As a Hakka dish, potted dishes have been around for a long time, and they are also commonly called big dishes. The big dishes originated from the traditional "rich big dishes" of Hakka people. As the name implies, it is to use a big plate to put all the food in it and mix it together to create a unique taste. Rich materials are stacked into the large plate layer by layer, and the most easily absorbed materials are usually placed below. When you eat, you eat one plate at a time, one layer at a time, and the juice is mixed, and the taste is rich and fragrant, which makes people gradually get better. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, the villagers in Xiasha, Shenzhen called potted vegetables "Xin 'an potted vegetables". At that time, eating potted vegetables used a wooden basin to hold vegetables, and a table used a wooden basin, a square table, four benches and a table for eight people, commonly known as "eating potted vegetables". Later, people in Xiasha prospered, their lives became richer and richer, and more and more people made lantern festivals, so they were renamed as "big pots of vegetables". They call the village's potted vegetables authentic with well-preserved workmanship, ingredients and cooking methods. In Wai Village, Yuen Long, Hong Kong, potted vegetables are introduced to the world as local specialty dishes (Wai Village dishes). On the origin of wai village dishes. According to Taoge, a gourmet, Yuen Long Plain is a land of plenty of raw materials. But there are also some little-known reasons. For example, a clan with a little history is well-off, self-sufficient and well-fed. Parents are afraid that the second ancestors will go out and make trouble, so they try to marry their aunts and allow them to smoke cigarettes, so that they can stay at home all day. The young masters stayed at home, of course, thinking about lunch after breakfast and dinner after lunch, which forced the cooks to do their best to make delicious food to satisfy their appetite. Local materials, delicious and varied dishes around the village came into being. Pot dishes are more rustic than the famous "Yipin Pot". The cooking method of the seemingly rough pot dishes is very elegant. They are cooked by frying, frying, burning, boiling, stewing and marinating, and then packed in pots layer by layer. There is even dried Kun inside, which is composed of more than a dozen raw materials such as chicken, duck, fish, oyster, yuba, radish, mushrooms and pork. The way of eating potted vegetables is also in line with the traditional patriarchal clan system of China people. Diners at a table only eat one potted vegetable, which means reunion and auspicious weather. Everyone holding chopsticks, rummaging in the basin, is bound to present an interesting scene, and the deeper the dish in the basin, the more delicious it tastes. Traditional potted vegetables are loaded in wooden pots. At present, most of them are stainless steel pots, and some restaurants use casseroles, which can be heated at any time and have the characteristics of hot pot. What is intriguing is that although the coastal areas of Guangdong, the New Territories of Hong Kong and even Southeast Asia all have the custom of eating potted vegetables, there are probably two versions of the origin of potted vegetables. At the end of the Song Dynasty, Wen Tianxiang, a general, was chased by Yuan soldiers and fled to the beach in Shenzhen (Dongguan at that time) through Lingdingyang. Usually, an article was written as Xin 'an County. In fact, Xin 'an County was located in the first year of Wanli in the Ming Dynasty (1573), not to mention the Song Dynasty, even though it did not appear in the Yuan Dynasty. At that time, it was getting late when Wen Tianxiang landed on the beach, and the troops only brought rice cakes with them and lacked dishes. Wen Tianxiang's state of mind can be imagined: "Fear on the beach says fear, and Lingting talks in the ocean.". The boatmen sympathized with the loyal subjects, and used their own pork, radish, and fish and shrimp caught now. There were not so many dishes on board, so they had to make do with it and bring them out with wooden basins. Wen Tianxiang is a Hakka. Nowadays, most people in Xiasha Village pretend to be Hakkas, so it is not difficult to explain why Hakkas and Xiasha villagers are so enthusiastic about potted dishes. Another version is: At the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, the Emperor of the Song Dynasty fled from the nomads and was stranded in Yuen Long, Hong Kong. Just as his followers were out looking for food, the villagers at that time learned that the emperor was coming, and they donated the most precious food in their homes as a token of their wishes. In a hurry, they filled the utensils with wooden pots and filled them with delicacies, which also made the pot dishes always put the most precious ingredients at the top. However, this legend is just a legend. If you want to study it carefully, there is always something suspicious, because it is disrespectful to use a wooden basin for washing your body as a food container after all, for fear that the people at that time would not be so disrespectful to the emperor. No matter what the historical facts are, as a wonderful flower in the catering industry, potted vegetables are diversified in cooking methods, the structure of ingredients can be changed at will, and the happy and harmonious reunion atmosphere created when enjoying them is all rare in the final analysis. Hakka cuisine Hakka diet can be divided into two categories: one is Hakka cuisine, and the other is Hakka snacks. Hakka cuisine on the list refers to Dongjiang Hakka cuisine, which is called Guangdong's three major cuisines together with Chaozhou cuisine and Cantonese cuisine. Traditional Hakka specialties are: baked chicken with salt, stuffed tofu and braised pork. Compared with Chaozhou cuisine, the taste of Hakka cuisine emphasizes "fat, salty and cooked", which is related to the living standards and habits of Hakka people in the past. First of all, because the Hakkas used to farm and live in the mountains, the labor intensity was high and there was little meat and food, and fatty food could effectively satisfy their hunger; Secondly, Hakka people have to eat porridge at least once a day because of long-term food shortage, and most of them have porridge all the year round, and there is less water. The boiled porridge "blows away a layer of waves and drinks a lane", which is salty and suitable for sending porridge and increasing salt in the body; Thirdly, there are many plants and trees in mountainous areas, and Hakka people have developed the habit of burning wood, and they feel that the more cooked the food, the more fragrant it will be. It is true that the society is constantly changing, and in today's new socialist era, Hakka cuisine is also constantly innovating. The traditional Dongjiang cuisine has gradually formed its own local characteristics in the pots of modern Hakkas, and has the reputation of "original flavor and delicious heart". The original flavor mainly comes from three aspects: first, the selection of materials emphasizes the wild domestic coarse food, that is, the "green food" without pollution. It is worth mentioning that the good quality and taste of these foods have a great relationship with the good ecological environment of Hakka people, especially the good water; Second, the cooking methods are mostly boiling, stewing, steaming and stewing, which do not destroy the nutrition and fiber of food; Third, little or no seasoning is added, and it is generally seasoned with raw onion and cooked garlic. Delicious and delicious, the so-called delicious and delicious, refers to the light taste, affordable price and reconciliation. Its mediating effect is similar to the modern term "dietotherapy". Many Hakka dishes have the functions of nourishing yin and reducing fire, clearing liver and improving eyesight, strengthening waist and tonifying kidney, nourishing face and benefiting qi. At present, in addition to the traditional "old three pieces" of salted chicken, stuffed tofu and braised pork, Hakka dishes are characterized by the following: the steamed chicken is domestic or raised in the mountains with cordyceps grains, and the whole chicken is steamed in a pot with water, torn or cut into six pieces by hand to eat while it is hot, which is very fresh, sweet and tender. According to the data, the amino acid content of this kind of chicken raised by indigenous method is more than 10 times higher than that raised by concentrated feed, which shows that the nutritional value of the base is extremely high. The whole pig package mainly includes eight parts of the most "essence" of pigs, steamed pork red, pork offal, braised pork, etc., with some vegetables and pickled sauerkraut. This way of eating is similar to that of the past, when Hakka people killed pigs during the Spring Festival all the year round. The whole beef set meal is mainly made of tripe hill, leaves of cowherb, top of beef heart and beef bolt. Unlike other places, the leaves of cowherb eaten here have not removed the black film on them, which is said to be mainly for strengthening the stomach. Tofu Package Hakka people made tofu from the habit of packing jiaozi in the Central Plains, and came up with a way to make tofu because they moved to Lingnan without Michael to pack jiaozi. There are various cooking methods for Hakkas to eat tofu. The so-called tofu package includes tofu flowers for pre-meal, fried tofu, tofu pot, tofu balls, glutinous rice tofu, fried tofu skin, and tofu milk for snacks. The wild osmanthus fish, eel and stone catfish larvae in the fresh Wanlv Lake in Xingang Lake are hard and smooth, sweet in taste, and delicious when steamed, stewed or fried. Hakka snacks Hakka snacks are another part of Hakka diet, and they are "good things" that Hakka people can only eat during holidays and weddings and funerals. Almost every snack is related to the farming season, or it reflects a Hakka custom. On the Lantern Festival in the first month, Hakkas always eat soup balls and hang lanterns. There are two kinds of soup pills, salty and sweet, which bodes well for "reunion". It is the custom of Hakkas to send their relatives home for the New Year to travel far away after the Lantern Festival and eating soup pills, expressing their wish that their relatives will be safe outside for one year and come back for reunion at the end of the year. On the Lantern Festival or three days earlier, the families who "added Ding" in the previous year would hang big lanterns on the beams in the central hall of their ancestral houses and invite friends and relatives to come and eat and congratulate them. During this period, the head of household brought the baby boy born last year to pay homage to the ancestral shrine first, and then to the elders, who expressed their wishes to "Li". After that, everyone drank heartily and drank wine, and even if the baby boy officially joined the family, his name was injected into the genealogy. Generally speaking, a son hangs a lantern, and the more lanterns hung in any enclosure, the brighter it will be, indicating that people are prosperous. On February 2nd, I took off the lanterns, burned the couplets and "Li" posted in the New Year, cleaned up and finished the food left over during the New Year, such as rice cakes and flowers, and prepared to do farm work in the spring. During the Qingming period in March, the wild wormwood was tender, so the Hakkas picked it and made it into cakes to eat. Transplanting began after the Qingming Festival, so there is a saying: "Eating wild wormwood will wear your shoulders." In Wanlv Lake Winehouse in Guangzhou, there is also a dish called "wild wormwood fried eggs". According to its boss Zhu, wild wormwood also has the effect of cooling and nourishing. April 8th is also called Water Festival, long summer Festival, because the food eaten on holidays is poor when the appearance is yellow, and most of them are made by mixing Jiemi flour and wheat bran. On May 5th, Dragon Boat Festival, we eat zongzi to commemorate Qu Yuan, and we also eat stuffed bitter gourd and tofu made from freshly harvested soybeans. The harvest of crops in the first half of July 14th and the cultivation in the second half of July 14th have basically ended, and there is an atmosphere of festive harvest and holiday rest. On this day, every household in grinding bean curd eats ducks and fresh peanuts in various ways. Eat moon cakes, stir-fried snails, chestnuts, grapefruit, yamanashi and other fruits and vegetables in the Mid-Autumn Festival on August 15th. Moon cakes and snails all represent reunion, and people who go out to work on this day have to go home for the holidays. In the past, there was a tradition of playing Kongming lanterns for entertainment. The Double Ninth Festival on September is also called Ghost Festival, and the second burial of Hakka ancestors is held on this day. The snack I ate this day was nine layers of skin. There is a saying in the Hakka area on the winter solstice in November called "Winter (Winter Solstice) is a big Chinese New Year (Spring Festival)", which means it is even more grand than the Spring Festival, because the autumn harvest is in winter, the farming has been finished, and the crops have been cultivated for one year, which is rich and gratifying. The snack to eat this day is radish paste. Because the weather is cold and dry at this time, Hakka people prepare for the Spring Festival with preserved pork and pickled vegetables at this time. The preserved pork on this day can be kept for a long time. The Spring Festival (Chinese New Year) began on December 25th, and I was busy preparing food for the Spring Festival and welcoming my relatives who had returned far away. Eat glutinous rice-made oily fruits and large cages during the New Year, as well as Hakka dishes such as braised pork and stuffed tofu. Especially on New Year's Eve, no matter how far away it is, Hakkas have to go home to have a "reunion dinner" and reunite with their relatives.

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