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She Jian Shang de Hanzhong gourmet
There is not a Hanzhong person who doesn't like hot noodle soup. Figure/vision china

Eleven albums of authentic scenery

Qinling-Huaihe River

It is the geographical dividing line between north and south of China.

Because of its special position, this line

Dietary tastes are compatible between north and south.

Crossing the Qinling Mountains, there are heroic northwest and Bashu flavors.

Walking along the Huaihe River, you can see that the Central Plains is thick and Huaiyang is clear and graceful.

National Day and Mid-Autumn Festival holidays

Let's walk along this line together

North and South "Take All"

Third station

Shaanxi Hanzhong

Shaanxi cuisine is always represented by xi 'an cuisine in the eyes of outsiders, as if the old Shaanxi people are all steamed buns with skin, spicy soup and meat.

Of course, there are also paomo where Xi people can't go anywhere without eating. Photography/Li Jiani Map/Tumbler Creativity

In fact, Shaanxi spans a lot from north to south, and the local flavors are also very different-

People in northern Shaanxi like to eat mutton, and neighboring Gansu, Ningxia, Mongolia and Shanxi are all "sheep-eating provinces"; Guanzhong, on the other hand, prefers pasta, sitting in Qinchuan in 800 miles, and is definitely a "master of eating noodles"; However, as soon as we passed the Qinling Mountains, the staple food changed from flour to rice, and the way of eating instantly became gentle. The most representative city is Hanzhong.

Topographic map of Hanzhong. Cartography /F50BB

Hanzhong, the junction of Sichuan, Shaanxi and Gansu provinces, is bordered by Qinling Mountains in the north and Daba Mountain in the south. This is a narrow basin surrounded by mountains. The Hanjiang River originates from ningqiang county in the southwest and traverses the whole territory of Hanzhong from west to east. Abundant water resources endow this land with a southern style.

In the rice fields of Bashan Town, ningqiang county, Hanzhong people eat more rice than noodles. Photography/Zhang Yihong

The food flavor of Hanzhong, just like her geographical location, is "neither south nor north", which combines the strengths of three provinces-Regan Noodles made of Hanzhong rice, Ningqiang spicy chicken with Sichuan flavor, paste noodles that northwest people like to eat, and Lueyang canned tea left by Qiang people ... Each of them has crossed the region and brought a brand-new experience on the tip of the tongue.

Diyiwanre rice noodles

The epitome of "south rice north"

Hanzhong hot rice noodles are completely different from "North West Cold Rice Noodles".

First of all, Hanzhong rice noodles are made of rice pulp. The so-called "Qinling is the line, eating rice in the south and eating noodles in the north", Hanzhong's dough is a technology-it refers to grinding ingredients into powder, but the actual material used is rice. The method in the north, the ingredients in the south and a bowl of Hanzhong hot rice noodles are the epitome of "South Rice North".

Hanzhong Regan Noodles, another hot Shaanxi flavor. Photography/Hanzhong Ge Photography Studio Pictures/Turtles Creativity

Different from northern Shaanxi and Guanzhong, Hanzhong, located in the Hanshui River basin, has a wetter climate and a relatively stable and rich history, so rice can be planted on a large scale in this land. Hanzhong people in southern Shaanxi are not as keen on noodles and steamed buns as other Laoshan people, but prefer rice as their staple food.

Compared with the stubbornness of cold rice noodles, Hanzhong rice noodles are more gentle and full of southern customs. The entrance is soft and waxy, so you don't need to chew hard. The gentle dough melts naturally between the lips and teeth, giving off a charming rice fragrance, and every bite is satisfied with capital letters.

The soft dough is covered with various vegetables, such as bean sprouts and shredded cucumber. Photography/Hanzhong Ge Photography Studio Pictures/Turtles Creativity

Foreigners often call Hanzhong hot rice skin "hot rice skin" to show the difference; In addition to rice noodles, there are cold noodles made of flour in some areas of Hanzhong, which are called "dough" locally, and "vermicelli" made of sweet potato powder. Ningqiang people in the west use fern root powder to make dumpling skins, and then wrap them with stuffing, which becomes a unique "root horn".

Ning Qiang's Root Horn. Photography/white

The breakfast of Hanzhong people often starts with a bowl of hot noodles, and the best partner is undoubtedly a bowl of vegetable tofu. Vegetable tofu is not a simple combination of "vegetables and tofu", but tofu made of syrup instead of marinade. It tastes slightly sour and fragrant, and complements the spicy skin.

Another breakfast is the unique Hanzhong fried dumpling. Different from most people's impression of fried dumpling, Hanzhong fried dumpling has no stuffing and looks more like fried dough sticks. Before frying, the ingredients are bitter bean powder, peanuts, sesame seeds, pepper powder and rapeseed oil, which are brushed on the dough to taste, and then fried until golden and crisp, and the aroma is overflowing.

Hanzhong fried dumpling, vegetable tofu and mixed soup are the classic breakfasts of Hanzhong people. Photo/documentary "Breakfast China"

When a bowl of steaming, finger-wide Hanzhong dough is served, there are "bottom mats" such as shredded cucumber, bean sprouts, shredded potatoes, celery and spinach, poured with "Chili oil" cooked by different families in ten counties and one district, and served with a bowl of coriander tofu. Take a bite of crispy fried dumpling.

Such warm and soft dough is the "gentle hometown" on the tip of Hanzhong people's tongue.

No.2 bowl of noodles

Food genes with northwest flavor

Pulp is the food lineage flowing in northwest people's bodies.

Cushion is a staple food and a snack. Photography /onekeys, maps/maps. com

The rich sour taste and mellow aroma of vegetable tofu come from special slurry, and the mainstream eating method is still in a bowl of sour and attractive slurry water. In Taihang Mountain in the east, Dunhuang ancient city in the west, northern Shaanxi in the south and Ningxia in the north, you can see the figure of playing in the water, and the practice is similar:

Find a dark vat, blanch and chop the vegetables in boiling water, and add the cooked noodle soup or rice soup. For example, southerners need to add "old brine" to pickle vegetables, and also need "acid base" (usually old syrup) to stimulate the flavor. Cover the seal, and you can get the pulp and the pulp soaked in it in a few days.

Slurry photography /onekeys, map/map. com

Most of the serous surface in Hanzhong is made of "Lala cuisine" (potherb mustard), pickled with rape and radish tassels, and seasoned with a few green pepper leaves. Add ginger rice and dried Chili slices, stir-fry until paste, then stir-fry with lard, and finally put a few fried dried bean curd to light yellow, and sprinkle with a handful of chili pepper, which is popular in Shaanxi.

Although the pulp noodles can also be made into machine noodles, the hand-made noodles taste better. The picture shows a common hand-rolled section in northwest China, with a wide surface and a thin surface. Photography/Julie

Noodles are ordinary handmade noodles, and the soul of the paste noodles is all in the soup. Take a sip of sour. The acid in the pulp is not impetuous like Shanxi mature vinegar, but thick, peaceful and positive, which combines the hemp of green pepper and the spicy of pepper, and reaches the forehead at the same time, with full stamina, making people reach the top in an instant.

A bowl of Hanzhong paddle noodles combines the flavors of Gansu, Sichuan and Shaanxi provinces.

In addition to Lueyang in Hanzhong, canned tea is also very popular in parts of Longnan, Tianshui, Lanzhou and Dingxi in Gansu. Photography/seriousness

Another Hanzhong cuisine blindly connected with Gansu people's blood is the pot tea of Lueyang. Lueyang is located in the west of Hanzhong, adjacent to Longnan, Gansu, where the water of the Western Han Dynasty flows into Jialing River and rushes to Sichuan Basin. In this ancient land, the eating habits left by the ancient Qiang people have gone through thousands of years, which constitutes the unique "morning tea" custom of Lueyang people-canned tea.

Production technology of canned tea in Lueyang. Graphics/network

Rather than tea, the canned tea of Lueyang people is more like a pot of thick soup-in addition to tea, oil, salt, flour and broken walnuts are poured into the tea jar, and then seasoned with agastache growing in the mountains to make a pot of thick soup. After the soup is made, the fragrant medicinal tea overflows, and with a few flower rolls or steamed buns, it constitutes a common "source of vitality" for Longnan people (in fact, there are Gansu cities such as Dingxi and Lanzhou) and Lueyang people all day.

Hanzhong, Shaanxi, Sichuan flavor?

Despite being in Shaanxi, Hanzhong people tend to have higher recognition of Sichuan.

Hanzhong is located between Guanzhong basin and Sichuan basin. It is not short of water, but it has abundant rainfall and criss-crossing rivers and canals. It can not only make rape flowers blossom everywhere like Jiangnan, but also produce tea "Hanzhong Xianhao" like Sichuan basin. It is a southern landscape.

Hanzhong is known as "Little Jiangnan", but it is more like "Little Chengdu" in terms of flavor. Photography/revision

Hanzhong tastes more like Bashu land. Almost every household in Hanzhong has oil pepper jars, and hot dough is sprinkled with oil pepper. In practice, it's like chili pepper in Shaanxi, which is even more spicy, and the hotter it is in the south, the hotter it is, and with all kinds of spices, it's more like the spicy taste of Sichuan school.

Spicy chicken made by Bashan native chicken. Photography/white

Hanzhong Ningqiang spicy chicken is based on the spicy chicken in Sichuan cuisine, and it is said to be from the hands of Chengdu chefs. When I arrived in Hanzhong, I switched to local native chicken, and then seasoned it with a lot of spices such as oil pepper, tsaoko, star anise and pepper. The entrance is spicy, which makes diners linger in Hanzhong, but they mistakenly think they have entered the land of Bashu.

From Zhenba bacon, we can also see the roots of the south. The climate in Guanzhong Plain is relatively dry, so we eat less bacon. The south of Hanzhong is connected with Shushan, with humid climate and rugged mountain roads. The local people cured and smoked the Hanjiang black pig to form a golden, bright, fat but not greasy bacon, which was stewed with dried bamboo shoots and had an excellent flavor.

Zhenba bacon and fried bamboo shoots with bacon. Graphics/network

"Geography of Sui Shu" once said: "Hanzhong people are unpretentious and don't make much money. Sexual appetite, there are many things to fish in the field. Although it is Chai Men, there must be meat in food. "

Hanzhong people are very particular about their diet and are gentle and comfortable, just like Shu people are good at enjoying life. A bowl of hot dough in the morning and a bowl of water at noon, relaxing in the old city for a whole day, neither south nor north, four seasons like spring, is exactly the style of Hanzhong.

"Is Hanzhong delicious?" "It's delicious!" Figure/"Wulin Biography"

-End-

Wenyu September

Cover Map | vision china

* Special thanks.

Mr. Chen, an enthusiastic citizen of Hanzhong

Photographer Bai

Hanzhong ge photography studio