In today's era of great integration, many cuisines have been making continuous efforts and innovations, striving to integrate other cuisines into their own cuisines and make their own cuisines develop in different ways. As the eight major cuisines in China, Anhui cuisine has been silent for a long time, and it is rare to stir up. Then, how to revitalize and innovate Anhui cuisine and let people know it again?

Source: Oriental Cuisine

Zhang Yongxiang, the chef of Piyun Huifu, advocates abandoning the "triple" and keeping the "triple"

To develop and revitalize Huizhou cuisine, we must first inherit the essence of Huizhou cuisine and abandon things that are not suitable for the current market. In the past, the cooking methods of heavy salt, heavy meat oil and heavy dark color produced by regional characteristics are incompatible with the current consumption concept of safety, nutrition and green, and should be abandoned.

on the other hand, we should inherit the essence of Anhui cuisine: "emphasizing raw materials, original flavor and fire power".

Fine selection of materials and rigorous production have always been the style characteristics of Anhui cuisine, but this point has been neglected in the process of promoting Anhui cuisine. Take the traditional Anhui cuisine "smelly mandarin fish" as an example, when introducing it, it is often not stated that its materials must be fresh mandarin fish, which is cooked after certain processing and pickling, which makes many people misunderstand.

Huizhou is located in the middle of East China, which provides a good ecological environment for the development of Huizhou cuisine. It is another essence of Huizhou cuisine to keep the original flavor on the basis of paying attention to the essence, true colors and finished products of raw materials, which coincides with the modern concept of "naked cooking".

Ji Guangliang, the head chef of Piyun Huifu in Huangshan Mountain, advocates four techniques of "naked cooking" to help

We should talk about "naked cooking" when developing new Huizhou cuisine. I think we can use four traditional techniques:

1. Crystal sugar can be used to refresh the dishes suitable for low-heat stewing-soup sugar is 2∶1, and salt sugar is 3∶1

Crystal sugar can be used to cook dishes. Salt can enhance the taste, while rock sugar can enhance the freshness. Young chefs may ask, why not use other sugar to refresh them? In fact, this is also the result of many years of research by Anhui cuisine masters. Because rock candy is made of miscellaneous grains, it has its own fragrance, and at the same time, it has a lubricating effect, making the taste fuller. In the production of dishes, the addition of rock sugar should pay attention to proportion. If 5 kg of soup is used for stews, 25 g of rock sugar is appropriate, and the ratio of salt to rock sugar is 3∶1. If the amount of rock sugar is too much, it will rob the main flavor, while if it is too little, it will not play a role in refreshing.

2. Ham helps the taste-sliced, diced and shredded ham is suitable for dishes

Ham produces food enzymes during curing, which can be converted into amino acids, and can produce special fresh flavor, which can not only add salty taste to dishes, but also help umami taste and produce compound taste. Ham is suitable for slow stewing. Because its meat quality is firewood, it is better to eat it in thin slices, diced and filigree. On the one hand, it is easy to taste the raw materials, on the other hand, it tastes good.

3. The aroma won't go away-heightening the cover to protect the aroma

Huizhou cuisine pays attention to the cover and heightens the cover. The high cover has a scientific principle. When the raw materials are heated, the aroma will run upward. If the cover is flat, the aroma will run out of the gap at the pot edge under the influence of pressure. If the cover is high, the hot air will rise, and when it is cold, it will turn into water and flow back into the pot, and the aroma will not be lost. This can maximize the original taste of the ingredients.

4, rotten without residue-sugar before salt is very important

Huizhou cuisine pays attention to rotten without residue, which is actually a tender problem. Sugar can decompose food. When stewing meat, sugar should be put before salt, so that the meat is tender and the stewing time can be shortened. If you put salt first, the meat will get old and it will take a long time; Sugar can also help protein separate out, so if you put sugar in the soup first, the soup will be whiter.

Li Bin, the chef of Huangshan Mountain, advocates three techniques to make monosodium glutamate laid off.

The cooking without monosodium glutamate, which we advocate now, can completely solve this problem with the traditional technology of Huizhou cuisine.

"Ham seasoning, crystal sugar to refresh, cooking wine to remove fishy smell and enhance fragrance" are the usual cooking methods of Anhui cuisine, while keeping the original flavor and paying attention to the heat is one of the major characteristics of traditional Anhui cuisine. In the cooking process, not only high fire, medium fire, low fire and warm fire are used to cook a single dish, but also different methods are used according to different times. Stews in Anhui cuisine pay attention to the mellow and delicious soup, which is ripe, crisp and tender, and some dishes are stewed with charcoal fire.

The main dish of our store-Anhui famous dish "Taibai Fish Head" has inherited the essence of Anhui cuisine. Its raw materials are fine and fresh, and the fish head is taken from organic fish in Qiandao Lake, which is supplied in limited quantities every day; The soybean used in tofu is "June Yellow" on the bank of Xin 'an River, and it is refined by stone grinding process, which is pure landscape tofu; The water is pure and sweet spring water, which makes it really "heavy taste".

Cooking "Taibai Fish Head" needs to be simmered for more than two hours. Pay attention to giving full play to the merits and methods, seeking the wonder with the method, seeking the wonder with the merits, and exhausting the delicious food in the wonder.

Zhang Xiaohu, head chef of Piyun Villa in Shexian County, advocates that there are 68 kinds of Taibai fish heads.

The head chef should not only be able to cook, innovate and package dishes. Dish innovation can't be imitated blindly, nor can it be abandoned blindly. Instead, it is endowed with new ideas and new means on the basis of inheriting and carrying forward the tradition, winning the market and meeting people's psychological and daily consumption needs.

today's Anhui cuisine innovation is also threefold, that is, "emphasizing market, health and culture". The ultimate goal of innovation is to gain market recognition. Green and health are the fashion concepts in today's society, and the innovation of Anhui cuisine also needs us to create a healthy selling point.

The innovation of dishes is also inseparable from culture. The unique history and development background of Huizhou cuisine provide a good foundation for the cultural packaging of dishes. To develop Anhui cuisine, it is necessary to highlight the "cultural" atmosphere, so that guests can feel the connotation of food culture in dining.

For example, Taibai Fish Head, a famous dish in Anhui Province, has 68 different series, including spring, summer, autumn and winter, old people, middle-aged men, middle-aged women, youth and children, and health, beauty, appetizing and benefiting qi, etc., which are developed for different groups of people.

Zhang Henglai, the head chef of Piyun Mountain Villa in Shexian County, advocates creating delicious food with five senses.

When we eat in other places, we only eat with our mouths, but we try our best to innovate and create delicious food with five senses.

1. Experience with our eyes

In the cold dish room, we use the images of emblem pen, ink, paper and inkstone in "Huizhou Four Treasures of the Study" to make all kinds of cold dishes into fine works of art full of ancient Huizhou cultural connotation. In Dianfang, all kinds of snacks with colorful, vivid shapes and delicious fillings are particularly charming, with "Huizhou Three Carvings"-brick carving, wood carving and stone carving as containers.

2. Experience with your nose

We put two large charcoal stoves in Huizhou folk tradition in the Zero Hall, one for baking sweet potatoes and the other for baking Tunxi crab shell yellow sesame cakes. Walking into the ordering area, a fragrance came to the nose. There are also two pairs of strange, scientific and applicable pickaxes, one for selling snacks, hairy tofu, and the other for selling small wonton with a heart emblem. When guests walk down the aisle, they will once again appreciate the excitement brought by China on the Tip of the Tongue.

3. Experience with your ears

Whenever you have a meal in Piyun Huifu, you will hear the beating of gongs and drums. Two young men in ancient costumes carry Taibai fish head, and there is a red seal on the casserole for the host and guest to uncover. Another Huizhou folk fried rice and egg soup, with a casserole on the wooden frame and fried rice in the casserole. The waiter took the copper pot and poured it into the white soup. With a bang, the rice grains jumped and the steam rose. There is also a stone pot of garlic and eggplant. Steamed tomato strips are placed in a hot pot, and garlic paste and red pepper sauce are poured in, which is greasy and crisp.

4. Experience with your mouth

Of course, when your five senses are moving, your mouth will certainly not be idle. The delicious and mellow Huizhou cuisine will completely immerse your mouth in this experience.

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