Ludao Xiamen, one of the most suitable cities for living and living in China, is warm, romantic, neat, comfortable, full of human feelings and sense of security, elegant and quiet Gulangyu Island, the island road around the sea, the leisurely Langdang Lake with gulls, the South Putuo with cigarettes, the Wanshi Botanical Garden with southern customs, and the ancient Central Plains since the Han and Tang Dynasties.
As a garden city in Xiamen, Gulangyu Island is naturally a garden among gardens. Here, trees are shaded, flowers are blooming, waves are surging, bright bougainvillea, warm phoenix flowers, birds and flowers everywhere, winding and quiet alleys, magnolia petals that can't be cleaned in the alleys, faint osmanthus fragrance inhaled by the wind, lazy cats dozing under papaya trees on the low fence, old banyan trees with long beards everywhere, old houses with different customs and harmonious piano sounds floating in the old houses, and trees are scattered everywhere. Stepping on this island, wandering in those quiet and life-like alleys, my heart is inexplicably quiet and comfortable. The essence of the island is the alley and the old houses that accompany it. There are both European and American style buildings with pure style and typical red brick Minnan houses with strong regional characteristics. Most villas or ordinary houses reflect the perfect and ingenious combination of western architectural art and China architectural art, for example, the simple and generous Taurik-style Greek columns with extremely Chinese-style kirin, Taiji and other stigma, and the elegant Mei Lan Zhu Ju stone carvings embedded in western-style windows, etc., which are all so exciting. Many old houses here are as intimate as this island, and there is no sense of rejection. There are no motor vehicles and bicycles on the island. When the rain is thin enough to go to the island without an umbrella, it has a very beautiful artistic conception. Sometimes, no one else can be seen for a long time, and the whole island is like walking with you alone, letting you sway your mood.
There is an unmissable snack "Ye's Masi" at the fork of Longtou Road on the island, which has a history of one hundred years. In the eyes of most people, it seems incredible that the development of a hundred years still stays in a stall, but the small business has been running like this, and the middle-aged male stall owner is the third generation. Pull out the drawer under the booth, take out the glutinous rice cake, wrap it in the stuffing made of chopped peanuts, black and white sesame seeds and powdered sugar, knead it into a ball, roll it with a layer of black sesame powder, and a "crispy" is ready. It is sweet but not greasy, waxy but not sticky, and one yuan will make tourists on the island have a sweet memory.
Take a boat back to the ferry from Gulangyu Island, which is where the old city of Xiamen is located, and Kaiyuan Road (completed in August 1924), the first municipal construction road in Xiamen, is located here. Most of the old buildings here are arcaded. The arcade is a kind of architectural form that combines European architecture with the regional characteristics of Southeast Asia. It was introduced to Gulangyu and Xiamen after the Opium War, and then to Kinmen. This architectural form is very suitable for the weather in the south, which can block the wind, rain and scorching sun. Most of the buildings on the first floor are shops, with various types of business and people living on the second floor. Although it is close to the bustling commercial street, it is not disturbed by tourists at all. The streets here, the people here, the extremely rich seafood market here and the catchy Minnan dialect from time to time, their mixed taste is like an original life style painting, which can't help but make you forget that you are still in the city and only experience the strong life atmosphere. There are many small kungfu tea tables at the door of the small shop downstairs, and occasionally you can see the old woman dozing off leaning against the door panel ... The shelter in space keeps the capricious nature out. At this time, it is found that the arcade is such a humanized architectural style ―― quiet, unassuming, contented, but it is just a normal little life, but it is full of flavor.
It's not far from here to Zhongshan Road, a bustling commercial street. The whole street is basically arcade-style, and the famous Huangze and Peanut Soup Shop is located in the riding downstairs of Zhongshan Road not far from the ferry. Peanut soup, the home-cooked snack here, is as white as milk, sweet but not greasy. "Peanuts are all slices, floating on the noodle soup, soft as cotton, rotten but not broken, instant in the mouth, mellow and refreshing", which is very unique. The raw materials are ordinary peanuts, but the cooking method is quite elegant. Peanut kernels should be peeled off first, soaked in boiling water, peeled off, boiled in a casserole with water, and sugar can only be added when the peanuts are cooked, and then boiled in a large pot of soup and sold while rolling. In addition to the sweet and mellow peanut soup, the glutinous rice cake shaped like Mickey Mouse and the rice cake filled with red dates and nuts sold here are also worth a try.
Island Road is a fascinating scenic spot in this city in recent years. Before going on the road, you can taste the "Wutang Satay Noodles", which is known as one of the binary stars of Satay Noodles in Xiamen, at the entrance of the sea bridge near the ferry. Satay Noodles's method seems very simple. Noodles are cooked in a boiling pot under the strainer, fished into a bowl, added with accessories such as pork liver, pork loin, duck tendon, rice blood, fresh squid, dried bean curd, etc. according to your own taste, and finally poured with soup that has been boiling away in the cauldron, and a bowl of noodles can be served within one minute. Whether the noodles are delicious or not depends on the sand tea soup. Sand tea, called sand tea by Xiamen people, originated in Nanyang Islands and was a favorite seasoning food for Malaysians, and was later introduced to Fujian and Guangdong in China. It is made by selecting the first-class shrimp head, pickling it with salt for more than two months, grinding it fine, adding shrimp sauce and garlic sauce in turn to boil and fry thoroughly, and adding spiced powder, curry powder, Chili powder and sesame seeds after cooling. "Black Sugar Satay Noodles" has a history of more than 2 years. Black sugar is the nickname of the boss. Peanut butter, one of the main ingredients, is made by the boss himself. All the auxiliary materials in Satay Noodles are fresh and not frozen. Every day, all kinds of materials are sold out. No matter how many guests there are, they can't catch up until the next day, so it's best not to hope after noon. Sit down at the table in front of the door, savor the steaming Satay Noodles, and look at the island road in front of you and Gulangyu Island in an unobstructed view, leaving the word "satisfaction" in my mind.
Enjoy the beautiful scenery after the delicious food. From here, you can go up to Huandao Road, pass the bridge closest to the sea in the world, the S-shaped sea bridge with the same height as the shore from Yanwu Road to Baicheng, Xiamen University near the mountain and the sea, the beating staff "Wave of Gulangyu Island" written on the green belt in the middle of the road, and the Hulishan Fort, which was built in the 22nd year of Guangxu and is also the largest existing ancient artillery in China. When you turn around, you can get off at any time. Here, you can enjoy walking or running on the beach, rent a bicycle for two or more people to ride over, overlook the Xiaojinmen and Dadan Erdan Island on the other side, fly kites, fish with poles, and go to strawberry fields across the sea to pick strawberries by yourself. You can also do nothing, just sit by the sea in a daze and let the warm sunshine caress you. When the stomach begins to protest, it is a good choice to eat seafood that is indispensable in coastal cities, and Kowloon Pond, Liyumen and Chang 'anmen restaurants that pass by along the island road in turn.
Enjoy a leisurely trip to Ludao, and enjoy a leisurely meal (6)
Seafood is a feature of Xiamen, but the most distinctive thing is the two kinds of seafood that are not regarded as seafood: frozen bamboo shoots and fried oysters. The oyster is fried with the top-grade oyster "Zhuhao" as the main raw material, mixed with eggs, potato powder and garlic seedlings, and fried to crisp yellow on both sides, with Xiamen's unique sweet and spicy sauce and coriander as the seasoning, which is crispy, delicate and delicious. You can often see "oyster omelet" in articles introducing Taiwan Province, which is actually oyster omelet, and it is just a Minnan dialect. The two sides of the Taiwan Strait share the same root, which can be seen in the food culture. Soil bamboo shoot jelly is made of a kind of sand worm named "soil Qiu" which grows on the beach. This kind of sea worm is rich in colloid, which will become frozen after boiling and cooling, like jelly. The best place to eat frozen bamboo shoots on the island is undoubtedly the "Ximen frozen bamboo shoots" near the west gate of Zhongshan Park. This is a small shop with a history of more than 7 years. The predecessor of the shop was the frozen bamboo shoots picked by the owner's father when he was walking through the streets. When he was old, he left a little near the west gate of the park because of his inconvenient legs and feet. Many old Xiamen people remember his figure. In addition to raw materials and technology, seasoning is very important for delicious frozen bamboo shoots. The frozen bamboo shoots here look crystal clear, topped with peanut butter, balsamic vinegar, soy sauce, Xiamen sweet and spicy sauce, mustard and other seasonings, sprinkled with coriander and pickled sweet and sour white radish slices, it tastes delicious and smooth, and the taste is pronounced Q in Minnan dialect. The store is small, and there are tables in the house, but everyone seems to like to sit at the small low table on the street at the door, savoring delicious food and reliving the customs of old Xiamen ...
If you are still unsatisfied after the delicious food, enjoy a pot of kung fu tea. People in southern Fujian are addicted to kung fu tea, and making tea has become a living habit, which can often be seen in streets and lanes. When asked about the meaning of being a man in his later years, Mr. Lin Yutang smiled and replied, "It's just eating, drinking and drinking." I wonder if Mr. Lin, whose ancestral home is in southern Fujian, refers to this kungfu tea after eating and drinking. Kung Fu tea is very particular about tea, tea set and brewing method. Tea is semi-fermented oolong tea, teapot and teacup are very small, and most of them are China white made in Dehua or purple clay pot made in Yixing. The brewing technique is complicated and takes a lot of effort. Everyone thinks that this is the origin of the name of Kung Fu tea.
in fact, the kung fu of kungfu tea is not the brewing, but the tasting. Only when you can taste the taste and essence of tea can you see the real kung fu. In the Qing Dynasty, Yuan Mei wrote a vivid description of oolong tea drinking in Suiyuan Food List: "... the cup is as small as a walnut, and the pot is as small as a fragrant rafter. Every time you pour one or two, you can't bear to swallow it. Smell its fragrance first, try its taste again, chew it slowly and be considerate. Sure enough, it is fragrant and sweet. Pleasant, after one cup, try two cups again, which makes people feel dry and flat. At first, I feel that Longjing (tea) is clear and thin, and Yang Xian (tea) is good but poor in rhyme, which is quite different from jade and crystal. Therefore, Wuyi is famous for cooking in the world. It is really not awkward, and it can be cooked for three times, but its taste is still unfinished. " Tasting kungfu tea is a kind of realm, and with this realm, there will be peace and leisure in life, just like the character of Xiamen people and the character of this city.
There are often comfortable places in this city suitable for staring blankly, and the seaside is one of them. Sitting quietly on the tea table by the sea, sipping the kungfu tea, the waves tirelessly beat the coast, the sea breeze gently stroked my cheek, closed my eyes, and I wanted to be a Xiamen native ...
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