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Italy? Pastoral food and oil taster in Veneto [knowledge and food]
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Veneto Region and Venice (Ⅱ)

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In the picturesque village of Veneto, there are wild artichokes (naked artichokes, the origin of coastal areas in China), Padua chicken famous for its beautiful feathers and olive oil that nourishes the Italian nation.

"Knowledge Gourmet" launched a series of special topics on "Italy", taking Italian cuisine as the theme, and enjoying Italian cooking cuisine, food culture and spiritual soul together. ...

In the picturesque countryside, wild herbs such as asparagus, hops and artichokes are growing wildly. ...

Veneto's pastoral scenery

In Veneto, outside Venice, there is a harmonious, hardworking and joyful pastoral atmosphere everywhere, and small and elegant cities are scattered among the green hills. The classical luxury manor villa built by the famous architect Palladio in16th century stands in the green fields of the countryside.

Goethe once praised this poetic landscape. Looking around, the magnificent scenery is beautiful. This Fiona Fang-mile garden sits quietly at the foot of majestic mountains and steep cliffs. Rows of vines are planted between sorghum and corn in fertile fields; Grape leaves hang down from the lush trees as if hanging in the air. ...

globe artichoke

Most of Veneto's ingredients come from agriculture. In cities from Padua to Verona, people mainly eat vegetables and dried fish (naked food note: stewed cod with milk in Vicenza is a classic dried fish dish), but rarely eat fresh fish. Wild local herbs such as asparagus, hops and artichokes are the most popular in the market.

Artichokes can be picked in five different ways. When it is immature, it is called a canary and can be dipped in olive oil with salt and pepper or fried with bread flour. In order to promote the growth and development of flower buds, the secondary main branch buds are picked during the second picking, so it is called castraure); ; These spring-picked buds are cooked with garlic and oil or wrapped in batter and fried. The third harvest is the really mature artichoke, and its cooking methods are varied. After cutting off the upper part, eat only the fourth part at the bottom, usually by boiling, roasting or frying. The fifth picking refers to picking the whole thistle flower for viewing.

The artichoke growing in Veneto is the most famous artichoke on the island of San Iraz Mo. The real artichokes in St. Erasmus can only be bought in the market in Riotteau district, and can only be eaten in several excellent restaurants in Venice (note for naked food: basically, these restaurants have to be booked in advance). On the really castrated artichoke box, the logo of Consozio del Calcio violette to Di S Iiramo is printed.

Artichoke is an important ingredient in Veneto, but unlike Venice, even the same ingredient has different cooking methods and eating habits. For example, in the inland area of Veneto, Risi e Bisi (rice with tender peas) is a famous dish. However, Venetians prefer seafood braised rice in their daily life. Only on April 25th every year, during the Spring Festival in St. Kyle's, do they eat pea stew and castrate artichokes.

Padova chicken

In other parts of Veneto, stew ingredients are varied, including pumpkin, asparagus, frog legs ... and eels and waterfowl produced in low-lying swamp areas. Most notably, giacomo Tandi Daloqio, a doctor and astronomer from Ma Erkai, introduced Galina Padovana from Poland in the 4th century A.D./KLOC-0. This kind of bird kept in the garden is famous for its beauty. It has long decorative feathers, huge fleshy pendulum, black, white, silver, gold and other colors, and is very popular in Ma Erkai.

According to the description in ancient recipes, the cooking method of Padua chicken is: first, put herbs into the abdomen of the chicken, and then wrap the whole chicken in the bladder of a cow or a pig. In order to prevent the wrapped bladder from exploding after heating, a small mouth will be opened in advance to let the air escape, and then boiled with boiling water. Note on naked food: This cooking method is called bamboo tube method, and the tube can be sausage or hollow bamboo tube, which is mainly used for ventilation.

Oil taster

Whether it's Venice or Veneto, olive oil is the most indispensable food on the Italian table, so we have to talk about Italian oil sommeliers. In 1994, Associazione Nazionale Cittadell' Olio is responsible for nominating olive oil tasters to ensure that olive oil regarded as an edible brand in Italy can maintain its spotless reputation. In the chambers of commerce in Genoa, savona, Impey and Spoleto, a team of experts composed of sommeliers is responsible for controlling the quality of olive oil.

These professional oil tasters who have been trained for many years do not touch alcohol, smoke or eat spicy food on weekdays. During the olive harvest, they will taste the products of each oil mill once a week and judge the three main shortcomings of freshly squeezed olive oil: musty smell, alcoholic smell and overheating. The so-called wine smell means that after cleaning the container with alcohol or vinegar, the oil is poured in without proper drying treatment, thus leaving a wine smell. Overheating means that olives will deteriorate, rot and heat up if they are not treated immediately after harvest, so they have a rancid smell.

In the past, people were busy making money to support their families. They paid more attention to the output of olive oil than the quality. But overall, the quality of Italian olive oil is still satisfactory. At present, the standards for tasting olive oil are different from those in the past, and now oil tasters will try their best to protect their perfect sensitivity and sensitivity.

Classification of modern olive oil

According to purity, there are the following kinds of olive oil:

First, virgin olive oil (naked food note: cold pressing by physical methods to avoid overheating affecting the quality of olive oil)

Contains the following subcategories:

Refined olive oil: acidity ≤0.5%

Extra virgin olive oil: acidity ≤ 1%,

Virgin olive oil: acidity ≤2%.

Ordinary virgin olive oil: acidity ≤3.3%

Low-grade virgin olive oil: acidity 3.3%

2. Refined olive oil is mixed with other virgin olive oil except low-grade virgin olive oil, and the acidity of olive oil is ≤1.5%;

3. Olive residue: extracting the worst quality olive oil from olive residue with solvent;

4. Refined olive residue: Refined olive residue extracted from olive residue by refining method and solvent, with acidity less than or equal to 0.5%.

Squeezing and buying olive oil

In fact, for decades, the production of olive oil was only the first squeezing. Because all the oil that can be fried in olives is fried at one time under the pressure of 450 atmospheres, there is no so-called secondary pressurization or secondary pressing at all. At present, cold pressing or cold pressing only heats olive oil to no more than 27℃. In fact, the upper limit of heating temperature of 60 can only be reached when the secondary raw materials are treated.

Even when you buy Italian olive oil abroad, you need to pay special attention to an olive oil marked "Italian packaging". The so-called Italian packaging here actually refers to the olive oil imported from Morocco, Tunisia, Turkey or Spain, which is transported by large ships to ports such as Genoa, Impey, Leah and Bari in Italy. These virgin olive oil, secondary oil and olive residue came from abroad ... After arriving at the Italian port, they were diluted, mixed or refined, bottled and sold, marked with the words "Italian packaging", and the price immediately doubled.

Physiological benefits and spiritual sustenance

Olive oil can be found everywhere on consumers' dining tables, Italian recipes and cooking books. The widespread use of olive oil should be traced back to the dietary tradition respected by Italians. Olive oil is considered to improve health, prevent diseases and prolong life.

According to the literature, the content of polyphenols in Italian olive oil is 1%, which is much higher than 0.5% in other producing areas. Polyphenols can prevent cancer and myocardial infarction, while high-grade Italian olive oil can not only prevent gallstones, reduce cardiovascular diseases, but also avoid arteriosclerosis (naked food note: because of unsaturated fatty acids). Olive oil is rich in triglycerides, palmitoyl glycerides, myricetin, vitamin A and vitamin E, and it also helps to prevent rickets. According to scientific research, extra virgin olive oil is regarded as a functional food (naked food note: food that can reduce the risk of disease) and also as a food with health care function for physiological functions.

Therefore, in the collective imagination of Italians, olive oil is regarded as a natural juice that can really bring vitality and nourish the whole nation, which is directly related to the spiritual foundation of life; This spiritual sustenance makes Italian olive oil the holy oil of religion. At lunch time, Italians always put a bottle of olive oil on the table, which is considered as the source of immortality.