when I came back from Gulangyu in the evening, it was already dark and the night gradually covered the sea.
Sitting on the ferry, Xiamen behind us is full of brilliance, and those striking urban shapes are gradually left behind. The sea breeze brushed my face and body, and the heat of the day seemed to dissipate. The people on the ferry temporarily put down the chase during the day and walked home in a loose posture. Except for the sound of the engine, the ship was very quiet.
It takes less than half an hour to ferry from Gulangyu to zhangzhou port, but there are not many tourists on board. Most of them are office workers who are traveling in Xiamen and zhangzhou port and students from Tan Kah Kee College. During the rest, zhangzhou port, who had just overlooked, soon came into sight.
There was a little commotion on the boat, and some people stood up and packed their things to get ready to disembark. When the ferry approached the shore, it suddenly became noisy.
People have stepped out of their seats, tourists have flocked to the door, and office workers have flocked to the center of the boat, pushing their motorcycles and trams, getting into their cars, and anxious to return waited for the boat to dock, stepped on the gas pedal, rushed out of the dock, and returned to his warm residence to wash away the fatigue and tiredness of the day.
We went ashore with the crowd and walked out of the dock. The old couple had been waiting for a while.
At that time, Lao Mo went to the sea alone and created Fujian. After more than ten years, she is now a female boss with her own company, and she is doing well. The scenery in front of us is directly proportional to the hardships behind us.
She has been busy these days since I arrived, and she can only relax on weekends. Today is Friday. They came back from the company and took us to the famous fish steak by the sea to eat seafood in zhangzhou port.
Zhangzhou night market is most impressed by two places, one is the fruit shop on both sides of the road, and the other is the seafood with fish chops.
Litchi, bananas, longan, jackfruit, Sakyamuni, etc. in the fruit shop are all fresh goods that have just been picked. In big fruit shops, there are several varieties of bananas alone, which exude all kinds of fruit fragrance and tease our taste buds.
I bought two bags full of lychees, and we talked while eating. "Zhangzhou is commonly known as the hometown of fruits, because it is only separated from Taiwan Province by a sea. In recent years, it has also introduced a large number of Taiwan Province fruits, such as guava, lotus fog and green dates." The old silent introduced.
sitting in front of the fish steak table, there is another way to eat that makes me stunned: dip litchi in soy sauce. I forgot to talk, and litchi dipped in soy sauce went into my stomach one by one. I can't believe this way of eating unless I try it myself. The fresh pulp is translucent and coagulated, peeled and put into the soy sauce, and the entrance is cold, smooth and sweet, and then mixed with the salty soy sauce ... The taste is too good to describe.
however, once they are shipped to the north and bought in supermarkets, the price is expensive, and the taste is greatly reduced. The meat is hard to eat, and the elasticity is not enough. After a few days, only the monotonous sweetness and the silky feeling of cotton wool are left.
so, it's not the same thing that one side of the soil and water can support one side, and the fruits from the south are transported to the north.
The seafood on the fish raft was also salvaged from the sea that day. The boss of the platoon fixed the boat at the seaside and surrounded it. There were several tables on the deck. There were many high-grade seafood on the menu, such as hairy crabs, prawns and scallops ... which were surprisingly expensive in the north.
Two scalloped shrimps filled the whole plate, and the meat inside was plump and fresh. Compared with crayfish and shrimps, they didn't eat any meat after peeling for half a day. Half scalloped shrimps were enough to eat shrimp.
other fish, shellfish, sea cucumbers and squid are naturally not a problem, and dishes are served, which makes me let go of my stomach and kill people who have insisted on not eating dinner for several years. This is the real seafood stall. Compared with the fried razor clam that I ate in the Furong Restaurant of Xiamen University the day before yesterday, it's really a drop in the bucket.
when the sea breeze blows, you can see the lighthouse in the distance. The bright lights of the city are filled between the sky and the sea. Several nearby bridges with different shapes stand on the sea, and the lights of various colors are flashing, which looks like jumping notes to me.
The shopkeeper tried his best to cook, and plates of dishes were served with smiles, speaking the incomprehensible Minnan dialect, but it sounded good. There is music in Minnan dialect, what's more, there are Minnan songs in my ears from time to time.
The nightlife of Zhangzhou people is very rich. According to Lao Mo, there is a long history here, including Minnan songs, which are deeply related to the soil and water here.
In the past, people by the sea made a living by fishing. After going out to sea, they faced all kinds of difficulties and obstacles. Storms, typhoons and drowning in the sea happened from time to time. In order to make a living, fishermen risk their lives to go fishing in the sea, and the offshore can't meet the needs. If you want to catch large and diverse seafood, you have to go to the deep sea for a few months. Men go fishing at sea, and women take care of their children at home. After a long night, I endured the yearning and fear, and in order to relieve this pressure, Minnan songs were produced.
The fisherman's wife can't sleep at night, so she sings, and sings the hope for life, the blessing to her family and the desolation of being alone into the song, which is written into the words as a spiritual motivation to encourage herself and look forward to her husband's safe return.
Therefore, the content sung by Minnan songs mostly describes the most common and common scenes in people's daily life, lamenting that life is positive and enterprising, which easily causes people to sing. Its lyrics are generally simple, popular and emotional, and most of the melodies are full of profound sadness, full of charm and easy to hum, which many people like to listen to. "Love Will Win", which was widely sung in the 199s, is one of the representative works.
Only by going deep into it can we deeply understand the local culture. Are the stories behind them very touching? For us northerners, these songs are like a warm and soft spring breeze, blowing through streets, cities and villages, blowing through our little hearts.
At this time, when you listen to Minnan songs, the taste will be different, because you can hear the hardships and struggles of people living by the sea. ?
I felt the night market in zhangzhou port, and it was very late when I went back. For me, who always likes going to bed early, it was also an experience of local life.
A lark like me basically has no spirit after seven o'clock in the evening. Lao Mo is a night owl, full of spirit at night, and has made obvious class division at school.
I went back to Lao Mo's house drowsily, but she was still not satisfied, and she took out her own Yangmei wine and insisted that I drink another half cup. Yellowish slurry, made of local bayberry, I really haven't tasted it. A natural fragrance came to my nose, and I gulped it down with Lao Mo.
A burst of tiredness struck me, and I quickly fell asleep in the dense smell of bayberry wine.
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What do I need to prepare?
How much?