things also happened in the Qing and Han Dynasties.

At the same time, Professor Hu Side also believes:? Know when, where and how to eat appropriately, toast at the appropriate time, invite others to the banquet in an appropriate way, and treat others thoughtfully. Greeting guests at banquets, etc. are all qualities that make a good king. ?

Cambridge High Table vs. Chinese Dinner

Unlike many Westerners, Professor Hu Side understands the philosophy of the Chinese Dinner Table very well. The high table dinner is compared to the state banquet in the ancient Chinese palace.

He said: "For many formal dinners or banquets, the focus is not on eating or consumption itself, but on interacting, understanding each other, exchanging opinions or introducing each other." ?

?In China, whether in ancient or modern times, dinner parties have a certain political dimension. For example, the arrangement of seats on the dining table should reflect the status of the guests; when picking up dishes, the order of precedence should also be followed; whether toasting or returning a toast, the rank of the guests must be followed; in addition, the tableware used by VIPs and ordinary guests The vessels will also be different. ?

?At the same time, banquets are also a good opportunity for emperors to test their ministers. Many emperors would entertain political enemies as a conspiracy to weaken their power or eliminate them. ?

Professor Hu said that the banquet in ancient China was also a social place. People exchanged poems, articles and music scores with each other after meals. He said with a smile: "The banquets in ancient China were very sumptuous and luxurious. I hope to have the opportunity to attend one!" ?

The Chinese dinner party reminded the British professor of the formal high-table dinner at Cambridge University. He thought it was very similar to the Chinese banquet: "In contemporary society, if you want to communicate with others, , the best way is usually to invite them to dinner. At the dinner table, etiquette is very important. How to behave appropriately at a banquet represents a person's cultivation. Taking students to such formal dinners is also a form of education in itself. ?

Imperial Recipes

In this new book, Professor Hu Side tells how ancient Chinese monarchs and politicians adjusted their diets due to changes in facts and circumstances.

For example, in times of famine, they would reduce the number of meals per meal accordingly; if the country suffered from floods or droughts, they would switch to a vegetarian diet to pray for blessings.

"Eat without talking and sleep without talking" is an ancient saying that is well-known in China. Professor Hu was left with Professor Hu's food philosophy of "Eating without getting tired of fine food", simple meals and eating only when full deep impression.

He said: "I also like simple meals, because simple meals itself embodies the concept of Chinese sages, and not overeating also embodies the concept of moderation." ?

?In addition, China's great thinker Confucius is a typical example of adjusting his dietary structure according to the political environment. He knows how to control drinking on important official occasions. Although he often had to attend various banquets in the court, Confucius never let himself get drunk. ?

Professor Hu Side also believes that the nutrients absorbed from food will affect a person's moral character.

He said, "There are many records in medical history books that the unborn fetus will be affected by the mother's eating habits." Therefore, concubines who are pregnant with the emperor's descendants are not allowed to eat foods that have a negative impact on the spiritual growth of the fetus. This is the ‘prenatal education’ that the Chinese are also talking about now. ?

Stinky Tofu and Qin Shihuang

Professor Hu Side is not only committed to studying the history, science and civilization of ancient China, but also travels all over the country and tastes delicious food from all over the country in his spare time.

He said: I love Chinese food very much, and sometimes I try to cook a few Chinese dishes myself, but I don’t dare to compare with those famous chefs in the past! One of my favorite Chinese dishes is a very simple home-cooked dish - tofu. From fried tofu, tofu soup to stinky tofu, I particularly like to eat them all. When I was a student, I often ate it in Taiwan. ?

In addition, white water is also one of Professor Hu’s favorites. He explains: ?If you read the Taoist classics, you will find that they considered plain water to be the most important drink. Because, although white water itself is colorless and odorless, you can mix it with any other ingredients. This is a very interesting philosophical truth, that is, the simplest is the most fundamental. ?

During the twenty years he has lived in the UK, he is very happy to see how popular Chinese food is.

Finally, when talking about the Chinese emperor he admires the most, Professor Hu Side said: "Judging from a specific time span and personal ability, there is no doubt that it is China's first emperor-Qin Shihuang." In just a few decades of rule, his achievements were impressive.

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