Pingjiang specialty Pingjiang grilled fish as the saying goes, the fish jumped. Now nutrition experts add: "Fish eat small." Small fish are more nutritious than big fish. No wonder Pingjiang grilled fish produced in my hometown has always been so popular. As the name implies, grilled fish with fire is fish roasted and processed with fine fire. Different from stiff dried fish and salted fish, it is semi-dry and semi-wet, yellow outside and fresh inside, which combines the freshness of live fish, the freshness of dried fish and the taste of salted fish. Although the grilled fish in Pingjiang is only the length and thickness of the little finger. It is quite difficult to get it up. Let's talk about grilled fish first, which is very particular. It must be a small fleshy young fish that is wild in rivers and ponds. There is no artificial way to breed and feed this kind of fish at present. My hometown, Pingjiang County, has high mountains, long rivers and dense ponds. Whether it is a big river, a small pond or a deep pool, there are always endless succulent fish, roaming freely in the clear and empty shallow water. Just as one side of the landscape raises one side, so does the fish. There are four townships and eight ridges in the southeast and northwest, and the tender roe has different surfaces, scales and shapes. Naturally, the names vary from place to place. Some of them are called "sand-touching machines", some are called "sluggish brains", some are called "hemp tender" and some are called "red beards". But they all have the same characteristics as tender fish: long handle, thick fingertips, less prickly meat, no bitter intestines, never big, never caught. People fish in the same mountain pond and the same section of running water every day, but they have never heard of anyone who catches dozens or hundreds of pounds of tender meat at a time, and they have never seen anyone turn around when they catch it all. Visiting the vegetable market in the whole town, you can always see someone carrying a rectangular bamboo basket to sell grilled fish. The grilled fish must be spread in a thin layer to be fresh. When I was a child, farmers mentioned that the grilled fish sold in the county were all spread together with a lotus leaf, a melon leaf or a piece of paper. Diaries are as big as paper, and each one costs ten cents. It costs three to five dollars to buy one or two now. This kind of tender fish is actually easy to catch. You can cast a net, fish, drill and scrape. In my opinion, the most interesting of the eighteen fishing methods is "array fish". I went to my grandmother's house in the countryside when I was a child. "Pai Fish" once brought me endless happiness and joy. Find a mosquito net cloth the size of a square table, bend two bamboo sticks into a cross and tie them at the four corners of the cloth, and put on long rope slings to make a square fish. Sprinkle some white rice and bran cakes in the fish pot as bait, then put a pebble as a sinkhole, pick it with a bamboo pole and sink into the pond trembling. Before long, the tender fish in the pond will rush in to eat when they see the shiny delicious bait. I don't know. I fell into the fishing line we set up. Every once in a while, we use bamboo poles to catch fish. Once out of the water, there will always be a few tender fish jumping around in the fish. If you are lucky, you can sometimes "arrange" crucian carp and fish several inches long! Now, there are always people who like to make fish with poison or electric current. This desperate fishing makes the tender fish that can be seen everywhere less and less. When roasting fish with fire, you don't have to gut the tender roe and squeeze out the internal organs. Although this fish has a little gallbladder in its stomach, it is absolutely not bitter to eat because of the good water quality and no pollution in the mountains. Grilling fish with fire is a delicate job. Wash the beef pot, heat it with wood fire, carefully coat it with tea oil, then pour the fresh and tender fish into the pot, spread it evenly, heat the oil in the pot, and the fish will roll, naturally covered with clear oil, so as not to knot the pot. The dark fire in the kitchen is red, the fish pot is steaming, and the water vapor gradually dissipates, only the fishy smell comes to the nose. Every once in a while, they knock on the dark fire in the red furnace room and gently flip the fish stall. Like a kiln master. The grilled fish is only intact, non-sticky, non-sticky, delicious and golden, which makes people salivate at first sight. The practice of roasting fish by fire is also varied. Whether it is fried or steamed, it is a good dish to taste. The famous grilled fish in Pingjiang is naturally unique. The most famous ones should be hot and sour grilled fish and tofu. Cool the oil in a red pot, grab a pinch of grilled fish and throw it in, stir fry a little, open half a pot of soup, add salt, ginger, sauce, vinegar, garlic, perilla leaves, green peppers or dried peppers, and then choose half a catty of oily tofu from the countryside and oily tofu with thin skin, empty heart and yellow oil ground by a millstone. Cover it with slow fire after boiling. By the way, the hot and sour grilled fish and tofu are not mentioned. This kind of sour material can't be replaced by ordinary sour vinegar. It must choose the sour bean and sour radish in the sour jar raised by Pingjiang people, cut them into thin strips and add them. This is authentic Pingjiang hot and sour grilled fish and boiled tofu. Just a few dishes in an acid jar can make your mouth water, not to mention fried fish with tofu. Atractylodes macrocephala in Pingjiang, also known as "Winter Art" and "Jade Art", is rich in Sanyang, Anding, Chiayi, Changshou, Jinlong, Middle East and other areas in Pingjiang County, so it is called Pingshu. Atractylodes macrocephala is an important Chinese herbal medicine. "It has been cultivated artificially in Pingjiang County for more than 400 years and enjoys a long reputation". Jiajing's Yue Zhou Zhi in the Ming Dynasty recorded: "Atractylodes macrocephala is produced in Pingjiang (with purple flowers as the top)". In the Compendium of Materia Medica written by Li Shizhen, an outstanding pharmacologist in the Ming Dynasty, in 1578 (the sixth year of Wanli), it was also recorded that Atractylodes macrocephala was "thin and yellow, produced by Mufu Mountain". The article "Pingjiang County Records and Products" praised "Pingshu is the most famous, and it is not easy to get a natural description after the natural mountain is reclaimed." It can be seen that "Pingshu has long been a precious Chinese herbal medicine unique to Pingjiang". "In addition to selling well in the domestic market, it is also exported to Southeast Asian countries, the United States, Japan and other countries, and enjoys a high reputation in the domestic and international medicinal materials market." Atractylodes macrocephala in Yinpingjiang is a perennial herb belonging to Atractylodes in Compositae. "The plant height is 30 to 60 cm, the stem is upright, the upper part is branched, the leaves are not divided, and the leaves under the stem are deeply split", "The stem is lignified and slightly grooved; Simple leaves alternate herbaceous, elliptic or ovate-lanceolate; Flowers are small, mostly purple, and the head is terminal; Fruit achene, rectangular, covered with yellow fluff. Pingshu "blooms in September 9- 10/0, and bears fruit in10/0/month; "The rhizome is thick, slightly fist-shaped, and a few have irregular branches. Underground stem blocks are medicinal parts. " "The flattening technology sold in the market is a dry rhizome, which is divided into baking flattening technology and natural flattening technology. As far as quality is concerned. The baking operation is dry, thick and solid, without holes, with yellow-white cross section, vermilion spots and no brown. Natural flattening is better with large body, beautiful appearance, fist-shaped, soft, yellow-white cross section and oily and sweet taste. " The main medicinal chemical component of Atractylodes macrocephala in Pingjiang is volatile oil, the content of which is 65438 0.32%, ranking second to none among Atractylodes macrocephala in China. Known as' Southern Ginseng', it has mild medicinal properties, sweet and bitter taste and fragrant breath, and has the functions of strengthening the spleen and stomach, helping digestion, lowering blood sugar, anticoagulating blood, removing dampness, resisting bacteria, promoting circulation of qi, stopping diarrhea, inducing diuresis, preventing miscarriage and neutralizing middle energizer. Atractylodes macrocephala in Pingjiang "likes cool and dry climate, and is afraid of high temperature and high humidity." Avoid continuous cropping. According to the field experiment, when the temperature is lower than 30℃, the growth rate of plants increases with the increase of temperature; When the temperature exceeds 30℃, the growth is inhibited. The underground part of flat operation grows fastest at 26℃ to 28℃. Therefore, leveling is highly selective to the environment, and it is suitable for growth and development in neutral acidic soil formed by weathered slate shale with good natural vegetation, abundant rainfall, short sunshine time, less direct light, strong water and fertilizer conservation ability and good drainage performance, and suitable for growth and development in middle and low mountains and slopes about 500 meters above sea level. " "There is Li Anyun in the southeast of Pingjiang County and Shogun Mountain in the north, which not only blocks the warm current from the south, but also resists the invasion of cold air from the north, forming a special mountain microclimate that is not hot in summer and not cold in winter. The soil-forming area of slate shale in the county accounts for 55.6%, the soil with thickness greater than 40 cm accounts for 80%, and the soil with PH value between 5.5 and 7 accounts for 67%, among which there are many trace elements. There are many deep mountains and canyons in most areas of the county, with short sunshine time, mild climate, abundant rainfall and fertile soil, which is most suitable for the growth and development of Pinghua. In addition, the county has accumulated rich experience in long-term leveling production practice, and has a set of high-yield cultivation techniques and advanced processing technologies. Therefore, developing flat production is an effective way to revitalize the mountain economy and increase farmers' income. "Pingjiang osmanthus honey Pingjiang County has undulating mountains and mild temperatures, which is very suitable for the growth of osmanthus. The honey source of Pingjiang honey is Osmanthus fragrans, which is all over the mountain, so Pingjiang honey is also called Osmanthus fragrans honey, which is a famous specialty in Hunan. Pingjiang honey is milky white in appearance and fragrant in smell, and its concentration is higher than other honey, generally above 42 degrees, up to 46 degrees. The sweetness is also very high, containing 70 ~ 80% glucose or fructose, and it has always been called the king of honey. Pingjiang honey is famous at home and abroad, and its quality is excellent, which is closely related to the local specialty osmanthus fragrans. In winter, flowers wither, but osmanthus is proudly in full bloom, and the flowering period is very long. Among them, the variety of Donggui can last from 65438+1October 25th to 65438+late February. Osmanthus fragrans falls behind in winter, which is the flowering period of Osmanthus fragrans in spring, from February 4th to early March, lasting 1 month. Therefore, Pingjiang County has been a favorite place for beekeepers for many years. Pingjiang sauce originated from Longevity Street, an important town on the border of Hunan, Hubei and Jiangxi, so it is also called Changshou sauce. This Longevity Street is named after many long-lived old people. Legend has it that the oldest person is 180 years old. The origin of Longevity Street's name is a legend with magical color, but it is still an indisputable fact that there have been long-lived old people here. According to scientific research, loving tofu is extremely beneficial to people's health. An important reason for Longevity Street's longevity is that people here especially like tofu. Tofu in Longevity Street has been famous since ancient times, and it is especially tender. Longevity dry sauce is also a kind of tofu products, and its appearance is a modern thing. Someone joked that Longevity Street and Pingjiang were two great contributions of China in modern times. There are more than fifty generals in Pingjiang County, ten of whom are in Longevity Street. Zhang zhen, former vice chairman of the Central Military Commission, trained eight generals in Wuli, Fiona Fang, near his hometown. Zhang zhen, the vice chairman, is now over 80 years old. He is in good health and is a veritable "longevity general". Dry sauce was first created by He Weifeng (1847— 1947), a centenarian in Xianfeng period of Qing Dynasty. He owns a hotel in Longevity Street. The cold dishes served at that time were nothing more than peanuts and pig's head meat. He Weifeng thought, we Longevity Street people love tofu. If only tofu could be used as a cold dish. He is determined to make a breakthrough on his own. After many experiments, the old man adopted the traditional method of pickling and baking food in Longevity Street. The special dried bean curd is marinated with chicken soup, fennel and cinnamon. And then slowly bake it with charcoal fire to make it tasty. Finally, it is made into dried bean curd with square inch size, copper coin thickness, black and shiny, and fragrant smell, and named as "Duozhen Dried Sauce"; Every ten roots use a circle of cotton thread, which is called a tube. Because it tastes mellow, chewy and refreshing, drinkers always bring back several tubes of sauce after drinking in the store. In this way, the Maotai-flavor business is even better than the wine business. Old Mr. He Weifeng simply put up a signboard and opened a dry sauce workshop. By the time of the Republic of China, Changshou dry sauce had spread all over the border area of Hunan, Hubei and Jiangxi, and became a major specialty of Pingjiang. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, Changshou Supply and Marketing Cooperative hired the daughter-in-law of He Weifeng as a technician, and gradually expanded the production of dry sauce. Dry sauce is a tofu product, which is easy to go moldy and deteriorate. It can only be stored for three to five days in cold winter, which greatly limits its sales market and can only be kept in the boudoir. After the reform and opening-up, modern preservation technology was used to produce dried sauce and vacuum packaging was used. Since then, Pingjiang dry sauce has gone out of the mountain gate, selling well all over the country and enjoying a good reputation at home and abroad. Even the old generals in Beijing can taste this hometown all year round. No matter people from all over the world, anyone who has been to Pingjiang has never tasted Pingjiang sauce; People who have tasted Pingjiang sauce are full of praise. Of course, it's not just entertaining guests for drinks. On weekdays, when you are bored, you can chew a piece in your mouth, which tastes good. Pingjiang sauce is dry and chewy, which chews not only fresh, tender, salty, spicy and sweet, but also unique history and culture. Of course, for us Pingjiang people, it is a deep homesickness.
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