Recently, a friend asked me, can you accurately summarize your hometown in a few words?

I was really in a trance for a while. Maybe the mountains there are too high, the water is too clear, the sky there is too blue and the clouds are too white, the wine there is too fragrant and enthusiastic, and the people there are too simple and enthusiastic. Or maybe I rely too much on my feelings there ... which makes me wonder what words to use to express my inner feelings.

My hometown is in Xia Yuan, a relatively remote alpine mountain area. In the 1980s, it was also a symbol of poverty and backwardness. But I often dream about her in a foreign land. Perhaps my hometown is the most beautiful in everyone's heart, whether poor or rich.

If I have to sum it up in words. Use the first keyword first: water wine.

If you come to Xia Yuan and don't drink Xia Yuan's water and wine, it's a great pity in your life. Basically, every household in Xia Yuan has its own brewed water wine. Villagers use their own white glutinous rice, mountain spring water and their own distiller's yeast to naturally ferment and brew water wine. Its color is light yellow and transparent, its aroma is rich and fragrant, and its taste is mellow and sweet. Those who have drunk water wine are all good.

Water and wine are as important to my hometown as fish is to water. Whether the villagers hold weddings, funerals, festivals or guests at home, if this authentic water wine is missing from the table, this banquet will be criticized no matter how many delicious dishes there are. If there are distant guests at home, careful housewives will definitely take out their own brewed water wine for the guests to taste. When they are welcomed by guests, flowers appear on their faces. Because for them, drinking water is an affirmation of their hard work and ability.

Around the lunar calendar 10, new glutinous rice comes out, which is the best time to make wine. Every household smokes and housewives are busy making wine. Grandma said that in the early days, if a woman could not make wine, she would be looked down upon, and of course her mother-in-law would be disgusted. And always earnestly taught me, girls' home, these jobs must be learned, and I can stand up straight when I get to my husband's home. At this time, I always hide behind my mother and stick out my tongue to make faces. I think such a day is too far away from us. But I like watching my mother make wine. My mother is a famous winemaker in the village. My father is a good drinker. He only drinks his own water wine. So this time is the busy time for his mother to make wine for him. And we children, in the midst of this excitement, are eating delicious glutinous rice and laughing and playing. After years of exposure, I also have a general understanding of the brewing process. When I grew up, I found that those wine-making fragments were fixed into fragrant memories in my memory, just like the taste of water wine, mellow and long.

Preparations for brewing should begin in spring. Because wine-making needs a special kind of koji. In spring, there is a kind of grass called Polygonum hydropiper, which grows wildly in front of and behind the house. This is a necessary raw material for making koji. When it reveals a small red heart and the flower is about to bloom, pick it up. On moldy days, put rice soaked in water according to the ratio of one liter of rice to one liter of flowers (1: 1). After three days, the aroma of wine appeared, and after one week, the fermentation was completed and dried. Generally, one pill and one catty of rice can make wine. This is a big project. Generally speaking, at that time, the women in the village gathered together with their own soaked rice, just like attending a grand event. Everyone worked together and completed this sacred mission with a smile. At this time, children are not allowed to make noise because they are afraid of distracting and mixing the ingredients wrong. If this year's koji is unqualified, it will directly affect the quality of water wine for one year. Therefore, at this time, we don't have to worry about making trouble everywhere in the yard without adult control.

Naturally, it is qualified to make' Nine Songs' sincerely every year. Finally, in 10, the hottest topic in the village is who makes the best wine, and housewives secretly make every effort to make the best wine in this season. Become the hottest topic this season. Mom is sure to fill two barrels of wine. Pick two barrels of mountain spring water, first wash the glutinous rice white, then soak it for an hour or two, and then put the rice in the steamer. At this time, the steamer is not allowed to have cracks, and the fire must be strong. Mom won't be idle in this gap. She will wash a big wine jar and prepare a bigger bucket for threshing. Don't worry, it's setting up a home for the vat. Because if you want to make wine quickly and well, the temperature must be kept good. When the steamer starts breathing hot air, the glutinous rice inside should be cooked in a few minutes. Lift the steamer and put it in a stable place where air leaks easily, and get ready for the steamed glutinous rice to cool down. Of course, before that, we children will definitely be asked if we want to eat glutinous rice. Of course, we are willing and looking forward to it for a long time. We will knead rice into a ball, each child will take one, eat it with relish, and then make wine. This is our greatest honor. When we shared the glutinous rice balls contentedly, my mother had shoveled the glutinous rice loosely, and then took a steamed glutinous rice bath from head to toe with two buckets of cold water. At this time, there is actually a taboo. You can't talk about glutinous rice, you can't talk about wine. If you can't catch mom's eye. At this time, they will be a little idealistic and superstitious, fearing that the wine will not be good.

When the sticky rice in the steamer is almost cold, it's time to put them in the jar. At this time, the key to making good wine is to make good koji. According to the weight of glutinous rice, the distiller's yeast is crushed with a noodle dish, mixed with mountain spring water, and the rice is taken out while the distiller's yeast is filled. Until all the rice is in the jar, flatten them and pour a little wine yeast on them. Cover the gap with a clean film. Add some straw and cover the cylinder head. Mother sighed very successfully. Success depends on the result in three days.

In these three days, I am the most impatient. Often on the first day, I will ask, mom, how is the wine? Mom usually smiles and says, it's still early, and there are still two days. The next day, I will ask again, mom, how is the wine? Mom usually smiles and says, I'm worried about you. Don't worry, it will be finished tomorrow. But I can't wait. When my mother is not looking, I will pinch the lid with my little hand and touch it curiously. When I put my hand in, I will feel different, quite warm. At this time, a faint fragrance will float from the tip of my nose. When I want to see more, I am often caught by my mother. Mom is not allowed to open the lid at this time, because it will not be cooked, and lowering the temperature inside will affect the quality of the wine. So I had to watch the small crack that was finally removed be covered by my mother again. I hope tomorrow will come soon.

The long-awaited moment has finally arrived. Early in the morning, I shouted that it was the third day and the wine was ready. Ah, this wine room really smells of wine. At this time, my mother was a little impatient. When I opened the lid and straw, a strong smell of wine filled the room instantly. I can't wait to put my finger into the wine that overflowed the film and put it in my mouth. The sweet and greasy taste suddenly changed in my mouth. That's so sweet. Looking up at my mother, I could clearly see the happiness and satisfaction on my mother's face at that moment. That is a comfort after success, but also a pride after success. After many years, this photo always appears in my memory. The smell of wine seems to haunt my nose all the time. It will last for a long time.

As soon as the good wine comes out, naturally all the neighbors have a share. Send a bowl to the aunt of the shopkeeper and a bowl to the mother-in-law in the west. My mother said that if you share good things together, the more you eat, the more delicious you will be. I am willing to undertake this sacred task. Often, the bowls I bring back will not be empty, or two eggs or a few oranges. Of course, these attract me more than wine. It is in this kind of running before and after, in the smell of wine, that I deeply realized the deep and simple feelings of my neighbors. I understand that this wine is not just wine, it represents a simple folk custom. It makes me treat the world and others well when I grow up, no matter when and where I am.

This wine shared with neighbors is just sweet wine, sweet wine. There is a unique drinking method in my hometown, which is to wash eggs with sweet wine, boil the sweet wine and add egg white to drink immediately. This drinking method is very delicious and nutritious, and it also has the effect of promoting fluid production and relieving cough. Every time a new son-in-law comes to the door, he is sure to be treated like this. This wine is suitable for people who don't drink much. It is generally only used to entertain relatives and VIPs. Children can eat with their bellies open. Not intoxicating. Its taste, in my memory, is more delicious than any drink. This is not nearly as good as the authentic water wine. Don't worry, the older the wine, the better. If you want to drink the most delicious water wine, you must wait for ten and a half months. When the wine is getting stronger and stronger and a little choking, the wine will get old. When the distiller's grains are drained, the remaining juice is raw wine, commonly known as old wine. At this time, the wine is clear and transparent, and it is dark or light yellow. Smell it, and the wine smells good. This fragrance is different from that of liquor, which is often very strong, while the fragrance of Yuanshui liquor is like a mountain. If you taste it again, the entrance is slightly sweet and soft, and there is a silky feeling that wine slowly enters the stomach, which will definitely make you feel the first love.

Shamefully, as a woman from Xia Yuan, I didn't learn to brew that authentic and delicious water wine until now. Although my mother-in-law didn't look down on me because of this, she always thought it was a pity. I think one day, I will inherit this inheritance. Because I want to experience my mother's happiness and sense of accomplishment at that time. How beautiful.

The guests all said that Shuijiu is everywhere, but the original Shuijiu feels really different, especially authentic. Every time I hear this, I am particularly excited. I think, things made with sincerity, together with the most distinctive mountain spring water, must be the most delicious. I really hope that one day, Shuijiu will become a business card in my hometown and let more people know and like it. If you come to the original, you might as well try it, but I tell you: water and wine are good, but don't be greedy. It is full of stamina and intoxicating.

Erziba

Every year when the Spring Festival comes, at the end of December of the lunar calendar, the countryside will welcome the annual farmers' event: Bazin.

It is no exaggeration to say that this is a great event. Because no matter adults or children, their interest in this matter is often much stronger than eating Ciba. Nowadays, the material life in the countryside is getting richer and richer, but for Bazin, everyone has a strange novelty and expectation, and has special feelings. The year is approaching, and if someone doesn't eat, it seems that this year will be less interesting.

I remember that at that time, the material conditions in the countryside were not so good, and the meaning of Ciba was even more unusual. After the New Year, children visit relatives and friends to celebrate the New Year, which plays a leading role. If someone has just married a new daughter-in-law, it is even more necessary for the new son-in-law to pay a New Year call to Yue's family. Take a laundry basket and cover it with a new towel. In the creaking of the pole, the new son-in-law is as happy as he is. At this time, Ciba not only bears heavy local feelings, but also symbolizes the happy life of the villagers.

Getting up with this little Baba is a very particular thing.

First of all, preparations must be done well. On the first day in Bazin, choose the first-class crystal clear glutinous rice and carefully rub it with well water. After washing several times, put it in a vat and soak it in well water. The tools used for Bazin are mallets, stone mortars and templates used for Bazin printing. These tools must be cleaned. You must prepare a dustpan, a rope to tie a mallet, and a large piece of land for Bazin ... More importantly, you need Bazin's manpower. On this night, adults will tell children that they will print Bazin tomorrow and tell them. This has to be said to be a major event that everyone should take to heart.

In the morning, housewives began to get busy. Drain the washed glutinous rice, put it in a wooden steamer and put it on a cauldron. The dry wood in the stove lit the fire, the fire shone brightly, and the room was full of warmth. When the steam is boiled until 9: 00, the tone will be lengthened and called: Come on, everyone. At that time, children swarmed in, scrambling for the most beautiful template they thought, occupying the most favorable position, waiting for the printed Ciba. In fact, at this time, there is also a most critical procedure, Baba.

I saw two people in charge of Bazin rushing into the yard with a pot of steamed glutinous rice and pouring it into a huge stone mortar. Pick up the gavel with a thick wrist and shout hey hey. This requires not only strength but also clever work. If you are bored, you dare not move the gavel. If you are energetic, you will not be able to crush glutinous rice and turn it into glutinous rice. On the contrary, you will be exhausted. Therefore, Bazin pursues the words "fast, accurate, steady, ruthless and skillful".

Come on. Facing the stone mortar, the two men stand on one side, and the mallets in their hands should be quickly put down and quickly put away, and the mallets will fall densely while the iron is hot. Good Baba can be as soft as ever, so it is easy to print in the mold.

The "accurate" aim should be sufficient, and two sticks can't both hit the same place. If the diameter of the stone mortar is very small, a little distracted, the mallet will hit the stone mortar, or even poke directly to the ground. This is not the scene that Zanzibar's "Bashi" wants to see. In this way, glutinous rice can be beaten evenly like porcelain.

"Steady". There is also a steady hand. This stability means that the hand holding the lever is very important and the strength should be uniform. You can't be flustered in front, exhausted in the back, and you can't keep up with the trip. Then this glutinous rice Baba mortar will be mixed with rice grains, which is not conducive to molding in the mold and is not conducive to preservation.

"malicious". Needless to say, the strength of the wrist and arm should be enough to stretch and spread out smoothly! In this way, even in the ice and snow, you will sweat all over.

"Qiao" made a big fuss in a small stone mortar from glutinous rice to glutinous rice Baba. However, when they see their mallets, they rub them first, then hit them and make a "crack" sound. After careful observation, the experienced "mallet hand" will quickly lean back and press on the other side of another mallet in the process of lifting the mallet, and so on. Baba obediently turned over in the stone mortar, and the whole body accepted the "blow", as bright and transparent as pig suet. It has laid a good foundation for any link behind.

At this time, he shouted: "Get a ball sieve (dustpan)!" Two mallets fly up and down, just like a double dragon grasping a treasure, and a steaming Baba stirs between them. The impatient people in the room have prepared a ball sieve with raw rice flour, walked down, surrounded the mallet with Baba by a straw rope soaked in water for a long time, and then turned around, and the mallet and Baba separated smoothly. A mass of white rice cake blooms like a flower in a sieve.

When they entered the room, the impatient children clamored for the first printed matter. Very lively.

But no matter how urgent it is, you must follow the procedure. It's really a mess, where there are such big marks. Naturally, it should be captured as a small ball the size of a printing plate. Although this is simple, most people can't do it. If you weigh it unevenly, some will be big and some will be small. If you put them in a printing plate with the same size, the large ones will flow out of the printing plate and have burrs, and the small ones will shrink like water, which will make the printing ugly. There is also the "Ba jiaozi" that has been clamped, and the "joints" of the twisted parts should be handled well. You can't bring raw rice flour into the cake, otherwise it won't become a whole and it will crack early. Of course, we have to ask the most experienced old people in the village to make glutinous rice balls, which are uniform in size, then pressed into a circle and put into a printing plate, which is not too big or too small, just right. Using hot air, the pattern on the printing plate is easy to form. How many Ciba can a glutinous rice mortar catch? His heart is full of music, but the children hope that there will be a small group of Ciba that is not easy to print in the end, and then it will become delicious in their mouths. This wish can often come true. The old man is very kind and always leaves a small photo at the last minute to satisfy the children's wishes, because at that time, the taste of glutinous rice must be different.

In the laughter of the children, a stone mortar was quickly printed. Of course, there are exquisite printing methods, but that is to hold it for the New Year, that is, the new son-in-law goes to the mother-in-law's mother-in-law's house. You must choose a symmetrical and beautiful appearance. Some of them put green pine branches on the printing plate, or "little red dot": order four little red dot. I heard that it symbolizes good luck.

When the rice cake in the printing plate is almost cooled, the rice cake in the next mortar is almost ready. At this time, taking the rice cakes out of the printing plate and putting them in the long-prepared open space will cause heated debates among children. Some people say that I printed this bird, and some people say that I printed this flower, which is full of sense of accomplishment and pride.

This scene can't be said to be a grand event.

In this grand event year after year, we spent many happy and carefree times. Although there are all kinds of New Year's greetings now, I can avoid the heavy work of bringing Bazin with me during the New Year's greetings, but I still like the local Bazin best, which bears the sight and expectation of farmers for a year and is full of sweat and laughter of farmers. Its rich patterns reflect the ingenuity of rural artists; It is white and crystal clear, as spotless as winter in the countryside; It is soft and sticky, and eating it is touching life. It is soft and entangled with the endless homesickness of the wanderer; It is round and is a symbol of family reunion in the eyes of the elderly.