(Editor’s note: This article is an old work by food producer Chen Xiaoqing. The “last year” mentioned in the article refers to 2006. This article is a cultural, travel and food essay that Wugui personally recognizes, and I am not intentional. Please mention the name "Chen Xiaoqing" in the title, let's see how many readers can discern and discover this delicious and delicious article)

Speaking of Lingnan food, I went to Jiangmen in February last year. deep impression.

That time I was participating in a topic selection demonstration for a program. Kaiping under Jiangmen has more than 1,800 rural buildings from the early Republic of China - watchtowers. We accompanied the director of this film - I was in front. The famous drunkard Wei mentioned - come here to see the exterior scenes. I had plenty of time, and my delicious little heart began to beat hard, so I sent a text message to Mr. Shen who still lives in Guangzhou: "You are in Jiangmen, a place known locally as gangmen. Please treat me with food and drink." Guide." Five minutes later, Boss Shen called back: "Let's eat eel rice first, and then we'll have Gujing roast goose." He also attached the address.

There must always be a few friends like this in your life. No matter you are at a crossroads in life or food, or hesitating, they will tell you how to turn and how to move forward. Boss Shen has done things like this, leading the way for the imperial army, several times, and every time he was very successful. Boss Shen, you are the lighthouse, shining on the big and small restaurants before dawn.

Eel rice is the most famous food in Jiangmen. It can rival Guangzhou’s claypot rice, Guilin’s rice noodles, Chengdu’s Chao Shou, and Chongqing’s small noodles. There won’t be many comments here. What really impresses me is Gujing Town. That meal of roast goose. Gujing Town is at the southern end of Xinhui. In addition to the famous Yamen Ancient Fort and the former residence of Liang Qichao, Xinhui is the most famous for Gujing Roast Goose. Countless people who have done food research have identified this place as the birthplace of Sham Tseng Roast Goose in Hong Kong. The population of Siyi in Jiangmen has been overseas for hundreds of years. Therefore, local food has become the mainstream of Hong Kong people's diet.

The owner of the hotel where the roast goose is served is the deputy secretary of the party committee of Gujing Town, surnamed Chen, so the roast goose here is also called the secretary’s roast goose. Secretary Chen doesn’t speak Mandarin well, especially when it comes to Beijing’s roast duck. Back then, someone once bought a soft-packed Quanjude duck from Beijing and brought it back. Secretary Chen chopped it into pieces and drank it, which made him full of infinite sympathy for the people of Beijing. —Secretary Chen was so excited that he couldn't organize the Chinese characters: "Our roast goose... is never allowed... to be left for a long time... before being sold to customers. If the roast goose... is not sold after four hours... Go out and throw it into...the swill bucket." As soon as he finished speaking, the secretary served the roasted goose, which immediately stunned all three of our guests. The goose skin was thin and crispy, and the goose meat was tender and juicy. Eating until tears flowed down his face. I even had a smile on my face as I hummed the theme song of "Blood Doubt". Thank you, Boss Shen!

This restaurant also has a very unique staple food (the name seems to be called Four Treasures Rice?), which is made of glutinous rice soaked in soy sauce water, taken out after a day, and stir-fried gently with lard over low heat. ——The rare thing is that during the stir-frying process, you have to constantly add water with a small spoon and cover it. This is obviously a manual job. After 20 minutes, a pot of crystal clear brown glutinous rice will be out of the pot. When this staple dish was served, 90% of people regretted it because they were too full to eat anything. On the other hand, my family, Lele, moved my index finger and ate happily. I kept thinking about how to dress the rice. I won’t tell you how many bowls I ate, so as not to scare you...

This year’s New Year’s Day is my second time in Jiangmen. "Closing footage" for Lao Wei's documentary. The documentary about the watchtowers was later put into production by "Discovery". Wei worked very hard. The seven-episode film took a full year, of which three months were spent living in Jiangmen. In order to commend his hard work, he decided to hold a closing ceremony in Gangmen. As I was somewhat related to the film, I became a guest at the closing ceremony.

Over the past year, Lao Wei has thoroughly studied the Diaolou, an architectural freak that combines Chinese and Western styles. In the words of local leaders, he is now a veritable "diaolou citizen". Wei Diao Min was very familiar with the local tourism and cultural relics departments, and had a bunch of friends similar to Diao Xiaosan. As a result, we, a group of people attending the mirror sealing ceremony, spent every day in Kaiping (where the Diaolou are concentrated, one hour away from Jiangmen). I drink revolutionary wine every day, and with the large number of people accompanying me, I eat on the air-conditioned carpet and turntable table every day.

When the reception level is high, you will not be able to eat delicious food. This is my experience accumulated over the years.

There is only half a day left in Jiangmen, to be precise, only one lunch. Immediately sent a text message to Boss Shen: "I'm in Jiangmen again, time is tight, please guide me as soon as possible." Now, Lao Shen has been living in Shanghai, and is increasingly influenced by the colonial food culture. Although the magazine he runs is called "World Food", It is also very niche and very high-end. Half an hour later, Lao Shen called back: "Just eat grass worms." So we found a restaurant that had fresh grass worm baked eggs.

Although I heard Chua Lam say that many Hong Kong people are willing to make a special trip back to the Pearl River Delta just to eat grass worms, but at this time, we have been tortured by running around for days and have no appetite. This trip, Shenzhen-Kaiping-Jiangmen-Guangzhou, alas, truly "draws a circle on the South China Sea of ??China." When the baked eggs came up, except that the bugs inside felt fluffy and a bit gritty, there was no delicious response to the taste.

Due to frequent traffic jams on the highway, after eating the bugs, I hurried to Guangzhou. When I arrived at the airport, I realized that there were still four hours before departure. It was boring.

Then I remembered what my guiding light, Mr. Shen, said, the prerequisite for all good food is hunger and calmness.

Send another text message to Lao Shen! "Is there any food guide at the new Baiyun Airport, which is known as the No. 1 airport in Asia?" This time, Old Shen texted back very quickly: "Isn't it too unpopular? Boss!"