When it comes to the taste of Yunnan, or the characteristics of Yunnan cuisine, many people simply and crudely understand it as the word "spicy". I remember once eating at a "Yunnan Bistro" in Nanjing. The steam-pot chicken actually contained pickled peppers and Sichuan peppercorns. It was almost too raw and too cooked. Coincidentally, there are many restaurants in Yunnan that I have visited in other places. Although the store's visual appearance is actively moving closer to the ethnic style of the Southwest, when the food is served, the disappointment is always greater than the expectation, or the understanding is biased, and the restaurant is adapted to a ridiculous style. ; Either due to geographical and time constraints, and the rare ingredients with lethal power, flying from the plateau to Pingyang is the end of the war, and it is inevitable that flowers will turn into vegetable residues and grass sprouts will turn into water melons. Various climate zones in Yunnan meet, and the landform is extremely complex. Coupled with the rich vegetation and diverse ethnic groups, taking the word "spicy" as an example, spicy paste, spicy oil, spicy fruit, combined with sea, land, and air flora and fauna, can derive a hundred kinds of expressions. , a thousand levels of changes. But in my opinion, the beauty of cloud flavor comes first, from flowers to vegetables, from rice noodles to bait cubes, everything is fresh, hot and delicious. Although the pickled meat series also has its splendor, it can be left out of the discussion as a tributary. The most typical representative of umami is wild mushrooms, and the emphasis is on eating them in the morning and in the evening. There is a mushroom-picking scene in the Japanese novel "Teacher's Bag" that really moved me. A group of people took aluminum pots and portable gas stoves to the depths of the forest, picked a handful of oak mushrooms, fetched a mountain spring, and cooked soup on the ground to eat. Very happy. It is more troublesome to pick and eat now, but it is still possible to eat mushrooms in the morning, evening or even lunch in the local area. According to Dare Daran, "The mushrooms that have just come down from the mountain are commonly known as mountain mushrooms, which are synonymous with freshness. The mushrooms that have just come down from the mountain are grounded, dewy, pine-wind, and spiritual. The taste is indescribable...". Enjoying it in time is the correct way to use the spiritual energy of heaven and earth to worship the five internal organs temple. Since you want fresh food, sometimes for the ultimate food experience, you have to go to the secret place of Lin Qingyuan Village in the mountains. He who is called a chaotic master dares to be careless - the title "Shi" has rich connotations and specific context in Yunnan, and it can only be understood that it is difficult to explain in words - he is such an old mountain hero who walks all over the green mountains and sees the clouds. , from exploring the origins of food to relying on horses and talking about everything, from theory to on-site operation, everything is done with ease. When happy, he can even write a few crazy words about soy sauce. He can be called an all-round Yunnan miscellaneous expert, with unfathomable internal skills. I am a native of Yunnan. I studied in Ning and was stationed there. I accidentally became a senior wanderer. Nanjing is located at the junction of north and south, and has a variety of flavors. However, according to the pepsin theory advocated by Luan Shi, its own pepsin has buried its genetic code many years ago, and the most delicious or stomach-friendly food is The pickled vegetables from my hometown. When a wanderer is in a foreign land, he must also make every effort to replicate the flavor of his hometown in his memory under limited conditions. Since turning to Luan to specialize in Yunnan cuisine, he often copies the dishes cooked by Luan, carving them like swans, and is not afraid of the Fang family's jokes. Later, Master Luan gave me guidance, whether it was matching tips, rectification suggestions, preservation education or the seventy-two changes of potato, it was like a divine help. In his words, "I can barely compare to the originals." To use an inappropriate analogy, I really feel like the female ghost who learns the piano in the Chinese novel "Huan Niang". At first, "her voice was dull and dull, as if it was about to work but failed, but by six or seven nights, it actually became a song." What a pity, if you read "The Taste of the Cloud" and encounter such descriptions as Luan Shi, "an old ham that has been in good condition for more than three years, has a thin layer of fat and is white and jade-like, and the hairspring penetrates into the ruddy and mature muscle part, as obvious as marble. The texture is natural and beautiful. The slices are all thin, the fine oil is dense, and the chewing is full of flavor..." The homesickness defense built with hard work in the late night kitchen suddenly collapsed, and the saliva and tears flowed together. I could only choke and sigh. The wanderer can survive the twists and turns of life. In ten years, I can't resist pepsin raising its head for even one second. I remember one time I had dinner with Luan Shi in a restaurant in Kunming. I was just immersed in picking up the food, and he was talking about beer while eating. During this period, he also went into the kitchen three times to analyze the chef’s origin and operating characteristics. In fact, I suspected that he wanted to take over. The spatula himself went into battle. This is probably the difference between ordinary greedy people and experienced greedy people. Ordinary greedy people do not ask for detailed explanations, but the taste of food is not systematic. Senior greedy people study things and seek knowledge, and they pay attention to theory and combine it with practice. As for what the sect is and what principles it is, it is recommended that you read the three hundred chapters of Luan Shi thoroughly, so that you can get a glimpse of the secrets of cloud flavor and the true meaning of food taste.