No matter which direction you come from, when you arrive at Xidan archway, in autumn and dusk, the first thing you smell is the smell of the street. The smell of fried chestnuts permeates the bustling crowd, so hurry to see the familiar place. Lan Hao's buddy is frying chestnuts in front of the door. Helan is selling western pastry, and fried chestnuts are not famous, but because it is on the street corner, it is the most eye-catching and I can't help but go in and buy it.

Come to a catty! Hot chestnuts have just been fried, wait, pour them into the basket and sift out the sand wrapped in sugar juice. When the package was weighed, another fragrance floated by. On the fruit stand on the street corner, dates, grapes, begonia, persimmons, pears and pomegranates are readily available. Most of the fragrance comes from pears and grapes. Grapes in Sha Ying are yellow and transparent, with two petals sticking out and no water flowing, so they have the nickname of "rock candy bag". Pak Lei in Beijing is thin and tender, with no dregs at all. Duck width is as soft as tofu. Jujube is the most common fruit, and Langjiayuan is the most famous producing area, so there is no such thing as Langjiayuan. Tiger eye, gourd jujube and jujube have their own shapes and tastes. "Persimmon with honey juice" will wait until winter, when green and crispy persimmons are on the market in autumn, and the crispy persimmons will be sweeter when piled high. Haitang was half red, and pomegranate smiled and showed a row of pink teeth. These are the fruits of autumn.

Holding a bag of hot chestnuts and some fruits, I walked from Xidan to Xuanwumen, thinking of going home and lying on the Eight Immortals table in front of the window. In the twilight, with a little light, the family sat around happily, peeling these delicious foods, and my pace could not help but accelerate. There is a jingling tram behind him, and the No.5 bus is coming to the end of Xuanwu Gate. After passing the Wool Hutong, the smell of barbecue wafted in the air again. It is a low and narrow barbecue room in An 'er Hutong.

There is a Muslim sign in front of the door. They are one of many famous Muslim restaurants in Beiping. Since autumn, Beijing has been dominated by Muslim restaurants. A short and fat young man is cutting a box of beef and mutton and greeting his brother and boss at the door seat. His two sons are healthy and bright-eyed, fully demonstrating the spirit of Muslim youth, and are helping and learning the techniques of picking and cutting meat. The smoke on the baking tray darkens the originally unknown lamp, but in this low, smoky hut, there is another warm and cordial feeling, which makes people want to go in and stand by the baking tray and lift two big chopsticks.

The fifth is fairness, so it gives people a particularly cordial feeling. It used to be just a steamed bun shop selling some mutton buns to nearby residents and passing workers. Gradually, barbecue became famous, but it did not change the attitude towards customers. For example, they only have two cooks, but they can only surround one or twenty people. But at dusk, groups of guests came, and there was no place to sit, so they couldn't eat for a while. Old five will tell the guest that after 20 or 30 minutes, the guest will go around Xidan archway and come back. Not registered, but they remember the order of first come, first served. There is no hurry, it is impossible to cut in line, everything is arranged by the old man. He doesn't make any difference, because tourists take cars or pull rickshaws. This is his fairness and kindness.

It is the skill and art of the fifth person to cut meat in his hand and settle accounts in his mouth. A bowl of meat, a plate of onion and a cucumber, he sang the money one by one, and the price was fair. There, although the house is small, it is very comfortable to eat. Old five doesn't laugh much, but he gives you a simple feeling and won't feel irritating to eat there.

In autumn, the old capital of the north, the fragrance of beef, mutton and fried chestnuts can best represent the change of seasons.