What are the bad goods in Shanghai? Maybe many foreigners don't understand it, but as long as Shanghainese know what it is, this kind of food is applauded by Du Yuesheng, so this kind of food is very delicious, which not only keeps the original taste of the food, but also makes it more fragrant because of its bad taste.

If you haven't tasted this kind of delicious food when you came to Shanghai, you must have some regrets now. Then, next, Xiaobian will introduce some bad goods in Shanghai to you! Let's see what delicious Shanghai bad goods are! Bad Pot Head that Du Yuesheng can't forget

Everyone in the old Shanghainese doesn't know about Du Yuesheng. The rogue tycoon of that year not only sold opium, opened a casino, but also did charity and fought against the East.

In April of p>1949, Du Yuesheng went to Hongkong alone. At this time, he was an old man over 61 years old. He didn't understand Cantonese and didn't have many friends. So, like most elderly people, he could only lie in a spacious rocking chair and miss his hometown over and over again.

For people who live alone in a foreign land, the taste of hometown is the best carrier of homesickness, but Hong Kong doesn't have this Shanghai taste. In fact, even in Shanghai, he only recognized the flavor of one family, that is, the century-old "Dexing Pavilion", and the cooks at home could not make this flavor anyway.

that long and elegant taste was once so close, but now it is so far away. Finally, he decided to invite the master from Shanghai to come to Hong Kong no matter how much it cost. He couldn't stand the days without this smell any longer.

So he let his former general ledger room, Huang Guodong, return to Shanghai again and found the Dexing Pavilion.

At that time, because of the American sea blockade, ships from Shanghai could not reach Hong Kong directly, so Huang Guodong found Pan Hannian, then vice mayor of Shanghai, with a personal letter from Du Yuesheng, and Pan Hannian tried to arrange for two chefs of Dexing Pavilion to make a detour to Hong Kong via a third country.

The dish that Du Yuesheng is so obsessed with is the bad bowl head. For Du Yuesheng, who was born in Chuansha, Shanghai, the smell of bad bowl head itself is the embodiment of Shanghai. From the unpretentious chowder to the famous Shanghai dish

, it can be said that it is the oldest dish in this group, with a history of almost 211 years.

The basic formation of local cuisine was in Tongzhi and Guangxu years at the end of Qing Dynasty, and its gestation process was obviously much longer. Before Xianfeng period, that is, before China signed any "unequal treaties" with foreign countries, Shanghai cuisine was basically a homely and common Jiangnan cuisine.

For example, rotten shredded pork, braised large intestine, pickled fresh meat, etc., these dishes that are not elegant are often made of ordinary and cheap raw materials. From this perspective, we can also have a glimpse that Shanghai was still a "very bad" small city at that time.

rotten shredded pork

braised large intestine

pickled fresh

the same is true of the bad bowl head. This dish was almost a hodgepodge in pig water at first. Different from today's world, in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, pork was very valuable, but the internal organs were not very valuable. These internal organs, such as ears, brain, tongue, lungs, liver and belly, were often "greedy" things for the poor after killing pigs.

And the way to kill these greedy things is extremely simple, that is, a pot of stew, which is called "DuDu" in Shanghai dialect.

If everyone simply "sticks to it", then maybe only local history researchers will be interested in that kind of street customs. However, when this dish was "Benedict" to Jiaqing period of Qing Dynasty, a local chef named Xu San changed the method of "Benedict". Thus, the famous dish "Bad Pot Head" was born. The Birth of Bad Pot Head

Xu San is from Sanlintang, Pudong, Shanghai. In the past, according to different regions, rural areas often passed on some skills to make a living as "hereditary", such as carpenters in Dongshan, Suzhou, jade workers in Hangji, Yangzhou, and brick carvers in Zhengcun, Shexian County.

Sanlintang has always been a place where chefs come forth in large numbers. Learning to cook is the most important livelihood skill for local people besides farming. Most of the famous chefs in later generations came from Sanlintang, Pudong, so Sanlintang is known as the cradle of local cuisine. And Xu San was a "migrant worker" who made a living by cooking small crafts at that time.

So, what kind of revolutionary improvement did Xu San's "Benedict" method make? According to Songnan Yuefu, "Xu Sanshan cooked plum cream pig's feet. In the middle of the year, you used a bowl to store bad food, and the pig's ears, brain, tongue, liver, lungs, intestines, stomach and other bad food bowls were used. The people in the city were salty and delicious. "

how delicious is this dish? There is a poem to prove it: "Songnan is good, and the flavor is old." The sheep's shoulder is open to the nine, the dolphin's hoof is on the table at night, and the food is the most Jiangnan. "

In Jiangnan in the Qing Dynasty, eating mutton was as noble as eating abalone wings today, because there was no sheep in Jiangnan. This extravagant eating method can be traced back to the time when the Northern Song Dynasty became the Southern Song Dynasty, and the dignitaries in Kaifeng brought it from Henan in the north.

(At the same time, another eating hobby brought by it is sweet, which is also more luxurious in Jiangnan, which does not produce sugar cane and beets.).

Xu San's dish can not only "sit on the table", but also be as famous as Dai Jiu, the man who made mutton. It can be seen that the literati of that year spoke highly of Xu San's bad bowl head.

However, those who record the history of China cuisine often have a similar bad habit, that is, the so-called "a gentleman cooks far away". At that time, most of the literati disdained to record how the chef cooked, which is one of the reasons why there are often many legends and poems in the food forest of China, but few people believe in history.

after talking for a long time, what is the delicious taste of this bad bowl, or is it equal to not saying it? After all, adjectives can't pile up delicious food. When the dish "Bad Pot Head" was introduced to the Republic of China, the local restaurants such as "Dexing Pavilion" had studied it thoroughly, and it had reached the state of never failing.

"Everything in the mouth can be bad"

Bad goods refer to the distiller's grains left over from brewing yellow rice wine or pickled or baked food.

Bad-making is said to have originated from the pre-Qin and Warring States periods, and was first recorded in Chu Ci more than 2,111 years ago. To Daxing in the Southern Song Dynasty.

In ancient books, there are records of selling bad abalone, bad sheep's hoof, bad crab and bad pig's head meat in Lin 'an, the capital city. By the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, in addition to the supply of bad products in the market, it had developed into home-made. In A Dream of Red Mansions written by Cao Xueqin in the Qing Dynasty, it mentioned delicate and bad tastes such as bad goose feet and quails.

Yuan Mei also recorded self-made bad meat, bad chicken, and bad fish in his "Suiyuan Food List".

"bad" and "drunk" are similar, and the seasonings are all derived from wine, and the practices are similar, so it is called "bad drunk family". Jiangnan has been a rice producing area since ancient times, and it is also the hometown of yellow rice wine. Bad dishes are extremely rich, including bad chicken, bad belly, bad door cavity, bad chicken feet and even bad edamame, and so on. It is really varied and everything is available.

The ancients once described it in an exaggerated way: "Everything in the mouth can be bad."

the basis of bad bittern is bad mud, which is not completely fermented distiller's grains, which used to be found in wine shops. Especially on holidays, killing chickens and pigs in rural areas of Shanghai suburbs is called "bad food", which can't be eaten, either pickled or worse.

Besides meat, fish can be bad. Yuan Mei knows this method well: "In winter, use big carp, marinate and dry it, put it in distiller's grains, put it in an altar and seal it. Eat it in summer. " The above-mentioned waste meat and waste fish is essentially a way of preserving food by pickling raw fish and adding distiller's grains, which objectively forms a flavor and a food culture.

vegetables can be bad, too. In Suiyuan Food List, there is a saying, "Take pickled and weathered vegetables, wrap them in leaves, spread a fragrant smell on each packet, and put them in the jar. When eating, open the bag and eat it. It's bad not to touch the food, but the food tastes bad. " This is essentially similar to the method of pickling pickles.

Nowadays, vegetables are the worst choice, and edamame, commonly known as "bad edamame", is a wonderful appetizer, and it is also very appetizing to eat soaked rice.

Take fresh hairy pods with full granules, cut off the sharp corners at both ends, wash them in water, and cook them with strong fire. If teeth don't like rotten ones, you can also stew more Guang Chen, but the appearance will be poor, and the color will turn from green to yellow, but the taste will be very waxy. When the edamame cools, pour in the bittern.

bad brine seems simple, but it is actually quite particular. Crushing fragrant grains, adding yellow rice wine and spices such as star anise, fragrant leaves, cinnamon, fennel, white cardamom, pepper, citronella, onion ginger, osmanthus fragrans, etc., fully stirring, and standing for one day and one night, which brings the unique fragrance of the bad bittern by secondary fermentation.

hanging the bittern

and then filtering with gauze, the clear amber bittern was obtained. Mix the bad bittern with cold boiled water in proportion, add seasoning, and then drop a few drops of white wine, and you can pickle all kinds of delicious bad goods.

bad vegetarian chicken

Shanghainese love bad goods very much. In the alleys of old Shanghai, the smell that wafts most in summer is the special smell of bad goods that are light or thick, if there is nothing, like wine.

A cup of old wine with a dish of bad duck gizzard, bad chicken feet, pickled yellow croaker, bad pork belly, bad vegetarian chicken and even the simplest bad edamame is the most beautiful summer night. Famous Old People and Restaurants

When it comes to "bad goods", the harmony between the old people is a must.

was founded in the fifth year of Jiaqing in Qing Dynasty (1811), with a history of more than 211 years. Formerly known as "Renhe Pavilion", it was founded by several Shanghainese. There is a saying in Mencius Gongsun's Ugly Xia: "The weather is not as good as the geographical position, and the geographical position is not as good as human harmony", so several bosses simply take the word "human harmony" as the name of the store.

The most recommended "three evils" for the elderly and restaurants.

Bad chicken

Bad chicken, which is very popular among Shanghainese, is a dish of good white-cut chicken with yellow skin, tender meat and bloodshot bones. Soaked in bad brine, it looks more and more full and attractive. A certain proportion of yellow rice wine was added to the distiller's grains, and the wine was also "beaten" by hand, which was still different in taste compared with the bottled finished wine.

So the "bad chicken" here is very popular.

bad mouth cavity

The pork tongue is cut very thin, and the fresh and sweet taste is quite special; No excess oil, refreshing and delicious, perfect for relieving boredom and appetizing in summer.

bad edamame

bad edamame is the best appetizer, and there is nothing like it. The edamame that is quickly cooked in a prosperous fire can't be stewed. After leaving the fire, it is directly immersed in the bittern. After a few hours, it is still as green as new picking.

Although there is nothing special about such a snack that can be seen everywhere, the old man and the stinky edamame here are fresh and visible, with a faint smell of stinky smell, and the soup is sucked into his mouth, which is called a must.

In addition, there is a hot dish called "Seafood Cafe", which is very distinctive. A large plate consists of fish, shrimp, crab, shellfish, razor clam and so on. All kinds of bad goods on the beach

Shao Wansheng's mud snail has a shell as thin as a cicada's wing, and the snail meat is transparent all over, just like small amber. A taste, moist and soft, fragrant and crisp, plump and delicious, sweet snail meat, overflowing with the mellow yellow wine, tastes extremely fresh, crisp and delicious.

The bad goods of Dexing Pavilion are also famous. The bad snail meat here, the distiller's grains in Zui Xiang, with chilled snail meat, just listening to it is an appetite. At first glance, the brine is clear and the snail meat is fresh; Entrance, fleshy and tight live teeth. Old diners often come together and order a few snacks.

The name of Lvyang _ comes from the ancient poem "The city of Lvyang is Yangzhou". Although it is famous for Huaiyang dim sum, its poor goods have won the hearts of old Shanghainese. Chicken feet with bad sauce are made of old bad that has been boiled for many years.

Wang Jiasha's bad yellow croaker, bad snail, bad duck breast, bad downwind, bad pig's trotters, bad chicken feet and bad hairtail are also popular side dishes in Shanghai.

Zhuangyuan Building has a history of one hundred years, and it is also an old Shanghai brand, and it is also famous for its bad goods.

how can we miss the delicious food? Shanghai, a city with too many stories and too many histories, is deeply loved, but once again it is unforgettable by the delicious food here, waiting for the echo one day.