"A food gang" and "a business gang" have always been intertwined. The so-called "fellow-townsman friendship, in series with gangs" hall appeared, and its restaurant opened. Before the Opium War, Ningbo merchants built Siming Guild Hall outside Shanghai Xiaobeimen. Later, Siming Club became the largest club in Shanghai, which led to the rise of Ningbo cuisine in Shanghai. This mainly depends on the development of Ningbo commercial gangs and their clubs. Of course, the advocacy of Ningbo cuisine and food culture by scholars living in Shanghai is also one of the reasons. After the opening of Shanghai, Ningbo businessmen from Ningbo Gang entered Shanghai and became an important force in Shanghai's economic development. Ningbo is near Shanghai. At the end of Qing Dynasty, the population of Ningbo exceeded 400,000 in Shanghai. With the development of Ningbo merchants in Shanghai, Ningbo cuisine has also entered Shanghai. During the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, Ningbo Restaurant appeared in Shanghai. Ningbo cuisine is rich in seafood. Different from other cuisines, it is famous for yellow croaker soup, braised turtle, fried eel paste and clam soup. Yong Bang Restaurant was named "Zhuangyuan Building", such as Ying Ji Zhuangyuan Building, Yongjiang Zhuangyuan Building and Siming Zhuangyuan Building. At present, Zhuangyuan Building in Yongjiang, Shanghai was founded in 1938. The operator Fang Runxiang and the famous chef Jin Xiang Ying are both from Ningbo. Its dishes include rock sugar soft-shelled turtle, stewed river eel, yellow croaker soup and Xinfeng eel, all of which are authentic Ningbo flavor. There are many people who eat yellow croaker in Ningbo cuisine, among which yellow croaker soup and seaweed dragging yellow croaker are the most famous. In addition, the dew dish is peeled and baked, which is also a traditional food in Ningbo. It is made of stewed fish, peeled pork legs and rotten milk with low fire. Later, Ningbo's famous dishes got together and there were many seafood. Whenever the fishing season in the East China Sea is booming, the shrimps, soldiers and crabs in Shanghai will be attractive and attractive. Among them, cabbage soup with wild large yellow croaker is deeply loved by Shanghai people. The taste is Sichuan soup made of Chinese cabbage, bamboo shoots and wild large yellow croaker, which is very fresh without oil. The Yongjiang Zhuangyuan Building in Ningbo is earlier than that in Shanghai. It was built in the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, and it has been more than 200 years. 1936 or so, located atNo. Rixin Street 16, the third floor, five storefronts and one hall. It is run by Li and Sun. Yingke, a famous chef who is good at Ningbo cuisine, is a native of Ningbo. He used to cook in the "Dalaixuan" restaurant in Osaka, Japan, and is famous for making Ningshi's famous dish rock sugar turtle. Later, the famous chef Hu Changyou was also good at making rock sugar soft-shelled turtle. The turtle used in this dish must be killed alive, and diners must wait patiently for an hour to taste it. In order to enjoy the delicious food, everyone has no complaints. Soft-shelled turtles are selected from more than half a catty to less than one and a half catties, including eight quarts, six quarts and four quarts, and six quarts a catty is the best. To make this dish, you need a word "glutinous", which looks complete in shape and tastes rough. This requires the chef to master the cooking methods well. Paying attention to the use of heat, strong flavor and strong Huang Liang color are the characteristics of Ningbo cuisine. Zhuangyuanlou brought Ningbo cuisine to Shanghai, attracting Ningbo diners living in Shencheng at the earliest. Therefore, this shop has a unique Ningbo style, with tables and chairs made of tiger skin and yellow wood. Cooking on the stove and selling vegetables in the store all come from Ningbo, and what they do is the local accent-Alaninbo dialect. It is said that if you went to a restaurant to help and didn't know its local accent, you would get a cold reception and a dirty look. The promotion of Ningbo cuisine in Shanghai should be attributed to Su Qing, a Ningbo scholar in Shanghai in the 1940s. Her articles such as "Talking about Ningbo People's Eating" make Ningbo people in Shanghai feel more cordial and make Shanghai people's forefinger move. You see, her talk about eating is so "Ningbo accent": "For example, I always buy roast chicken, onion barbecue, fish and eggs every day. Everything is fresh, but the cooking methods in Shanghai are different from those in N city (Ningbo). All kinds of side dishes are sweet and greasy, and I don't seem to like them. People in N like to eat salty and delicious things, such as pickled melon and stinky tofu, which are not easy to buy here (referring to Shanghai). August is the time to eat osmanthus yellow croaker. A touch of yellow croaker on the belly of the fish looks like a transparent emerald. People in N City live by the sea, so when they are caught, they naturally want to eat fresh food. They often steam with salt and cooking wine, and they can also add shrimp soy sauce, but those who like to clear their mouths will put shrimp melon juice or good salt vegetable juice, but the yellow croaker in Shanghai must be braised. First, it is fried in a lot of raw oil, then thick soy sauce with onions and sugar. " The food culture of people in n city is written in detail. Su Qing really spared no effort to promote Ningbo's eating method. She talked about eating in Ningbo in Tiandi magazine and in Tiny World. Her prose collection Jin Huanji talks about sleeping and eating: I eat small dishes on weekdays, and I like stewing or simply frying. The first is fresh, and the second is delicious. Another thing to note is that cooking and cooking fish must be vigorous, and cooking soup and barbecue must be slow. As for the color of cooked side dishes, it is also very important. These are all ways to eat in Ningbo. Su Qing, a native of Ningbo, cooks and makes pies, which fully shows Ningbo people's "slightly particular" diet view: Su Qing said, "I can't afford to eat things that are too expensive, and I refuse to eat things that are too unclean". "When you are not satisfied with the food, you can eat some dessert to make up for it. "The pots and bowls I make snacks will never be mixed with cooking and soup to avoid the greasy taste of meat." "I like to set up snacks with all kinds of exquisite dishes, which makes me feel more delicious because I taste good." Cooking "I love to use Zhoushan snail oil, but as for cooking wine, I don't hesitate to ask the number one flower carving to give in." These dietary customs in Ningbo, together with the delicacy of Ningbo cuisine, have a subtle influence on every household in Shanghai, and over time, they have become the dietary habits and tastes of Shanghainese. You see, didn't Shanghainese learn from Ningbo to drink and pursue a "happy stomach"? In the inaugural issue of Shanghai Culture, Wang Zengqi wrote a short article entitled "Xiaolewei", listing the dietary characteristics of Shanghainese, which is vivid and interesting. As long as you observe carefully, it is not difficult to find that this is completely the habit of Ningbo people. Although Su Qing also eats Cantonese cuisine, Fujian cuisine and Sichuan cuisine, she said, "When I am sick, I want to eat my own local dishes, especially the local products of the whole country (referring to Ningbo). I used to eat when I was a child, but now I don't have a taste when I think about it. " This is caused by nostalgia, and it is often easy to think of the delicious food in my childhood hometown. Zhou Zuoren is not infatuated with Shaoxing Zhou Dehe's tofu. What Su Qing said was natural and casual. Her personality is bold and straightforward, with self-awareness and self-assertion that will not change with people. Therefore, her introduction of Ningbo cuisine and Ningbo food culture in Shanghai also made Shanghainese regard Ningbo cuisine as a delicacy of Ala Shanghainese, thus giving birth to the combination of Shanghai cuisine and Ningbo cuisine. For example, "Little yellow croaker, the battle report is bright, and there are one or two triangular cymbals for sale! ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… Another example is Su Qing's hobby, which is Shanghainese food or Ningbo food? Shanghainese like pickled potatoes and fresh vegetables, but the way to adjust the pot-"combining fresh and salty" is the cooking method of Ningbo people. Benedict is Ningbo dialect, which means simmering slowly; Salty and fresh courtyard mostly uses bamboo shoots as cooking ingredients. Bamboo shoots are Ningbo cuisine, and winter bamboo shoots and spring bamboo shoots are readily available. The appearance of this food culture phenomenon shows that a cuisine is sometimes composed of two or more similar food customs and flavors. At the same time, the food habits of one cuisine are similar to those of another cuisine, and the food culture circles overlap and merge with each other. Shanghai cuisine is composed of Yong, Su and Yang, and dishes from all over the world are of course radiated to Shanghai. But it has absorbed the cooking skills of Ningbo cuisine in particular. Just like Shanghai dialect is a mixture of Shanghai dialect, Ningbo dialect and Su Bai. In the new era, Ningbo people and their descendants in Shanghai have also made extraordinary contributions to the promotion of Ningbo cuisine. Among them, Hong Pi-mo, known as one of the "Three Musketeers of Gourmet" in Shanghai, has made an indelible contribution. Hong Pimo lives in Shanghai and his heart is in Ningbo. His food articles: "Ningbo cuisine is popular in Shanghai" and "hometown taste of Ningbo cuisine" promoted the delicacy of Ningbo cuisine. He especially appreciates cabbage soup, yellow croaker soup and Sanhuang soup. He said: "The soup of pickled cabbage and yellow croaker is bigger. When I was eating, I scooped a bowl, and then I scooped another bowl, which is enough. " This is the mantra of Ningbo people. He said that when eating yellow croaker soup, fresh and tender fish, shrimp, sea cucumber, egg drop, diced ham and diced mushrooms ripple in the soup, and the spoon is fresh, wonderful and easy to digest. He added: "Ningbo seafood restaurants in Shanghai include Hantong Seafood Hotel and Harvest Day Seafood Hotel. The carefree nature of these restaurants is so magnificent that Ningbo restaurants such as Zhuangyuan Building in Yongjiang and Old Ningbo Restaurant in Hongqiao Hotel are dwarfed. " It can be seen that he advocated the popularity of Ningbo cuisine in Shanghai because of the homesickness of Ningbo people. Ningbo fellow villagers visited the "100-foot old house" in Shanghai Hongshi apartment, and his light food was Ningbo cuisine; The fellow villagers in Ningbo sent him "Hantong Catering", and he returned a postcard with a photo of Ningbo fish on it, with the postscript that "more than a year is more than a year". A glimpse of ningbo complex. Can we say that Hong Pimo's lingering homesickness is not only a nostalgia for Ningbo culture, but also a natural enrichment of Ningbo culture, especially Ningbo food culture? Ningbo literati Su Qing and Hong Pimo in Shanghai introduced Ningbo cuisine, which undoubtedly promoted the rise and popularity of Ningbo cuisine in Shanghai.