The shops selling food account for more than half of the more than 1 buildings painted in Zhang Zeduan's Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival. Meng Yuan's "Dream of Tokyo" recorded nearly 3 kinds of delicious food popular in the Song Dynasty.

According to the notes of the Song people, the time-honored famous shops at that time included Tiexielou Hotel, Cao Popo's Meat Pie, Li Sifen Tea, Lujia Steamed Bun, Zhengjia Youbing Shop, Wanjia Steamed Bread, Shijia Mang Soup, Duanjia Boiled Food and so on. Famous dishes include lion candy, goat's horn and kidney, roasted dumplings, winter moon rabbit, litchi paste, sliced sheep's head, golden belly soup, red silk crystal soup and so on.

Goulan Wasi, teahouses and restaurants, with fragrance everywhere and crowds of diners, were the most lively street customs of that era. It can be seen how much the Song people love to eat. Then, as the national husband of the Great Song Dynasty, Su Dongpo naturally wants to lead the food trend. It must be the best in eating goods.

I once wrote in an article that Dongpo and the ruffian wretch cattle as a kind of snacks, gather people to drink, get drunk, and climb the gate to sing at midnight. Cattle can't be killed in the Song Dynasty. Cattle are the national labor force, so the guy who dares to call Xiao Er to bring me two pounds of beef among the people who eat in restaurants in the Water Margin must not be a good crop. A reader asked me, Dongpo, as a local official, actually mixed with rogues, but also knew the law and slaughtered cattle, acting dissolutely, unlike a strict scholar. I was speechless at the moment. On the contrary, it reminded me of my curiosity and imagination about Po Gong as a diner. So I decided to write a cookbook by Su Dongpo, a senior foodie.

Lu You wrote an article called "Dongpo Eating Soup Cake", which said that Su Shi and Su Zhe were demoted and ate soup cake on the road. Su Zhe found it unpalatable and couldn't eat it. Su Shi finished it in a short time, and said, You are eating so slowly, so why don't you try it carefully?

Soup cakes were food in Song Dynasty. Flour dumplings were sliced and boiled in soup, similar to Daoxiao Noodles today. Ordinary people often eat soup cakes, but officials and scholars eat less. They are meat eaters. Later, Cai Jing, a great traitor, loved quail soup, and quail feathers piled up in his backyard. Pogong enjoys eating every soup cake, which shows that he has a good appetite, loves to eat, and has unlimited taste for simple food.

In Tang poetry and Song poetry, there are people who eat wine as a meal, and there are people who eat sorrow as a meal. The first person who really eats rice as a meal is Po Gong. Where should I start? Let's start when he was born.

Jing You was born in Meishan, Sichuan in the third year. Pepper was not introduced to China in the Song Dynasty, when Sichuanese ate lightly. When Pogong was a child, he ate "three whites". What is "three whites"? It is a bowl of white rice, a dish of white radish and a spoonful of white coarse salt. It can be seen that when he was a child, he didn't have much luck to eat. He could only fill his stomach.

In the sixth year of Jiayou, the 26-year-old Po Gong became an official for the first time, and became a nine-grade sesame official who appraised the affairs in Dali and signed a book for Fengxiang Prefecture. Fengxiang House is in Shaanxi, Pogong is in Fengxiang, and life is full of flavor. This taste is a bit heavy. In a poem, I wrote: There is bear wax in the dragon, and Qin cooks only sheep soup. It means that there is dried bear meat in Gansu and mutton soup in Shaanxi. The former doesn't explain, while the latter explains a little. This delicious food called mutton soup in the Song Dynasty is today's mutton bread in soup.

In the ninth year of Xining, Pogong was in Mizhou, and during the Mid-Autumn Festival, he wrote the first poem "Water Tune Song Tou", which is really good and can be regarded as the finale of Song Ci. The ancients said that the water tune song first appeared in Dongpo, and the rest words were all wasted. Although it was touted too high, Mid-Autumn Festival poetry did not come out. The most brilliant masterpiece of his life is that he finished it with a glass. Look, "When will there be a bright moon? Ask the sky for wine ",and the preface of the word is" Bingchen Mid-Autumn Festival, drinking too much, getting drunk, writing this article and being pregnant ".

It seems that he is a good drinker. Actually, it's not. It's all in till, raising my cup, I asked the bright moon. Po Gong's drinking capacity is definitely not as good as Li Bai's, and he doesn't particularly like drinking. But he loves brewing, including bamboo leaf wine, Bixiang wine, honey wine and crisp wine. Later, he made wine with oranges, boasting that it was delicious. calling friends came to drink it, and his friends had diarrhea as a result.

In the tenth year of Xining, Pogong was in Xuzhou. One year, the Yellow River burst its banks and floods raged. Pogong led the people of the whole city to fight floods and rescue the disaster. It took more than three months to finally solve the danger of floods. The people were grateful to their parents, Pogong, who killed pigs and sheep and sent them to comfort him. Pogong, who has always been honest and clean, naturally laughed at them one by one. He stewed the stewed pork with his own research method and found it super delicious. He ordered it to go on. After eating, the people praised it, delicious! Su Xueshi won the flood magic and cooked a little fresh, which is amazing! This dish is called "giving back meat", which has been handed down from generation to generation. Giving back meat has become a famous dish in Xuzhou.

Xuzhou, also known as Pengcheng, is rich in aquatic products. What Po Gong ate fresh in that river is called Shuang. He sent a letter to Sima Guang, who wrote Zi Zhi Tong Jian in Luoyang, and there was a sentence in it: "Pengcheng has beautiful landscapes, and fish and crabs pretend to be rivers and lakes." Let brother Sima envy it.

In the second year of Yuanfeng, after the trial of Wutai Poetry, Pogong and his family moved to Huangzhou, and the first thing to do was to find delicious food. I wrote a poem "When I first arrived in Huangzhou". There is a sentence in the poem "The Yangtze River goes around the country to know the beauty of fish, and the bamboo shoots are fragrant in the mountains." At that time, Po Gong was depressed to the extreme. Fortunately, the fish here is good and the bamboo shoots are good. Fresh fish soup, fried bamboo shoots, gee! Pork is better. Write a "Pork Song" and sing "Huangzhou good pork, the price is as low as dirt. The rich refuse to eat, and the poor don't understand cooking. In the morning, I get up and play two bowls, and I'm so full that I don't care about my own husband. "I also made the secret recipe of cooking pork into a ballad," Clean the pan, lack water, and the firewood can't afford to smoke. " Don't rush him when he is ripe, and he will be beautiful when the heat is enough. " Pork stuffed with bamboo shoots is more beautiful, and see Po Gong's doggerel "No bamboo makes people vulgar, no meat makes people thin, not vulgar and not thin, bamboo shoots stew pork". Here, he improved the method of stewing pork in Xuzhou, and finally developed Dongpo meat, which is popular all over the world.

During my stay in Huangzhou, my salary was halved, and there were many mouths to eat at home. At that time, some people felt that "the bachelor was as poor as a bone" after witnessing Po Gong's poverty. He planted vegetables on a sloping land in the east of Huangzhou City, calling himself Dongpo lay man, hence the name. "It's ridiculous to laugh all one's life, but it's ridiculous to get old." Po Gong summed up his first half of his life. His big mouth was really uncontrollable. He not only offended the emperor and his colleagues, but also kept eating and eating, and he was mixed up in the land reclamation situation.

In the eighth year of Yuanfeng, Su Shi traveled to Jiangyin and saw the famous painting "The Night Scene of the Spring River" painted by Hui Chong. He stood in front of the painting and looked at the scenery in it, thinking: Spring is so beautiful! The fat duck is delicious! Artemisia annua is so delicious! The reed buds are delicious! The puffer fish is delicious! Mention a poem in the painting, "Peach blossoms outside the bamboo are three or two branches, and the duck prophet in the spring water heating. Artemisia sphaerocephala has short reed buds all over the ground, which is when the puffer fish wants to go up. "

In the ninth year of Yuanyou, Pogong wrote an article "Gourmet Fu" in Huizhou. Gourmet is the most delicious one among the nine sons of Longsheng, and Gourmet Fu means "Old Gourmet Fu". Poe generally believes that eating should be economical and applicable, and must not be extravagant and wasteful. It is enough to have pork neck, autumn crab, candied fruit, lamb, clams and bad crabs in one table, and he claims that "the beauty of the polymer is to support my glutton". The delicious food in the world is to support me, an old foodie!

I also wrote a book, Dish Soup Fu, which is a guide to eating wild vegetables. He can eat a variety of wild vegetables, such as what is cooked, what is pickled, what is cold, what is stained with vinegar and what is stained with soy sauce. Pogong's potherb banquet is comparable to the state banquet.

When eating tropical fruits in Huizhou, I was so happy that I proudly wrote, "It's spring at four o'clock in Luofu Mountain, and the tangerine and waxberry are the second. There are 3 lychees a day, and I don't hesitate to grow up to be a Lingnan person. "Hey! You are always in exile, at least show some sad attitude towards exile. There are no exiles who are as delicious and delicious as you!

In the fourth year of Shao Sheng's reign, Pogong was in Danzhou, and he was finally banished to the ends of the earth and a wild place. This time, he really couldn't find anything delicious. Had to learn from the natives, "the natives eat potatoes and taro at every meal, and recommend to smoke rats and burn bats." When I first heard honey pumping and vomiting, I was a little closer to the custom of toad. "Potato taro, mouse, bat and frog eat whatever they catch. Later, when I ate oysters, I was so happy that I wrote to my son. Don't let your uncles and uncles in the imperial court know that I ate such delicious food in Hainan, or they will come here to rob me.

Finally, Dongpo sang in the ends of the earth: Life is not only poetry and distance, but also delicious food!