Hangzhou cuisine is very smart and knows how to make use of local resources. For example, it is the season when green tea is on the market, and Longjing shrimp and tea-flavored chicken are very popular. I also know how to use seasonal ingredients. The stone fish and the walking fish in the picture are typical representatives. Many people are not familiar with step fish. Yuan Mei said in "Suiyuan Food List": "Hangzhou takes step fish as the top grade ... The meat is the most tender, fried, boiled and steamed, and pickled shepherd's purse is added to make soup, which is especially fresh. "With bamboo shoots, it is a rare seasonal dish in early spring among traditional dishes in Hangzhou. (Continued from P17) Round 4 Bentangshen: There are two kinds of dishes in tourist cities, one is for tourists and the other is for locals. These are two worlds. Ye: Subang cuisine is different. We will have an intersection. For example, Su Bangcai's signature sauce meat is also eaten by locals. It's just that Suzhou people don't eat squirrel mandarin fish, which is for tourists. Shen: Squirrel mandarin fish in Suzhou is equivalent to vinegar fish in Hangzhou. Hangzhou people generally don't make Dongpo pork or West Lake vinegar fish at home. Chen: There's a restaurant that makes vinegar fish from the West Lake near Dongshanlong food market, and the environment is not very good. It is different from other restaurants. I found that only its chef speaks Hangzhou dialect, and the cooking pot is still a large iron pot, and the materials are authentic, which are local soy sauce and Zhejiang vinegar that can be found in nearby food markets. But now there are more people going, and it has regressed. Ye: I'm curious about what kind of fish do locals eat? Steamed with salted fish? Chen: For example, fried crucian carp with scallion is rare. Stir-fry the onion and stuff it into the fish. There are also fish-flavored steamed meat and roasted meat. For example, the spring bamboo shoots fish that can't be eaten in the store only eats two lumps of cherry meat on its cheeks. Ye: But many home-cooked dishes have appeared in hangzhou dishes in recent years. Now, if we do a survey, maybe there are only a few sightseeing dishes, but these home-cooked dishes must have appeared in hangzhou dishes restaurants in other places. Chen: Yes, but it's unusual. Because restaurants have requirements for preparing materials, the cost is low and it is not easy to deteriorate. Hangzhou cuisine is characterized by four distinct seasons. It takes about one and a half months for the step fish to be listed every year, so it is very troublesome to remove it from the menu; Some dishes need to meet the health and epidemic prevention inspection, and it is impossible to cook the meat now. So I think there are many restrictions that Hangzhou food can't make you enjoy yourself. Ye: Cuisine that knows how to use ingredients must have four distinct seasons, and Suzhou is the same. Cuisine is very attached to ingredients. So Suzhou food can't go out. Chen: Hangzhou cuisine is even more so. Far away, even with the best Longjing tea, you can't find good water to brew. Hangzhou people eat Manglietia tofu in summer, which is the ghost lotus growing on Parthenocissus tricuspidata, "Ficus pumila". It can make many dishes, and it is wonderful with the melons in Hangzhou in season! But only ordinary people in Hangzhou have food, and no shop has Manglietia tofu, which is out of touch. As a greedy guy, you will definitely choose the food that will give you a peak experience. But when tourists come to Hangzhou, they should not only have the impression of Hangzhou, but also have a sense of taste. So there is nothing wrong with just a few dishes coming and going. Ye: In Suzhou, people in Hangzhou have opened two or three local restaurants, which are very successful. They play the role of "kindness to go home" and sell Hangzhou Bentang cuisine and some local dishes. Hangzhou cuisine is very typical if it is regarded as an ordinary people's home cooking combined with Zhejiang regional farmhouse cuisine. It's based on Hangzhou-centered ingredients. This dish didn't belong to Hangzhou before. It doesn't matter. Now it has become a symbol of Hangzhou. Shen: Two years ago, Mr. Chen took me to a restaurant in Dongyang where there were sugarcane seedlings. In the past two years, the local dishes in this province have been highly recognized in Hangzhou. There is also a small chicken, which is also something that Hangzhou people spontaneously look for outside tourists. Ye: It has something to do with the city. Hangzhou was filled by foreigners, so they went to other places to find food, drink and be merry, forming the food in these villages. Chen: Like a man, he used to be very innocent. When he met a village girl, he was very moved. He was moved several times. What should he do? He had to wait at the door of the beauty salon. A new problem now is over-processing, which has lost the true colors of ingredients. Chen: Actually, the coordinate system can be removed now. In the past, various cuisines were formed. The key problem was the inconvenient transportation and the different ingredients, which led to the formation of local systems, such as Sichuan cuisine, Shandong cuisine, Guangdong cuisine, and even Ningbo cuisine and Hangzhou cuisine. But now facing an open society, there is almost no regional difference in ingredients. Of course, Hangzhou cuisine has also changed in recent years. Apart from the influx of information, various ingredients also give chefs the impulse to innovate. The Hangzhou food we are talking about now is the food cooked by Hangzhou people, but there is a problem with a little man. Cooking by young men is different from cooking by old men. Ye: put a lot of flat tips in the old duck pot, and Jinhua ham. It is quite clever, and when it is integrated to the extreme, it becomes a specimen. You can tell at a glance, oh, this is Hangzhou. Shen: The most successful integration is the Longjing shrimp, and the green tea is put into the shrimp. Ye: Restaurants in Hangzhou are also changing, and many restaurants have standard operations. This is the concept of American catering, which is streamlined and standardized. Shen: This is normal. This chain copy of the central kitchen is in line with the current market. At present, most nuclear families are three people, two people work and one child. This kind of family is not good at cooking, and a large number of restaurants similar to grandma's have replaced family restaurants, so the per capita consumption must be controlled at a certain level. At present, several markets are mixed together. High-end catering, high-end catering and catering that replaces family kitchens are in a scuffle, just like paper books and electronic publications. The latter market is still immature. When the fast food category is fully developed, it will distinguish other restaurants that focus on taste. Ye: This kind of standard restaurant will definitely not meet the requirements of gourmets. Delicious people pursue the ultimate and tailor-made food. Chen: Another important reason is the level of diners. Creating a catering atmosphere in Hangzhou should have a core. There are a group of connoisseurs around Hangzhou cuisine, with ordinary diners at the periphery and tourists at the outermost. Only in this way can the dining atmosphere be driven. Ye: But if a place takes tourists as its catering standard, its catering standard will not be brilliant, it will be impossible, and its own city is small. Chen: Hangzhou is not small! Round 5 breaks the answer card Shen: I prefer the building outside the building; The second is Feile and Tiantianwang, which are closer to Hangzhou natives; In addition, I will go to some noodle restaurants. Ye: My memory of Hangzhou is local food, such as flat tip, which is rich in spring resources. Although bamboo shoots belong to Anji, will you remember to go to Lin 'an to eat side bamboo shoots? It has been integrated into Hangzhou Wharf. There are also eels. Chen: I have four Hangzhou dishes in the four seasons, and I can feel the scenery of Hangzhou best, spring, bamboo shoots and fish; Summer, steamed meat with lotus leaf powder; Autumn, crab powder tofu; In winter, owl cooks meat. Steamed pork with lotus leaf powder is the same as Suzhou, but the seasoning is exquisite. With perilla, soy sauce and a little fennel powder, the meat is chosen accurately, and it must be three thin and two fat pork belly.