Stewing is a continuation of the northern farming civilization. The north is not as rich as the south, and it is not as easy to get fresh and rich meat as fishing, hunting and nomadic people. It will cherish food more, including animal internal organs.
Now, you already know two important characteristics of braised pork. First of all, it belongs to an important food of old Beijingers. Secondly, it is made of animal viscera, because you can never mention its name in a Muslim restaurant, then you will know that it is made of pig viscera. So, how did the stew come from?
Many years ago, I went to eat pot-stewed with a history teacher of Peking University and talked while eating. He gave me an idea: earlier, there was a land outside the front door for the camel team to rest. These people don't have much money to eat and drink in restaurants. They usually set up cans that they need to carry with them in the rest place, and then buy some cheap intestines and lung heads from the surrounding shops. People on the road always bring some dead cakes to make dry food. In order to taste better, they also cut them into pieces and cooked them. Soybean tofu and leek flowers are mixed together, and such a big bowl is sold with two horns of white wine, which is in line with the sandstorm outside Beijing in the past, with a little primitive satisfaction in the vicissitudes of life.
I like that. As for whether it really belongs to a part of history, it doesn't seem so important, because it has the romanticism of desert sunset, and it has also laid the civilian color of cooking from the beginning. However, with the in-depth understanding of the origin of braised pork, people found that it actually came from the superstructure.
Yi Ehao, the Japanese wife of Pu Jie Aisingiorro, once wrote a book "Diet in the Palace", in which she mentioned a dish called "Su Zao rou". This dish is made of the first-class pork belly and nearly ten kinds of spices, and is specially made by chef Zhang Dongguan for Ganlong. Because Zhang Dongguan is from Suzhou, this dish is called Su Zao Meat, and the soup in cook the meat is called Su Zao Soup. After a long time, the children of the Eight Banners gradually liked this bite, and the meat produced in Suzhou also spread outside the palace and began to be appreciated by diners in Beijing.
The torrent of history is the most powerful promoter of things change, and food is no exception. With the decline of the children of the Eight Banners, good pork is too expensive for them to eat. At this time, shops that used to operate Suzhou-made meat began to cook inexpensive pig's head meat, even very cheap small intestines and lung heads, and used slightly simplified Suzhou-made soup to satisfy these struggling flag-bearer children. In this way, "Su Jujube Meat" is no longer as expensive as it was at first, but has become a "braised taste" that most civilians can afford.
Economic benefits do not mean that a bowl can meet the physical consumption of half a day's work, so fire has become the best match. As a kind of dry food, vermicelli is dry and difficult to burn, and it is not resistant to cooking. Put it in a pot and cook it with the small intestine, lung head and tofu foam to absorb the thick soup. The entrance is still stiff. In this season, it will definitely bring the workers a day's satisfaction and warm their body and mind.
Don't burn. A bowl of small intestine, lung head and tofu is called "dish bottom". The taste is slightly heavy, but salty. If you like one of them, or have requirements for cooking time, be sure to tell those guys who are busy with big cases, and usually they will meet these requirements of the guests. After all, whether the guest is a civilian or the president of the United States, popular food needs some tacit understanding and understanding between the guest and the store.