Guangning in Zhuxiang is the hometown of chefs in China. Its cooking skills of wonton, dumplings and bamboo noodles have been well-known in Lingnan and even overseas for over a thousand years. After the change of Jingkang at the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, some people fled from the south of the Central Plains to settle in Guangning and live in harmony with the aborigines. The ancestors improved the raw materials and preparation methods of northern wonton, and made use of the high-quality local resources of Guangning Bamboo Township to develop Guangning Wonton with the characteristics of crispy skin, thick meat, fresh and sweet soup and fragrant teeth, which has been passed down to this day.
after the county was established in Guangning in the 17th year of Jiajing in Ming Dynasty (1559), several wonton shops were opened in Nanjie, the county town. Wonton's cooking skills became more and more exquisite, especially the wonton shop next to the ancient post road at the foot of Tagang Mountain, and the diners who came from afar came in an endless stream.
The name of Tagangshan comes from Huang Mengrui, a magistrate of a county, who was born in Jian 'ou County, Fujian Province. In the third year of tomorrow (1623), he was appointed as magistrate of Guangning County, and later promoted to Tongzhi in Fuzhou (now Linchuan City, Jiangxi Province). At that time, he thought that there was no great scholar in Guangning because of "Wenfeng defect" and "poor geomantic omen", so he built a pen tower on the hill beside Duxiang village in the southwest of the county. After the completion of the Wenbi Pagoda in the sixth year of tomorrow (1626), Chen Zhiyuan, Zhou Diankang and other literati were born in Guangning, and the hill was named Tagangshan.
At the foot of Tagang Mountain, there is an ancient official post road, which connects to the county seat in the north, and reaches Guanbu at Suijiang Ferry in Shi 'ao, Nantong (because Shangguan toured or the county magistrate took office, he took an official boat from the provincial capital against Jiang Shangxing, then landed on the shore and entered the city by sedan chair, hence the name Guanbu). When the ancients walked along the official road to the county seat, they would see the towering Wenbi Pagoda standing on the mountain, which was magnificent. In the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the Wenbi Pagoda was abandoned, but this old wonton shop at the foot of Tagang Mountain is still in the same vein, and its business is booming. In the past, diners were busy, seeking to taste the famous Cantonese snacks. The Guangning wanderer, who goes out to do business and visit relatives and friends, will also eat wonton, dumplings and bamboo noodles when passing through the wonton restaurant in Tagangshan. Apart from satisfying his hunger, he is more unaware of when he will return to his hometown. After eating wonton, I will remember the unique delicacies of my hometown and bring them to other places to solve my homesickness.
Juren Jincong, Longhai County, Fujian Province, was appointed as the magistrate of Guangning County in the 23rd year of Qing Emperor Kangxi (1684). When he went to his post, he took an official boat from Guangzhou, the provincial capital, against the Pearl River and Suijiang River, disembarked at the official pier, and took an official sedan chair to follow him into the county seat. He had heard that Guangning Wonton was particularly delicious for a long time, so he told his followers to pay attention to the Wonton shop all the way. After taking the ancient road for the first time, he took a tea break in Shi 'aoling, and he felt even more hungry. The owner of the tea stall told me that the wonton restaurant in Tagangshan, southwest of the county, has a cloud of diners, which is in short supply. The magistrate thanked the stall owner and hurried to lift the sedan chair. When I arrived at the foot of Tagang Mountain, I saw that the wonton restaurant was full of diners and the aroma was overflowing. Follow the trail to the counter. Tell the shopkeeper to make wonton for the master. The shopkeeper saw that the official was tired from his long trip, so he asked the diners to wait a moment and let the official eat first to satisfy his hunger, so as to continue his business trip. The shopkeeper quickly sent more people to the workshop behind the store, rushed to cook with the waiter and cooked in person, presenting wonton.
After enjoying it, the magistrate of a county was full of praise, saying that he had never eaten such a wonton with crisp thin skin, thick and smooth meat and sweet soup, and went to the back kitchen to check the production process. The entourage wanted to buy more wonton and take it to the county government. The magistrate said, "No! It is a nuisance for us to enjoy it before we eat our hometown friends. How can we delay the guest's time? Come back another day. "They said," My master's business is important. I can wait later. " The magistrate of a county asked his entourage to pay more silver to thank the shopkeeper. After that, the group went north through Duxiang Village, Qingyun Bridge, Qingyun Archway, Qingyun Lane, and reached the south gate to enter the county government.
Gold has been in Ningren County for many years, and he especially loves Tagangshan Wonton. In your spare time, go to the store with your entourage or go alone to enjoy the exquisite Wonton Noodles. Many times, he and his family eat Guangning Wonton for dinner. Later, I simply asked the local family chef to go to the Tagangshan Wonton Restaurant to learn from the teacher. The young Guangning chef was ingenious and learned to make wonton stunts, so that the magistrate of a county could eat wonton, dumplings and bamboo noodles with almost the same taste as the Tagangshan Wonton Restaurant at home. Every trustee in the magistrate's county took Guangning Wonton to the provincial capital to send it to relatives and friends, and Guangning Wonton's reputation was more widely spread. He also gave his own salary to the shopkeepers and masters who made exquisite traditional handicrafts, so that the quality of authentic food techniques of wonton, dumplings and bamboo noodles in Guangning was continuously improved and passed down, making him famous in Lingnan.
In the 3th year of Emperor Kangxi of Qing Dynasty (1691), Emperor Nian Jin made outstanding achievements in "stopping thieves and protecting the people, building a learning palace, setting up a school of righteousness, and collecting folk music", so he was called to Beijing. Gold rose from "following orders" to Beijing officials, and Guangning was "extremely missed by scholars."
Gold went to Beijing, the imperial capital, by inviting its own chef from Guangning. After having a smooth job and a stable life, ask the chef to buy the same ingredients as Guangning and make wonton, dumplings and bamboo noodles in Tagangshan, Guangning. Dried bamboo shoots, fungus and mushrooms were brought from Guangning. Gold is always enjoyed by colleagues, relatives and friends after business. After eating it, everyone had an endless aftertaste. They all said that Sansheng was lucky enough to taste such delicious Lingnan fairy products, and it was a long time since we met. After the news spread in the capital and the north, more people poured in. Fu Huang was crowded with people, only suffering from Fu Huang, especially the chef in Quang Ninh.
Today, the TV tower stands on Tagangshan, and the forest is lush. Guangning Wonton Restaurant inherits the ancient craft and welcomes diners from all directions and travelers back home with special alcohol.