Shandong people are known for their good drinking. However, as a Shandong native, I have been wandering around the wine table for more than ten years, and found that Shandong people can't compare with Mongols in terms of alcohol consumption, and the intensity of drinking can't compare with Northeast people. However, Shandong people have many customs and etiquette on the wine table, and there are many ways to drink. These things are mixed with good and bad, some enhance the atmosphere, while others make people dislike them. Let me tell you a thing or two here.

sit down first. Shandong has been a help of etiquette since ancient times, so the distinction between the guest and the host, the young and the old on the wine table cannot be sloppy. On the wine table, the position of the door is usually the owner or the owner (that is, the person who pays the bill and treats the guests), and the wine table is sometimes nicknamed "the owner of the manor";

In the position opposite him, the host comes to entertain the guests together, which is called "main escort". The names of these two positions are a little different from place to place, but their meanings are similar.

If friends from other places can't figure out the reason, I'll tell you a simple way: you can tell by looking at the folding of napkins in cups on the table. The folding method of napkins in these two positions is different. The host's napkin is usually folded into a cylindrical shape and inserted into the cup. The napkin of the host is folded into a fan shape. The napkin in its position is generally three-fold petal-shaped. The layout of the whole napkin is a bit like a phoenix spreading its wings. When these two seats are booked, the other positions will be determined. Sitting on the host's right is the "guest of honor" and on the left is the "guest of honor"; It is also important to be on both sides of the host, and the right is the top. It is best not to make mistakes when eating together. In the rest of the seats, the host and guest can sit at will, and these people are nicknamed "no three no four" on the wine table because there is no such thing as "three guests" or "four escorts" on the wine table.

the host and guest took their seats and began to pour wine. Shandong people like to drink, especially in big bowls. This seems to have the legacy of Liangshan heroes. Although there is no need for a big bowl now, there is no need for a small cup. If you see Shandongese drinking in a small wine cup in San Qian in a movie or TV series, it's sheer nonsense. At present, the standard cup in Shandong Province is a three-two-three tall glass (it is impossible to verify who first came into fashion, but a bottle of white wine can just pour three cups). Wine is generally white wine, and the degree is generally about 38 degrees (Shandong people don't like to drink high-alcohol very much). Of course, you can also drink beer, but it is generally converted according to the ratio of liquor to beer of 1: 6. After sitting in the table, everyone fills such a cup first, which is called the front cup. It means to let you clean your own snow. This glass of wine is a must for everyone present. It is disrespectful to the host or the owner not to drink it. Of course, the host will lead everyone to drink this first glass of wine. Generally, the host should have an opening speech, be polite and then set a standard. That is to say, this glass of wine should be finished several times. Generally, it is six times, which is called "six times". The meaning of "qi" includes the meaning of "developed", which is auspicious. In this way, under the leadership of the host, everyone can drink, eat and talk. This wine usually doesn't touch a glass. Shandong people call it "clinking a glass doesn't count." But when you raise a glass, you can click on the table and call it "over-electricity". You can often hear the ping-pong sound of glasses knocking against tables in restaurants. The wine table is nicknamed "Beggars' Meeting".

when the host leads everyone to drink this cup, it's the host's turn to speak. It is also a ceremony, and also leads everyone to drink a glass of wine. Under normal circumstances, two glasses of wine are more than half a catty, and the host and guest are flushed and the clouds are rising at their feet. At this time, the host announced that the ceremony was over and everyone could move freely. Note that this free activity doesn't really let you go out to sober up, but you can drink alone with anyone, and you can drink more and less without restrictions. Generally, at this time, the guests should express their gratitude to the host for his hospitality. Generally, the first round is the guest of honor and the host, the second guest and the host, and so on. During this period, it is the most active time on the wine table, and the relationship between the host and the guest can be brought closer at once. But this time is often a headache. Because at this time, there are already half a catty of white wine, and there are many tricks to persuade wine during the period, which is especially easy to get drunk.

For example, I hate a bottle-catching game in which I fight for wine in the banquet room. That is, one person in the competition has a bundle of beer (1 bottles) and one bottle is placed in the middle of the table. Competitors can't touch the bottle in the middle of the table until they have finished their bundle of beer. When you finish your beer, grab the beer in the middle first and drink it. The old fox has only played this game three times, 2 wins and 1 loss. Don't mention how uncomfortable it was the next day. There are still days to drink, that is, 12 months a year. You must name a memorable day, otherwise you will drink and others will drink. People often start talking nonsense before October.

Generally, when Shandong people treat you, there must be fish on the wine table. Fish is a "big dish" in Shandong, and it is called "big dish" on the wine table. Don't look at the delicacies, it can only be called "side dishes" compared with fish. It's not that Shandong people are rare for fish, it's mainly for good luck, "more than one year". Generally, when fish is served, the fish head rushes at the guests to show respect for them. At this time, guests should drink fish head wine, and people in the tail direction should drink fish tail wine, which is generally "three tails and four tails", and then everyone will eat fish together. The remaining fish bones are generally not removed. When the host asks them to take them away and then make a soup with them, he is actually saying: The banquet is almost over, and it's time to end. The soup made of fish bones is called "miscellaneous fish soup", which is to add fish bones and broken fish to the soup, add pepper and vinegar and stew it. It tastes delicious. Friends who haven't drunk it can make it themselves and taste it. It's delicious and not wasteful. When the soup comes, everyone drinks the wine in the tall glass, eats, and then the feast is over.

People in Shandong generally drink for a long time. Except for some ceremonial banquets, the time for banquets is usually more than three hours, while the time for gatherings between some close friends is even longer. Therefore, in Shandong, except for those who have a small amount of alcohol, most people have to drink half a catty for a drink, right? When the banquet is over, most of them must have big tongues and crooked steps.

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Shandong food customs

Shandong food customs, on the whole, belong to the northern type, close to Beijing and Tianjin, and are deeply influenced by Beijing and Tianjin. Coastal and island fishing areas, mountainous areas, plains, lakes, cities and ancient towns all show their own eating habits because of different natural environments, different production conditions and different traditional cultures, thus making Shandong's eating customs deeply branded with regional imprint.

Shandong food custom has its own distinctive personality, and its unique eating style and cooking skills occupy a very important position in China food culture, among which the flavor of dishes is known as one of the four major flavor cuisines in China. Shandong's daily diet and time-saving customs have a profound cultural heritage.

1. Geographical resources of Shandong diet

Shandong is a coastal province in China, located in the lower reaches of the Yellow River, and Jiaodong Peninsula extends eastward into the sea. Shandong has a variety of landforms, with broad and undulating hills and mountains, vast lakes and fertile Yellow River Delta. It is rich in resources and rich in fertile soil, which has prepared a rich innate foundation for the formation of the unique personality of Shandong food customs.

Shandong is an early and well-developed agricultural area in history, especially in most areas of Shandong Plain. Farmland development is very common and water conservancy facilities are relatively complete, which makes the planting industry in most areas of Shandong very developed and become the main economic source and food source in this area. On the contrary, with the gradual development and popularization of development, there are fewer and fewer natural collections, and mountain delicacies have almost disappeared from people's food resources. Even mushrooms and auricularia auricula, which rely on natural survival, have similar varieties cultivated artificially. Therefore, from the perspective of food resources such as grain, vegetables, fruits and fungi, the food resources in Shandong are mainly agricultural products and artificially cultivated products. Vegetables and fruits outside the season are mostly artificially cultivated products in vegetable greenhouses. Its main crops are wheat, barley, rice, corn, soybean, millet, sweet potato, sorghum, etc. Crops include cotton, sesame and peanuts. Its vegetables and fruits are more abundant, and they are produced almost all year round. The vegetables are Chinese cabbage, radish, potato, moss, lettuce, onion, Toona sinensis, celery, Chinese cabbage, manqing, preserved vegetable, fennel, lentil, lily, taro, kidney bean, ginger, centipede, root cabbage, kohlrabi, etc. Melons are generally divided into two kinds: fresh food and vegetable use. Fresh eaters include watermelon, melon, crisp melon, noodle melon, elbow melon, cantaloupe, etc. Vegetable users include cucumber, zucchini, white gourd, pumpkin, vegetable melon, rice melon, hanging melon, stirred melon, loofah, square melon, tripod melon, gourd and gourd, etc. Edible fungi can be divided into two categories: wild and domestic. Wild ones include Coprinus comatus, Umbrella Mushroom, Maoyuyu, Jujube Moth, Auricularia, etc. There are Pleurotus ostreatus, Lentinus edodes, Auricularia auricula, Tremella, Hericium erinaceus, Coprinus comatus, Flammulina velutipes, Tricholoma, etc.

Meat food resources mainly come from livestock products raised by families and farms collectively. Generally speaking, pork is the first bulk, followed by beef and mutton; Chicken is the main poultry, followed by duck, goose, quail, guinea fowl and so on. Because of the extreme reclamation of farmland and the developed agricultural cultivation, there is less and less land for grazing, and there is almost no possibility of free grazing in plain areas, and only a few natural grasslands are reserved in some mountainous areas and beaches. Therefore, family rearing has become one of the main sources of meat. Pigs and chickens should be kept in the family, so they are the main ones, and cows and sheep need to be partially grazed, so they are less; Ducks and geese need some water sources and are also limited by feeding conditions, so it is the second. Livestock and poultry mainly include pigs, cattle, sheep, donkeys, horses, mules, rabbits, minks, chickens, ducks, geese, pigeons, quails and birds.

relatively speaking, the water resources in Shandong are getting less and less. First, the freshwater sources and freshwater lakes are shrinking and degenerating. Except for a few freshwater lakes such as Weishan Lake, Dongping Lake and Mata Lake, there are some wild collections. The freshwater products in Shandong are mainly obtained by freshwater breeding and artificial cultivation. Secondly, the ocean and the Haihe River beach area, due to the advanced and expanded fishing equipment in recent years, there are almost no original Shandong specialty seafood varieties, such as prawn, yellow croaker, Spanish mackerel and so on. Ocean fishing and beach culture have become the main sources of seafood. The main aquatic products in freshwater lakes are fish, shrimp, crab and clam. Specifically, there are carp, grass carp, silver carp, snakehead, tilapia, crucian carp, turtle, eel, catfish, mandarin fish, rainbow trout, freshwater shrimp, Chinese crab, hairy crab, mussel, river clam and so on. The eastern coast is rich in all kinds of seafood such as fish, shellfish,

shrimp, crab and bath. Specifically, there are: Cargill, herring, croaker, Spanish mackerel, mackerel, pike, saury, hairtail, whitebait,

old head fish, sardine, pomfret, braided fish, shark, tongue fish, striped wolf, abalone, fresh shellfish and scallop.

Shandong's mountain resources are not very rich in the first place. In the 196s and 197s, excessive logging and blind farmland reclamation made rare wild animals that could supplement human food resources less and less, and most areas have started to close mountains for afforestation and returning farmland to forests and grasslands. Therefore, the rare wild animals in Shandong, which can be provided for people to eat, have also become artificially cultivated such as auricularia auricula, mushrooms, pheasants and mushrooms. Almost all the delicacies have disappeared from the table of Shandong people. On the contrary, grasshoppers, golden cicadas, silkworms and scorpions have almost become the delicacies on people's tables. Other common mountain game include scorpion, rabbit, pheasant Taishan antler, mushroom, civet, badger, Shi Wa, wild goat, roe deer, fox, mountain rat, fern, Toona sinensis, onion and leek. Except wild vegetables, other delicacies are rare now, and people no longer eat them.

Second, the cultural background of Shandong food customs

Shandong, which was called Qilu in ancient times, was one of the cradles of the Chinese nation's group construction period. The deposition of Yangshao culture, Dawenkou culture, Longshan culture and Qijia culture in the early historical period, the prosperity of Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties and the vertical and horizontal accumulation of culture made Qilu food cultural area in the northern food culture develop significantly, and thus became the most influential cultural area among many regional cultural areas. There are not only all the grains, fruits and vegetables on the land, mixed water and land, but also fish, salt and delicacies that are extremely scarce in the inland. Rich raw materials and products, developed iron smelting technology, urban commercial and historical and cultural advantages, as well as accessible transportation, make the vast area in the lower reaches of the Yellow River with Qilu culture as the center of gravity become an important developed area of national culture and food culture. As a result, "The Wind of Zou and Lu" has become the reference of folk customs in various regions of China. Shandong is also the hometown of Confucius and Mencius, the birthplace of Confucianism. Confucianism, represented by Confucius, almost dominated the whole feudal society and had a deep influence on the traditional culture of China. Confucius' doctrine of the mean endowed Shandong with the highest state of "harmony". Harmony with heaven, harmony with earth, harmony with man, harmony between heaven, earth, man and food. Its diet itself has also reached the most delicious realm, which is honest and peaceful, and the big taste will be weak.

specifically, Shandong's cultural background is divided into three regions with outstanding characteristics. Ancient Canal Cultural Catering Area, Qilu Cultural Catering Area and Marine Cultural Catering Area.

the ancient canal cultural catering area mainly refers to the catering culture of urban and rural areas on both sides of the ancient canal in Shandong province. This area passes through western Shandong and spans northwest, southwest and south Shandong. Beijing is the political, economic and cultural center in the north; From the south to Suzhou and Hangzhou, from north to south, Yanzhao culture, Qilu culture, Jingchu culture and Wuyue culture are all worn on the cultural ribbon of the Canal. Coupled with the east-west flow of the Yellow River, the spirit of Qin Jin culture was dissolved in the intersection of the canal and it. In this way, the generosity and trustworthiness of Yanyue culture, the prudence and openness of Qilu culture, the cleverness and talent of Jingchu culture, the flexibility and courage of Wuyue culture, and the gentleness and kindness of Qin Jin culture are all fused into a new cultural form-Canal culture. As for the specific diet, the residents of Zhucheng Township in the Canal area have almost the same holiday food customs, and the inherent food customs in various places have been widely blended because of the north-south flow of the Canal. In the old days, Yangzhou people in the south of the Yangtze River and Jining residents in the north of the Yangtze River all took the water from the canal to cook tea, and Tianjin residents' diet was also "all drawn from the canal water". People in Dezhou, Shandong Province still regard the "swallow-wing banquet" as a high-grade enjoyment at the banquet of wealthy businessmen in Yangzhou, while the banquet hosted by Confucius in Qufu is "four big pieces of shark's fin" and "three big pieces of sea cucumber", so the precious food raw materials such as sea cucumber, shark's fin, bird's nest, squid, ham, etc. are all over the town docks of the canal, such as Jining, Taierzhuang, Yanggu Zhang Qiu, Linqing and so on. Besides, snow wine from Tongzhou, withered wine from Taizhou, Jinhua wine from papaya wine in Gaoyou and Jinhua area, Qiao liquor from Baoying and Shaoxing old wine can all be found on the dock of Shandong Canal. With the convergence of customs and business culture between the North and the South, even in the industry language, the familiar Jianghu-style incisions of businessmen from the North and the South are popular, and argot or specific hand gestures are widely used in addressing, architecture, daily life, food, furniture, clothing, surnames and even astronomy and geography. Culture and religion