Wang henian

Strange Tales from a Lonely Studio is a familiar supernatural novel that reposes the author's feelings of "loneliness and anger". Among them, "Flower Girl" narrates a love story between An Youyu, a doctor who was born in Bagong, and Flower Girl, a fairy: At a critical moment when An Youyu became ill due to lovesickness, her lover, Flower Girl, came to cure his illness, "and put several steamed cakes on the bed in embroidery, and then quietly left. In the middle of the night, the sweat has been thinking about food, and the cakes are spit. I don't know what the package was, but it was very sweet, so I used up three pieces. " The "steamed cake" mentioned in this article is a customary name for steamed buns in ancient times, but here it clearly refers to a kind of stuffed pasta, which is called steamed buns today. Up to now, in some areas in the south of the Yangtze River, people still call steamed buns steamed buns.

When was the steamed stuffed bun "born"?

Steamed buns are a kind of food filled with fermented bread and steamed in a steamer. Generally, meat, vegetables, sesame seeds and bean paste are used as fillings, and the steamed products are mostly hemispherical in shape, so they are called "China Hamburg". In ancient times, steamed buns and steamed buns were often called "steamed buns". Nowadays, most areas distinguish between steamed buns and steamed buns. Those without stuffing are called steamed buns, and those with stuffing are called steamed buns.

This is the interpretation of the word "Man" in Zhengzitong by Zhang Zilie, a Ming dynasty: "The man who starts with a man says" camel's navel ". Wu Xiahu (eating steroids). ..... the fat of cooked food is also said. " The meaning is very clear. At that time, there were two kinds of steamed bread: one was the "solid steamed bread" mentioned in The Scholars, which is the steamed bread of today; One is what the author calls "the first one", which is filled with stuffing and shaped like a flower at the mouth of the paper. Because the steamed finished product looks soft and fat, the whole shape looks absolutely like the navel of a camel, so it is called "the camel's navel", which is what people call steamed buns today.

Some people say that the name of "steamed stuffed bun" began in the Song Dynasty, and according to the historical data in the appendix of Tang Dynasty's Wei Juyuan's "Recipe", there was a custom of "green purse" in the solar eclipse at that time. A restaurant in Chang 'an named Zhang Shoumei monopolized this seasonal food every day. It can be seen that the name of "steamed stuffed bun" has existed since the Tang Dynasty at the latest, and steamed stuffed bun has become a popular seasonal food.

When did the making of steamed stuffed buns begin? No specific historical data have been found yet, but according to some unofficial history, its appearance seems to be related to Zhuge Liang in the Three Kingdoms period.

In the article "Steamed Bread" in Ji Yuan of Things, the Song Dynasty Gao Cheng quoted a story from unofficial history, a predecessor: When Zhuge Liang levied Meng Huo, he heard that there were many sorceries, and if he wanted to be blessed by God, he would have to sacrifice them first. Zhuge Liang couldn't bear it. "Because of the miscellaneous use of sheep's meat, it is covered with noodles, like a head with a shrine." Later, people will call the pasta made by this method steamed bread. The article "Steamed Bread's Green and White Regiment" in the Seven Revision Manuscripts of Ming Lang Ying has such an interpretation: "It is a rude sacrifice to the gods with a human head, Zhuge Zhi's conquest of Meng Huo, and his life is a sacrifice with bread and meat as the head, which is called' savage head', but now it is called' steamed bread'." However, Gao Cheng is just a legend. Lang Ying is just a further development of Gao Shuo.

Despite this, at the latest in the Jin Dynasty, steamed stuffed buns have come out, but there is no doubt. Pasta appeared in the Warring States Period, and people in the Han Dynasty began to try to make "bread with flour" (today's steamed bread) by fermentation technology, and the stuffed pasta "wonton" also appeared. The emergence of fermentation technology and stuffed pasta provides necessary conditions and reference for the market of steamed buns. In the "Cake Fu" written by Jin people, there is a chant that "when you have a feast, steamed bread should be set" (quoted from "All Jin Wen"). It is a natural choice for people to entertain guests at banquets in early spring with this kind of thin skin and many fillings, and it is crisp and soft.

Tangtangde steamed bun famous products

In the Tang Dynasty, the production technology of steamed stuffed bun was quite mature. Wei Juyuan, a Tang Dynasty man, listed a set of pastry named "Plain Steamed Sound Department" in the "Food List for Roasted Tail Banquet", and noted: "Steamed noodles are like Penglai immortals, where there are seventy things." Mr. Wang Zihui in "

A study of China's food culture holds that this group of food is steamed with flour wrapped in stuffing, which is similar to today's steamed buns: "The strangeness of stuffing materials, the fineness of flour and the beauty of taste requirements are amazing only in terms of shape. It requires a dance scene composed of 70 people, including musicians who play the pipa, drums, harps and flutes, and singers who dance in Luo Qi, each with his own costumes, gestures, movements and expressions. In the data, it is specifically mentioned that 70 people should be as beautiful as Penglai fairies. Imagine this group of pastry food, who can say that it is not a high-level art work! "

Steamed buns are naturally more popular with people because of their meat stuffing, and even the emperors who are rich in clothes and jade have a special liking for them. The article "Jade Pointed Noodles" in Tao Gu's Qing Yi Lu once described Tang Dezong's anecdote in that year with such a passage: "When Zhao Zongru was in the Hanlin, he heard that he said,' Today, the jade pointed noodles were cooked early, and the bears were stuffed with deer, which made him very fond of it.' Asked about its shape, there are pointed steamed buns in the world. "The so-called pointed steamed bread, that is, the steamed stuffed bun with slightly exposed fillings at the fingertips. As for the saying of eliminating bears and stacking deer, people sometimes interpret it as: "Those who are extremely fat in bears say' eliminating', and those who raise deer with twice as much material say' stacking'." It can be seen that this is a kind of steamed stuffed bun made of bear and venison, and its preciousness can be imagined.

Steamed buns were also known as "cage cakes" in the Tang Dynasty. "Tai Ping Guang Ji" quoted Tang Hanwan's "Yu Shi Tai Ji" as saying that Tang Wuze was a servant of Hou Sizhi, "When I tasted my life, I said,' Make a cage cake with me, but I can shrink my onions." More onions and less meat than market-cage cakes. Therefore, it is also necessary to shrink onions and add meat. The time number is the suggestion history of shrinking onions. "The meat-loving suggestion and adult, in order to make the chef add more meat when making steamed stuffed buns, did not hesitate to condescend.

The poem "Nest" written by Lu You, a poet in the Song Dynasty, says: "The fog and rain are dark, and the children should treat wine and food as appropriate. I feel like I'm in Shu, and a plate of cage cakes is a pea nest, "he said in his note." The steamed bread with mixed meat as a nest in Shu is even better, and the Tang people only call it a cage cake. " Nest is stuffing. Thus, Sichuan steamed bread stuffed with pork at that time was already very famous.

In the Tang Dynasty, people also called steamed buns "cocoons". Wang Renyu's "The Legacy of Kaiyuan Tianbao" in the late Five Dynasties states: "Every 15th day of the first month in the city, we make cocoons, compete with each other in official posts, or gamble on banquets, thinking it's a joke." It is probably because there is stuffing in the steamed stuffed bun dough, so the cocoon with pupa in it is taken as a metaphor. Qing Liquan's Dietary Steamed Bread quoted from Song Luyuan's Miscellaneous Notes of the Year: "Cocoons are made of meat or vegetarian stuffing, but thick-skinned steamed bread is also."

Calling steamed buns "steamed buns" was first seen in Jiang Yigong's poem "Ode to Anren Slaughtering Garlic" when he entered Shu in the late Tang Dynasty: "Anren County ordered good punishment, and the people were full of grease. Half-broken magnetic cylinder becomes vinegar wine, and dead cow intestines are used as steamed bread. " The "steamed bread" filled with dead tripe in the poem is obviously steamed stuffed bun.

Song people's admiration for steamed buns

People began to pay more attention to steamed stuffed bun, which was related to Song Shenzong's admiration. In Song Dynasty, Hu Zai's "Tiaoxi Fishing Hidden Conghua" quoted Lu Rongyi's "Shang Yao Lu" as saying: "Two scholars learn from the public kitchen, for example, they set up a farewell dinner on the trial day of Class 38, cooking cakes in the spring and autumn, and cooking steamed bread in summer and winter, and steamed bread is especially famous. Scholars often give it to their relatives." It is said that at the beginning of Yuan Fengchu, Shenzong paid special attention to schools, and was often worried that "the diet was too thin to support scholars". One day, Shenzong ordered Taixue to take what students eat in order to make progress. It happened that students ate steamed bread this day. After Shenzong tasted it, he felt it was delicious and said happily, "I have no shame in raising a scholar with this!" So "naturally, the diet is a little rich and clean, and steamed bread is famous." Obviously, the "steamed bread" here still refers to steamed buns.

Later, Yue Ke, the grandson of Yue Fei, once described this kind of Taixue steamed bread in the poem "Steamed Bread": "After several years of Taixue, I was full of Confucianism, and Yu Ji still passed on bamboo shoots and ferns. The son Peng Sheng has red wisps of meat, and the general has a white lotus skin with an iron staff. Fangxin can be used as a source of pepper, but it is better to be rough than a pot. When you are old, you are lucky to chew your teeth and drool. " It can be seen that this kind of steamed bread is made by mixing the cut shredded pork with pepper noodles, salt and other ingredients to make stuffing, and then using the dough as the skin. The finished product is white, bright and smooth, soft, tender and delicious, and the poet has a sigh of "drooling and comforting the greedy slave".

In Kyoto in the Northern Song Dynasty, steamed stuffed bun was a common snack on the street. Song Mengyuan's "Dream of Tokyo" said that the capital of song dynasty was on the market: "There are even steamed buns hotels, which specialize in grouting steamed buns, thin-skinned spring cocoons steamed buns, meat steamed buns, fish bag mixed powder, and big bones." Among them, "Plum Blossom Steamed Bun in Wanglou Mountain Cave" is particularly famous.

In the Southern Song Dynasty, the steamed buns in Lin 'an, Kyoto were all kinds of colors, but in people's habits, they were called "steamed buns" and "steamed buns". For example, under the article "Vegetarian food from restaurants" in Dream Liang Lu, there are small stuffed buns, crystal buns, bamboo shoots, shrimp and fish buns, crab buns, goose and duck buns, turtle buns, Qibao buns and so on. There are four-color steamed buns, raw stuffed steamed buns, mixed-color fried flower steamed bread steamed buns, sugar steamed buns, mutton steamed buns, Taixue steamed buns, bamboo shoots steamed buns, fish steamed buns, crab steamed buns, fake meat steamed buns, shredded bamboo shoots steamed buns, steamed steamed steamed buns, spinach fruit steamed buns and sugar rice steamed buns. According to this account, it seems that "steamed buns" and "steamed buns" are not the same. Otherwise, since the stuffing is the same, why should we call them "bamboo shoots with meat" and "bamboo shoots with meat"? In my humble opinion, it may be different in shape. Steamed buns may be thick and round, and there is no trace of stuffing, which is similar to baggage, so they are commensurate with "steamed buns" and "buns". Steamed bread, on the other hand, has a thin dough, and its shape is eclectic, round, long or square, and it is pinched into a flower shape at the mouth of the paper, which remains the legacy of "taking the elephant as the head" in ancient times, because it has the name of "steamed bread" Judging from its name, most pigs, sheep, beef, chickens, ducks, fish, geese and all kinds of vegetables can be used as stuffed buns.

However, there are exceptions. For example, Song Zhenzong once used jewelry as stuffing. According to the Records of the Swallow's Wing, written by Wang Ya, a poet of the Song Dynasty, Emperor Zhenzong was very happy when Song Renzong was born. "There are steamed buns in the palace to give to the liegeman, and all of them are golden beads". Of course, this kind of "steamed stuffed bun" is not edible, but can only be used as an anecdote in the history of steamed stuffed bun.

In order to eat steamed stuffed buns frequently, Cai Jing, a powerful minister in the Northern Song Dynasty, even had a steamed stuffed bun kitchen in his home. In the Song Dynasty's Luo Dajing's "He Lin Yu Lu", such an anecdote was recorded: "A gentleman bought a concubine in the capital, claiming to be a person in the steamed stuffed bun kitchen of Cai Taishifu. One day, make it a steamed stuffed bun and say no. You said,' If you are a person in the steamed stuffed bun kitchen, why can't you make steamed stuffed buns?' Yes:' I'm a wisp of onion in the steamed stuffed bun kitchen.' "

According to Song Zengminxing's "Awakening Alone Magazine", it was the same Cai Jing who spent more than a thousand dollars entertaining the courtiers who were deliberating with crab-yellow steamed buns: "Cai Yuanchang is the prime minister, set up a discussion department, and there are hundreds of officials, and the salary is excellent, and the cost is not insignificant. One day, I gathered for a family meeting. Because I stayed for a drink, I ordered crab yellow steamed bread. After drinking, the official calculated the cost slightly, and the steamed bread was blindly for more than 1,300 yuan. " In order to eat a crab-yellow steamed stuffed bun, it actually costs more than 300 pieces of copper coins/kloc-0 (generally 1000 pieces per piece).

Yuan people's steamed stuffed bun complex

In the Yuan Dynasty, steamed buns were still often called "steamed buns". For example, several kinds of steamed buns with pure meat or vegetarian dishes as stuffing introduced in "Eating and Eating" are a mixture of "steamed buns" and "steamed buns". Such as "warehouse steamed bread" with mutton and sheep fat as stuffing, "deer milk fat steamed bread" with deer milk fat and sheep tail as stuffing, etc., are purely filled with meat. The "Smallpox Steamed Bun" matched with mutton, sheep fat and sheep tail boiled in boiling water (people generally call the male flower of maize "smallpox", but it is doubtful that corn had not been introduced into China at that time) and the "Rattan Steamed Bun" matched with mutton, sheep fat and sheep tail boiled in boiling water are made with meat stuffing. The stuffing is generally mixed with salt and sauce. In order to increase the flavor, ginger, onion and dried tangerine peel are often added to the stuffing. Here, let's take a look at the production of "flower-cut steamed bread" to see it:

Ingredients: mutton, sheep fat, sheep tail, onion and dried tangerine peel.

Method: After cutting the above materials, mix them with salt and sauce to make stuffing, wrap them in "steamed bread", then cut out various patterns on the "steamed bread" with scissors, steam them in a cage, and dye the flowers with rouge.

This kind of "steamed bread" making skill with good color, fragrance and taste is not inferior to the steamed buns made by the best cooking masters today.

The stuffing for steamed buns described in the Complete Works of Household Necessities in Yuan Dynasty can also be roughly divided into two categories: meat and vegetables. Vegetarian stuffing includes sour stuffing and vegetable stuffing, among which there are two kinds of bean paste stuffing: one is "bean spicy stuffing" with mung bean paste and ginger juice, and the other is "Chengsha sugar stuffing" made by grinding cooked red beans. There is also a kind of "seven treasures stuffing" made of chestnut yellow, pine nuts, walnut kernel, gluten, ginger rice, cooked spinach and apricot paste. Meat stuffing is "mixed stuffing" made of mutton; "Pork stuffing" made with pork and sheep fat; "Lamb belly stuffing" made of lamb belly, sheep tongue and mutton; "cooked fine stuffing" made of peeled cooked pork and cooked bamboo shoots; Among them, the production of "fish steamed stuffed bun" is particularly distinctive: the main ingredient of the stuffing is carp or mandarin fish. The ingredients are sheep fat and pork fat. Besides salt, sauce and vinegar, there are orange peel, cooked shredded ginger, minced Sichuan pepper, pepper, almond and shredded onion fried with sesame oil.

In the book, the fermentation and production method of "sitting flat on a big steamed bun" (that is, today's steamed buns, the same below) are described in detail: "For every ten minutes, use two and a half kilograms of white flour. First, make a cup of yeast, run a small nest in the flour, pour in the yeast juice, cover it with a piece of soft flour and dry flour, and put it in a warm place. Wait until it rises, heat the four sides of dry noodles to make soup, and then cover it. Serve it again, add dry noodles and warm water. Mix it with hot soup in winter, no need to rub it more. When the tablet is put back, the kneading agent is wrapped. If rubbed, it is not fat. Its agent is softened, rolled into skin and stuffed. Row in a windless place and cover it with fu. Wait for the noodles to come, then enter the cage bed and steam it. " This method of making dough is quite close to the operation of modern people.

At that time, when people ate "steamed bread", they also paid great attention to the relationship between its materials and seasonality, and paid more attention to its symbolic color. The Complete Works of Household Necessities reveals that people eat more "lotus steamed bread" and "sunflower steamed bread" in summer when describing a variety of "steamed bread" and their uses. In wedding banquets, "sunflower steamed bread" is often used as the staple food, which means that it is rich in children. In the birthday party, you eat more "Shoudai turtle" and "Guilian steamed bread", which is undoubtedly an image of longevity.

The method of making "bad steamed bread" described in Yunlintang Dietary System Collection of Ni Zan in Yuan Dynasty is also very distinctive: "Use steamed bread with fine stuffing, wrap it with yellow grass cloth one by one, or use whole cloth. Spread it on the big plate first and spread it on the cloth. Spread the steamed bread thinly, then cover it with cloth, and cover it with thick cloth. Take it out overnight and fry it. You can stay for half a month in winter. If it is cold, it will spin on the fire. " This kind of steamed stuffed bun, which has been used badly and fried with fragrant oil, has a delicious taste.

Steamed buns became a common food in Ming and Qing Dynasties.

Until the Ming Dynasty, "steamed bread" was still used as a proper name for steamed buns, and Wang Sanpin's Textual Research on Ancient and Modern Things quoted Miscellaneous Notes in the Ming Dynasty had such an interpretation: "Anyone who takes noodles as utensils is called a cake. Therefore, those who eat by fire are called sesame cakes; Those who eat in water call for soup cakes; Those who eat in a cage are called steamed cakes; And steamed bread is called a cage cake, yes. " It serves to show that the steamed stuffed bun at that time was still called "steamed bread" or "cage cake".

According to Li Xu's "Random Essays on the Elderly in Jiean", in the early Ming Dynasty, the people in the capital also used "steamed bread" as a sacrifice to the heroes: "To worship the temple of the heroes, use steamed bread to hide [548 pieces]. Jiangning and Shangyuan counties offered 20 loads of flour, and after the sacrifice, they sent them to the craftsmen of the Ministry of Industry for cooking. "

"Steamed bread" also occupies an important position in the emperor's diet. Ming Huang Yizheng's "Things" and "A Brief Introduction to Rice Noodles in Imperial Diet in China" recorded that there are three kinds of rice noodles in imperial diet, such as twisted steamed bread, eight-treasure steamed bread and stuffed steamed bread.

Because "steamed bread" has become people's daily food, the description of "steamed bread" often appears in novels of Ming and Qing Dynasties. Shi Naian's "Water Margin" wrote in the 27th time: Wu Song saw a cage of steamed bread she had taken from the stove in a black shop in Sun Erniang, and once took a look at it and cried, "Restaurant, this steamed bread is human flesh? Is it dog meat? " Aunt Sun said that she was making fun of her, saying that her steamed bread had been made of beef since her ancestors. As a result, Wu Song still dodged a bullet by his own cleverness, and finally didn't make himself the stuffing for making "human-flesh steamed bread".

It was not until the Qing Dynasty that the steamed stuffed bun obtained its own exclusive "name right". When talking about a kind of "soup-filled meat bag", the "Three Hundred Songs of the Hanjiang River" written by Sumen in Qing Dynasty left such a note: "In spring, autumn and winter, broth is easy to coagulate. Pour it into the ground noodles and think it's steamed stuffed bun. When steamed, the soup will melt but not drain. Yangzhou tea houses are good at this. "

The eighth time in A Dream of Red Mansions, when describing Baoyu's conversation with Qingwen, he also mentioned a kind of "steamed stuffed bun with bean curd skin": "I had breakfast in that mansion today, and I thought you liked it. I told Grandma Zhen that I would keep it for the evening and have it delivered. Can you eat it?" This kind of steamed stuffed bun may refer to the steamed stuffed bun wrapped in tofu, which is found in the archives of Qing imperial cuisine.

However, its appellation is often completely opposite because of the differences between the north and the south: generally speaking, in the north, those without stuffing are called steamed buns, while those with stuffing are called steamed buns; In the south, however, those with stuffing are called steamed buns, while those without stuffing are also called "big steamed buns". There is such an analysis in "Clear Barnyard Notes": "The so-called steamed buns in the south are also fermented and steamed with crumbs, which swell into a circle, but they are actually steamed buns."

However, with the development of society, "steamed stuffed bun" and "steamed bread" finally have their own different names, and the difference is that there is stuffing and there is no stuffing. Nowadays, there are many kinds of steamed buns: according to the different fillings, steamed buns include pork buns, mutton buns, beef buns, mashed buns, bean paste buns, jujube paste buns, crab roe buns and so on; According to the different production methods, there are sauce meat buns, crystal buns, fried buns and steamed buns. According to the shape, there are monk's head bag, peach bag, lotus bag, duck egg bag, pomegranate bag, plum blossom bag, lantern bag, apple bag, pine cone bag and other varieties. As for famous products, there are Tianjin Goubuli Bao, Jingjiang Soup Bao and Yangzhou Steamed Soup Bao, among which Goubuli Bao is famous for its popularity.

References (omitted)

Past lives with colorful meals (serial)

Copyright works: E Zuo Deng Zi-2017-A-00016841