Question 2: How to Prune Grape Seedlings Video Tutorial Annual grapes, because there are not many growing branches, you can decide the length of the trunk and how many branches to leave according to whether you climb the elevated or low shelf. Don't let it climb to the high shelf at once, because the grape has stem borers, which can easily lead to the death of the whole grape. So leave 2-3 trunks to climb. One branch is dead, and there is still a guarantee. In addition, grapes are the most prone to "bleeding"-if lignified branches are pruned during the growing season, they will easily die. But we can pinch the bud head. If you think the height is enough, you will split! You can pinch off the tip of the terminal bud, so that you can achieve the purpose of pruning without bleeding. Therefore, it is necessary to control the branches at the bottom not to grow too long, and to leave two main branches to promote early climbing.
Question 3: It takes about three years to prune the vines. Pour more liquid medicine on the meat. If it doesn't blossom and bear fruit, you can use grafting.
Grape bud grafting interface in spring is easy to bleed and the survival rate is very low; Branches sprouted by bud grafting in summer are short and thin, and the degree of lignification is poor when frosted in autumn, so it is better to graft grapes with green branches.
The grafting time of green branches is in summer, and the interface is painless in summer, so the survival rate is high. Green branch grafting is the use of older branches. After grafting, the new shoots can be lignified in autumn and can naturally overwinter in the open field. Some varieties must be grafted, such as Ping-Pong Fujiminori grape, which has large grains and high yield, but the self-rooted seedlings propagated by cutting are weak, small grains and low yield, and must be grafted on the rootstocks of other well-rooted grapes (such as Heifeng and Kyoho). Green branch grafting is also beneficial to the replacement and renewal of inferior varieties, and is convenient for the reproduction and popularization of excellent varieties. A large number of seedlings can be grafted with a few branches.
Specific practices are as follows:
1, the rootstock must grow healthily and have complete leaves. After the grapes are harvested, the fertilizer and water management before grafting is carried out. In case of drought, water in advance.
2. The scion adopts the strong branches of the current year which are close to the base, with high lignification degree and full buds. You'd better pick the scion now. If it is a long-distance transportation, it must be moisturized and soaked in clear water for one day and one night.
3. The grafting position of hedgerow grape should be not less than 30cm and not more than 130cm, and each plant should be grafted with 10 ~ 15 buds. Select annual robust branches on the main vine every 20 ~ 30cm, and graft them at a distance of 5 ~ 10cm from the base.
4. When grafting, first cut the petiole on the scion from the base, and cut 1/2 from the back of the bud, and the section should be smooth. Then, take the bud as the center, cut 2cm on both sides, and put them on the rootstock in the same direction. Cut one at both ends of the bud branch with a sharp knife, reaching the pith, and then remove the bud branch to cut off the tissue between them, resulting in a cut with the same size as the bud branch.
5. 165438+ 10 After the leaves of the grapes fell in June, the grafting wound has completely healed, so it can be unbound, leaving a 2 cm incision at the grafting site and thinning the ungrafted rootstock branches.
6. In the spring of the next year, the sprouting strips on the rootstock should be erased in time to facilitate the sprouting of the grafted buds, and comprehensive management such as fertilization, watering, tying vines and coring should be carried out.
Question 4: I don't know about the small video of grape pruning and sharpening, but you only need to pinch your teeth when sharpening, and you can pinch the long one.
Question 5: How to prune Di Hong grapes in greenhouse in winter? Well, yes, the pruning of vines is to adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting, so as to make the tree shape complete, the branches evenly distributed, the affiliation clear, make full use of the shelf surface, facilitate the management of various operations, make young trees form quickly, bear fruit early, yield early, keep big branches in disorder, have good ventilation and light transmission, reduce pests and diseases, improve fruit quality and prolong the fruiting period.
According to different pruning time, it can be divided into winter pruning and summer pruning. In the second year, before the sap starts to flow 10 ~ 15 days, it is called winter pruning (winter pruning), and it is usually carried out in late June10 ~1early October 165438 before freezing. Pruning from germination to defoliation in spring is summer pruning (summer pruning).
First, winter pruning
When pruning in winter, the yield base should be determined according to tree shape, tree age, variety, tree potential, site conditions (climate, soil), framework and plant spacing. So as to select the length of the fruiting mother branch and the amount of remaining buds, and through pruning, cultivating the branch group, renewing the mother branch, cutting off the pests and diseases, etc.
1. Winter shearing period: after the grapes have fallen leaves and before the soil is frozen, bury the soil in the cold-proof area. Grapes should not be taken off the shelf in winter cold-proof areas, but should be taken before germination 1 month. Pruning after the root system starts to move in spring will cause bleeding, thus delaying the germination of bud eyes, so try to avoid pruning during the bleeding period. Pruning in winter during leafless dormancy has many advantages: at this time, branches and vines can be seen clearly, and how much to leave and where to cut them. After defoliation, most of the nutrients in the tree have been stored in the branches and roots, and the waste of nutrients by thinning branches is very small. In winter, the root system does not move, which increases the root canopy, promotes the concentration of nutrients in the reserved branches and buds, improves the quality of spring buds in the next year, and is conducive to germination and further differentiation of flower buds.
2. Pruning reaction: Whether the pruning technology is reasonable is the most objective criterion to test the pruning reaction over the years. Therefore, before pruning in winter every year, we should investigate the germination, tillering, length and thickness of new shoots, fruiting branch rate, plumpness of winter buds, fruit yield and quality of the year after pruning last year or the year before, and comprehensively analyze the local and overall responses of pruning techniques to the trees, so as to make this year's pruning targeted. In practice, every vine should be inspected from the base to the top before pruning, and the pruning method should be determined according to the pruning reaction of the tree in the previous year, so as to balance the tree potential, adjust the branch density, and gradually update all kinds of branches, so as to make the crown full, ventilated and transparent, and the branches young and strong, so as to achieve the purposes of high quality and high yield, strong trees and prolonged economic life.
3. Pruning procedures: First, plant trees in the same year, then plant trees in the first fruit period of two to three years, and then plant trees in the full fruit period; First, the main branches (main vines and branches), and then the fruiting branches; Thinning the branches first, then retracting and cutting them short.
4. Cutting requirements for annual branches: (1) According to the number of buds left, annual branches can be divided into four categories: ultra-short branches (1 bud or only basal buds left), short branches (2-4 buds), middle branches (5-7 buds) and long branches (more than 8 buds). Short-branch pruning is the most widely used in northern China. In southern China, because of the long growing period of grapes, short, middle and long branches are usually pruned to speed up the shaping and crown expansion and achieve high yield in the early stage. (2) One-year-old robust and mature fruiting mother branches should be selected, and those whose thickness is above 0.8cm and less than 0.8cm should be cut short, leaving only 1 bud to cultivate vegetative branches. (3) The incision should be 3~4cm above the bud eye, leaving an air-drying area to ensure that the bud eye under the incision is not air-dried to facilitate timely germination. In the dry and windy areas in spring, lead oil should be used to seal the incision to prevent the branches and buds from drying up.
5. Pruning requirements for perennial branches: (1) When pruning perennial branches, thick branches should be left under the cut to rejuvenate them. (2) When the perennial strong branches are retracted and pruned, moderate branches can be left after pruning, and the left strong branches and super-strong branches can be properly thinned out to weaken vegetative growth and promote flowering and fruiting.
6. Requirements for thinning branches: (1) When thinning branches, the cutting mouth should be flush with the mother branches, and should be flat, without stubble, skin lesions and short piles, so as to facilitate the rapid healing of wounds and minimize the impact on the growth of branches under the cutting mouth. (2) The thinning and cutting of branches in different years should be kept on the same side of the trunk or main vine as far as possible to avoid "collision" and affect the transportation of nutrients and water in the tree.
7. Renewal requirements: Renewal mainly refers to the renewal of fruiting mother branches and main lateral vines. (1) Regeneration of fruiting mother branch. Results The purpose of mother branch regeneration is to prevent the fruit part from rising and moving outward year by year, and single branch regeneration and double branch regeneration are mainly used. Single-branch regeneration means that only 1 bearing mother branches are left after pruning in winter, and new shoots at high positions bear fruit after short branches are pruned and germinated, and new shoots at the base are cultivated until the following year ... > >
Question 6: Kyoho Grape Seedlings Pruning Video in the Second Year. The newly planted Kyoho grape this year is a biennial seedling. How to manage?
Question 7: home vine pruning technology video grape planting technology: the advantages of garden grape planting, garden grape cutting and seedling raising, garden grape transplanting and daily management of garden grapes
Question 8: Grape summer pruning technology video? Annual grapes, because there are not many branches, can decide the length of the trunk and how many branches to leave according to whether to climb the elevated or low shelf. Don't let it climb to the high shelf at once, because the grape has stem borers, which can easily lead to the death of the whole grape. So leave 2-3 trunks to climb. One branch is dead, and there is still a guarantee. In addition, grapes are the most prone to "bleeding"-if lignified branches are pruned during the growing season, they will easily die. But we can pinch the bud head. If you think the height is enough, you will split! You can pinch off the tip of the terminal bud, so that you can achieve the purpose of pruning without bleeding. Therefore, it is necessary to control the branches at the bottom not to grow too long, and to leave two main branches to promote early climbing.
Question 9: How to draw video branches of grapes;
Grape is a perennial woody and vine fruit tree. There are old cadres and new branches. Because woody branches are perennial, the epidermis is thick and wrinkled, curved and less folded, so they can be expressed in ink or ochre ink. Ink color should be changed from shade to dryness, and special attention should be paid to painting with calligraphy. Draw a curve with a long pen center dipped in uneven ink and color.
Leaf painting:
Grape leaves are palm-shaped, with three to five leaves (palm leaves have three tips and five tips). The root of the leaf has a long concave petiole, and there is a main Ye Jin from the petiole to the tip of the leaf, and Ye Jin is attached to both sides of the main Ye Jin. Different varieties of grapes have slightly different leaf sizes and colors. Leaves have various postures, front, side, back, back. Because most of the time, you can't see all the five tips of the leaves, so when you show the leaves, you should show the posture of the front, side, back and back of the leaves, as well as the distance and reality of the leaves. Draw a leaf with a stroke, and draw the whole leaf from left to right with one stroke. The back leaf (reverse leaf) is light in color and the front leaf is heavy in color. For the side leaves that can be seen on both sides, draw a few folds of light ink first, and then draw a few heavy inks. Draw a petiole at the root of the leaf. When the leaves are 70% dry, write down the main and subsidiary Ye Jin from petiole to tip with wolfram pen. The main Ye Jin line is slightly thicker, and the attached Ye Jin is drawn alternately on both sides of the main Ye Jin. It should be noted that the attached Ye Jin is not relative.
In order to distinguish grapes from leaves, the ink color of leaves is lighter or heavier than grapes. The leaves of purple grapes and green grapes can be represented by ink or color. Commonly used colors are dark green, cyan, ochre, azurite with ink or azurite with ink. Draw leaves of various colors, and dip the pen tip with a little eosin to enrich the color change. Ye Jin is marked with the same strong color or ink. Blue, blue and green leaves with eosin hooks are also very chic. Small works strive for accuracy and Mo Miao, while big works should pay attention to the overall performance, and local changes should not be too big, otherwise there will be a sense of disorder.
Question 10: Wen Peng grape cultivation technology video greenhouse grape cultivation technology 1, planting and framing: (1) The planting period is from early April to early May. First, soak the grape seedlings in water for a day, and then cut off the moldy roots for planting. The planting distance depends on the frame. Generally, the row spacing (shelf spacing) of hedgerows is 1.5. Single-sided scaffolding row spacing of 3 meters, plant spacing of 0.8 ~ 1 m; The row spacing of double-sided scaffolding is 5m, and the plant spacing is 0.8 ~1m. When planting, the hole dug is 40-50 cm in diameter and 40-50 cm in depth. Generally, 50 ~ 60 kilograms of organic fertilizer is applied to each pit, and the seedling nodes are higher than the surface. The distance between the planting hole and the frame column is 0.5m.. After planting, water is poured quickly, and the soil is cultivated the next day, leaving a bud outside. When the rest are cultivated in the soil, spread the soil bags flat. When the connector is exposed, remove the binding tape. (2) Rack ① Hedgerow frame: north-south direction, with one column every 4-5m, column height1.5-1.8m, and frame spacing1.5-2m. (2) Single-sided inclined scaffold (small scaffold), 1 column, with two rows of columns every 3-4 meters, the front column height 1.8-2 meters, the rear column height1-/.5 meters, and the spacing between the two rows of columns is 2 meters, and then every 40-50 meters. (3) Single-sided horizontal scaffolding is also two rows of columns, but the difference is that the height of the two rows of columns is the same, which is about1.8m. (4) Three rows of columns are double-sided scaffolding, the middle column is 2 ~ 2.2m high, and the columns on both sides are1.5m high and 4m wide. Grapes are planted on both sides and grow in opposite directions. The hedge frame has the best light, but the double-sided shed frame has poor light reception. In our province, the north-south direction of the hedge frame is the best. 2. Grape shaping and pruning (1) shaping ① Multi-main vine sector: suitable for hedges. In the first year after planting, when the new shoots grow to about 10cm, they are picked and the lateral branch technique is popularized. When there are 3-4 branches, they can be used as main stems. After the new buds germinate, leave a leaf at the top L ~ 2 nodes to remove the core, and remove the rest. Pick the core of the main vines in August, and leave a few nodes for 3 ~ 4 main vines when they are mature in autumn for planting in the morning. In the second year, the winter buds on the main vine can be used as fruiting branches, and one leaf is left at the top L ~ 2 nodes of the summer buds, and the rest are removed. The main vine and fruiting branches are cored in mid-August, and then pruned in autumn, leaving a few nodes in the mature nodes of the long branches of the main vine, and the fruiting branches can be pruned with medium and short branches, so that the tree basically ends in two years. In the spring of the third year, after removing the cold-proof soil, it was put on the shelves in time and tied with wire. The work after germination is mainly to wipe the bud and treat the auxiliary tip. In summer, not only the secondary branches are treated, but also the tendrils are removed, and the fruiting branches are continuously picked, and 3 to 5 leaves above the top ear are left before removal. It can ensure the maturity and firmness of the ear and the quality of winter buds. The main branches can be picked in August. In autumn, the middle and short branches of fruiting branches should be trimmed, and the main vines should be trimmed or retracted, and 7 ~ 9 buds should be reserved. At the same time, pay attention to the regeneration of fruiting branches to prevent the fruiting parts from moving out, pruning the middle branches of vigorous fruiting branches and slightly pruning the weak ones. If there are too many bearing branches, short branches can be pruned to reduce the burden. (2) In the first year of planting, leave two main vines as main vines and one bud as auxiliary vines. In the second year, the winter buds on the main vine germinated and produced fruiting branches. Prune the fruiting branches with short scissors in autumn, leaving two buds. After a few years, they will be like dragonflies, and the management of other coring and auxiliary branches will be the same. It is characterized by being put on the shelves early, which is suitable for rootstocks with underdeveloped roots and also suitable for large scaffolding. (2) Pruning: ① Achievement technology update: single branch update: namely middle tip pruning; Regeneration of two branches: pruning short branches, pulling out two new branches in the second year of pruning, thinning out the external new branches in autumn after fruiting, and pruning two buds in the internal new branches. In this way, the two branches are regenerated. (2) The regeneration of main vine utilizes the new branches produced by the hidden buds at the lower part, and the branches produced by the prepared buds can be cultivated into fruiting branches to prevent the lower part from being empty; The roots and tillers of Vitis amurensis can be used for grafting. Local renewal of main vine: when the main vine is injured or has bald parts, it should be taken back and renewed. (3) Brushing buds, removing vines and thinning fruits: in the germination stage, when a bud eye grows several buds, one robust bud is left and the others are removed. When tendrils appear, they should be removed in time to reduce nutrient consumption. For varieties with large ears, leave one ear and fruit branches, otherwise leave two ears. (4) Picking main vines and fruiting branches. The main vine is picked in August, and 5-6 leaves are left on the fruit ear of the bearing branch. ⑤ For the treatment of secondary branches, the secondary needles at the lower part of the vegetative branches and the fruiting branches are all removed, and a leaf is left at the upper L ~ 2 secondary branches for coring. ⑥ If it is slightly new and slightly longer than 20crn, it should be slightly tied to prevent splitting. At the same time, ...