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Why are some restaurants in Fuzhou called shabby restaurants?

The earliest shabby shop became famous because the tables, chairs, chopsticks and spoons were all broken and the hoof meat was delicious. Since Zhuzifang was not allowed to open a shop, the original four shabby shops have all moved out. Now more and more shabby shops are opening in Fuzhou.

I don’t know which one is the most authentic. Personally, I think the one on Marshal Road is pretty good.