The Times of Eating Goods

A feature manuscript

I have seen the Legend of the Condor Heroes by Jin Yong's father before, and I was deeply impressed by one detail in it, that is, Guo Jing and Huang Rong met for the first time in Zhangjiakou, jing elder brother invited Rong Er to dinner, and Huang Rong was honest and impolite, and ordered a table of delicious food.

Huang Rong (teacher Liu Mintao): "Hey buddy, four dried fruits, four fresh fruits, two salty and sour fruits and four candied fruits first. There are no fresh fish and shrimp here for appetizers. Well, let's have eight so-so dining tables. "

Shop Assistant: "What does the guest officer like to eat?"

Huang Rong (teacher Liu Mintao): "The eight dining tables are: boiled quail with flowers, fried duck's paw, chicken tongue soup, Jiang Yao stuffed with deer belly, fried beef tendon with mandarin duck, shredded chrysanthemum rabbit, sauteed legs, and gold and silver hooves with ginger vinegar. I'll only pick some expensive dishes that you can do here, so we won't have to. "

Shop assistant: "These eight dishes are not cheap. Just duck feet and chicken tongue soup, you have to use dozens of chickens and ducks."

Huang Rong pointed to Guo Jing and said, "Don't you think he can't afford it?"

When the bartender saw that Guo Jing was like a local tyrant, he stopped saying anything. Soon, fruits, preserves, dining tables and other delicacies were brought to the table one by one. Everything Guo Jing tasted was delicious.

Some of these tables and drinks ordered by Huang Rong were made up by Jin Yong's father, and some of them were really the delicacies of the Song Dynasty, such as "Flower Cooked Quail" and "Chicken Tongue Soup", all of which were top-notch dishes in the Song Dynasty. At the beginning of the Southern Song Dynasty, Zhang Jun, one of the "Four Famous Stars of ZTE" and as famous as Yue Fei, once invited Song Gaozong to dinner in the mansion, and the first kind of snacks should be "flowers for cooking and quails". I guess, this "flower cooking quail" is probably braised quail.

In the Northern Song Dynasty, Lv Yijian, the prime minister, liked to eat "chicken tongue soup" very much, a soup with chicken tongue as the main raw material. After getting up every day, he had to drink a bowl of "chicken tongue soup". One day, Lv Yijian visited his back garden and found a small hill piled up in the corner, so he called a servant to ask questions.

Lv Yijian: "Hey, Xiao Lu, who made this mountain bag?"

assume: "Hui Xianggong, this is not a mountain bag, but chicken feathers left by killing chickens in the kitchen."

Lv Yijian: "Why did the kitchen kill so many chickens?"

assume: "because" xianggong "you have to eat chicken every day."

Lv Yijian: "Nonsense! How many chickens can I eat alone? "

assume: "a chicken has only a small tongue, so how many chickens does it take to kill a bowl of chicken tongue soup?"

Lv Yijian was so ashamed that he stopped eating "chicken tongue soup" from now on.

Father Jin Yong should have seen this story, so he wrote "Chicken Tongue Soup" in The Legend of the Condor Heroes. It would be more interesting if Jin Yong could write all the eight dishes ordered by Huang Rong into famous dishes in the Song Dynasty. It's not difficult to do this, because the notes of Song people recorded a lot of delicious food, and the luxurious banquet that Zhang Jun invited Song Gaozong to dinner mentioned earlier also left a menu.

what exactly did you eat at that meal? Let me introduce you: before the tables are served, two rounds of pre-dinner snacks are served. The first round of pre-dinner snacks includes fruit plates, dried fruit plates, candied fruit, salty and sour, preserved meat and pickled products; The second round of pre-meal snacks includes sliced fruits, fresh fruits, candied fruits, salty and sour fruits, preserved fruits and preserved products.

the appetizer was used before the formal appetizer was served. I drank fifteen glasses of wine in this meal, and each glass of wine has two dishes, so there are thirty tables in one * * *, such as mutton tongue sign, palm sign, dairy sign, three crisp soup, quail soup, crab clear soup, blood powder soup, jellyfish soup, quail crystal soup, five precious soup and fresh soup.

While drinking, we served seven meals, mainly barbecues, ten snacks and ten "chef's wine-persuading dishes", which is probably the food with wine specially recommended by the chef.

I haven't finished yet. After dinner, there are two rounds of after-dinner snacks, including honey fried, salty and sour, fashionable and preserved, and so on. Zhang Jun's guest is the emperor, and it is understandable that the dishes are so rich.

can ordinary citizens eat so much delicious food when they go to restaurants? Yes. The premise is that you can afford the price. In the metropolis of Song Dynasty, the general food stalls can provide a variety of dishes, such as braised pork soup, bone soup, hoof soup, pig bone soup, fish spicy soup, chicken soup, mixed soup, north and south soup, and fried meat, liver, frozen fish, frozen meat, fried duck, fried fish, etc. These are all home-cooked meals.

A high-end restaurant attracts diners with rich dishes, including hot dishes, cold dishes and cold dishes. The dishes are rich, and customers can choose from them. If you order a famous dish in Song Dynasty Hotel, but the waiter tells you that the restaurant can't make it, you can complain to the shopkeeper about the waiter and chef.

In the Song Dynasty, cooking techniques such as frying, roasting, frying, frying, boiling and steaming were mature. The same ingredient can be fried, steamed, boiled, fried, pickled and eaten raw. Different cooking techniques can make different foods with different flavors.

Mutton and other ingredients are chopped, wrapped in pig net oil and fried. People in Song Dynasty called this kind of food "signing vegetables".

People in the Song Dynasty called the pickled food "Fu". Mutton, fresh fish, shrimps and crabs, chickens and ducks, birds and goose feet can all be pickled into "Fu". There was a delicious pickled food in the Song Dynasty, which was called "Xuan Fu", which means "Xuan, Xuan, Xuan". It was a kind of delicious food that was eaten immediately after being pickled with salt, distiller's grains and other seasonings, similar to the raw pickled blood clams and raw pickled shrimps in Cantonese cuisine today.

people in the song dynasty also liked to make fresh fish and meat into preserved meat. what is preserved meat? Is sashimi, raw meat slices, this food was introduced to Japan, became Japan's "sashimi".

in the song dynasty, people developed rich ingredients, which grew in the ground, ran in the mountains and swam in the sea, all of which were gifts from nature. The favorite ingredients of Song people are probably crabs and mutton.

(Teacher Liu Mintao): "People in Song Dynasty liked to make crabs into' crab raw'."

(voice over): "What is a crab?"

(Teacher Liu Mintao): "Chop raw crabs, soak them in hot sesame oil once, and when they are cooled, add fennel, pepper powder, ginger, pepper and other condiments, add onion, salt, vinegar and wine, mix well, and marinate for a while before eating."

(voice over): "Kind of like raw pickled crabs now?"

(Miss Liu Mintao): "Yes. People in the Song Dynasty also called this dish' hand washing crab'. "

People in Song Dynasty also loved to eat mutton. A Song poem said, "Life is a little rich, and I want to live in Yingkou. Buy fish for mandarin fish, and buy meat for mutton. " In the eyes of people in Song Dynasty, the most delicious meat is mutton.

even the royal meals eaten by the royal family in the imperial palace are mainly mutton. People in the Song Dynasty said that the royal family "eats mutton without expensive smell, and the royal chef only uses mutton". In the Northern Song Dynasty, the Imperial Restaurant in Oi, Tokyo consumed 431,111 Jin of mutton every year, while the consumption of pork was only over 4,111 Jin. It can be seen how much the royal family in Song Dynasty loved mutton.

However, what impressed me the most was not the richness of food in the Song Dynasty, but that there was an emperor in the Song Dynasty who kept a rare restraint in the face of the temptation of food. The Emperor of the Song Dynasty is Song Renzong.

once, a banquet was held in the palace, and there was a dish at the banquet, which was steamed crabs, 28 of them. At that time, crabs had just come into the market, and the chef knew that Song Renzong liked crabs, so he sent people to the streets to buy a small basket. Renzong looked at the crabs at the dinner table and asked, "New crabs? I haven't eaten it this year. I wonder how much it costs? "

The left and right replied, "As long as the money is consistent."

Emperor Injong immediately pulled down his face and said, "I have warned you many times not to eat so luxuriously. A crab has always been rich, and when this chopstick comes down, it takes 28 passes. " Resolutely do not eat crabs.

On another occasion, Song Renzong went to the early court and looked very ugly. The minister asked, "Is your majesty unwell?"

renzong: "nothing, just a little tired, it won't matter."

when the minister heard this, he thought that the emperor was addicted to beauty, exhausted himself, and was afraid of medical treatment. He gently reminded Injong: "There is a knife on the head of the color, your majesty should pay attention to your health and' maintain the holy bow'."

When Injong heard this, he couldn't help laughing: "You and others have a wrong idea. There is no such thing. I was just hungry and insomnia last night. "

The minister was surprised: "Insomnia? What's going on? "

renzong: "I was a little hungry last night. I wanted to eat roast mutton. The more I thought about it, the hungrier I thought about it. As a result, I couldn't sleep."

Minister: "Why don't you ask the chef to cook it?"

renzong: "I didn't know I could ask the chef to make it. However, according to our ancestors' family law, there has never been a practice of serving roast mutton at night. I don't want to break this case. Once this case is broken, I don't know how many sheep will be slaughtered at night. Therefore, I would rather endure it. "

the minister was deeply moved. Seriously, I'm a little emotional, too. Faced with the temptation of delicious food, it is rare for a person to control his mouth and resolutely not eat it. It is worth studying hard by friends who are overnourished and want to lose weight today.