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Cai Lan's food articles
Cai Lan, a famous writer and gourmet, is also known as the four great talents in Hong Kong with Jin Yong, Ni Kuang and Huang Jingsheng. Many of his articles are about food. The following are the Cai Lan food articles I compiled for you. I hope you like them.

Cai Lan Cuisine 1: Eat raw fish when studying abroad.

When I went to Japan to study, I worked part-time. When I was poor, I had three meals and nine meals every three days. They are all the same salted fish, so I eat a lot when I have money.

Sushi is the most expensive. At first, I only chose dark red Maguro. Hong Kong people still look down on it, but the "real tuna Hongmalang" caught in the Sea of Japan is much more delicious than the tuna belly toro shipped from India or Spain in recent years. Sometimes, marinating a bell with soy sauce, slicing it and chatting with Japanese sashimi are all high-end delicacies. If you say you admire Maguro, they will be in awe.

Actually, TORO is so greasy that it is not as delicious as "SHIMA AJI". This kind of fish is cheap and delicious, but few people know how to eat it.

When Japanese eat fish, they should cut it neatly and beautifully and throw away the most beautiful fish paste on their bellies. I told my master to scrape off the layer of Toro ointment and burn it with a musket. It's delicious.

Bonito KATSUO can also be eaten raw, but the skin and stomach must be burned. Have you ever seen people in China live like this? It tastes a little scary, because there are parasites in the skin and stomach of bonito, especially in the stomach. When the parasite grows up, it becomes a yellow sore, so it is impossible not to burn. After the bonito is dried, it is as hard as wood, which is commonly known as wooden fish. The shredded wood fish can be used to make soup or put on tofu, and it seems to move when it is sprinkled with soy sauce.

Eating raw fish has become a part of Hong Kong people's life. I'm familiar with it, so I won't go into details about other fish. Let's talk about some strange things I tasted when I was studying abroad.

In Hokkaido, there is a kind of fish called "octagonal white fish". The fish body is really octagonal with eight prominent scales. If I didn't see it, I wouldn't believe it. It becomes sashimi after peeling. Although the meat is not much, it is very sweet.

There is a stone fish named Wukong in Hokkaido, which sticks to rocks all its life, motionless, not swimming, and its bones degenerate, leaving only cartilage. Chop it to make noodles and black bean soup. It tastes good.

There is an ugly OKOSE called "Tiger Fish". It is said that hunters always take this fish with them when they go up the mountain, because there are monsters in the mountain, and the mountain god named Ugly Girl will take out dried tiger fish when she meets her. When I found someone uglier than myself, I was overjoyed and asked the hunter not to eat him. In real life, cutting tiger fish into sashimi has a faint fragrance and is very delicious.

Speaking of ugliness, the stone fish "Anke" is also powerful enough. When I first arrived in Japan, I hung one with an iron hook outside the pavilion in Shinjuku, half a person's height. Because it is full of cartilage, after leaving the water, the weight of the meat will crush the gallbladder and the whole fish will be thrown away. It is divided into seven parts. First, the liver can be eaten raw or cooked. Second, shark fin. Third, the ovary. Fourth, willow meat (including cheeks). Fifth, the stomach. Six, gills. Seven, the skin. Cook all the parts in one pot. This pot is called "An Guo Guo".

Mambo is called "sun fish". In English, it is as round as the sun. There are two big wings at the tail, with thick skin and little meat. Sunfish's sashimi is white and has a unique taste. It's used to eating and feels good. You can also cook it with noodles and soak the skin in vinegar.

Back to the normal form of fish, salmon is called "salmon" in Japanese and is divided into white salmon, red salmon and black salmon. Salmon can still be seen swimming from the sea to the river to lay eggs, but at this time it has been deformed, its jaw is upturned, and it is terrible. No one dares to eat except the grizzly bear.

The Japanese have long known that salmon has many parasites and will never be eaten raw. Most of them are salted, sliced, burned or boiled, which was my staple food when I was poor. I eat salmon IKURA as soon as I get paid. It's fresh and never salty. The world is delicious. However, it is rare to taste sperm. I only ate the "Murakami Banquet" in Niigata Prefecture once, including salmon head cartilage, called "ice head", pickled with vinegar, and salty intestines and stomach, totaling 22 products.

The belly of salmon is called HARASU. It used to be cut and thrown away, but now it is sold in bags. The most greasy and delicious, high-end sushi restaurant will cook it for you. I bought it from Tsukiji Fish Market, and it was fried without oil, and so was what the immortals ate.

Like salmon, catfish is the sweetest and most delicious in summer, which is called fragrant fish in Taiwan Province Province. Strange to say, grab a live fish with your hand and put it on your nose to smell it. It has no fishy smell and smells like cucumber.

Catfish are usually eaten after cooking. I believe everyone has tried. What is rare is that its intestines and liver are preserved with batter, called Uluka, which is very bitter and enjoyable.

When it comes to internal organs, the biggest misunderstanding of Hong Kong people is that caviar is called crab. The crisp taste comes from flying fish. Another piece of hard Japanese is called "the son of number", which is an egg tied with fish.

The most famous roe is mullet, also known as mullet or dried fish, which is divided into fresh water and salt water. KARASUMI mullet roe can only be cooked if there are large marine fish. The Japanese call it "Tang ink", which looks like an ink stick introduced to Japan in the Tang Dynasty. Later, it spread to Taiwan Province Province and was carried forward by them. Most people think that Taiwan Province Province was the first to learn to eat mullet roe.

The most precious caviar eaten is puffer fish, which is an appetizer pickled with salt. It takes three years to detoxify. Nothing special, just salty.

Of course, puffer fish must be talked about. One is cooked with meat, which is very sweet and addictive. Amazingly, it doesn't smell fishy when it's cold. If you eat sashimi, you will feel that the meat is very hard for the first time and there is nothing to eat. But the second time, the third time, after chewing carefully, you will know why you are desperate to eat.

Sin. sin. I also tried a whale, covered in treasure, whose subcutaneous fat was called Bergen, because it looked like fat pork. The small intestine is called Baixun, the stomach is called T-shaped, the kidney is called bean dirty, and the breast can be eaten, but the meat at the tail is the best, not worse than Toro, so we can know why the Japanese are so crazy about it.

I have eaten countless fish in Japan, and they are all good to eat raw, but cooked with sake and soy sauce is no worse than steamed fish in Hong Kong, especially the fishtail named Kinki, which has a layer of fat under its skin and can never get tired of eating.

There are so many fish that I don't want to list them one by one. After studying abroad, I wandered around the world again. On the one hand, it is for filming and going overseas to eat fish.

Cai Lan's Gourmet Part II: Face Idiot

I don't remember when I became an idiot. I only know that my mother told me to eat rice since I was a child, and I always pressed the button; I grabbed it as soon as we met, fearing that my brother and sister would sweep it away first. ? How about giving you noodles every day for 365 days a year? Mom asked with a smile. I nodded solemnly and forcefully.

I went abroad for the first time and arrived in Kuala Lumpur. The vacant lot opposite the Federal Hotel is a taxi stand, which specializes in long-distance buses to Cameron Plateau. Three or four people you don't know can share one. Late at night, I saw a vendor. What's his name? Drooling? , serving taxi drivers. Hungry, eating this dish is extremely delicious, and the poison inside is deeper from now on.

It's a kind of fried noodles called Fujian, which is only available in Kuala Lumpur. When I grew up, I went to Fujian and didn't eat anything with the same taste. First of all, noodles are thicker than Japanese oolong noodles and cut into square strips, unlike ordinary butter noodles.

Add a lot of lard, stir-fry and sprinkle with ground fish meal and lard residue. Its fragrance can be imagined, sweet, drenched with thick black soy sauce, like Hainan chicken rice.

The ingredients are only a few small pieces of squid and meat slices. Stir-fry until medium-cooked. Sprinkle a handful of broccoli bean sprouts and lard residue into it, cover it, let the sauce soak the noodles, open the cover and rummage a few times. A plate of dark and oily Fujian fried noodles is ready.

After you have a girlfriend in Kuala Lumpur, you can go there, and then you can eat fried noodles in Fujian. There is a stall behind the bank, a stall in satellite city PJ, and the most famous Porcelain Factory Street? Trollius? .

I liked to eat Wonton Noodles when I first met him, remember? World amusement park? The vendor stalls, stall owners and assistants from Guangzhou are all arranged by one person. Even the factory is arranged. Beat noodles with bamboo in the morning, roll soup with pig bones and native fish in the afternoon, and sell noodles at night. He is also in charge of the propaganda department, knocking bamboo pieces to the ground.

Both soup and noodles are authentic, but barbecued pork is different. Pork is completely thin, coated with maltose, and only red, not burnt black. Because there is no chemical fertilizer, it is not braised or black. From then on, the barbecued pork used in Nanyang barbecued noodles was lean. Some vendors are unskilled and have a terrible smell, but this terrible smell has become homesick and they will look for it.

Wonton Noodles in Nanyang has its own style. My favorite food is dry fishing. I put black vinegar, soy sauce, tomato sauce and hot sauce on the empty plate. The noodles are cooked, drained and mixed with the sauce. On the top are a few cabbage hearts whose weather in Nanyang is not fat or beautiful, and a few barbecued pork with red inside.

In addition, a small bowl of soup is presented. There are several wonton in the soup, wrapped in small bags, with more skin and less stuffing. The fatal attraction is that a large amount of lard residue and sweet and sour green peppers in that small soy sauce can be eaten three times without adding anything, because the amount of noodles is not much.

When they came to Japan in the 1960s, the economy had not yet taken off and people's lives were quite poor. The station at the west exit of Shinjuku is made of wood. There were songbirds under the bridge when I came out. They eat midnight snack, which is Lamian Noodles of the vendor's stall.

Let's try a bowl together. What kind of noodles is that? Hard noodles, that bowl of soup has no meat at all. They are all made of soy sauce and water. Of course, a lot of monosodium glutamate is added, but the price is cheap and it is the best choice.

The Japanese Lamian Noodles we eat today is the result of decades of improvement, and there is no such thing as pig bone soup and noodle soup. If you eat the original Lamian Noodles, you will spit it out.

Instant noodles were invented at that time, but they can be said to be as delicious as today's products, so they will be addictive, or forced to become addicted! It was the cheapest and most convenient food at that time. I bought them box by box at home, a box of 24 packs. Young people eat a lot, eating five or six boxes a month.

What? Eat all the instant noodles? That's right. As soon as I get paid, I will treat people. My visiting friend doesn't know that prices are high in Japan. A meal often eats up 89/ 10 of my income, and the rest is transportation expenses and instant noodles.

The most primitive instant noodles, in addition to the packaging of monosodium glutamate powder, also have two pieces of dried bamboo shoots wrapped in transparent plastic paper, which is more luxurious than today's addition. Remember not to cook, just soak in boiling water. The doctor reminded that eating too much monosodium glutamate is harmful to health, and it is said that there is a layer of wax on the outside of instant noodles, which will accumulate in the stomach if eaten too much. This is complete nonsense. Instant noodles are a boon. I've been eating for decades and I'm still alive.

Traveling to Korea, their noodles are made of miscellaneous grains, hard and tough. For the first time in my life, I ate cold noodles in a big soup bowl with a few pieces of ice floating on it. The waiter cut them open with scissors before swallowing them.

But this kind of noodles can also be addictive, especially dry fishing, mixed with spicy, fragrant and sweet sauce, and I can't get tired of eating it. I still like it very much. Also made into instant noodles, often bought to eat.

As for that name? Xin? I stay away from instant noodle soup. Although I can eat spicy food, I can't drink spicy soup. My throat is red and swollen after drinking it, and I cough desperately.

Zhajiang Noodles, the national dish of South Korea today, is a specialty of Shandong immigrants, which is also called fast food. When you walk into a restaurant and ask for noodles, you will hear the banging of Lamian Noodles. There is nothing but a mass of black paste and a few slices of onion. Eating and eating has become a favorite thing for Koreans. When I go abroad, I want to eat this bowl of dregs, just like Hong Kong people miss Wonton Noodles.

Speaking of which, I remembered an episode. A group of our friends have a painter who broke an arm in primary school. He was an orphan and fell in love with the daughter of another overseas Chinese. We went to see his girlfriend's father. That guy said that my daughter is going to marry a man who knows Lamian Noodles. We were furious and said that you knew our friend was one-armed. What else can we pull? Said he was going to hit someone, and his father ran away.

I didn't know that Italians love noodles until I went to Europe, but that's not noodles, it's powder. Eat what you are; Although Italians eat noodles, they are completely different from us. They cooked half-cooked noodles and rice from the beginning, saying it was the best? Tooth feeling? Or? Bite your head? Yes, I totally disagree.

The only acceptable thing is. Angel hair? (Capflli D 'Angelo), similar to Wonton Noodles. Later, after living in Italy for a long time, I can also feel their coarse noodles, which is called spaghetti.

It's not easy to make spaghetti delicious. Generally, follow the instructions printed on paper and it will be perfect in a minute or two. There is a Mediterranean shrimp in Italy. Its head is black with cold, and its meat is a little moldy. But don't underestimate this shrimp. Spaghetti with a few tails is delicious.

Other shrimps can't. Using Hong Kong shrimp, even if it is alive, it doesn't taste like Mediterranean sea water. Very abstract, but people who have tried will know what I'm talking about.

There is also spaghetti sprinkled with mullet roe, which people in Taiwan Province province don't know, thinking that mullet roe is only eaten by Taiwan Province province and Japanese people. Spaghetti sprinkled with cheese powder will never be mixed with flour itself. Cheese is cheese, flour is flour, but there is a cooking method, that is, dig a piece of cheese as big as a chef's chopping board into a tripod, cook the noodles and put them in for stirring. This is the best spaghetti.

We can't find spaghetti in the former Yugoslavia. Later, after living for a long time, I learned that there is a kind of shredded chicken noodles, as thin as toothpicks and as long as toothpicks, which is very easy to cook. Boil the soup, sprinkle a handful and put it in. Because there is no wonton noodles to eat, let's assume it is. Less soup and more noodles to comfort homesickness.

When I went to India, I found Indian fried noodles, which I loved when I was a child. It is fried with a lot of ketchup and soy sauce. The ingredients are only broccoli, cooked sweet potato chips, bean sprouts and a little mutton. Noodles are completely broken and are my favorite. But I didn't find that the Indian fried noodles I ate were invented by Indians who immigrated to Nanyang.

In those years when I lived in Taiwan Province Province, I ate the most noodles, and there was a legacy of Fujian in those years. Fried Fujian noodles are very authentic. Of course, there are yellow oily noodles and many ingredients, including pork slices, squid, oysters and eggs. Stir-fry until half-cooked, put a large bowl of soup down, cover the pot and cook until cooked. It tastes really delicious and enjoyable.

What the locals do is called noodle cutting. The so-called cutting means "Lu". Cut, it can also be true, cut pig lungs, pig liver, smoked fish and so on. And cut them randomly, also known as. Black and white cut? Sprinkle shredded ginger with thick soy sauce, which is very rich and never tires of eating.

They did their best. Of course they will. Abortion? A school noodle manufacturer cooks noodles and pours minced meat sauce with a teaspoon. This tradition is still maintained today. You must put a jar of meat sauce on the noodle machine, and add a meatball or half a salted egg when eating. Some bean sprouts and vegetables are also added to the noodles. The most important thing is fried red onion, which is called dried onion in Hong Kong. It only smells good when eaten.

When I return to Hong Kong to settle down, I also eat noodles made by Shanghainese. I don't lay eggs, alkaline water, fragrance or teeth. I don't think this kind of noodles has any flavor, but it just fills my stomach instead of rice, but my Shanghai friends never agree with it and scold me for not appreciating it. Of course I don't care.

The best noodles in Shanghai are deep-fried, fried with thick oil and red sauce, and there are a lot of broccoli and little meat, but I like it very much. As for their braised noodles, they are soft and I'm not interested. A burn is equal to a piece of cake. A big bowl of tasteless noodle soup with vegetables on it, serve. I don't think it's anything special either. My favorite is mixed noodles with scallion oil. Cut the Beijing green onions into sections, fry them in oil, and mix the noodles without any ingredients. Very delicious. It's a pity that when I went to a Shanghai restaurant today, I called this noodle and asked if it was lard. Everyone shook their heads. Scallion noodles, not lard, it is better to eat styrofoam. Another alternative is to invite another guest to braise in soy sauce and pick up lard to mix noodles.

There are all kinds of noodles in Hong Kong, but there are few noodles in Thailand. I also advocate this street snack time and again. Now there are several people in Kowloon City who are willing to cook it. They use lard, cook minced meat, pork liver and pork balls, sprinkle with fried shallots and garlic, add a lot of lard residue, and there are countless other ingredients. Noodles are only a handful, and they are my favorite.

When I am crazy about eating noodles, I can cook it myself. I eat different noodles for breakfast every day. I trained all my domestic workers and went back to my hometown to open a noodle restaurant. Cook Wonton Noodles on Monday, Hakka tea and oil noodles on Tuesday, beef noodles on Wednesday, zhajiang noodles on Thursday, lasagna on Friday, Nanyang shrimp noodles on Saturday and Cai fried noodles on Sunday.

Cai's fried noodles inherited the tradition of Fujian fried noodles, using oil noodles. Stir-fry garlic with lard first, and stir-fry noodles in the pot. Seeing that the noodles are too dry, simmer them in soup, fry them again and watch them dry. Beat two or three eggs and mix the noodles together. At this time, add sausage slices, fish cakes and shrimps, then fry until the materials are cooked, and add thick black soy sauce and fish sauce to taste.

Eating noodles in my dreams. I'm so full that I can't stay in my stomach any longer. China people clap their bellies when they say they are full. The Japanese said they were full and put their hands on their necks. When a Spaniard is full, he will point to his ear to show that he is full. My dream is mostly noodles.

Cai Lan Cuisine Part III: Fish eaten during the trip

Take a boat from Kokura, Japan to Busan, South Korea, then take the train, stop by stop, enjoy the local seafood, and finally arrive in Seoul (now Seoul).

Japan catches too many fish and shrimp, but South Korea is still rich and extremely cheap. Call the waiter when you see live fish in the fish tank? Come and eat. Japanese seldom eat sashimi from fish viscera, while Koreans eat it all. Intestines and livers are very delicious when eaten raw. The former is crisp and the latter is soft and sweet.

They make gold stains and pickle raw fish intestines with cabbage, which complicates their taste and is also a culture. The strangest thing is that the devil fish is pickled and fermented, which is extremely smelly, but it is addictive and wants to eat.

There is also a kind of sea eel, which lives at the bottom of the sea. It has a floating animal to eat as soon as it opens its mouth, and its eyes gradually degenerate and become blind. The body has changed, and the bones are gone. The fisherman grabbed a handful of ten tails, lit a fire with straw and threw the blind eel in. Soon, the skin was burnt. Hold your hand tightly and touch it forward to reveal white meat, which will taste like that. It's not tough at all, and it has a bite. Sweet and delicious after chewing.

When I go to Europe, there are always fish and meat for the main course on the menu. I never call it the former. Because foreigners eat fish, cod, grouper, sea mackerel, red snapper, mackerel, yellow croaker, sole and bass come and go. Of course, salmon and tuna are the most common.

Fish is wild, sweet and innocent, but it is not learned. It's either baked or boiled and never steamed. No matter what you do, you must squeeze lemon juice into it. These two ingredients never cooperate, which is a bad habit left over from uncooked fish.

I sometimes see trout swimming in America with bright colors, and they are called "rainbow trout". I was overjoyed. I bought it and steamed it. This meat is rough and tastes strange. I can't swallow my throat.

I thought there were no fish to eat. When I arrived in Holland, I saw herring sold in the street, pickled and fermented and swallowed it whole. I tried one. Ah, sweet and fat, not fishy at all. It is really delicious.

Pickled Portuguese favorite, Macao people call it "vest show", sorry, I don't feel any flavor. On the contrary, when we were in Portugal, everyone did nothing at the Sardines and Fish Festival, and we celebrated with great events. We ate sardines made locally. The meat was good and there was a lot of oil. It was a rare treasure.

When I arrived in neighboring Spain, what impressed me most was the young eel. Use an earthenware pot, burn it red, add olive oil and a lot of garlic, cover it, turn off the fire and cook the fish. The taste is unforgettable.

In Ibiza, Ibiza, there lived a group of old hippies. They traveled all over the country and enjoyed delicious food. They settled in the local area and opened a seafood restaurant. The flounder they choose only sells the edge, grabs the long bones, sucks the young meat and jelly-like fish glue on the bone, which is delicious and can't be eaten by other fish.

Scottish salmon is delicious after smoking, but there is nothing to eat after cooking or frying. FISH'N CHIPS, English fish and chips, can't live without this kind of fish for a day, but I have never lived there for a long time, and I don't know how to appreciate it, because it's not fresh fish.

I didn't know until I went to Italy that they also ate mullet roe, pickled it, dried it, crushed it and sprinkled it on pasta. Among mullet roe, the best quality comes from a small island in Greece. It is packaged by famous French shops and sealed with wax, which is more expensive than gold. The French also cut wine.

But among the caviar in the world, caviar is the most precious. Sturgeon swam into Sichuan from the sea. On the Volga River in Russia, fishermen caught giant sturgeon, namely? Belly, take out the roe, without salt, then send strong vodka and eat it with your hands. Don't waste your life.

If octopus is a fish, octopus from countries around the Mediterranean is the most delicious. Sandwiched with iron mesh, burned on charcoal, with olive oil and salt, lemon juice is essential. It turns out that it is not difficult at all. The species in the Mediterranean are different from others and cannot be compared. If the octopus bought in Hong Kong market is processed in this way, it must be as tough as chewing the sole.

Yepes fish soup eaten at the seaside of Marseille is completely different from other places, and it is made of miscellaneous fish caught by fishermen in the sea that day. These varieties are unique to Marseille. Soup, don't use the word "drink", because drinking soup is only part of it, mainly eating those miscellaneous fish that are fished out of the soup, which is especially sweet.

At the seaside of Istanbul, Turkey, I saw a fishing boat selling fish. The fish were all cooked by fire, and I was not afraid of the boat being burned. All kinds of fish, mainly mackerel, are roasted and sold. Because they were caught on the same day, they can still be eaten.

Back in Taiwan Province Province, their "flower strips" are the most delicious meat. It is a kind of mudskipper, which lives in mud and looks like Macao mullet, but it is ten times sweeter than it. Ginger soup with a few tails is delicious, and no monosodium glutamate is needed. There is another way to eat this kind of fish, that is, roast it on charcoal, but the restaurant thinks it takes too much time and it has gradually disappeared.

Tuna tuna sold in Tsukiji market has been frozen like a big bomb because of too long transportation time. In order not to rot, the head and internal organs have been removed. But in Donggang near Kaohsiung, tuna can be caught not far from the sea, and the internal organs are still fresh. It can be used to cook all kinds of delicacies, such as marinated fish sausage, boiled heart, steamed liver with garlic, boiled soup with fish spine, sucked bone marrow in the middle and boiled fish head. People who like fisheye are coke.

Mainland China's mandarin fish, mandarin fish, squid, white fish, Wuchang fish, perch and so on are famous all over the world, but for me, who is not a snack to an adult, I don't know much about appreciation.