April 15th, 217?
No.24-1, Xiatang East Street, Nanxun Town, Huzhou City, Zhejiang Province
It's sunny and harmonious, and I'm visiting nanxun town with my friends.
the ancient town is divided into two scenic spots, north and south, which are distributed along the river. There are many shops in the south scenic spot, and the voices are noisy. Even the river is crowded with many awning boats. Going to the North Scenic Area, it is already sunset. Narrow and long lanes, paved with bluestone, one room connected to another, scattered shops, mostly local people living by themselves. Small shirts are hanging on bamboo poles, puppies are taking a nap on the roadside, and there are three or two tourists gathered in front of tricycles selling tofu pudding in the distance.
At this time, our feet are weak, our clothes are soaked with sweat, we are hungry, and our pace is getting slower and slower. Passing by, I glanced in and smiled at the uncle in the house. "Come in and have a bowl of tea." Grandpa laughed, and our mess has long been seen through.
as soon as I entered the room, I felt cool.
it's a teahouse, more like a small home with two rooms, more than ten meters square. The room that enters the door is bright and tidy, with a square table and a closet with some drinks and specialties.
Looking at smoked bean tea, xiào tea is a "special tea" with an interesting name, so I ordered a cup each.
Lift the curtain and walk into the side room. It's cool and breezy, small and quiet. Two bamboo square tables, a few bamboo chairs, an old-fashioned closet, and a bamboo bookshelf in the corner with some casual books. Every tea table is covered with a table runner made of blue printed cloth and a set of glass tea sets, which looks spotless. Outside the window, there are hundreds of buildings with flowing water, and the sound of smashing clothes on the shore is clearly audible.
Soon, my uncle came in smiling with a small glass lamp. "The wind is ready for tea.".
There are some broken petals of roses scattered on the snow-white sheet. From the top, there is not a drop of water, but it smells close and smells sweet like wine. Is this tea? My partner and I were surprised.
I scooped a spoonful, and the taste was sweet. The rice fragrance was accompanied by the fragrance of osmanthus fragrans. Then I took a sip of the soaked thin skin, which was soft and sticky, and melted at the tip of my tongue, and suddenly it was full of waxy sweetness.
It turns out that this wind tea is also called pot soup, and that white thin slice is pot soup.
Wash and cook the glutinous rice, dig a spoonful and put it into the pot. Hold the top of the spatula with your left hand and the middle with your right hand, and turn it clockwise vigorously. The rice will slowly turn into rice paste under the squeezing of the spatula. Under the baking of the furnace temperature, a thin layer of rice paste gradually forms on the edge of the pot. With the continuous rotation of the spatula, the rice paste in the pot becomes thinner and thinner. When the thickness reaches 1 to 1.5 mm, stop the fire and let the residual temperature slowly dry the rice paste. Then shovel it quickly, and the pan is served, which is the wind shovel.
"Li" originally refers to the thin and windy threads of cloth. As the name implies, it is this pot that is spread thinly and the wind blows, like silk swaying in the wind, giving off a faint sweet smell. The elegance of Nanxun people can be seen.
However, this piece of wind-hammer requires high production, so nowadays it is mostly made by machines. It is convenient to pack it in one pack.
put the shredded wind shovel in the tea bowl, sprinkle with white sugar and dried osmanthus, wash it down with boiling water, and the wind shovel will bloom like a lotus flower, float to the surface of the water and flow along the edge of the bowl, and the fragrance will curl up and come to the nose. Sweet, fragrant, waxy and smooth are the characteristics of Feng Yi tea.
This sweet smell is also a wonderful childhood memory of many Nanxun people.
When the Spring Festival is coming, adults will spread the wind, and children will steal the freshly shoveled dry wind, which is crisp and fragrant, and it is no less than the current potato chips. Generally speaking, it is once a year to make wind-pressed tablets on the kang. When guests come during the Chinese New Year, they should make a bowl of wind-pressed tea, which is "sweet and sweet" to make a good impression and good luck. If a new guest or a valuable guest comes to the house, such as a son-in-law, it is very respectful for the mother-in-law to invite her to drink tea with a Shui Bo egg.
just after a few mouthfuls of tea, grandpa in the teahouse came in with a teacup carefully. It must be smoked bean tea.
When the lid is lifted, a scent of sesame seeds comes to my face. There are red and green floating on the top, and the tea color is clear and blue. There are still some tea fruits lying at the bottom of the cup.
The green one is smoked beans. "The salt and soup in the boiling kettle are fragrant at first, and the charcoal in the oven is slightly familiar. I love this good color, and there are many beans in my boudoir in winter. " Smoked beans, that is, tender green soybeans are cooked with salt water and then smoked and dried. Besides smoked beans, there are dried carrots, dried tangerine peel, sesame seeds, medlar and green tea in the tea.
after a sip, my partner and I both frowned and it was salty.
Grandpa in the teahouse laughed and said, "If smoked bean tea feels salty, you can add water while drinking it, but you can't add water to wind tea."
I don't know if I added a few courses of water, but I got used to this salty and clear taste. Gradually, I found it fresh and delicious. Smoked beans are soft and delicious, carrots are crisp and refreshing because they have been pickled, and the fragrance of dried tangerine peel is irritating to people. Take another sip of tea soup, and the fragrance of tender tea is accompanied by the fragrance of sesame seeds, which makes people feel refreshed.
In Nanxun, almost every household smokes baked beans. The production of smoked beans is basically once a year, and they are usually stored in cans or packed in bags and put into pits, which will not deteriorate every other year. It can be used to accompany wine at ordinary times, and it is delicious for children to grab a handful and put it in their pockets. When guests come, they will take them out and brew them at any time. In the first month, they will entertain relatives and friends and feast on happy events. Smoked bean tea is the first choice, which means "sesame blossoms are rising day by day". In the past, women in large families had to drink when they had children, because "there are many children and grandchildren".
After having Feng Yi tea and smoked bean tea, the first three tea is a cup of green tea. Choose the local green tea, the fragrance is overflowing, take a sip, and the bitter fragrance lingers between the lips and teeth.
in nanxun, guests must drink these three bowls of tea to be complete. The first sweet tea shows the welcome to the guests, and the guests must be hungry when they come from afar, so the pot in the tea can be slightly padded; The second salty tea is appetizing and invigorating the spleen; The third green tea, with its elegant fragrance, can always linger when the host and guest gossip.
People in Nanxun often say that three tea is like life with all kinds of flavors, sweet, salty and light.
when you think about it carefully, this first wind tea tastes sweet, like a newborn, ignorant of the world, protected by people around you in every way, and has a sweet life. The salty taste of smoked bean tea is like a blow, which makes people frown. Being involved in the world is getting deeper and deeper, and everything is unsatisfactory, worrying about the taste, and mixed tastes. Who can solve it? However, adding water several times when drinking will eventually get the right taste, and only oneself can understand this taste. I have experienced a hundred kinds of life, and at the end, I realized that plain is true. I took a sip of tea and looked back. The only thing I could do was smile.
behind three tea, the enthusiasm, elegance, optimism, sincerity and simplicity of Nanxun people can also be seen.
Grandpa Zhu, a native of Changzhou, grew up in Nanxun, and the old house in the teahouse was left by his ancestors. Five years ago, Uncle Zhu's daughter opened this teahouse, and the retired Uncle Zhu and his wife helped her daughter and helped her.
compared with a cup of smoked bean tea in 15 yuan, a scenic spot in the south, 6 yuan spends a cup of tea, but the taste is not diminished, which shows the mentality of the owner of the teahouse.
Uncle Zhu is talkative and cheerful. During a cup of tea, guests often become friends.
There are many photos posted on the wall. There are no stars or big names. They are all unknown faces. They are photos of guests taking the initiative with the owner of the teahouse, and many of them have turned yellow. Looking at every photo, Uncle Zhu can tell the scene at that time. There are three or four guest books on the bookshelf, which are full of books. People from all over the world seem willing to leave something here.
If you pass through this place, you might as well rest your feet on a row of small bamboo stools placed at the door of the teahouse and go in for charging, which is also free. Or, like us, order a few bowls of tea, read a little book about Nanxun, look at the running water outside the window, and listen to the story of three tea told by the owner of the teahouse.