Almost all foods that are proud of the tongue in the south of the Yangtze River have a dry dragon inside. The cat's ear is no exception: I went down to the south of the Yangtze River, and I was hungry when I swam to the West Lake. There was no rolling pin on the boat, and a little girl mixed water and flour on the boat and squeezed it into the shape of a cat's ear ... "I hate this kind of bridge most. The rich history of all kinds of food is depicted by this vulgar bridge. The history of Maoerduo seems to have disappeared, so we might as well search for it.

Cat's ear is a kind of traditional pasta, which is named after its shape. In northern pasta areas such as Shanxi and Shaanxi, cat's ear is only one of the exhausted flour making techniques, which is similar to pulled noodles, but more refined. The southernmost traditional distribution of cat ears is in Hangzhou, and it is the most famous cat ear in China.

Hangzhou is located in the rice-growing area south of Huaihe River, but the cat's ears are pasta. Connecting with history, we can get some clues about the origin of Hangzhou's cat's ears. Song Shi Nan Du transplanted a great deal of food and drink from the north to Hangzhou, especially pasta, which originated from the north to Zhejiang, blended with the top local ingredients, and was improved into a popular but high-quality food: shrimp, ham, mushrooms, scallops, bamboo shoots, Shaoxing wine, etc. were used as cooking ingredients, and except flour, the main, auxiliary and seasoning were all taken from Zhejiang.

Yellow rice wine produced in Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province and ham produced in Jinhua represent the pinnacle of China's two kinds of diet making techniques. Shaoxing's yellow rice wine, as early as the Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, Shaoxing's wine had appeared in the poems of the gentry such as Emperor Liang Yuan and Ji Han, and in the Northern Song Dynasty, Shaoxing's "Penglai Spring", "Ruiluchun" and "Spring in the Hall" became famous. At the State Banquet of the White House in 215, Shaoxing rice wine was poured in the cup. Jinhua's ham appeared as late as the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty. In the Tang Dynasty, in Ningbo, which is near Jinhua, Chen Zangqi wrote "Herbal Supplement": "Ham produced in Jinhua is the best". By the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, Jinhua ham had flourished, and by the Ming Dynasty, Jinhua ham was clearly listed as a tribute. Shaoxing in the east of Zhejiang and Jinhua in the middle of Zhejiang transported these high-quality ingredients to Hangzhou, the imperial capital at that time, after the southern crossing of Song Dynasty. Lishui, located in the south of Zhejiang Province, is the first ecological city in China. Under the subtropical monsoon climate, mushrooms grow slowly in the primitive trees on the mountain plateau, and the fragrance of the years is precipitated in this high-grade food. Lishui is the producing area of high-quality wild mushrooms, and it is also the origin of artificial cultivation technology of mushrooms in the world. In 129, He Lian recorded the cultivation method of mushrooms in Longquan County Annals in the second year of Jiading in the Southern Song Dynasty, indicating that driven by the market, mushrooms have changed from wild picking to artificial cultivation. In the next 8 years, due to the barrier between Lishui and the mountains, this ingredient was extremely precious and was exclusively used in high-end hotels. Until nearly 3 years, the price dropped sharply. The scallops produced in Fenghua, Ningbo, East Zhejiang, grow fat and fresh in the deep and quiet bay of Tiantai Mountain, and were listed as tributes in the name of "Jiangyan Column" in the Northern Song Dynasty.