We met Hou Xinqing, a master of Huaiyang cuisine who came from Nanjing in the Yangzhou banquet parking lot.
Yangzhou banquet gatehouse is magnificent and elegant, and the service personnel are waiting to open the door.
One of the largest boxes of Yangzhou banquet is named after the Twenty-four Bridge, one of the top ten scenic spots in Yangzhou.
Chen Wanqing, the general manager, had a temporary reception task and entrusted Master Tao Xiaodong to preside over the luncheon. He will arrive halfway.
Jade cooking gold is extremely fragrant, and there is no day and no banquet in the Spring and Autumn Period.
During the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, salt merchants in the Huaihe River and Huaihe River began to get rich, and they kept singing and feasting every night. At the beginning of Qing Dynasty, the annual tax revenue of Huai salt reached a quarter of the national fiscal revenue, and the salt merchants in Huai River and Huai River also rose, and their power reached its peak. They recruit famous chefs from all over the world, search for rare treasures in the sea, create a rare taste and enjoy a luxury. By the middle of the Qing Dynasty, Huaiyang cuisine had formed two branches: Hecao Salt monopolized the official dishes made by the chefs of various yamen and salt merchants; The other is a common dish of Huai 'an chefs and ordinary people. Although each has its own characteristics, unique skills and splendid scenery, it lacks comprehensive integration and refining, and has not formed a joint force of local cuisines.
It was not until the prosperous time of Kanggan that the historical changes ushered in a new turning point for Huaiyang cuisine.
1833 "salt class changed votes", and salt merchants in Huaibei declined; 1855 grain transportation changed to grain transportation, and the Huaihe River entered a recession.
Without the money demanded by the government and salt merchants, the seats in Yinzhu restaurant will end. As a result, all the famous chefs from outside returned to their positions. Although they have left, their exquisite skills have been left to the disciples of Huai and Huai, preparing a huge talent echelon for the rise of Huaiyang cuisine.
186 1 In the spring of, the Qing court merged with the General Administration of Rivers, and later represented Cao Du Wutang. He put forward a regulation on banquets for local officials, businessmen and people: it is not allowed to buy exotic smells from far away, and only the local products of Huaibei and Huaihe can be used to entertain guests and receive distinguished guests. This administrative measure has a great influence on the final perfection of the "Huai cuisine" system.
Since then, Huaiyang cuisine has returned from temples to rivers and lakes, and has been transformed into gold together with local specialties in Huaibei, and accumulated many delicious dishes. Huaiyang cuisine has changed from a rich official to a scholar and a luxurious person returning to the countryside, which ushered in the all-round development period of Huaiyang cuisine.
It has been 150 years. Our Yangzhou banquet is a new generation leader in the localization of Huaiyang cuisine and literati cuisine. We just won the 20 19 Black Pearl Erzuan Restaurant, which was in full swing at that time.
Certificate of two black pearls and diamonds for Yangzhou banquet
Today's cookbook
If Nanjing is a "duck city", then Yangzhou is a veritable "goose city" with one of the best goose breeds in China, Yangzhou Goose.
According to statistics, Yangzhou people consume 20 million salted geese every year, and at the same time, the number of Yangzhou wind geese exceeds 60 million.
Yangzhou salted goose, commonly known as "old goose" by Yangzhou people, is an indispensable famous dish in Huaiyang cuisine.
The history of raising and eating geese in Yangzhou can be traced back to the Tang and Song Dynasties. Yao He, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, described Yangzhou as "a place where bamboo is planted and geese are raised without a home" in Yangzhou Spring Poetry. As early as the Ming Dynasty, goose was the most common dish, which can be seen in some note novels.
In the Qing Dynasty, the salty goose was praised by Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong from Jiangnan to Yangzhou, so it became famous all over the world.
In the 20 1 1 version of the World Health Organization health food list, the champion of meat health food is goose.
Therefore, at present, in Huaiyang cuisine, which advocates taste as the core and cultivation as the purpose, goose cuisine has become the number one famous dish.
The salty goose head of the day was salty and delicious, with a meaningful aftertaste. Opening each goose head is like opening a delicious palace. Goose lips, tongue and brain are fat and thin.
Coir cucumber, one of the masterpieces of Huaiyang cuisine swordsmen, is a compulsory item in Huaiyang cuisine swordsmen's examination.
Bad brine and celery powder make celery fragrant and fresh, and beef has a long aftertaste.
The freshness of shredded fish belly was changed by the freshness of shredded lettuce. Meat and vegetables are crisp and complement each other.
Waxy, delicious, tough and fresh, the best wine.
The duck lips are crispy, the taste is determined by the halogen, and the onion is refreshing. It is also a good accompaniment to wine.
The kindness and tolerance of soybean eased the arrogance and salty taste of salted fish and made it charming and colorful.
In addition to double yellow salted duck eggs, Gaoyou also has snacks that can't be underestimated. It is the traditional snack of Jieshou town in Gaoyou area-Jieshou dry tea.
Jieshou dry tea is oblate, with red sauce color and light yellow meat, which looks like chicken breast. Fragrant and delicious, delicious and mellow.
In 20 14, Jieshou dry tea was listed as a national geographical indication product, and there were two other products in Yangzhou, namely Baoying Jinghe watermelon and Yangzhou Shatou green shell egg.
Fennel, clove, cinnamon and dill were added in the production of Jieshou dry tea.
Therefore, it tastes like a special fragrance that is not found anywhere else.
During the dinner, serve a basin of iced bayberry and organic carrot. "Litchi in Fujian and Guangxi, Grape in Xiliang and Myrica rubra in wuyue". Obviously, Yangmei is the pride of Jiangsu and Zhejiang.
Sure enough, Yangmei is sweet, juicy and sour, which instantly relieves the boredom of the whole summer.
Bean jelly and cold melon are the warmest greetings from Yangzhou.
Both Toona sinensis bud and Zizania latifolia have a weak appearance and a hard-core character.
Double-layer sesame cake, whose crust is made of oil-water noodles and oil-filled noodles. Roll the oil surface outside and the whole oil surface inside into a round stick shape, then make dough, wrap it in black sesame stuffing made of oil and sugar, and then throw it on sesame to cook.
This kind of cake has crispy crust, crispy inner layer and sweet filling.
The first hot dish is fried Huaiyang soft bag with shallots, which is personally operated by Master Tao Xiaodong. Like Chen Wanqing, Tao Xiaodong studied under Zhou Xiaoyan, a master of Huaiyang cuisine. Tao Xiaodong likes poetry and songs. He writes well and can draw. Starting from the Twenty-four Bridges, he sketched out the grass and trees of the Slender West Lake in Yangzhou step by step, and then transformed it into the elegant ink and wash temperament of Huaiyang cuisine. His achievements in culinary arts enabled him to enter the Elysee Palace in France, where he was cordially received by French President Macron and held a state banquet together.
Soft-pocked long fish, also known as "soft-pocked eel", is a traditional dish of Huaiyang cuisine. This dish is made of pen-thick eel, tenderloin and oil pan fire. The chef of Huaiyang cuisine is best at using eel as the main ingredient, and cooking it into mats, which can be matched with various dishes and tastes.
The first taste of this dish is tender, followed by garlic and vinegar, and finally the rich white pepper.
The appearance of the crystal elbow cloud in "Lotus Fragrant Steamed Bunch" is amazing! Its crystal means crystal jelly. This dish seems to have developed from the traditional famous dish of Shandong cuisine, Crystal Elbow Flower. The color, smell and taste are all good, and the dry ice serving ceremony is even more commendable. The crystal elbow is white and glittering, and it tastes fresh and fragrant.
Miao Cao, Cao Tou, Chrysanthemum yellow dolphin with white juice, that is, Chrysanthemum yellow puffer fish slowly stewed in white soup, are the freshest things in spring in Jiangnan area. With Huaxi Ocean Company, we can also taste the delicacy of puffer fish in midsummer. The stewed puffer fish meat is thick in white soup, the fish liver is particularly fresh and tender, and the taste is enchanting. The most wonderful thing is the fish skin, the whole entrance, and the fish bones on the back of the fish skin are said to have the effect of removing stomach cold. Of course, compared with the wild puffer fish that Party A invited me to eat in the past years, it is still a little fresh.
Chopped pepper steamed stinks big yuan. The stinky circle is brewed with three-year-old amaranth soup. Stinky has a unique taste, which makes many stinky people linger.
Xuecai, watercress and stickleback are all fresh ingredients in Jiangnan, and the trinity is simply a delicious pyramid. Especially the thorn fish soup, which absorbs the sunshine essence of Chinese cabbage and the earthy temperament of watercress, becomes more and more tender and unstoppable.
With the blessing of dried prawns and scallion oil, the old gourd has simply become the last thin West Lake Rinpoche in summer.
Fried bread, fried bread with bright bottom, like a general with a bright sword. The white case of Yangzhou banquet is comparable to that of Qiqu Garden, both of which are first-class in Yangzhou.
A perfect fried bread
The juicy crispy noodles with fillings are the life attitude that a fried bag should stick to!
Yangzhou fried rice has a huge lineup of ingredients, led by Master Tao Xiaodong. He started with a big casserole, patiently fried the yolk of Gaoyou Shuanghuang salted duck eggs with olive oil until it foamed, then added steamed fluffy rice grains, and then added shredded scallops, diced ham, diced mushrooms, diced shrimps, diced bamboo shoots, peas, osmanthus eggs and so on. These elements are like a symphony orchestra with tacit cooperation. Under the guidance of Master Tao Xiaodong, Yangzhou fried rice was interpreted as the most brilliant movement of the day.
Ending the lunch of this summer Yangzhou banquet with a bowl of delicious Yangzhou fried rice is like a golden wind and jade dew, which is countless in the world.
Author: Jitumi, a gourmet expert
Photography: food reader Jitumi.
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