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Jinjiang Street Lane 36: From Buhou Street to Chunxi Road

in 1947, I entered the senior high school of provincial Chengdu Middle School, at the age of 16. At the school gate, Yu Youren's book "Chengdu Middle School in Sichuan Province" has eight characters, which is referred to as "Provincial Chengzhong" for short; It was one of the four famous schools in Chengdu at that time. I'm new to school, and I'm nervous about my courses, so I dare not neglect them. Every weekend, it is the most indulgent to go to the movies or visit the old book stalls on Qingnian Road. Therefore, the three-thirds city of Jiuli is familiar with the line from Wushitang Street, where the school is located, to Chunxi Road. What you see and hear along the route is also a glimpse of the street view of old Chengdu. Because Chunxi Road is arranged in the first volume of the book, let's talk about crossing the street across the street from Ganhuaishu Street first. As for the experiences of five generations living under one roof to Ganhuaishu Street, I will tell you later.

Go straight on Ganhuaishu Street, and you will find Buhou Street. The first one on the left side of the street is Zhicheng Commercial Senior Vocational School, which trains accounting talents in technical secondary schools. Dacheng Middle School (now <; 2118 > Chengdu No.3 Middle School), whose predecessor was Confucius Shengtang founded by Xu Zi Hugh, one of the "five old men and seven sages", enrolled students and respected Confucius to read classics in order to counter the May 4th New Culture Movement. Later, it was renamed Dacheng Middle School, and the course still set up a subject of reading classics. Confucius memorial tablet was still available in Dacheng Hall on campus, and the teachers and students of the whole school were gathered from time to time to kneel and knock, which was really beautiful. It is also adjacent to Chengdu Grand Theatre in the west, performing Sichuan Opera; Next to the back walls of many houses in the west, the walls are covered with green vines. The theater and many houses were located in the Qing Dynasty. The street is in the latter, which is called Buhou Street. Street is located in the former Ministry of Political Affairs, called Buqian Street (renamed Huaxing East Street in the Republic of China). In the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, there is also a garden on the right side and the backyard. The scenic spots include Bobo Pavilion, Hung Hom Bridge, Flower Dock, Jiecuixuan, Little Green Pavilion and so on, and the scenery must be very good. Yiyuan Garden was built in the Qianlong period, but it has disappeared in the Guangxu period. During the Republic of China, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs ceased to exist and evolved into a theater and a house. After liberation, it was the West Sichuan Daily, and now it is the Sichuan Daily.

The first house on the right of Buhou Street is the New Sichuan Pavilion, which is the hotel. Adjacent to the mansion in the west, it was the famous Sunjia Garden in Qing Dynasty, the first overseer of Sichuan Xiong Kewu Mansion in the Republic of China, and the provincial Federation of Literary and Art Circles after liberation. I entered this mansion at the age of 21, and wasted 55 years. Now I am 76 years old (note: 2117), and I am still here.

Let's go back to Xiong Mansion in the past. The high wall of the house faces the street, and the wall is embedded with horse stones. Black-painted double doors, the doors are full of zygotes (the so-called entrance in Japan), and the walls are painted with golden unicorn, surrounded by five bats. The house has five entrances, wooden bungalows and a combination of Chinese and western styles. The mansion consists of seven courtyards and two gardens. There are rockeries, mountain pavilions, ponds, waterside pavilions and flower halls in the park. In each small courtyard, there are strange flowers and trees, and there is another nanmu tree. The room is elegant and secluded, and it is pleasant to live in. Thinking about it so far, like a dream, wakes up without a tile, which makes people sigh.

The last one on the right of Buhou Street is the famous banquet hall Yurong Paradise, which is known as "Authentic Sichuan Style" and was founded in 1911. The Lan brothers, the owner of the garden, are well versed in cooking, collecting the characteristics of Beijing cuisine and Jiangsu cuisine, and raising the banner of Sichuan cuisine, which has changed the old pattern that Sichuan cuisine is "eight bowls of meat", "nine bowls of bucket" and "a feast for the belly". It is also good at management, often leaving dozens of tables and seats in the hall, making arrangements quickly and appropriately, and ensuring customer satisfaction. Passing by the door, it is common to stick red knots and put on a big wedding banquet. Rong Paradise moved to Luomashi Street after liberation. The former site does not exist, but now it is Starlight Hotel.

Go to the end of Buhou Street, near the crossroads. If you go straight, it is Cihuitang Street. Although not online, we should know that there is a big house on the right side of the street with a gold plaque "Cihuitang" hanging on the door. It was originally a government-run charity, but it was changed to a private one in the Republic of China. In 1923, Yin Zhongxi, one of the "five old men and seven sages", was elected as the prime minister. Since then, Cihuitang has run a match factory, and its products are sold throughout the province. It also runs a voluntary school, a reformatory for blind children, a reformatory for baby girls, a lending institution for the poor and a reformatory for orphans and poor children. The combination of relief and production, as well as public and private donations, has led to an increase in the production of the hall, with an area of Tian Wan mu and 211 rooms. Relief for thousands of people is really effective. Yin Zhongxi has made outstanding achievements in managing Cihuitang. During his tenure, he signed a letter with Xu Zi Hugh, Zeng Huanru, etc. to Liu Xiang, requesting that cars be banned from entering the city. The reason was that "cars rumble and stand out" and "people who are in their twilight years are extremely timid", so they are also regarded as conservatives of "five old men and seven sages".

go back and walk. Now standing at the west end of Buhou Street, turn left and it is Zitong Bridge Main Street. Thousands of years ago in the Tang Dynasty, this street was a river. The riverbed produces high-quality diamond sand, which can dissect jade, hence the name of Xieyuxi. The river entered the city from Shuidongzi in the northwest corner of the city thousands of years ago, flowing through Qinglong Street, Xiyulong Street, Yudaiqiao Street, Yusha Street, Dongyulong Street and Guiwangqiao Street, winding its way here and still flowing southeast. Then it passes through Dongjinjiang Street, flows in front of the south gate of Daci Temple at that time, and enters Neijiang Old Road through Mill Street. Where there is a river, there is a bridge. The bridge that once existed here is east and west. Qiaoxi is today Zitong Bridge West Street, and Qiaodong is today Sichuan Daily. As mentioned earlier, the address of Sichuan Daily was where the Ministry of Foreign Affairs was located in the Qing Dynasty. The garden on the right side of the department has a small bridge and a pond, and the water source should be Xieyuxi outside the department. There is no doubt about the existence of this river. In 1951, Guiwangqiao Street, Shuangzhazi Street and Zitongqiao Main Street were built all the way from north to south, and the stone brick embankment below was still there, which is conclusive evidence. The bridge here is named Zitong Bridge because there is Zitong Temple dedicated to Zhang Yazi, the emperor of Wenchang. Qiqushan Temple in Zitong County, northern Sichuan is the temple of Zhang Yazi, also known as Zitong Emperor. Zitong, Zishan Tongshui and place names have nothing to do with Chengdu.

When I arrived at the north entrance of Zitong Bridge Main Street, the market became lively, indicating that it was approaching the bustling block. The first one on the left side of the street is Juxian Tea House, which is full of people upstairs and downstairs. Another article is exclusive.

Juxian Tea House goes south. On the left are small hotels, noodle shops, small restaurants, barbershops and cigarette shops. Then there is a dessert shop, with the same name and the same owner (Shu people call flowers), selling water chestnut cake, glutinous eggs and glutinous rice balls, and the business is light. After going to two or three restaurants in the south, it is the famous Jixue noodle restaurant, which sells eel noodles and all kinds of snacks, such as jiaozi and Shaomai, which are very well made. Millet is the representative of five grains, and snow is as white as pasta. Further south, there is Changmeixuan Restaurant, which is famous for steamed meat with lotus leaves, meat pie soup and cold beef offal. The cooked rice is different from the steamed ladle in general restaurants, but steamed in small bowls. The above is on the left side of Zitong Bridge Main Street. The first shop on the right side of the street is the sauce garden shop. In the south, there are marinated brine shops, famous crispy ducks and geese, small hotels and noodle restaurants. Further, across the west street corner of Zitong Bridge, there is a mounting shop named Xiuguzhai, which also sells antique calligraphy and painting. It was opened in the late Qing Dynasty and the owner's surname is Qin. There is also a pastry shop, which is famous for its Japanese-style fresh flowers and cakes. It was also opened in the late Qing Dynasty. Zitong Bridge is at the end of the main street, near the crossroads. If you go straight, it is Fuxing Street. Although it is not online, we should know that this street specializes in hats. The old ones are melon skin hats and felt nest hats, and the new ones are military hats and student hats. There is an ancient bamboo grove snack on the right side of the street north entrance, which is famous for its white intestines, pot swings and hat-burning knots (pig's small intestines are swollen into knots), while garlic and white meat are cheap and worth the money. The meat is thin to translucent, and the boiling soup is cooked as soon as it is hot. Pick it up and drain it, add seasoning and cover it with garlic paste, which is tender and not greasy. Serve quickly and sit down to eat. I went to a big hotel in the south and changed it into an "Allied Hostel" in the late period of the Anti-Japanese War to recruit prostitutes to meet the needs of US military personnel. Although it involves ugliness, if it doesn't, it won't work, which will embarrass the municipal government.

at the south exit of Zitong Bridge Main Street, turn right and it is Huaxing Main Street, and it has entered the bustling block. If two drug stores, a tea shop and a tea garden are regarded as "food stores", then it is really a street to eat. Chengdu people's delicious food, to this street and decide, there is no dispute. The wonderful thing is that a drugstore is Li Ji Tianfutang, which manufactures and sells Ferula pills, and specializes in treating "food retention"-eating too much and making you sick. There are too many signs and too many varieties in those food shops to remember, so I won't introduce them one by one.

There are only two schools that are related to a middle school student who is not a rich boy. Let's talk about them separately. One is Liuliu tofu pudding noodle restaurant, diagonally opposite the north exit of the commercial market. Add fried soybeans, cooked oil, chili pepper, and kohlrabi to the bean curd plain noodles, and the bean curd will be very tender in the bowl. Bean flower vegetarian rice, a square of slightly older bean flower is put into a small bowl alone, with hot sauce, pepper and chopped green onion, which is very appetizing. Both of them are cheap and the customers are very crowded. The other one has no shop, and set up a booth under the high wall opposite the Liuliu Tofu Noodle Restaurant, which specializes in rice. Boil soup, cold rice is cooked, scoop it into the bowl, put a pinch of sprouts, sprinkle a few chopped green onion and pick a spoonful of lard, which is most suitable for drivers, vendors and students. The word "rice" can be found in the Legacy of Xuanhe in the Great Song Dynasty, and the boiling soup is boiled and cooked. Nowadays, people are not literate, and the signs are all "taking a meal", so it is ok to avoid being strong. Dare not laugh at them, they are the majority.

Huaxing main street is about Yuelai Theater (now Yuelai Tea Garden). Originally called Yuelai Tea Garden, it is a tea garden-type theater, which was completed in the first year of Xuantong (AD 1919). Tea garden theater, the stage is open on three sides and protrudes forward. The front pool, left pool and right pool under the stage are densely placed with tea tables. A table with five chairs can seat five people. The tea table surrounded the stage on three sides, and the audience watched the play from three sides. Tickets for seats in the front pool are higher, and seats in the left pool and the right pool are lower. Its pattern still exists in the Song Dynasty. There are those who are different, and there are rooms in Qianchi, Zuochi and Right Ikenoe, where female guests are specially seated to avoid confusion. The buildings are connected in the shape of concave characters, which is like a temple theater.

Yuelai Tea Garden was originally located at the side of Laolang Temple, because Laolang was the protector of the actor, just as a carpenter offered a sacrifice to Lu Ban, asking for his blessing. It is said that Lao Lang was Li Longji, Emperor of the Tang Dynasty, who set up a pear garden as the ancestor of the troupe. Yuelai Tea Garden was completed, and more than 311 people from 9 Sichuan opera troupes in Chengdu originally performed in temples and halls. At this time, they were combined into Sanqinghui (Sichuan Opera Troupe), where they performed all the year round. With a fixed performance place, the survival of actors is guaranteed, and the art of Sichuan opera has been greatly improved. By the end of the 1941s, it had been called Yuelai Theater, and its repertoire featured such institutional settings as "guillotines" and "Nine Degrees of Literature and Ten Degrees of Wife", starring Chen Shufang, with a large advertisement on the door and oil painting of half-naked women. Also staged a new drama "Dumb Woman and Wife", trying to "create something new" in Sichuan Opera. At that time, Sichuan opera was already in recession, which showed that classical art had not fully adapted to the secular appetite of modern commercial society. What I loved at that time was the new literature since May 4th, and I never watched Sichuan Opera, thinking it was too outdated. However, I secretly appreciate the singing of "Let the Kratos in the stable", "The Palace of Eternal Life" and "The Hall of Yanghe", and I like to watch funny plays such as Marrying Mom, Asking for a doctor and The Tailor Stealing Cloth.

Huaxing main street is not finished here, so we won't go for a short time ahead. Now turn left and it's the north exit of the commercial market. Chengdu has a commercial market, and Beijing has an Dongan market; As for Chunxi Road, it goes without saying that it is still Wangfujing. The first name of the commercial market was Quanyechang, which was completed in the first year of Xuantong (AD 1919) and was the earliest modern shopping mall in Chengdu. The following year, it was renamed the commercial field. There are yangguang department store, silks and satins, clothes, boots and shoes, official hats and gowns, fur, saddles, embroidered jacquard, glass jade, palace powder, pancreas, towel comb, Paris perfume, Taixi yarn satin, western velvet, Taiwan Province banquet, watches and glasses, calligraphy and painting antiques, bamboo silk craft, ancient embroidery and porcelain carving, book printing, Guangdong candy and Fujian silk. The pedestrian street in the stadium is lined with shops on both sides, all of which are on the first floor and the bottom. The cloister upstairs is surrounded by railings. There are gates at the front and rear entrances, which are open in the morning and closed at night. A generator is installed in the northwest corner of the venue for full-court lighting. At dusk, citizens flocked to see the lights on.

At that time, Zhou Xiaohuai, a native of Zhejiang and born in Chengdu, was the one who advised Ye Daoyin. The completion of the shopping mall depends on his promotion. This man traveled to Japan seven times to study the Meiji Restoration in Japan. When he first became a patrol officer, Dao Yin was only 31 years old. It also depends on him to establish a modern police system in Sichuan. The two Dao Yin were only seven years old, and they were practical. Shu people summed up his achievements and used the word "Prostitute Factory" to sing a song. The points are as follows.

whore? He managed tens of thousands of prostitutes in Chengdu, set up a red light district, made prostitutes legal, and donated flowers. Send police to guard Tianya Stone Street and Maojiaguai Street, and forbid local ruffians and hooligans to make trouble and young children to make mistakes. At the same time, private prostitution is prohibited and offenders are punished.

factory? Many charitable factories have been set up, including spinning mills, paper mills, children's education factories, beggar factories, and hospitals for the elderly, the weak and the sick.

? Sing? The tea garden theater introduced earlier, called Yuelai, was built with his support. At the same time, a drama improvement association was established, and he personally reviewed the Sichuan drama program and organized the literati to revise the script.

field? The commercial market has promoted the industry and commerce in Chengdu, which has made Chengdu people feel refreshed. Destroyed by fire in 1917, see Ba Jin's novel Home. After the original restoration, a new venue, Yuelai Stadium on the right and a new venue on the left, was opened, and it was lively for many years. There was another fire in 1933. The cause of the fire, my mother said, was that someone threw a cigarette butt and fell into the basket with wood shavings, which made him feel helpless. After that, I reluctantly repaired it and did not return to the old concept. There are no more shops upstairs, and there is no more pomp downstairs. White Rose Tea Hall and Yichun Bathroom were opened in Yuelaichang on the right, and Er Quan Tea Hall and Daguangming Hairdressing Hall were opened in Xinjichang on the left, which showed the change of the world.

in the eyes of teenagers in the county, I think the business market is prosperous enough. I'm here for the first time to "admire" luxury goods such as glass silk stockings, Hong Kong celluloid mahjong tiles, and Shanghai Chlo? dan lipstick. Looking at the sky-high price of the label, it is astounding, but it is known that the gap between the rich and the poor is so. Nowadays, the old market is too small to exist, and the four-story reinforced concrete building in front of us is already the fourth commercial market, which has lost its charm.

The south exit of the commercial field is diagonally opposite to the north exit of Chunxi Road. Chunxi Road was newly built in 1924, later than the commercial market. The road is divided into north, south, east and west sections. The four sections are combined into the center of the bustling block. People in the county don't go to Chengdu, but say "go to" Chengdu. When you come to Chengdu, take a trip to Chunxi Road if you have anything to do, otherwise you won't be in Chengdu. It can be seen that Chunxi Road is the object of some people's psychological needs. I came to Chengdu to attend high school, needless to say, I have to go to Chunxi Road on weekends. Since 1951, it has become a habit to take a walk to Chunxi Road after work and have dinner. Today's Chunxi Road has luxurious buildings and brilliant night lights. In the past, Chunxi Road was as exquisite as a pearl and as ethereal as a dream. "Distance is beautiful", this is it.

Play with pearls and dream, and walk into the north section of Chunxi Road. As a middle school student, I turned a blind eye to those silks and satins, Yangguang department store, ginseng antler Yangui, restaurant teahouse, and watch the interesting ones. Into the north section of the street, the right stone counter knife scissors shop, a wide variety of knives, ancient magic, exquisite and beautiful. The signboard is "Liao Guangdong" and the products are made locally. There is a blacksmith's furnace under the suburban township, making all kinds of knives, which are bought by Liao Guangdong and put on the counter here. Linqiong iron forging machine has long been famous in Qin and Han dynasties, so it is natural to be "Guangdong". When Wen Weng ruled Shu in the Western Han Dynasty, the first batch of international students went to Chang 'an for further study. They carried Shu cloth and book knives (two famous products) and went to Chang 'an to sell money to pay tuition fees. Book knives belong to stationery and are used to scratch and correct bamboo slips. The vertical knife on the right side of the word is the book knife. It is said that this knife shop is "ancient and magical", according to this. Knife and scissors shop is adjacent to a small shop in the south, and it is also very impressive to hang and sell Chinese and foreign maps. It is also adjacent to the World Bookstore in the south, which is very narrow. It is also adjacent to Timely Watch Glasses Company in the south. Punctuality is on time, referring to clocks and watches. It is adjacent to Chunxi Hotel (hotel) in the south and has never been inside. Next to a high-end hairdressing salon in the south, the cabinet