What should you pay attention to when training myna to speak?

1. Avoid teaching ambiguous pronunciation when training speech

When training myna to speak, you must train in a quiet room to avoid noise. It is easy to hinder the myna's verbal memory. In addition, avoid teaching difficult or ambiguous pronunciations. It is better to teach some clean and crisp words.

2. Teach the myna to speak when it is hungry

It takes about 10 days to teach the myna to speak a sentence. The training period is roughly half a year after it moults. Its memory is particularly good. It is best to train it after bathing it or on an empty stomach. Training for women or children with high pitches is better than training for people with lower ranges.

3. Insist on feeding the baby starling on the palm of your hand, so that it becomes dependent on your hand from an early age.

4. When the young myna can walk, start training it to jump to your hand to find food. The method is to call Xiaoba's name while luring him with food when he is hungry. Pet it while feeding it so that when it grows up, you can gently pet it with your hands and it will not run away. Create a fixed conditioned reflex.

5. When Xiaoba can basically fly, he has also developed certain habits. Then use a small insect to make it fly to your hand and eat it. After a period of training and the foundation laid in childhood, Xiaoba will be very obedient. No matter you extend your hand or call its name, Xiaoba will fly over obediently.

The third stage: highlighting the theme of language training

⑴ This stage lasts for about 2 months (that is, 3 to 4 months after the bird is born). The crown feathers (crest) begin to grow in the last month, indicating that the bird's growth is about to enter the youth stage. Teaching language is a very important period of enlightenment, which will lay a good foundation for future training, so at this stage I focused on language teaching.

I conducted a comparative experiment in two groups. One group started listening to recordings every day from mid-August (after two months of age), and the other group started from mid-August (after three months of age). Play "Welcome" repeatedly no less than three times a day for no less than an hour each time. And insist on playing when the starlings are hungry before giving them feed.

⑵ I originally expected that these mynas would be able to talk along with the recording, so I did not teach face-to-face teaching until the beginning of November. Later, I discovered the voice of a myna talking, and decided to start face-to-face teaching.

The effect is quite satisfactory. I learned to say hello the same day I got the first one at my mother’s house! Then I took out more than 10 of them one after another, and they all learned to say hello within 1 to 2 days, and learned to say welcome after a few days.

Although there was no difference in the comparison test, I found that early education in talking to starlings is particularly important.

In addition, up to now (mid-January 2004), I have been counting the time spent teaching myna to speak in each batch, and I was pleasantly surprised to find that the most sensitive period for myna to learn to speak is when they are growing their crests. 〕After that, that is the period when the myna is 4 to 6 months old! If this time is missed, it will take a relatively longer time for the myna to learn to speak, although it still listens to the recording every day.

⑶Time and methods for language training:

The morning and evening every day are definitely a good time, especially when the starlings are competing to chirp. After listening to the recording, I will imitate the yee yeh before the next sentence of the recording is spoken. So based on this situation, I chose the time to play the recording and the interval between each sentence.

When teaching talking face to face, at first as long as the myna pays attention, I will give it bugs after telling it a few times. Every time the myna answers, I will promptly reward the bug. I rarely just talk but don’t give bugs to mynas, or I don’t reward mynas when they react.

I have found in practice that using talking mynas to teach dumb mynas is much faster than teaching face to face. Therefore, I recommend buying at least two mynas. This can save you a lot of time and energy in teaching mynas to speak.

It is a common regret among people that the myna's voice is not as loud as that of the myna. I have made many careful observations and inquiries and have personal experience. I think this problem is caused by the speaker's voice not being raised high.

I once saw three starlings who could only speak about 10 to 20 sentences. One was raised and taught by an old couple; one was raised by an old couple and taught to speak with their grandson; and one was young. Raised and taught by humans.

The first one has a very low voice; the second one has a very high voice if it does; and the third one doesn't have a low voice.

So I always teach mynas in a loud voice. Training requires patience and persistence. It is not advisable to be hot and cold, near and far. Although starlings have different qualities and vary greatly in learning to speak, there is no case where one of them cannot speak. Besides, efforts from external factors may also prompt the myna to activate its inherent potential in this area. Moreover, mynas also have the same phenomenon of "speech delay" as humans, so we should not give up on language training of mynas easily.

Frankly speaking, we have to admit that there is a series of "unique skills" in training birds to talk. The eighth generation descendant of the "Palace Bird Taming Master" was invited from Tianjin to Chengdu on the eve of the National Day the year before last. In just a few days, he taught a Thai myna how to say a few words. Unfortunately, the "unique skill" has only been passed down from generation to generation, and the majority of bird raising enthusiasts can only try it out. I believe that this "unique skill" is constantly being improved, otherwise it will have no vitality. In today's information age, it won't be too far away when the mystery of the "unique skill" is completely solved.

Before teaching, the myna must be able to live stably in a cage or on a shelf, be less easily frightened and tame, and be willing to approach people. Myna must be tame enough that a person's hand can touch its head or back, and it will not fly away when you let go of its anklets. The teaching effect of myna is best when it reaches this level.

Training methods

1. Training starlings to learn words must start with young birds. Let the young birds out of the cage for about 15 minutes each time, and put some food that the birds like to eat around the cage. Repeat the training many times (in summer, it can be in the morning and evening when the climate is cool, and in winter, it is better at noon, but the climate in the north is cold, so winter is more difficult. The purpose is to achieve the reflex conditions for young birds to enjoy food when they leave or enter the cage. From learning to flying, the reflex conditions are basically consolidated at this stage. After the training is more than half successful, you should pay attention to it every time you let it fly out of the cage. Reduce fright, and do not stay in the cage for a long time, which will affect the reflex consolidation results. After the cage entry and exit training is successful, don’t forget to put a few insects in the cage for rewards.

2. The best time is early morning. Good, because the chirping of birds is most active in the early morning, when the birds are not full yet, and the teaching effect is good.

3. The environment should be quiet, without any noise or conversation, otherwise it will easily distract the birds. It will also cause the bird to learn sounds that it should not learn. Therefore, it is best to choose to teach in a quiet room. 4. Choose a simple short name at the beginning, such as "Hello". , "Welcome", "Goodbye", "Thank you", etc. Pay attention to the pronunciation accurately, clearly and slowly, do not use dialect, it is best to use Mandarin. Repeat the same words as the teacher every day, and consolidate them after learning. The audio recorder will play better and save more effort. Generally, the bird can learn to say one sentence after being taught it for about a week. If it can learn to say it, it will be consolidated for a few days, and then the second sentence can be taught to the bird that is more responsive. During the teaching period, the bird should not be allowed to hear boring or inappropriate sentences. The bird's learning language is particularly sensitive for a short period of time, and it is easy to imitate various external sounds at this time. You should seize it in time and make good use of it.

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< p>Newbie literacy, a brief discussion on the training and training of first-time Xiaoba.

My understanding of male and female is that it is the nature of the bird to show love, so it is time to learn language. Later, it was emphasized that the female is more reserved and timid, so it is better to domesticate and breed the male. The key depends on whether you want a talker or an obedient one.

About feeding:

When I got the chicks, they were just over 10 days old and had just fledged. The boss raised a large group of them and started to scream as soon as I reached out.

It is recommended that novices pick up birds at this time, because when they are in the down period or before their eyes are opened, the birds are too fragile and it is difficult to distinguish whether they are good or bad. They may die young or be permanently disabled at first if they are not fed properly.

Throw the box away after 3 days and feed it when called. At this time, you will not be able to eat or drink water, so you must use a straw, syringe, eye drop bottle, etc., and be sure to use cooked water for feeding. , mix until soft like wet noodles, and knead into the thickness of earthworms. Give some water before feeding, because it is not wrong to drink too much water. In addition, it is difficult to feed my birds when they are full of food and will not open their mouths. Can choose their own food and water.

It will shake its head when offered water.

Practice can already start from this stage. Put the bird on your arm when feeding and watering. Over time, you will naturally get started and there is no need to spend time training later. This is a key step.

After 3 days, it will fly low and then enter the cage. The crossbar can be removed before entering the cage. Birdie's legs are not strong enough, and he has a natural tendency to jump around on the backswing, which is very likely to break his legs. Must be covered. No matter day or night, as long as you want him to sleep or be quiet and shrouded, it is the only way.

There are three key signals in growth:

1. It can jump low and fly, and can enter the cage.

2 The eye mask turned obviously white (it seemed to have changed overnight. When I came to my house, there was no eye mask at all. I wondered if it was myna. Then one day I woke up and saw the white eye mask). It can basically be cultivated. It drinks water by itself, feeds a small amount of water, and forces it to drink water from the water tank. Dip some water in the water tank with your hand and touch it on his mouth. After a few times, he will drink water.

3. If it often pecks things with its mouth, you can start training it to eat dry food. When he screams from hunger, put some dry food in your hand, taste a few grains in your hand first, then ignore him and keep them in your hand. If he is hungry, he will eat them by himself. After eating a few mouthfuls, continue feeding soft food as usual until full. Slowly increase the frequency of eating dry food, and over time you will switch to dry food.

The water tank in the cage must be changed every day, and it must be changed immediately if feces falls.

So is the food tank!

About the bird's schedule:

Usually around 7 pm, sleep around 5-6 am, and wake up. Feed as soon as you wake up. It is dangerous to be hungry after 9 o'clock. Generally, after a few days of persistence, as the baby grows up and becomes stronger, he can be fed again at 9-10 o'clock. Be sure to eat a full meal before going to bed.

My baby is sleeping at 10pm every day now. He has no problem sleeping, so I feed him until 10pm, and he goes to sleep when I sleep. I didn’t feed him until after 9 o’clock in the morning when I woke up. But it’s best to get up early in the morning and feed it to make it grow better.

About training:

In fact, personally, I really hope that he will eat by himself before he has completed all the training courses. Because only when you are tempting him when eating, will he be obedient and domestication possible. And it’s a long process that requires extreme patience.

There are many courses on specific domestication that you can refer to the experience of others. Fly, release, talk, etc.

It is important to mention here that if you put the baby bird on your hand when feeding, over time, it will have the habit of crawling onto your hand when it wants to eat. In addition, if you don't use your hand, you won't feed it, so that it knows that it can only eat food when it is on your hand. I don’t dare not get started in the future, but this is a stalemate stage and very time-consuming. So try to let him be hungry before you pay attention to him, and don't feed him whenever he barks.

Release is also a matter of patience. It is not recommended to release the bird. At least wait until the eye mask turns yellow before releasing it in the wild. Of course, you can fly it freely at home or in a controllable space, no matter how big or small. The reason is that you are afraid of losing the bird. Because the bird's wings are not strong enough, sometimes it flies out out of curiosity and is unable to return. It often stops at a high place and cannot fly down, nor can you climb up. A stalemate wastes time, and the bird can easily get lost. Before releasing it, it must be placed in a cage and hung outside the window to allow it to fully adapt to the surrounding environment. It will be much easier if you practice more at home until he is about 1 year old, and there will be plenty of time to get started with training in the room.

Bird’s bath:

Bathing may sound complicated but is actually simple. I haven’t bathed him specifically since I bought it. Only once in a while did I accidentally throw it in the basin when I was washing the cage. I haven't given him a bath since. Until one day when it was hot, I took it out to dry in the sun all morning. At noon, I saw a very strange drinking action and repeated it. The action is to keep shaking after the head enters the water, and the wings also keep shaking. Because I have raised tiger skin before, I probably know the action of bathing. I took half a basin of water and made a loud splash to attract his attention. After more than 10 minutes, he got into the water by himself. After getting into the water, he kept washing with him and splashing water on him. As long as you wash it for the first time and then add a few water, it will go in by itself. The key is patience + time. Just be patient and give him some time and he will accept it quickly.

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Artificial breeding

For domestic starlings, use tall starling cages and raise more male birds. The best effect is to start raising the young birds. The feed for starlings is preferably eggs and rice.

The preparation method of egg rice is: put the rice into the pot, stir-fry over low heat until it is yellow but not burnt, pour it into a basin, mix the stirred raw egg liquid into the rice while it is hot, stir well, and break it after cooling. Just rub it into pieces. Generally, 4 to 6 eggs are added per kilogram of rice, and appropriate amounts of ants, skin worms, lean pork shreds, tender vegetables, bananas, etc. are added. Starlings have strong digestive power and a large appetite.

Starlings like water baths and can often sing while bathing in the water. They do this once a day or every other day in summer. The number of baths is appropriately reduced in spring and autumn, and they rarely bathe in water in winter. When taking a water bath, always put the cage into a basin and add clean water into the basin. The water depth should reach about the upper joint of the starling's metatarsal bone. The water temperature should not be too low.

Starlings are born in the south and are naturally afraid of cold. Therefore, the birdcage must have a cage cover and be hung indoors at night. It cannot be hung in a passage with cold wind. In winter, you must always keep warm and let the starlings bask in the sun on sunny days. sun.

Training

Generally, training starts from young birds, preferably after the first time they change their feathers.

3.2 Learning human language: Teach the myna to learn human language after twisting the tongue. When training mynas to learn human language, you should choose a secluded place and do it on an empty stomach in the morning and evening. When training, you must first cultivate the relationship between birds and people, and spend more time with birds. The training content should be from simple to complex. Simple words such as "hello" and "goodbye" should be taught first, and longer sentences can be taught later. Food must be used as bait during training; trainers must speak clearly and pronounce words accurately and coherently. When a myna learns human language, its pronunciation and pronunciation cannot be as clear as a human's. Therefore, during training, the requirements for its pronunciation cannot be strict. Once it learns the first sentence, it will become easier in the future. It will be better if you use myna who can already speak human language to teach. After the myna learns human language, people should often tease it with its teachings to consolidate its achievements. After all, starlings are animals and are slow to learn human language. Trainers must be meticulous and patient and avoid being rough, otherwise all efforts will be wasted.

3.3 Flying: After being trained to fly, the myna can obey the owner's commands or gestures. Wherever the owner goes, it will fly with it. The first step of release training is to train the myna to enter and get into the cage (putting on and off the cage when raising). The method is to first put no feed in the cage to make it hungry, and then put the feed on the bamboo slices and extend it into the cage to feed. After the bird gets used to this feeding method, slowly move to the cage door to feed, let the bird stand at the cage door, extend the feeding bamboo piece from the back of the cage, make the bird eat with its head toward the inside of the cage and its tail toward the outside of the cage. The action consolidates for a few days. The second step is to release the bird in a closed room. After letting it fly for a period of time, move the cage closer to the bird, and then insert the bamboo piece into the cage from behind to attract food and make it jump back into the cage. After 1 to 2 days, there is no need to move the cage closer to the bird, and it will be able to fly high and far away. The release time for starlings should not be too long, usually 12 to 15 minutes, and they should not be fed too full when released.

feed. Duck eggs are available in summer. Give myna powder twice a day, and grasshoppers, earthworms, lean meat, bananas, vegetables, etc. every other day.

The chicks are fed only tofu within 7 days, and only 10% tofu within 8-20 days. The rest are fed eggs, millet, and a small amount of tender greens, small insects, and water. 21---For 70 days, feed 5% tofu, the rest is eggs, millet, and then feed a small amount of tender vegetables, small insects, and water. The ratio of egg millet to egg yolk millet was changed from 3:1 to 1:1. After 70 days, the ratio of egg yolk to millet was further reduced.

In summer, you can take a water bath every day or every other day. The cage should be cleaned frequently. In winter, you should pay attention to cold protection, bask in the sun more, and cover it with a cage cloth after exposure.

Myna cages include round dome cages, flat-top round cages, vaulted square cages, etc. (the diameter and height are both about 40cm). A jumping stick, a food bowl, and a water bowl are placed in the cage. The bottom of the cage is equipped with a dung board and a bamboo board for holding meat. An outer cage is attached.

After the purchased chicks are fully able to eat, they are fed with cooked eggs, steamed buns, rice, tofu, insects, eels, frogs, beef or lean pork. Live eels and frogs can be chopped into minced meat. Feed 3-5 balls each time until the chick's crop is full. After feeding, use a dropper to suck water and put a little water into its mouth, and feed it every 1-2 hours. The downy chicks can be placed in a cardboard box with some rags in the middle. After feeding, they can be placed in the nest and placed in a dark place. Downy chicks are best fed together in a litter so that they can huddle together for warmth.

Add egg yolk rice and drinking water to the cage every day for the chicks who are already able to eat. The amount should not be too full to prevent the chicks from developing a bad habit of picking up food.

Every morning, hang the birdcage to the window or outdoors. After breathing fresh air for 1-1.5 hours, take it back to the room to rest, eat and drink. At noon, put the bird cage into the water basin. The water should not be too deep. The water surface should be about 5cm from the bottom of the cage and let it bathe in water. The manure-holding board at the bottom of the cage is removed before the water bath. After the bath, the bottom board is added and hung to the window or outdoors to light the cage for 1-1.5 hours before taking it back to the room to rest. In addition to feeding eggs, rice and drinking water, the young chicks also need to be fed some supplementary food such as egg yolks, lean meat, insects, etc. Do not deprive yourself of food or water. When the bird goes out in the cold winter, it should be covered with a cage.

The formula of starling bird feed

There is a kind of chick starter (according to the instructions, it is actually a special feed for one-day-old chicks, with high nutritional content and easy digestion) to make a basic feed dosage of 4 A market pound of 5 yuan; 8 raw eggs are about 2 yuan per market catty; a bag of fish meal (half a market pound) is 3.5 yuan; a bag of beef and mutton meal (pack of 2 ounces) is 2 yuan; a bird feed premix from Beijing Kaiyuan Bag [1 pack] 2.5 yuan; 2 small bags of crushed yeast flakes [50 tablets per bag] 1 yuan; oil crops (raw peanut powder, raw sesame, etc.) 1 pound 3 yuan; cuttlefish bone meal half a pound 4 yuan; crushed That is, a certain amount of eggshells and a certain amount of washed sand; the cost is calculated as 23 yuan, which can be used to prepare more than 7 catties of feed, with an average price of about 3.5 yuan per catty.

Feedback on usage: Customers think that the price of this formulated feed is reasonable and acceptable. Compared with bagged feed, not only is the price lower, but the bird's consumption is significantly reduced. The bird becomes stronger after eating it and no longer specially buys mealworms to feed the birds. Some customers follow my advice and add more raw eggs when they return home. The effect is better and the cost is reduced (the addition ranges from 1 to 2 catties).

Preparation operation: Stir the above feed and auxiliary ingredients evenly, then add the eggs first and mix with a wooden stick. After the feed has slightly penetrated into the eggs, gently rub them into lumps with your hands and dry them for easy storage. To add eggs, the feed must be dried and then added. Be careful not to add more than 4 eggs at a time. If you add more eggs, the feed particles will dissolve into powder.

1. Bird choice

Myna’s feathers are not gorgeous, and their singing voice is not very beautiful, but they are not afraid of people, smart, and good at imitating people’s words. Some people raise starlings just to let them play with others, but most people do it to let them learn to "talk". Therefore, the selection of male and female is not strict. The key is to start raising young birds. But some people think that female starlings are better at imitating than males. According to experience, mynas with jade-white mouth and orange-yellow feet are more "smart" than those with gray-brown mouth and tawny feet.

2. Characteristics of the cage

Birds in the starling family such as starlings and mynas are all large cage birds, so the cage should be larger. Because of its miscellaneous food habits, large food intake, and frequent defecation, the cage should have a bright bottom and a fecal support board underneath. In addition, the myna's mouth is strong, the body is in good shape, and the cage should be sturdy. Generally, it is 48 cm high, 36 cm in diameter, 2.2 cm apart between strips, and 0.4 cm thick. It can be made of bamboo or lead wire (No. 14). There is a shark skin perch, a water tank and a soft food tank, which are deeper, larger and stronger than those of ordinary birds.

3. Feed and feeding methods

Adult birds use eggs and rice as their standing feed. They feed a soft food tank with minced meat, fruits (cut into small pieces), and powder (same as the same) every morning. Thrush) mixed soft food, the amount should be eaten within 1-2 hours. For baby bird food, you can mix powder and minced meat with water or use plantains to make a puree. Feed with pellets, 5-8 times a day. When the bird can feed itself, change to soft food, and add eggs and millet after the feathers have grown.

4. Management and training

Myna’s feces are abundant and smelly, so the bottom of the cage and the feces support board should be cleaned every other day. At the same time, birds should be bathed in water frequently. You can put the myna in a water bath cage and let it bathe on its own, or you can use a watering can to shower, and then dry it in the sun after the water bath. Change the water in the water tank every day, because you often rinse your mouth when eating soft food, which can easily become contaminated.

The best way to teach a bird to "speak" from young to adult is to teach it every morning and evening on an empty stomach, and the surrounding environment should be quiet and free of noise. When teaching, the syllables should be less first and then more. After one sentence is learned, the second sentence should be taught. Every time you "speak" clearly, give the bird the food it likes to eat. Like bananas, insects, etc. It needs to be repeated many times. Generally, it takes 3-7 days to learn one sentence. Those who can learn 10 sentences are excellent.

It is easiest to use an experienced bird that has learned to talk. When teaching, let the bird face the mirror for quick results. As for the idea that starlings must undergo some kind of surgery on their tongues to learn to "speak", there is no scientific basis.

Because the vocal organ of most birds is the "syringe" located at the lower end of the trachea and the branch of the bronchus, and produces sounds by the contraction of the attached muscles, while the human vocal cords are at the upper end of the trachea.

Birds of the starling family such as forest starlings, northern starlings, grey-backed starlings, and black-collared starlings can all be raised by the above method. Pairs are mostly kept in large cages or houses with tree hole nests or wooden nest boxes. Some zoos have successfully reproduced them.

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My feed for raising eight:

Chicken feed is mainly for the chick stage: add an egg yolk to the feed, soak it in warm water, wait until it cools to room temperature, roll it into a ball and feed it to the starlings, feed two at a time, one is half the size of your thumb When it reaches two-thirds of the size, before feeding, moisten the throat of the myna with a brush dipped in water, which will help the starling swallow the feed.

After growing up, feed is still the main food, usually more fruits and vegetables, such as apples (cut in half or diced), green cabbage leaves, tomatoes, watermelon, etc., and lean meat twice a week. Don't feed too much at one time. Birds need to be raised extensively, and if they are fed too well, they will not live long, haha.

Baby bird bathing instructions:

One month later, that is to say, after taking the baby home and raising it for nearly 20 days, when the cut fur has grown all the way, it was the first time that Xiaoba Getting into the water is generally not that smooth, so you can use a method: put the myna in the sun until the myna's mouth opens wide, then release the myna and put water in a basin (all year round All you need to do is use tap water, the myna's ability to adapt is still very strong), if you keep stirring your hands in the water, the myna will jump in curiously. If the first bath doesn't work, don't worry and continue the next day.

Things to pay attention to in daily life:

Do not let the starlings blow air after taking a bath.

If the food or water in the food cup is contaminated by bird feces, Replace them immediately.

In summer evenings, do not place mynas in rooms where mosquito coils are lit or sprayed with mosquito repellents.

Hang the birds as high as possible to prevent Cats and children do anything detrimental to myna.

Do not bathe myna with warm water in winter, as this will make it easier for myna to catch a cold.

Give myna sufficient sunshine time, because there is enough Sunlight is beneficial to the myna's absorption of calcium and is very helpful for the color of the bird's feathers.

If the myna has cold symptoms such as sneezing, don't rush to take medicine. Observe it for a day first. The medicine is three-part toxic. .

Don't scare mynas with sticks or anything like that, if you do. It will take a lot of effort to build a good relationship again in the future.

3. Training before release:

a. Let the myna become familiar with the owner’s voice:

In fact, this is very easy to do. It needs to be done regularly and quantitatively every day. Feed Ba, call him by his name every time you feed him (you should give it a name after you buy it home, right?

Intensive training:

Carry out indoors, Close the doors and windows, and the family can coordinate training. The owner first hides in a place, and the family releases the myna (it is best for the myna to be hungry for one to two hours first). The owner starts to call the myna's name, and the myna will look for the owner. Food, because I have been hungry for two hours. Haha, as long as the myna finds you, give a small amount of food as a reward. It is best to use the myna’s favorite food, such as lean meat, mealworms, etc.

The myna trusts its owner:

The myna is still released from the cage, but you can ask a friend (don’t ask your family to help) to catch your myna on purpose, and then you call the myna’s name at this time. The myna will fly to your shoulder or hand. At this time, you can "retreat" your friend. Your friend can take a few steps back. If you train like this, the myna will generally not leave you very far.

Note: Even if the myna will eat by itself in the future, it should be fed by hand more often.

b. Hands-on training of myna:

When Xiaoba is 25 days old, release the cage, call it by name, and let Xiaoba get on your hand. If it does not If you know how to get started, you can put your hand under the myna's chest and slowly lift it up, and the myna will automatically jump up. At this time, feed the starling. If you practice a few times, the myna will naturally get on your hand.

Note: Never grab your dog with your hands, even if it doesn’t listen to you! ! !

c. Myna’s return training:

Place the cage on the ground, open the cage door, hold the myna’s favorite food, such as mealworms, in your hand and place it at the cage mouth , saying the command "get in the cage, get in", and under the condition of attracting the myna's attention, quickly put your hand behind the cage door. At this time, the mynah will go in, and immediately close the cage door. This can be achieved with multiple trainings Effect.

4. Outdoor training for flying:

Familiarity with the environment:

Take the myna often to a certain place (that is, the place where you plan to fly often in the future), this place There must be certain requirements: there should not be many cats, dogs and other animals, it is best to be in an open square or park, and there should be no high-rise buildings or woods nearby.

Officially start to release in the wild:

Starve the myna for two to three hours in advance, so that the myna is completely hungry. When you open the cage door, the myna may be cautious at first. Come out, don't be in a hurry, if it doesn't come out on the first day, it will continue on the second day, and on the third day... it will come out one day. After the myna comes out, conduct hands-on training in the wild. Call the myna's name. After you get started, you can only Give a small amount of food, and then the owner gently puts the myna on the ground. The owner immediately steps back a few steps (5 meters away), and the myna will immediately fly to you. At this time, you stretch out your hand and let the myna stand on your hand. Go up, give food rewards, then back away further,... Repeat this training, and don't let the myna leave your sight for a long time.

Note: It is best to raise two starlings, one in a cage and the other released, and let them fly in cycles. This will be guaranteed.

In fact, the release of starlings is, to put it bluntly, hungry starlings. If you want the birds to be obedient, you can only use starvation. The method I mentioned also has obvious effects on training wild birds (tried it last year).

As for the supply of feed throughout the year, let me talk about my method:

In spring, the earth returns to spring, and external objects revive. After a winter of feeding, myna returns to normal. For This is the case for Xiongba, because the starling is about to enter the breeding period, so the feed at this time should be fruits and vegetables, with the purpose of reducing sex. You can feed two to three apples, pears, etc. in a week. Feed 2 to 3 peanuts every day. The peanuts should be cut into slices with a knife, then crushed by hand and put into the feed.

In summer, after the artificial decline in spring, the feed should be mainly light, fruits, vegetables, etc. When the temperature is high, the myna can be bathed twice a day to ensure that the myna does not suffer from heat stroke.

In autumn, birds begin to store fat, that is, fat, in preparation for winter. At this time, it is necessary to increase the proportion of oily food, feed more peanuts, meat, and relatively less fruit. Make sure the starlings gain enough weight to survive the winter.

In winter, feed less fatty food, only half of the amount in autumn. Do not let the starlings become too obese in winter, which will be detrimental to the sexual performance of the starlings in spring.

After summer begins, the starlings will enter the moulting period. At this time, the starlings must be given adequate water baths. If the starlings do not want to be washed, do not force them. Increase the amount of vitamin-rich foods such as fruits and calcium. , because the myna consumes a lot of energy during the moulting period.