Above _ Manchu Dietary Customs and Imperial Meals in the Qing Palace
What is the snack marketing? Routine? The propaganda routine of folk snacks is often: Emperor Qianlong travels south incognito or six times to the south of the Yangtze River. When he is hungry, he offers it or where he gets it, and praises his appetite after eating/drinking; When Eight-Nation Alliance entered Beijing, Cixi fled to the west, naked, without food, and occasionally got folk food. After eating it, she was full of praise After returning to the palace, she recruited the cook into the palace. This routine seems to be found in all snack introductions linked to celebrities, but why are so many emperors going to be the most extensive spokespersons for folk snacks?
The most direct reason is that the Qing Dynasty is the closest feudal dynasty to modern society, and there are relatively many folk stories and legends. In addition, Qianlong and Cixi undoubtedly belong to the third place of men and women in history of qing dynasty, plus Emperor Qianlong went to Jiangnan six times; Cixi fled westward through Hebei, Shanxi, Shaanxi, and returned through Henan, so their footprints were richer than those of other emperors, so snacks from all over the world also wanted to use them? Climb the dragon and attach the phoenix? Stories about food can increase popularity, but some food stories are far-fetched. (Humble desire for survival: All the snacks involved in this article are only for historical comparison, and there is no malicious slander. )
Above _ Comics of Cixi Escaping from the West painted by the West
Gan Long: No, for example, I didn't eat Luoding rice rolls. Legend has it that when Gan Long went to the south of the Yangtze River, he was bewitched by Ji Xiaolan, the minister of restaurants, and went to Luoding to eat Dragon Shrines. When eating the Dragon Palace, Qianlong was full of praise, saying: This is not Ciba, but a bit like pig intestines. Just call it rice rolls, hence the name Luoding rice rolls.
But in fact, Emperor Qianlong has never been to Luoding area in Guangdong Province. The farthest place under the Ganlong River is Jiangsu and Zhejiang, so he has never set foot in Luoding House. How can he go to Luoding to eat rice rolls? In addition, it is also confused to be bewitched by Ji Xiaolan, a foodie, because Ji Xiaolan is a famous gluttonous person who only eats meat instead of rice and noodles in the historical materials of Qing Dynasty. How can he eat his rice rolls? Vegetarian? Food.
Moreover, according to an article entitled "Jiangnan Festival as usual" during Qianlong's thirty-year southern tour, during his southern tour, Emperor Qianlong still ate the dishes cooked by the accompanying chefs: a product of stewed bird's nest with rock sugar, a product of fried chicken home-cooked hot pot, a product of shredded bird's nest duck, a product of mutton slices, a product of steamed duck paste pork, a product of red cake and a product of bamboo roll steamed buns.
Above _ Emperor Qianlong's Southern Tour
As for the glutinous rice duck, evergreen stew, shredded chicken with bird's nest, green bamboo shoots and rotten chicken presented by Suzhou Weaving House at that time, who gave it and who made it are indicated at the back of the menu. Even the dishes produced by Emperor Qianlong's own Imperial Tea Dining Hall will be marked with the names of royal chefs such as Zhang Dongguan, Rizo and Song Yuan.
According to the twenty-four volumes of Shouji Zhai Ji by Zhen Wu, Governor of Yunnan and Guizhou during the reign of Jia Dao:? The dining hall prepares royal meals, whose goods and things are made by whom, and makes drafts every day and submits them to the Minister of the Interior for drawing. Therefore, if the cooking is improper, the person who takes care of it is blameless and sincere. .
In order to ensure the safety of the emperor's diet, the source of food and the chef have special records, and the food provided by local officials is also clearly recorded. At the same time, most of the food delivered was in line with the emperor's taste. If you rashly offer some local snacks, and the emperor doesn't like it, that's the best result. If something goes wrong, I'm afraid no one can bear it.
Above _ Eight-Nation Alliance went to Beijing.
In the above _ 190 1 June, the notice posted by Eight-Nation Alliance listed the provisions of 14 that restricted China people's activities in the occupied areas.
Cixi: No, I haven't eaten it. What did Cixi praise? Pingyao bowl holder? It's just the good wishes of the merchants. This snack and the story of Cixi are probably like this: 1900, when Eight-Nation Alliance invaded Beijing, Empress Dowager Cixi traveled westward through Pingyao, hungry, and ate Pingyao food, which was full of praise and rewarded on the spot, making Pingyao food famous in Beijing.
But the question is, according to when did Empress Dowager Cixi escape to the West? The grain table in front of the road? According to the record of Huailai county magistrate (logistics director) Wu Yong in "Geng Zi Xi Hunting Talk". Cixi fled from Huailai County to the west by Huailai Xuanhua Datong Yangqu and then arrived in Taiyuan from north to south. Pingyao is in the south of Taiyuan, so Cixi won't pass Pingyao on her way to Taiyuan, but will have a bowl in Pingyao. How could she be shocked in the capital? There is something strange about this brain circuit.
Above _ Empress Dowager Cixi fled to the west.
Of course, Cixi then fled from Taiyuan to xi 'an, possibly passing Pingyao, but surely no hungry people will come to eat these folks, right? Coarse grains? It was in Huailai County that Cixi and Guangxu ate mung bean porridge and boiled eggs because they had just escaped from the capital, but after arriving in Taiyuan, the capital of Shanxi Province, the governor of Shanxi, Yu Xian, tried his best to flatter the two palaces in order to save his life. Even when Emperor Jiaqing was preparing to visit Wutai Mountain, the support and furnishings of the royal family were moved out of the warehouse, showing a royal atmosphere in the accommodation of the two palaces.
Even Rong Er, the maid-in-waiting of Cixi, said that since she arrived in Taiyuan, there has never been a day when she picked cowpeas and cooked them in the wild like when she first left the palace. And because I arrived in Taiyuan just after the Mid-Autumn Festival, I started making ivory? Eight crabs? Eat crabs. When leaving Taiyuan, Yuxian prepared agate for Cixi, and the water bowl was replaced by cloisonne. Even the tea leaves are sealed with bamboo tubes and tied with Huanglingzi's southern tribute tea. What about the bowl? Slight cold? Our food can't enter the eyes of Lafayette at this time.
Above _ Emperor Jiaqing (1760? 1820)
The real imperial cuisine of Qing Dynasty. So what did the emperors of the Qing Dynasty mainly eat in their daily lives? According to the internal affairs file and? Palace powder? According to records, pork was the most used in the Qing palace, followed by mutton, duck, cakes and milk tea (ennnnm really loved milk tea). Qianlong preferred bird's nest, while Cixi did not eat mutton. In terms of taste, what is the biggest feature of food in the early Qing Dynasty? Heavy salt and heavy color? With the continuous integration with China culture, Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine entered the court, and the taste of Manchu gradually faded, but the taste was still fatty.
Pork, in particular, played an important role in the Qing Dynasty compared with other foods. First of all, a large number of pigs will be used in the sacrifice of Kunning Palace. As the residence of the Empress of the Ming Dynasty, Kunning Palace became a place for offering sacrifices to gods and cooking meat in the Qing Dynasty? Central kitchen? . The daily sacrifices in Kunning Palace are divided into morning sacrifices and evening sacrifices. Every time, two healthy black pigs are cooked in two cauldrons in the palace to worship the gods. However, since four pigs are cooked every day, it has been recorded since Yongzheng that the pork in Kunning Palace is sold by eunuchs for extra money.
Above _ There is a high-volume curtain on the partition door in the west corridor of Kunning Palace, and there is a water pump next to the door.
On the second day of New Year's Day and the Spring and Autumn Festival, the emperor personally went to the Palace of Kunning to offer sacrifices, and led nearly ten thousand governors, governors, ministers and others to share the sacrifices? Meat? . Assigned to the royal sacrifice? Meat? This is a great honor for the minister, but it is an old custom of Manchu: you can't leave the place of worship and stay overnight. Therefore, ministers must finish the meat in front of the emperor, and these tasteless pork without seasoning also make ministers very headache. So there was a rumor that soy sauce paper wiped the knife, and there was even a story called? White cook the meat? Beijing famous dishes.
If a lot of pork is needed to sacrifice to the gods, the amount of pork consumed by the harem every day will be even greater. According to the current rules in the palace? Gong Fen said that Empress Dowager Cixi used 50 Jin of pigs every day, the Empress used 16 Jin of pork, and the Imperial Lady used 12 Jin of pork. The rest are arranged in descending order, and the lowest grade promises to give 12 pork every day.
Judging from the amount of pork consumed by the Empress Dowager, Empress and Imperial concubine every day, the three of them consume 28,470 Jin of pork every year. Therefore, in the food baskets of Qianlong and Cixi, there are neither ordinary humps and scarlet lips nor simple and casual folk snacks, but fishing and hunting, a diet with strong national characteristics, and a strict dining system.
Above _ Yu Deling (1886 ~ 1944), pen name Princess Deling.
What does the empress dowager like to eat? Keep it secret! Take Cixi as an example. De Ling accompanied Cixi to visit Shengjing. Because she was facing each other day and night on the train, she wrote in "Two Years of Qing Palace" that the old lady loved ducks, especially duck skins. But in fact, for the sake of safety, Empress Dowager Cixi never easily tells anyone what she likes to eat, nor allows anyone to inquire about what she likes to eat. ? Because I don't want you to know, I don't want you to know. If anyone talks nonsense about what the old lady likes to eat and what snacks she eats, she will be tempted by his head. .
At the same time, when eating, Cixi will never experience it? Eat like a pig What it feels like. Because there will be four executives standing next to her when she eats? Family law? Eunuch. When Empress Dowager Cixi prepares to eat the third spoonful of the same dish, the eunuch in charge will shout? Withdraw? This dish can't appear on Galeries Lafayette's table for half a month from now.
What if someone wants to do it? Lick the dog? , deliberately let master eat more, there will be other eunuchs soon, give him a few? Leather fence? (that is, wearing leather gloves and opening your mouth wide). According to Pu Jia of Bandu when Pu Yi went to school, the catering system in Qing Dynasty was particular? Take a look, two eyes and three eyes? These dazzling dishes are not all eaten, but more called? Look at the food? .
Above _ Photo of Cixi Palace
And contrary to what most snacks preach, many snacks related to the royal family are not just introduced from the people, but spread from the palace. Like the famous? Imitation food? Manchuria Bobo, represented by Saqima, and the white cook meat mentioned above are all dishes and snacks flowing out of the palace.
Once, the cooking skills of the Imperial Tea Restaurant were very mysterious. Even if Emperor Kangxi gave the minister Xu Babao tofu, Xu still had to pay 1000 taels of silver to the Imperial Restaurant? Intellectual property fees? . However, after entering the Republic of China, the royal expenses of Xun and Qing dynasties decreased, and a large number of royal chefs were dismissed. Many foods with court characteristics began to enter the people and spread. The reason why China's specialty snacks in the north and south of the Yangtze River have taken pains to hook up with the imperial court is to earn more money.
As Zhao satirized in the essay "Cixi Restaurant", anyone who hangs the name of the imperial court and takes Qianlong and Cixi as contemporary people can fly to the branches and become a phoenix. But for ordinary diners, as long as they are not deliberately faked and genuine, even if the stories of dishes and snacks are bizarre and excessive, diners who have tasted delicious food can laugh it off.
Text: Wei Siwei
References:
1 "Jiangnan Festival as usual"
2 "Existing Rules in the Palace"
3 "Southern Tour Festival" edited by Jin et al.
4. Kate Zhen of Shou Ji Zhai Cong Lu.
5. "Geng Zi Xi Hand Congtan" Wu Qinyong
⑥ The Palace Maids' Notes were recorded in Jin Yiling.
7 "Xiao Ting Zalu" Qing Zhao Lian.
8 "Listening to the Rain" Qing Fogg
9 Narrative of Qing Palace edited by Zhang Naiwei.
10 "Palace Drinking" Meng Fanzhi
1 1 "Life experience of the court in the late Qing Dynasty" edited by the Literature and History Research Committee of China People's Political Consultative Conference.
The text was created by the team of History University Hall, and the pictures originated from the Internet and belonged to the original author.