It was also written that Chaotianmen, where two rivers in Chongqing (Yangtze River and Jialing River) flow, was originally a place where Muslims slaughtered animals. After slaughtering cattle, Muslims only want their meat, bones and skins, but they throw away their internal organs. Sailors and trackers on the shore pick them up, wash them, pour them into the pot, and add spicy things such as pepper, pepper, ginger, garlic and salt to make them full. Therefore, the hot pot in Chongqing originated from Chaotianmen Wharf. However, whether in Jiangbei or Chaotianmen in Chongqing, it is an indisputable fact that Chongqing hot pot originated from riverside and wharf. Because Bashu and Sichuan have the eating habits of "respecting taste" and "spicy and fragrant", they are seasoned with pepper and pepper, and later developed into small vendors selling along the street. With the spring breeze of reform, Chongqing hot pot quickly radiated across the country. From Golmud in the hinterland of northwest Gobi to Shanghai, an international metropolis on the coast of the East China Sea; From Harbin, the northern ice city, to Haikou, the capital of Coconut Island, there are hot pot restaurants in Chongqing, and the unique flavor of Chongqing hot pot can be tasted everywhere. It can be said that Chongqing hot pot is popular all over the country with infinite charm. However, the development of authentic Chongqing hot pot has always been conservative, and the large-scale Chongqing hot pot technology has never spread abroad and has been developed in the form of joining. The franchise fee ranges from tens of thousands to millions, and the storefront has strict regulations, ranging from several hundred square meters to several thousand square meters. Not to mention the decoration money, the store rent and franchise fee alone will make the majority of small and medium-sized investors look at the hot pot. -Only rich people dare to think and do can they join Chongqing hot pot and earn the rolling financial resources brought by hot pot.
It is said that beef omasum hotpot began to appear at banquets in Chongqing during the Qing Dynasty. During the Anti-Japanese War, hot pot restaurants in Chongqing developed greatly, and hot pot restaurants opened all over the streets. In the twenties and thirties, the Lushi couple in Chongqing opened the Sanwu hotpot restaurant, followed by famous hotpot restaurants such as Yunlong Garden, Bookstore, Yisiyi, Wuzui and Qiaotou. On this basis, it evolved into a modern Chongqing hotpot. Hot pot is a traditional way of eating in China, which originated from the Han nationality and has a long history. Chongqing hot pot, also known as hairy belly hot pot or spicy hot pot, originated from the extensive catering mode of boatmen on the Jialing River and Chaotianmen in Chongqing in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties. Later, with the development of society and the change of history, people's eating habits and the unique flavor of Chongqing hot pot were gradually loved by people.
Although the container, manufacturing method and seasoning of hot pot have evolved for thousands of years, one thing in common has not changed, that is, burning the pot, conducting heat with water (soup) and cooking (rinsing) food. This cooking method appeared as early as the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, which can be said to be the embryonic form of hot pot.
It is recorded in Han Shi Zhuan that in ancient times, when offering sacrifices or celebrating, the way of eating was "ringing the bell to set up a tripod", that is, people gathered around the tripod, and put beef, mutton and other foods into the tripod to cook and share. This is the bud of hot pot. After the evolution of Qin, Han and Tang dynasties, there was no real record of hot pot until the Song Dynasty.
Lin Hong, a Song Dynasty poet, mentioned eating hot pot in his "Mountain Family Festival", which is what he called "Summer Festival", and said that when he visited the teacher's road in Wuyishan, he ate a rabbit in the snow without a chef. "Shi Yun, only a few batches are used in mountainous areas, and wine, soy sauce and pepper are expected to flow. Put the stove on the table, use half a glass of water (half a bucket), wait for the soup to ring (after the soup is boiled), and divide it into chopsticks, so that you can put it in the soup (rinse) and cook (eat), so that you can use the soup to let (everyone) eat at will. " From the way of eating, it is similar to "rabbit hot pot".
It was not until the Ming and Qing Dynasties that hot pot really flourished. On the tenth day of the first month of the forty-eighth year of Qing Qianlong, Emperor Qianlong hosted 530 tables of palace hot pot, which was the highest in China at that time. When Emperor Jiaqing of the Qing Dynasty ascended the throne, there was a "thousand banquets", and the number of hot pots used reached 1550, which was amazing.
Spicy hot pot originated in Chongqing. During the light years of Qing Dynasty, hairy belly hot pot began to appear at banquets in Chongqing. Chongqing hot pot has a long history, from the time when boatmen cooked tripe in pottery stoves at Jiangbei Wharf to the "eight pieces of water" simple hot pot sold along the street, until the Ma brothers in Zaifang Street were officially pulled into the restaurant in the Republic of China 15, and gradually became the staple food. It experienced the evolution of historical periods such as War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression and Cultural Revolution, and gradually formed history through the changes of categories such as "washbasin hot pot" and "mosaic hot pot". It has a history of a hundred years, and it is reasonable to become a business card of the mountain city.
In this round of collision, Chengdu hot pot is obviously at a low peak. However, Chengdu hot pot conforms to the character of Chengdu people in this respect. In the case of the next peak, he would say: hot pot has a long history, and our ancestors used tripods to cook thousands of years ago. Isn't that the originator of hot pot? In addition, when Emperor Jiaqing of the Qing Dynasty ascended the throne, a grand banquet of 65,438+0,550 hot pots had been held. That is 1796. At that time, your Chongqing hot pot was still drinking cold air with the boatmen on the river!
Starting from this idea, Sichuan hot pot is more willing to find its ancestors among boatmen on the banks of Luzhou or Yibin. This situation never happened before the separation of Ba and Shu.
Facing the inheritance of history, the attitudes of the two places to hot pot are completely different. Because Chongqing Hotpot pays more attention to and cares about this old signboard, it turns history into a burden and is bound by a series of "old" words such as old brands, old traditions and old crafts, although it is also strangled by the concept of "old stove". But compared with Chengdu hot pot, it is obviously a little late. The short history of the latter has become a reason to go into battle lightly. Coupled with Chengdu's profound Sichuan cuisine culture and compatibility with hot pot, a large number of hot pot brands with high reputation in all parts of the country have been created, which are supported by various fresh hot pot eating methods. Compared with beef tripe, yellow throat and duck intestines in Chongqing hotpot, Chengdu hotpot is derived from hotpot chicken, hotpot fish, fish head hotpot, fat rabbit hotpot, beef tendon hotpot, Malone boy chicken soup pot, cordyceps duck soup pot and seafood hotpot with different tastes and eating methods. This change in turn stimulates and affects the development and changes of Chongqing hot pot, making them gradually converge.
There are different opinions about the origin and origin of beef omasum hotpot, and its origin and origin are worth discussing. According to the old liberation, beef omasum hot pot originated from the "eight pieces of water" on the pier and cheap street food stalls in Chongqing. Eight pieces of water are beef offal (beef tripe, liver and kidney, beef blood), sliced raw, and put different dishes in several plates. The gravy of spicy butter is cooked in a casserole on the mud stove in the food stall. Diners bring their own wine, choose a grid, stand in front of the booth, pick up the raw slices on the plate and eat them while they are hot. After eating, it is priced according to the empty plate. It is cheap, economical and convenient to eat, so it is welcomed by dock dwellers, vendors and urban poor.
As for the authentic beef omasum hotpot, according to the memories of the old Chongqing people, it appeared around the 15th year of the Republic of China, and its birthplace was not Jiangbei, but Zaifang Street (now under the Yangtze River Bridge) at Jimen in the lower city. At that time, cattle dealers rushed beef from Sichuan-Guizhou Road to Chongqing, spent the night on the south bank, crossed the river early the next morning, and rushed the cattle to Zhafang Street for slaughter. Brother Ma bought tripe and Xuewang, which are not easy to sell at a low price, and opened a red soup tripe hot pot shop with tripe as the main dish in Xiazaifang Street, imitating the production and eating method of "eight pieces of water" in the market. Bleached and washed, pedicled, and added with a dish of sesame sauce and garlic paste.
It is said that this is the origin and name of Chongqing beef omasum hotpot. Until the War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression period, there was still an old woman named Ma in Jiaochangkou Street who opened an authentic tripe hot pot, and the tripe in the dish was priced according to the horse (20 cents per horse). Authentic spicy beef omasum hot pot, beef omasum tender, crisp and fragrant, tastes far better than other cattle and pigs, and is well received by diners. Due to the influence of Chongqing hot pot, Sichuan hot pot has gradually flourished and its content has become richer. Most of the hot pots in Sichuan are mainly Chongqing hot pot, and the hot pots in various places are tributaries, which merge into a river of food.
With the passage of time, Chongqing hot pot gradually swept the country. Large hot pot brands such as Dezhuang, Little Swan, Qin Ma, Kong Liang, Sister Su and Qi Hot Pot have emerged. There are 10 hot pot enterprises with well-known trademarks and famous trademarks in China, and 17 hot pot enterprises with annual turnover exceeding 100 million yuan, among which 14 enterprises have successively entered the top 100 restaurants in China. Among the top 20 hot pot enterprises in 2005, Chongqing accounted for 1 1. The "Hot Pot Banquet for 10,000 People" held in Chongqing has more than 1,000 tables of hot pots, stretching for 1 .3 km. More than 300,000 citizens gathered at the scene, and more than 6,543,800 people dined. It can be said that the scene is grand and rare in the world.
In Beijing, large and small hot pot restaurants have sprung up like mushrooms after rain; In Shanghai, Chongqing hot pot violently hit the beach; In Nanjing, rooted in hotels and people's homes; In Shenzhen, "mountain city hot pot" can be seen everywhere; In Tianjin, Kunming, Guiyang, Lhasa, Xi 'an ... Chongqing hot pot has spread all over the country, and it is full of fragrance.
Cross the ocean and settle overseas.
Du Yu hot pot is not only fragrant in large and medium-sized cities and border towns in China, but also as the cooking culture of Chongqing cuisine, it has crossed the ocean and settled in Japan and Nanyang. Chongqing hot pot is very popular in Hongkong and Taiwan Province. In foreign countries, such as Japan, the United States and Russia, Chongqing hot pot also has a certain influence. China specially sent Shenzhen Huaxia snacks to train Chongqing hot pot senior chefs, and sent MasahiroTaijun to perform in Japan. Japanese friends spoke highly of it and were full of praise. They think beef omasum hotpot is "the best food in China" and call Xu Yuanming "Mr beef omasum hotpot". It shows the attractive charm and influence of Chongqing hot pot. In Tokyo, new york, Moscow and other places, Chongqing hot pot has been opened and its business is booming.