How to make a Hanbok - transferred from HanWeb Forum 襦襦裙简易裁法 (Disclaimer: You can indeed make a set of 襦襦skirts with this method, and I've always done it this way, but ...... may not be the right answer. So, I also hope that experienced seniors can correct any mistakes in it.) What is posted here is the basic type of cut for a 襦襦, in which the 襦 is a short, fitted, cross-necked jacket, the width of which is based on the size of a person's bust, and the length of which is just past the waist and not reaching the hips. (In the case of lengths up to the hips or over the hips, the hemline would need to be widened and made into a rounded shape, and it would not be the square hemline of the one in picture (1). Of course, it is possible to continue this cutting method, but the width must be based on the size of the hips, so that when the 襦 is bundled up in the skirt, there will be too much excess amount of cloth on the upper body), and the skirt is a wrap-around half-length skirt. I. Cutting of the jacket There are two common ways of cutting a cross-necked jacket. Because of the interlocking neckline, the front closure overlaps a part of the cloth, and it is difficult to meet the amount of cloth required for the front closure with one piece of cloth, therefore, both common ways of cutting are to make up a ?? from two pieces of cloth. One is the method of breaking open the middle of the back (as shown in Fig. (1)), where the seam line of the two pieces of cloth is in the middle of the back. In ancient paintings, there is a distinct line in the middle of the back of a person's jacket, when this cutting method is used; the other is the front placket complementary measurement method, i.e., the sewing line of the two pieces of cloth is in the right front placket, the advantage of this cutting method is that the sewing part is covered by the left placket, so that it is not visible on the surface of the clothes. In addition to these two methods, there is also a way to adjust the slope of the shoulder sleeve to meet the amount of cloth required for the overlap of the front part of the cutting method, only one piece of cloth is enough, do not need to cut another, but because I do not understand this method, I will not go into detail. [img] /bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/20058180501889.jpg[/img] The following is to introduce the back of the center to make up the amount of the method (this is the method I often use, because I think that this method to be more traditional). Step 1: Before cutting, you should first master the following data: chest circumference, shoulder and sleeve length, back length, garment length, sleeve edge width, collar edge width, cuff stops, clothing hem stops, and so on. Chest circumference: refers to the chest circumference of the clothes rather than the body's chest circumference. It is equal to the body's net bust circumference + the garment's looseness. Put the soft ruler horizontal shape through the peak of the breast point of the position of the human body measured net bust (pay attention to the soft ruler to be loose and tight), the amount of clothing loose by their own preferences, in general, the amount of loose 4CM ~ 6CM for the tight-fitting type (suitable for the requirements of the more tightly fitted clothing or a single 襦), 8-10CM for the fitted (can be worn alone or inside and then add another one or two pieces of clothing), 14CM or more is considered to be loose, but this is for the general thickness of the But this is for the general thickness of the fabric, if it is a thicker winter fabric or the inside is ready to do the sandwich cotton, but also in the basis of each type depending on the thickness of the fabric and increase the amount of loose. If you don't feel comfortable measuring, you can refer to the net bust size of a modern adult woman: S-type 76cm, M-type 82cm, L-type 88cm, XL-type 96cm. Shoulder and sleeve length: from the cervical vertebrae at the back of the neck (also known as the nape of the neck) to the position of the sleeve on the arm that you want to achieve. The width of the sleeve edge is also included in the sleeve length. Long sleeves can be measured to the tips of your fingers (or longer if you take into account the Hanbok saying that the sleeve length goes back to the elbow), and short sleeves, unless you want to make a half-arm, are recommended to be as short as the middle of the lower arm, because Han women's dresses are about not revealing the hand, and while modern standards can be relaxed a bit, it is not elegant to be too short. Modern reference size (only to the junction of the small arm and palm): S-type 59CM, M-type 61.5~63.5CM, L-type 63~64CM, XL-type 64.5CM. Back length: measured from the back of the neck to the thinnest part of the waist. Modern reference size: S type 36.5~37.5CM, M type 38~39.5CM, L type 38~40CM, XL type 39CM. Clothes length: you can measure it directly, from the point of the back neck to the place below the waist where you want to be, but not to the widest part of the hips (because it's short jacket). If you don't want to measure it, you can also add it with the back length, usually the back length plus 5~14CM is fine. Sleeve edge width: customize it to your personal preference. As for whether to have sleeve edge, generally speaking, narrow sleeves can be without edge, large sleeves must have edge, and medium sleeves are with or without edge. The width of the collar edge: it is up to your personal preference. But pay attention to the proportion of its width should be with the person's face and body with, not too exaggerated. If you are thin, you should not do too wide a collar. Sleeve Stop: The stop (also known as the seam allowance) is the amount of fabric used to join the fabric. If there is a sleeve edge, 1CM is enough, if there is no sleeve edge, then leave 2~3CM. Hem Stop: 2~3CM. Step 2: Open the grid and cut out a square piece of fabric or paper pattern (Picture (2)). If it is less easy to deform the fabric such as cotton, tweed, etc., you can operate directly on the fabric, if it is easy to deform the fabric such as chiffon silk and so on, it is best to make a paper pattern first. The size of the open frame is as follows: length = 1/4 bust + shoulder sleeve length - sleeve rim width + cuff stop; width = (length of the garment + hem stop) x 2 After opening the frame, the following auxiliary lines are drawn on the fabric (paper pattern), which are positioned as shown in Fig. (2) and described as follows: 襦Shoulder Sleeve Line: It is the line that divides the center of the front and back part of the jacket (or the line of the folds) 1/4 Bust Line: This line determines the position of the center of the back 1/2 Bust Line: This line determines the width of the garment Back length line: determines the position of the waist Bust line: this line passes through the chest but not through the point of the peak of the breasts, and can indicate the position of the depth of the sleeve hole (the line where the sleeve meets the body of the jacket), and the perpendicular distance from the shoulder-sleeve line is: net chest circumference/6+7CM The relevant pictures of this topic are as follows: [img] /bbs/UPLOADFILE/2005-8/ 20058180538607.jpg[/img]