Green Food Dongxiang Mutton
After the Double Ninth Festival, walking on the streets and alleys of Zhenjiang, it is easy to smell the strong aroma. Everyone familiar with it knows that this is The taste of Dongxiang mutton. In the autumn and winter every year, eating mutton and drinking mutton soup are a major food fashion for Zhenjiang people. Star-rated hotels and roadside stalls have launched their own Dongxiang mutton feasts: braised mutton, stir-fried haggis, soaked in Jingjiang The mutton soup with navel...attracts countless diners to enjoy the "sheep" meat.
Dongxiang mutton is a special flavor of Zhenjiang and is abundant in Dalu Town, Yaoqiao Town and Dagang area of ??Dantu District, Zhenjiang City. This area is located in the east of Zhenjiang City and is called "Dongxiang". The most famous place for cooking Dongxiang mutton is Ruli, which is now part of Yaoqiao Town. This small market town was originally named Zhujiawu. Legend has it that it was given its current name by Emperor Qianlong. The reason why Qianlong gave the name is exactly It originates from Dongxiang mutton.
When Emperor Qianlong went to the south of the Yangtze River, he heard that the mutton in the Zhujiawei area of ??Zhenjiang was extremely delicious, so he sent someone to buy it. Who knew that the purchaser was greedy and lustful. When he was buying mutton in Zhujiawei, he molested a village girl and was eventually beaten to death by the local villagers. After learning about this, Qianlong was furious and decided to go incognito to find out what was going on in order to make the final decision on punishment. However, after arriving at Zhujiaxu, the emperor found that all the locals, regardless of gender, old or young, were knowledgeable and courteous, so he gave them the name "Ruli".
Today, the largest restaurant selling Dongxiang mutton is Ruli Restaurant in Zhenjiang City. According to Mr. Wang Jia, the owner of the store, Dongxiang mutton in the traditional sense is braised mutton. Its meat is tender, fat but not greasy, and can nourish the stomach and replenish deficiency. Dongxiang mutton is very particular from the selection of ingredients to the cooking and processing of the mutton (bean stalks are cooked on a slow fire). Because the main ingredient is local goats from that year, and these goats grew up eating grass on fields, banks, and hills, Dongxiang mutton can be called "green food."
With the changes in people’s dietary tastes and the development of mutton operations, Dongxiang mutton has not only been optimized in cooking methods, but also expanded in cuisine content. “Dongxiang mutton” has evolved from the original Braised mutton has developed into today's whole lamb banquet, and its "Dongxiang" brand has been extended. However, since it is difficult to achieve quantitative breakthroughs in the breeding of local goats, the main ingredient of Dongxiang mutton, and in fact, large-scale breeding will also damage the ecological environment, so the final development of Dongxiang mutton is still limited by certain conditions.
“Weird” pot-covered noodles
When talking about Zhenjiang’s “local specialties”, we can’t help but talk about Zhenjiang’s pot-covered noodles. As we all know, there are "three strange things" in Zhenjiang. The so-called "balsamic vinegar is not bad, the meat is not used as a dish, and the lid is cooked inside the noodle pot."
Zhenjiang Pot Noodles, also known as Huo Noodles, are well-known in Zhenjiang and probably also famous throughout the country. The method is not complicated: knead the flour and roll it into thin slices, then cut it finely with a knife, put it in the pot with the lid and cook it, take it out and put it into a bowl with the seasoning. The characteristics of pot noodles are that they have the right amount of softness and hardness, and good flexibility, making them suitable for people of all ages. However, it is this uncomplicated method of cooking noodles that is hailed as a pioneering work of Zhenjiang people in their culinary skills.
There are many folk theories about the origin of pot noodles. There are allusions about Qianlong's visit to the south of the Yangtze River, the story of Zhang's sister-in-law's pot cover noodle shop, and the legend of a husband and wife teaming up to build hot pot noodles... Here is another story: there is a pair of siblings who depend on each other for life. My younger brother is sick and has a bad taste. My sister feeds him noodles every day, but my younger brother always says the noodles are hard. So, my sister tried to roll out the thin noodles, put the dough on the chopping board, used a bamboo pole, and sat on it to press the dough and dance, from left to right, and then from right to left, pressing the dough thinly, and then Shave into thin noodles.
My sister put the noodles into the pot and wanted to add some green garlic. When she was in a hurry, she put the small pot lid on the soup pot next to it into the big pot. Unexpectedly, this kind of noodles made my brother eat more and more delicious noodles. It turns out that using a small pot to cover the surroundings allows for ventilation, so that the noodles are less likely to rot, have chewy texture, and taste better. Since then, Zhenjiang’s pot noodles have become famous, and many noodle shops selling pot noodles have appeared in the streets.
Guo Ge Noodles are not a big deal in the Zhenjiang market. There are countless "authentic" and "inauthentic" noodle shops in the city, and almost every shop is packed with customers all day long. However, when Guomei Noodles competes in the catering market in other cities, few achieve great success. Relevant experts believe that in addition to the differences in tastes of people from different places, the lack of production standards for pot noodles is also a major reason.
The "Fighted" Duck Blood Vermicelli Soup
I am afraid no one doubts that duck blood vermicelli soup is a snack in Zhenjiang; but duck blood vermicelli soup is designated as Zhenjiang. The "local specialties" may cause controversy. In recent years, the debate over whether the "original" duck blood vermicelli soup is from Zhenjiang or Nanjing has become popular online and among the public. The argument for saying that duck blood vermicelli soup "is from Nanjing" is that "Jinling duck blood vermicelli soup" is famous and has far outstripped the Nanjing market; the argument for saying that duck blood vermicelli soup "is from Zhenjiang" is that, Anyone who has eaten duck blood vermicelli soup from both places will feel that the taste of "Jinling duck blood vermicelli soup" is far worse than that of "Zhenjiang".
Regardless of who the "original" is, there is no doubt about one thing: the market status of Zhenjiang duck blood vermicelli soup is absolutely popular, and its "fans" include all people, men, women, old and young.
In Zhenjiang, you can encounter duck blood vermicelli shops no matter whether you are crossing the street or walking through alleys all year round. Some of these duck blood vermicelli shops have a facade, some are just small stalls, and the same ones can be Business is booming and the fragrance is overflowing. Among these duck blood vermicelli shops, Sister-in-Law Duck Blood Vermicelli Shop, Mother and Daughter Duck Blood Vermicelli Shop, and Ma Old Lady Duck Blood Vermicelli are the best.
Zhenjiang’s duck blood vermicelli soup has also been introduced to other cities. A friend of the author has seen more than one Zhenjiang duck blood vermicelli shop in downtown Taizhou, and after trying it, it really has Zhenjiang flavor. When I went up to inquire about it, I found that some were opened by Zhenjiang people, and some were run by local people. However, no matter what, "Zhenjiang Duck Blood Fans" can be regarded as having left Zhenjiang in terms of products and brands.
The vermicelli of Zhenjiang duck blood vermicelli soup is lubricated, the duck blood is fresh and tender, and the taste is fresh and fragrant. At 3 yuan a bowl, it is cheap and good, and is widely loved by the people. Duck blood vermicelli soup is also very simple and convenient to make. You only need to put the vermicelli in a small bamboo basket, blanch it in boiling duck blood soup, pour the vermicelli and duck blood soup into a bowl, and then add duck intestines and duck blood soup. Just liver, chopped green onion, coriander and seasonings. Danyang Fengtan wine made Guan Yu blush
Among Zhenjiang's local specialties, Danyang Fengtan wine is famous for its "light taste, dew on flowers, and color like spring in a cave".
The brewing process of Fengtan Liquor is extremely exquisite. It uses glutinous rice as raw material and wheat koji as saccharification and fermentation agent. When the sugar content of the fermented fermented grains reaches its peak, add Xiaoqu rice wine with a temperature of over 50%, seal the mouth of the vat immediately, and after curing the fermented fermented grains for a certain period of time, pump out 60% of the clean water and press it, then mix it in proportion and pour it into the jar, seal it tightly and store it for 2-3 years. . After brewing, the wine will have a brown-red color, a mellow and fragrant aroma, and a fresh and sweet taste. The wine has a temperature of more than 14 degrees, making it the top grade rice wine. In 1984, Danyang Fengtan Liquor won the National Silver Award and ranked first among the national sweet rice wines.
Like most local products, the origin of Danyang Fengtan Liquor is closely connected with many legends and anecdotes. It is said that during the Three Kingdoms period, Zhang Fei led his troops through Zhenjiang Prefecture and sent people to sell wine in a hotel. Unexpectedly, Jiajia Hotel only sells vegetables and not wine. The policeman was confused and asked the shopkeeper where to buy wine. The shopkeeper smiled and said: "There is a well on the street, and fine wine is flowing from the well. If the guests want to drink, they can help themselves without paying a penny." The officer reported to Zhang Fei, and Zhang Fei shouted "Weird, weird". After saying this, he went straight to the well and uncovered the When I opened the manhole cover, the aroma of wine really hit my nose, and it lived up to its reputation. It drooled Zhang Fei, who was a heavy drinker, and ordered his subordinates to raise their glasses and drink.
At this time, Guan Yu's troops arrived and saw that Zhang Fei's subordinates were all drunk and talking incoherently. They blamed Zhang Fei for ignoring military discipline. At the same time, I blame the shop owner for not rewarding the army like this. The shopkeeper told me that there was fine wine in the well. Guan Yu was doubtful and went to Saijing to investigate in person. Unexpectedly, as soon as he opened the manhole cover, the smell of alcohol rushed up, and Guan Yu became red-faced. Guan Yu thought, if all the soldiers came here to drink heavily, wouldn't they have missed the military situation? So he raised the Qinglong Yanyue Sword and split open the wine well. Wine gushed out like a spring, and the street was filled with wine. This street is still called Jiuhai Street. The wine flowing from the wine well flows along the canal to Danyang. Every household in Danyang seals the wine in jars. During festivals, auspicious weddings, or when children are born and drink "three dynasties wine", they take out the wine to entertain relatives and friends. This has become a tradition. Today’s Danyang sealed vat wine.
Fengtan wine is a sweet yellow rice wine, and yellow rice wine is a unique type of wine in China. Together with wine and beer, it is also known as the three major ancient wines in the world. While the latter two wines have become mainstream products in the current wine market, the market position of rice wine seems quite embarrassing. Although Danyang Fengtan Liquor is famous, the market for related products needs to be vigorously developed.
Small ground sesame oil is fragrant all over the world
Zhenjiang small ground sesame oil has long been fragrant all over the world because of its clear and transparent quality, pure quality and beautiful color. This product selects fine materials, pays attention to craftsmanship, uses traditional stone grinding, and undergoes multiple processes such as impurity removal, washing, steaming, frying, grinding, sedimentation, and filtration. The sesame oil produced has repeatedly ranked first in relevant sesame oil quality evaluations. . In March 1985, Zhenjiang Xiaomo Sesame Oil won the gold medal from the International Gastronomy Society and the International Council on Travel and Tourism.
Among the local specialties of Zhenjiang, small-ground sesame oil may be one of the best-developed products in the market. Today, there are more than 10 brands of small-ground sesame oil produced in Zhenjiang from nearly 10 manufacturers, among which the most popular ones are Well-known ones include Ganlu brand sesame oil from Zhenjiang Nissin Condiment Company and Fuyu brand sesame oil from Zhenjiang Fuyu Sesame Oil Co., Ltd. Xiaomo sesame oil products are exported to more than 20 countries and regions including the United Kingdom and the United States, and are very popular among domestic and foreign users.
When small-scale sesame oil grinding flourished in Zhenjiang in the early years, most of it was produced in handicraft workshops. After traditional handicraft workshops were gradually replaced by oil factories, "authentic" small-ground sesame oil became more common in farmers' markets. "Old Zhenjiang" people all remember that in the corner of the market, there was a simple and clean set of tools for grinding sesame oil, and the small stone mill squeaked loudly in the rich aroma of sesame oil.
As small stone mills withdraw from the stage of history one by one, "authentic" small stone mill sesame oil gradually fades out of our lives. Many "Old Zhenjiang" people will now lament that the famous brand "small ground sesame oil" sold on the market is not manually ground with small stone mills. Although it can produce hundreds of tons and thousands of tons per year, it is really not authentic. However, in fact, it is these sesame oils that have gone out of the "artificial" field, these machine-ground sesame oils that have made sacrificial improvements to the "authentic small-ground" ones, that finally opened up the market for small-ground sesame oil and established the overall brand of Zhenjiang small-ground sesame oil. .
Retaining the "authenticity" and opening up the market are two things that almost all local products cannot have both. Today, more than 10 brands of Zhenjiang Xiaomo sesame oil have been developed. The judgment of sublation and abandonment, the choice between tradition and modernity, may have a reference effect on the development of Zhenjiang's local specialties.
Meat should not be used as food
"Meat should not be used as food". According to legend, a long time ago, a couple opened a small hotel in Zhenjiang City. On New Year's Eve, my wife went to the street and bought back a pack of saltpeter for making firecrackers, and put it on the pot table. When my husband was pickling pig's trotters, he didn't have enough salt, so he mistakenly put saltpeter on the pig's trotters instead of salt. A few days later, the couple saw that the pickled hooves were red in color and did not dare to eat them. But the fragrant aroma attracted Zhang Guolao, one of the Eight Immortals, who rode a donkey to get off his donkey and enter the shop to taste it. He had a cup of fragrant tea and a plate of meat, and ate it all...
Zhenjiang’s meat is famous again. It's called crystal meat hooves. It has white skin and red flesh, and the marinade is transparent. The pieces are shiny and crystal clear. It's really cute. It's fat but not greasy, crispy and tender. If you dip it in some ginger vinegar, it will have a unique flavor and make the taster feel tender and crispy.
In the past, people in Zhenjiang had a habit of eating meat. They would go to a restaurant in the morning, make a pot of tea, put shredded ginger on a plate, and eat the meat dipped in balsamic vinegar and shredded ginger. Therefore, there is a saying that it is "not suitable for food".
Although Crystal Pork Hobs are available in many restaurants in Zhenjiang, the taste and quality are difficult to distinguish. But it is generally believed that the "Yan Chun" meat dish is the most authentic. Now, Zhenjiang Yanchun Restaurant Co., Ltd. has established its own meat production line. General Manager Wu Rongsheng said that through professional and modern equipment and traditional craftsmanship, high-quality meat with outstanding taste will be dedicated to more consumers. who.
Balamic vinegar is not bad
Vinegar is an acidic condiment, used for cold dishes and cooking dishes. It can not only remove fishy smell and relieve greasiness, but also protect the nutrients in food from being destroyed, adding "color, aroma and taste" to dishes.
Vinegar can relieve fatigue, prevent arteriosclerosis, and has sterilization, health care, beauty and other functions. "Compendium of Materia Medica" records: "Vinegar can reduce swelling and pain, disperse water vapor, kill evil poisons, and regulate various medicines."
Vinegar "is best in Zhenjiang, Jiangsu Province." Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar is unique among many vinegars in my country, with its color, aroma, sourness, alcohol and richness. Take a bite and it will be sour and fresh, fragrant and slightly sweet, not astringent. The longer it is stored, the mellower the taste will be and it will not deteriorate. This is the "balsamic vinegar is not bad" in "Three Strange Ballads".
Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar has a unique geographical environment and unique exquisite craftsmanship. It uses high-quality glutinous rice as the main raw material, uses excellent sour vinegar strains, and undergoes solid layered fermentation, winemaking, fermentation, and vinegar drenching. A large process, more than 40 procedures, which takes more than 70 days to refine, and then go through a certain storage period before it can be released.
Hengshun Group is the birthplace of Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar. For more than 100 years, Hengshun has adhered to the authentic craftsmanship and raw materials of Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar, adhered to the characteristics and flavor of Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar, and is known as "sour but not sour". Astringent, fragrant and slightly sweet, rich in color and delicious in taste, it is well-known at home and abroad. It has won five international gold medals and three national gold medals. It is the only vinegar product in my country that has won international and national double gold medals.
Today's Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar is no longer limited to a single variety. It has developed many kinds of vinegar, such as state banquet vinegar, seafood vinegar, garlic vinegar, dumpling vinegar, ginger vinegar, crab flavor vinegar, spicy vinegar, etc. A series of products with different flavors and functions.
Beautiful crab roe soup dumplings
Zhenjiang’s “crab roe soup dumplings” are famous at home and abroad and are a famous snack. When eating "crab roe soup dumplings", you should "lift it gently, move it slowly, open the window first, and then drink the soup." Don't be afraid of trouble when eating, you have to savor it while eating. The excellent umami flavor slowly emerges from the soup filling. If you swallow it in one mouthful, not only will you not taste the umami flavor, but it will probably burn your tongue.
Zhenjiang’s “crab soup buns” are fresh on the “crab”. Brush the crabs clean, put them into a cage and steam them. After they cool down a bit, pry open the crab cover and take out the crab roe. Use a bamboo skewer to take out the crab meat. Heat the oil, add green onion and minced ginger and cook. Add the crab roe and crab meat and stir-fry. Wait until When the crab roe and crab meat are both orange-yellow, add fresh meat into the filling.
The beauty of Zhenjiang’s “Crab Roe Soup Buns” lies in the “soup”. When cooking, the pork skin is boiled into jelly and then filled with carefully crafted crab meat filling. The stuffing is thick and sticky before being put on the basket, and becomes a delicious soup when steamed. However, the dough for this kind of steamed bun requires great toughness, so mixing the dough should not be ignored. During production, the meticulous chef also kneads each crab roe soup bag with twenty-four patterns, and the mouth of the bag is shaped into the shape of a carp mouth. So people jokingly call it "like a clock when placed on a plate, like a lantern when held on chopsticks".
According to Wu Rongsheng, general manager of Zhenjiang Yanchun Restaurant Co., Ltd., Zhenjiang’s crab roe soup dumplings are different from Jingjiang’s soup dumplings that have emerged in recent years. The two are different in appearance, filling, and taste, and each has its own characteristics.
Featured Jingjiang navel
Jingjiang navel is also called "Vajra navel", so named because its shape resembles the belly button of a clay sculpture of King Kong. The traditional Jingjiang navel has six corners, full rounded corners, and consistent sizes.
Jingjiang Navel uses special flour, peanut oil, white sugar, yeast dough, sodium carbonate, sugar-osmanthus, etc. as raw materials, and is sold in major farmers' markets in our city. According to the old people, it used to cost only a few cents each.
The production of Jingjiang navel includes fermentation, alkali mixing, shaping, baking and other steps.
During fermentation, the temperature must be properly controlled. Overheating will destroy the gluten quality and the fermentation power will be too high, causing the finished product to lose its softness. If it is too cool, the fermentation time will be long, the fermentation power will be insufficient, and the finished product will be less full. When mixing alkali, the amount of alkali solution added depends on the degree of fermentation of the dough and the temperature.
Shaping requires skill. Place the dough on the workbench, pick a small piece with your left hand, and use your right hand to help knead it into a 75-gram round dough. Then use the center of the circle as the intersection point and cut three knives 120° apart to divide the spherical dough into hexagons, with each corner 60° apart. Then use your left finger to gently push the center of the circle to make it bulge. The cutting depth should be appropriate. Generally, it is appropriate to cut the dough into 2/3 of its height.
The finely crafted diamond navel has pores in its cross section, is soft, not loose, has no acid or alkali particles, and has no impurities. The taste is sweet and soft, whether eaten dry or with soup, it is a good product.