Qishan noodles with minced meat, a famous local flavor snack in Shaanxi, has gained a growing reputation in recent years. A scholar of food culture wrote that among many kinds of pasta, Lanzhou beef Lamian Noodles, Shanxi Daoxiao Noodles and Qishan noodles with minced meat are the three best in Chinese pasta. Qishan noodles with minced meat are exquisite in materials, exquisite in production, special in eating method, long in history and profound in cultural connotation, and really worth eating. In particular, the traditional eating method of "only eating noodles, not drinking soup" has aroused people's strong interest and is often passed down as a anecdote or as a topic of discussion, leaving room for imagination.

although Qishan noodles with minced meat originated in Qishan county, Xifu county, Shaanxi province, it has already settled in Xi' an and become a dazzling member of Xi' an flavor snacks. Nowadays, in Xi 'an, there are restaurants and restaurants catering to different countries, nationalities and places all over the streets. Among them, there are more than a thousand restaurants and restaurants named after Qishan noodles with minced meat, I think there are hundreds at least, and there are even more restaurants that operate noodles with minced meat without Qishan's name. Therefore, it is a pity that tourists at home and abroad fail to taste Qishan noodles with minced meat when they arrive in Xi 'an.

Xiashan people especially like noodles with minced meat. Eat noodles with minced meat every day during the Spring Festival. For weddings, funerals and weddings, the breakfast must be noodles with minced meat, and the lunch must be served with wine, but at the end, two bowls of noodles with minced meat should be added. For lunch, guests can be noncommittal, but for breakfast, they should praise a few words to show their gratitude, because this is the measure of Qishan people's grand hospitality. Shameless noodles have also become a standard to measure the ability of a daughter-in-law. Therefore, all mothers should teach their daughters to learn the course of noodles with shame. A native Qishan people, I don't know how to eat tens of thousands of tons of noodles with minced meat all his life. For generations, noodles with minced meat are inseparable from the life of Qishan people. It can be said that Qishan people grew up eating noodles with shame.

why is this? Some people say that Qishan is rich in high-quality wheat. Some people further argue that China culture can be divided into Yellow River culture and Yangtze River culture. The Yellow River culture belongs to wheat and millet culture, and the Yangtze River culture belongs to rice culture. Qishan and its surrounding area are an important area of wheat and millet culture, and it is related to Shennong's teachings and Zhou's starting from here. This certainly makes sense. But it seems that we can't stop at this point. Qishan is not the only place that is rich in wheat. Compared with Qishan, there are many places where the quality of wheat is comparable. Why is Qishan the only one that has emerged and preserved the tradition of eating noodles with minced meat?

Li Xinru, a printmaker, is a native of Qishan. As a member of China Artists Association and Folk Art Committee of China Arts and Crafts Society, he won the title of associate researcher for his theoretical research achievements in folklore and other fields. He put forward an interesting point of view; Qishan noodles with minced meat only eat noodles and don't drink soup, so it is the custom of "simmering soup" to pour the leftover soup back into the pot. It was originally a derivative form of the ceremony of "simmering excess" in the Zhou Dynasty. What's going on here?

It turns out that people usually only publicize how delicious Qishan noodles with minced meat are, but rarely talk about the authentic way of eating authentic Qishan noodles with minced meat. In this regard, Li Xinru said: "The common sense rule of eating noodles with minced meat is to only eat noodles without drinking soup, but the leftover soup is never treated as waste soup, but it should be taken back to the kitchen and poured into the original soup pot, and it will continue to be heated, processed and supplemented, and it will be circulated again and again between the cabinets. At this kind of banquet, distinguished guests and old people should be seated on the table and receive special respect. If they don't move chopsticks, the younger generation will have to hold back their appetite for a while. Their leftover soup is called' Fubazi' for everyone to receive repeatedly. "

Li xinru went on to say that the origin of the so-called "soup" began with the blessing of the elders and VIPs. In fact, before the elders and distinguished guests moved chopsticks, the gods had already' eaten'. Qishan residents, no matter who's wedding banquet guests or festivals held a family dinner, the first bowl of noodles with minced meat must not be served, but should be taken out to splash soup. The job of splashing soup is often a matter of contention between the precious grandchildren. Pouring soup twice outside the gate first means that the gods of heaven and earth have come to' Fubazi'. Then I went back to the building and poured soup on the memorial tablet of my ancestors, in order to give the' Fubazi' of heaven and earth to my ancestors. After these ceremonial ceremonies are completed, the banquet can be served, and the' Fubazi' of the elderly and VIPs can begin to cycle. "

The eating custom of Qishan noodles with minced meat originated from Zhou, and Li Xinru found a strong basis from the Book of Rites. In the Book of Rites, there are many discussions on the ceremony of "offering sacrifices with a glutinous rice cake" and "offering a glutinous rice cake with a glutinous rice cake", one of which says: "The husband's sacrifice has a glutinous rice cake, and the funeral of the glutinous rice cake is also the end of the sacrifice ... The corpse is also a sacrifice of ghosts and gods. Keisuke also. You can observe politics ... it's because of the corpse, you and Qing are married. Jun qi, the doctor is six people. I am also a minister. When the doctor starts, there are eight people. Cheap and expensive. Scholars, each with its own, Chen Yutang, hundreds of officials into the thorough. In addition to the above, it is also. ..... "These discourses, to sum up, are that after offering sacrifices to the ancestors of heaven and earth ghosts and gods, people eat the leftovers of the first class one by one in the order of seniority. What do you mean "roe"? The ancients explained: "After eating, it is called" baked bread ",or" After eating, it is called "baked bread", or "After offering sacrifices to the god of food, it is called" baked bread ". "Sacrifice has a cake", which is an integral part of the rites of Zhou, intended to make the inferior people remember the kindness of the ancestors and kings of heaven and earth. This etiquette has naturally faded and disappeared in most parts of China, but it is still quite intact in Qishan, the place where Zhou people settled and prospered, and has become a historical phenomenon like a living fossil.

I'm the first bowl of noodles cooked by Qishan people at home. I usually eat soup, and now I can eat soup in restaurants and farmhouses.

But you have to go back to the pot to catch up with the soup for weddings, funerals and happy events in your hometown and countryside, so you don't eat soup.

There is a legend: it is said that a big dragon died in the sky when the king of Wu cut down or when he was marching. However, because there are many soldiers, there is only one dragon to cook soup and eat. The dragon had to pour the soup and meat with noodles and return the soup to the pot so that all the soldiers could have a taste of it. Unexpectedly, it was unusually delicious. This way of eating was handed down.

In the past, it was also because of the shortage of materials. In order to save money, the soup was returned to the pot.

Now this habit has gradually changed.

Folk village restaurants and so on have stopped returning to the pot, so it is ok for you to drink soup.

I don't know the story, so I will explain it to you from my own experience. We eat noodles with minced meat almost every day during the Spring Festival, from the first day to the fifth day. The soup with noodles with minced meat contains a lot of lard and pepper. It is delicious, but it is greasy and spicy. The sour and spicy noodles with minced meat are delicious, but they are eaten in a small bowl. Usually you don't drink soup, you can eat three or five bowls, but if you even drink soup, it is estimated that two bowls will be full. That's not to mention, you may still feel upset with your stomach because it is too oily, too spicy and too sour, so it's better not to drink or drink less. What's more, when people in Shaanxi eat noodles, they usually drink noodle soup with boiled noodles, and they don't deliberately drink noodle soup.

it may also be related to water shortage. When I was a child, we were still short of water. On holidays, black and white people entertain their relatives and friends with noodles with minced meat. The soup of a group of people needs a big pot, and there is not enough water, and there is no time to change the soup. Basically, it is the soup (it may be a little disgusting, but it is true). Later, the problem of water shortage was solved, and people's ideas changed. They never made soup again, but the habit of not drinking soup remained.

noodles with minced meat in Qishan county are the most disgusting noodles with minced meat. . The noodles with minced meat in Qishan county don't drink soup, because Qishan county was on the plateau before, and there was no water, so we should put the soup that everyone had eaten in the pot again and let other people eat it again. We Shaanxi people call it the surface of the water, which means the surface of the mouth. This disgusting and unsanitary habit is still like this. The local government demanded a change. Every family has a wedding, and if it changes, it will be given to 5 yuan, but as far as I know, no one wants to. Therefore, our noodles with minced meat in Meixian County are the best. If we marry people in Meixian County and Qishan County, we won't eat their noodles with minced meat because it's disgusting.

As an authentic Qishan person, seeing so many people being misled by comments, I feel it necessary to clarify a few points. 1. Because our motherland has a vast territory and diverse climate types, each region has its own unique customs and human history. Please respect each other. After all, no one wants their hometown to be reviled by others. Please also use civilized language, not personal attacks. Let's solve the doubts for everyone! 2. Qishan noodles with minced meat are also called pleasant noodles, and our family members eat noodles with minced meat soup back to the pot, not because we are short of water, but because we eat deep groundwater much better than urban tap water; I'm not afraid of spending money. It doesn't cost much to make a pot of soup with minced meat. The reason why I want to eat it like this is entirely due to customs and culture. At the end of the article, there are relevant introductions that you can go and see if you are interested. 3. Worried about unsanitary, first of all, elderly people and patients who eat noodles at the table will not go. Although the soup returns to the pot, the soup pot has been boiling. You don't like it and no one forces you to eat, so you don't have to be so nervous. As for those who open their mouths and swear, please respect our custom. What would you do if someone said that about your hometown? 4. The characteristics of Qishan noodles with minced meat: soup, fried (high temperature), thin and prosperous (the most important material of noodles with minced meat is Qishan meat, which is oily, and prosperous is oily, indicating that the materials are sufficient); Taste: sour, spicy and fragrant. What we want to explain here is sour and spicy. The sour comes from the grain vinegar brewed by Qishan people themselves, also called Qishan balsamic vinegar. The sour and fragrant flavor will not be reduced even if it is boiled for many times, which is incomparable to other vinegars. The spicy taste comes from the oily pungent seeds. You can check what it is. Spicy and soft are not irritating; Noodles: thin, strong and shiny. Only when the noodles are thin can they be tasted. When the noodles are chewed, the noodles taste good. It seems that a bowl of noodles is actually very particular. 5. If you are a food lover, Qishan noodles with minced meat won't let you down, provided that you must come to Qishan to eat the real noodles with minced meat, or a friend from Qishan will do it in person. Qishan has many snacks and a long history and culture, so you must come to glad you came. Qishan is Guxiqi, the birthplace of Zhou culture. If nothing else, you must know the Duke of Zhou. Zhouyi culture also comes from this place, and most of the stories in the list of deities also happen here. Most people in Qishan brew vinegar by themselves, and worship Jiang Ziya as the god of vinegar. Qishan is also the ancient battlefield of the Three Kingdoms, and the allusion to the secret crossing of Chencang in Ming Xiu Road comes from here. Zhuge Liang also died of illness from overwork in Wuzhangyuan, Qishan! 6. The historical origin of Qishan's noodles with minced meat In ancient times, Zhou people moved from the tapir (b Ρ n) (now Binxian and Xunyi in Shaanxi Province) to Qiyuan (now Qishan County in Baoji, Shaanxi Province) and thrived on the Weihe River and Beiyuan. After the Weihe River, there was a dragon as a disaster. After three years of drought, the people were in dire straits. Zhou clan people could not bear to leave their homeland which had been developed for generations, and fought back. The dragon was killed on the seventh day of the Great War. Hungry people killed the dragon and ate it collectively to celebrate the victory, which made them feel delicious. So when celebrating this victory in the future, pigs were used instead of dragons and noodles to eat collectively. Later, it was extended to other festivals and sacrifices. This kind of noodles with minced meat has gradually spread, and its practice has been developed gradually. It is said that Mr. Li Xinru of Qishan Cultural Center also specially wrote a pamphlet entitled "God's Food for Qishan Noodles with Dishes". According to his textual research, the noodles with minced meat originated from the "finishing ceremony" of the body sacrifice system in the Zhou Dynasty, that is, the gods and ancestors were respected first, and the rest were your turn, and finally the ordinary people. This custom has existed in Qishan for a long time. No matter who holds weddings and funerals, the first bowl of noodles with minced meat will not be served first, but the younger generation will take it out and splash the soup twice, symbolizing the sacrifice to the gods and the earth. The rest of the soup will be called "Fu Bazi" and thrown at the ancestral tablet in the main hall, and then the meal will be served in order of generation and status. You can't throw out the soup left over from eating noodles in the past, but you have to return it to the pot. That is, the meaning of the word "Yu Yu" is taken. Noodles with minced meat are a light meal to entertain guests in Qishan and Guanzhong areas. When a new wife goes to the door, a child's birthday and an old man's birthday, they are usually served with noodles with minced meat. It is said that the noodles with minced meat originated from the "longevity noodles" of Tang Dynasty. Noodles with minced meat developed and changed on the basis of "longevity noodles" in the Tang Dynasty. The Miscellaneous Notes of Jue Jue Liao said: "There are many soup cakes on Tang people's birthdays, which are the birthday noodles for the royal family and national relatives to celebrate their birthdays. People in the world are also called' longevity noodles'." Liu Yuxi, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, said in a poem, "I am a guest, eating soup cakes." Foods such as noodles were called "soup cakes" in the Tang Dynasty. The "soup cake" mentioned in Liu's poems is "long-lived noodles". It was a good place to entertain guests in the Tang Dynasty. According to legend, when Su Dongpo was an official in Shaanxi, he especially liked this kind of noodles and wrote a poem praising it: "I want to be a soup cake customer, but I am worried about writing a book by mistake." According to historical facts, the meat of Sao Zi appeared in the Northern Song Dynasty, and there were shops specializing in processing and selling the meat of Sao Zi recorded in Dream Liang Lu. However, it is still unknown whether there was a "face of shame" at that time. In the Ming Dynasty, Gao Lian wrote down the method of noodles with minced meat in Eight Notes on Zunsheng, so it can be said with certainty that noodles with minced meat had been published at least before Gao Lian wrote this book. Noodles with minced meat are worth a lot in Shaanxi. In addition to following the custom of "longevity noodles" in the Tang Dynasty, such as eating on birthdays, you should treat guests with it every time you have a wedding, funeral or holiday.

Qishan noodles with minced meat also drink soup, which means that you are full and don't add any more noodles. There is only one soup of Qishan noodles with minced meat. If you don't drink soup, you can always add noodles until you are full, and then you can drink soup. I am not from Qishan, and that's all I know, but I have been to Qishan and have eaten Qishan noodles with minced meat there. I didn't know it for the first time. I drank the soup and later learned.

Many people have eaten Qishan noodles with minced meat, and everyone thinks it's delicious, but few people talk about the authentic way of eating Qishan noodles with minced meat.

In fact, the local people in Qishan have a series of common-sense rules for eating noodles with minced meat: they only eat noodles and don't drink soup, but the leftover soup is never treated as waste soup, and it should be taken back to the kitchen and poured into the original soup pot, where it will continue to be heated, processed and replenished, and it will cycle back and forth between the cupboards again and again. At this banquet, VIPs and elders should be seated on the table and receive special respect. If they don't move chopsticks, the younger generation will have to hold back their appetite for a while. The leftover soup of distinguished guests and elders is called "Fubazi", which should be received repeatedly by everyone. It is said that this habit was inherited from the Zhou Dynasty, that is, when the court held large-scale sacrificial ceremonies and commemorative activities, it was necessary to enjoy the food in turn according to the status, and distribute the food to all the people present, but in order and level, taking turns in turn.

The origin of the so-called "simmered soup" begins with the blessing of the elders and distinguished guests. In fact, before the elders and distinguished guests move chopsticks, they must worship God and "eat".

local residents in Qishan, no matter who's wedding or funeral, entertain guests or hold a family dinner on holidays, the first bowl of noodles with minced meat must not be served, but should be taken out to splash soup. The errand of splashing soup is often a child's business. First, the person who holds the spoon pours the soup on the first bowl of noodles, and gives it to the soup splashing person, who pours it in front of the stove once, to worship the kitchen master, who is said to be the god in charge of eating; The second time, the center of the yard was splashed once to worship the gods; For the third time, the soup was poured on both sides outside the gate once, honoring God. This means that the gods of the kitchen world have come to "Fubazi". Finally, going back to the building to pour soup on the memorial tablet of the ancestors is to give the' Fu Bazi' of heaven and earth to the ancestors. After these ceremonial ceremonies are completed, the banquet can only be served, and the "Fu Bazi" of the elderly and VIPs can begin to circulate, and everyone takes turns to eat enthusiastically.

This soup-splashing custom is also a sacrifice and peace in the Zhou Dynasty.