Ancient people were very dependent on nature. If we look at the poems about the ancient times sung by people at the end of Yuan Dynasty and the beginning of Ming Dynasty, such as "When a crab remembers frost *", "There are many tides near the sea", "White fish and purple crabs are fattened in the four seasons" and "Peach blossoms and spring water are filled with puffer fish", we can imagine that the living habits and conditions of ordinary people at that time were just the level of "cooking fish pots with wild rice at sunset and selling crab boats with wax sails in autumn water". Until the Qing Dynasty, an area far away from the city wall, such as Dinggu, was still a simple cooking method of "boiling red crabs in clay pots and fishing for white fish with shredded pork". However, we should not forget that it is this simple cooking method that has laid a solid foundation for Tianjin cuisine's seasonality, unique flavor and future by going up one flight of stairs. Zhou Baoshan, a poet in Tianjin, wrote a sentence "The season is just right" in his poem "The Poem on Bamboo Branches in Jinmen", which explains why Tianjin people pay special attention to the customs of "being timely" and "celebrating" in their diet. The so-called "seasonality" means what to eat in what season, and the seasonality of Tianjin cuisine is determined by the seasonality of products.
The river and sea scales produced in Tianjin are very seasonal and difficult to preserve, which leads to the seasonal habit of Tianjin people to pay attention to eating river fresh, which varies from spring to summer to autumn and winter. Once a fresh water product is on the market, buyers flock to it within a few days. "Tianjin is full of smoke, and the people have eaten it."
The so-called festival means paying special attention to food. Tianjin has always put "agriculture, fishing and mulberry first, poetry and books first", and "in recent years, the five parties have mixed up and the last days have been driven by the masses", which has led to extravagant learning and more folk customs spread among the people.
Since ancient times, Tianjin people have their own unique views on celebrating longevity and marriage, praying for blessings in the New Year, offering sacrifices to ancestors and worshipping Buddha. However, with the development of the times and the evolution of society, Tianjin people's beliefs gradually faded, and gradually formed the custom of taking food as a gift, making food as a Buddha, and commemorating various festivals with food. This custom has been passed down to this day.
Then, how do Tianjin people achieve "timely" and "festive" in their daily lives?
Let's start with beginning of spring. On that day, it was eating green radish or purple radish and shredded cabbage, which was called "biting spring" (meaning "biting off the spring of osmanthus in time and making a spring breeze every year") and "giving a banquet to eat spring cakes".
Spring Festival is the most important festival in a year. This used to be the custom of farmers. Farmers who have worked hard for a year celebrate the harvest at the end of the year, placing offerings such as pigs, cows, sheep, food and fruits, and thanking the gods for their gifts. With the changes of the times, people's reverence for God has gradually weakened, and the objects offered for worship have been enjoyed by people, and worship of God has become a ritual, while diet has become the focus. "One night is two years old, and one night is two years". On the 30th night, every family will eat jiaozi in order to get the meaning of the second child. This China New Year meal in jiaozi should be made of at least three or four fresh fillings.
On the first day of the first month, "all vegetarian", "friends and relatives worship each other, hold a banquet for a few days, and invite spring wine the next day".
On the second day, I respect the god of wealth and eat all the dishes to make noodles, in order to make money.
Eat "stuffing" in the third grade. Later, it developed to the second day of the first day of Jiaozi, the third day when the zygote turned home (earned), the zygote added eight (meaning "the zygote didn't leave home on the eighth day"), the zygote added nine, and the zygote turned (the zygote was originally a symbol of reunion and beauty, which means "the zygote turned around and gained more").
On the fifteenth day of the first month, in addition to "eating glutinous pills, the day is round and the night is round" (symbolizing reunion), cakes in the shape of hedgehogs and mice are steamed, and gold ingots are carried on them (when offering sacrifices to hedgehogs and mice, their faces are facing outwards; After the sacrifice, the face turned inward, indicating that the treasure had been carried home.
On the fifteenth day of the first month, it is a festival to make up for the position, and as usual, it is to eat "dry rice and fish soup".
The first day of February is "the birthday of the sun". Cut the paper into chicken, paste it on tofu, and bake sugar cakes for the sun to eat.
At the beginning of February, 200 insects were stung, which was called "the dragon looked up". It was a "day to eat cake and stir-fried cake powder (commonly known as" stew ")"
After the annual spring scare, the ice and snow melted and the shrimp came immediately. Fishermen break the ice and pull the frozen net at the estuary, and it takes two or three days to consume 100 kilograms. In case of a typhoon, their lives will be in danger, so the waterlogged aquatic products are particularly valuable at this time. Shaking shrimp, as the name implies, is that it has been on the market for a short time, and it has passed in ten days. Shaking shrimp is four or five centimeters long, with thin skin and tender meat, fat and delicious, and white color. It can be fried, roasted, fried, peeled and stuffed, and it is a valuable seafood. It's a bit out of date, with thick skin and thick meat and poor taste.
At the end of February, Tianjin gourmet puffer fish was listed. "Eat a fresh meal, and you will not be wronged when you die", mainly for puffer fish. Secondly, the popular food is crucian carp, which is big and small. Although it is difficult to have a big feast, cooking or frying fish balls at home is also delicious on the family table.
In March, sea crabs went on the market, and a poem said, "Golden Gate endures in March, and sea crabs flourish."
Before and after the Qingming Festival, it was the beginning of spring thunder in Grain Rain. Yellow croaker and prawn, the specialties of Bohai Bay, swam to the estuary in droves and went on the market one after another.
Author: Leng Yan Baby 520 April 2007-15 13: 56 Reply to this statement.
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4 Reply: Tianjin Customs
At this time, the yellow croaker is full of fresh fat, golden belly scales, white and tender meat, neat and bright, each of which is over 500 grams. Because of the large batch and low price, everyone eats: "Haibang 72 sells, * buys fish and shrimp regardless of money"; "The aquarium is like a dish, and it really regards the flavor as an idyllic vegetable." Yellow croaker in estuary has been a tribute since Ming and Qing Dynasties. There is a saying in "Zhi Zhu Ci" that "the first priority of the government is to ensure high prices, and Otani will set up a satellite mail in March. White flowers are not as good as yellow flowers. Obviously, you shouldn't make mistakes under your cheeks "to remember it. At this time, Tianjin Wei was cooked by everyone, and the population was fresh. At the same time, the chefs of Tianjin gourmet restaurant have racked their brains to make the yellow croaker dishes more novel and unique.
The other is the well-known prawn. Shrimp, called "Shahong" in the past, is also a tribute. Xu Cui's "Hundred Odes to the Golden Gate": "Shahong opposes Italian balance, the water is full at the beginning, and the east and west serve as couriers every year, and they also follow the east and west." Note: "Shahong, shrimp name. Tianjin is close to seafood prawns, and the big ones are too much. " At that time, there were pairs of box vendors in the streets and alleys of Tianjin; Even the old ladies in Tianjin are good at cooking prawns, and restaurants should add fresh vegetables such as prawns. Yellow croaker and prawn are trafficked to Beijing in large quantities. Although their value has doubled, they are still the seasonal food in the capital.
Soon, silver carp was also served. Although the eater hates its many thorns, he likes its delicious meat and quite likes it. There is a poem in Jiang's poem "Why is it mixed?" It says, "Everyone in Chunwang recommends a giant Luo, and the mud and fish taste the same. There is also a sigh in front of the bottle, saying that rattan incense hates thorns." When braising in soy sauce, add the newly listed garlic seedlings, and when steaming, add ham, magnolia slices, sesame oil and oil ding, which has a special flavor. Then, it is the day when "sea crabs crawl all over the street". At the same time, various kinds of "little seafood" appeared in the seafood stalls, such as clam, clam and green clam.
On May 5th, "Eat corn and drink realgar wine". Horn millet, known as "Zongzi" in Tianjin, is cooked with glutinous rice and dates (stuffed with bean paste) wrapped in reed leaves. On that day, the sale of zongzi was very fast, and everyone should eat it in time. The pastry shop has "stove zongzi", that is, white-skinned snacks made of zongzi with various fillings.
May and June are the time when noodle fish and white rice shrimp are on the market. Noodles fish are cheap, and there are many ways to eat them. You can add eggs to make a "noodle fish dish" or stir-fry it. Legend has it that when Emperor Qianlong went down to the south of the Yangtze River, he was stationed in Dagu and occasionally went to a fisherman named Zheng. There was a thunderstorm. The fisherman's taste is good, and the noodle fish is well done. Qianlong praised it all his life. The next day, when it was sunny, I gave the lined dragon robe to the fisherman and gave him a plaque of "leisure by the sea", which is the origin of "dragon robe Zheng" under the sea.
At the turn of spring and summer, the shad, known as the "crown of fish and vegetables", also came. Its taste is fresh and mellow, and its taste is excellent. Since ancient times, there has been a saying that "South carp and North silver carp". Although shad has only been on the market for a few days, it is regarded as a "seasonal dish" in restaurants and is priced by time. After entering the rich, flounder (commonly known as flounder) went on the market, which was big and fat, and Tianjin people were very particular about it. Every family likes to cook with sliced meat. Fish is delicious with meat, and meat is delicious with fish. There are many kinds of fish cooked in restaurants, such as official fried fish sticks, Bai Ding fish, fish rolls in clear soup, crab roe rotten pills, etc. It can also be made into a "fish mat" with unique local characteristics in Jingu to provide dinner for diners. The estuarine saury, produced offshore, has many fine spines and is delicious. Tianjin people call it "fibreboard saury". The width of a fish is like a tracker's fiberboard (an adult is about four fingers wide). Pancakes and boiled swordfish are the exclusive delicacies of Tianjin people.
Take the solstice in summer as an example. There is a rumor that "winter solstice wonton noodles in summer solstice" means "jiaozi's face is on his head, and pancakes and eggs are on his face". June 20th is Ma Shen's birthday, February1day is Vulcan's birthday, 24th is Guan Gong's birthday, 28th is the day when Lao Li (God's name) went home to visit his mother. They all eat noodles. In this season, there are shouts of selling pumpkin and mutton pies in the street, and there are shouts of selling "fried grasshoppers" in the street.
On the seventh day of July, it is the "Qiaoqiao Festival". Women set up melons and fruits, "floating on the water to hide their shadows with needles, and begging for cleverness every day". The other is eating melons in beginning of autumn and biting autumn every day, which can avoid diarrhea.
On August 15th, Mid-Autumn Festival, "Qilixiang sent moon cakes, Yue Bai set wine for relatives and friends to drink", "Duanyang Corner made Mid-Autumn Festival cakes, and a box came". At this time, the river crab is fat and beautiful, and it is known as "seven eating tips and eight eating balls". People in Tianjin buy crabs by washing the sediment one by one, then washing it with water several times and steaming it on the boat. They made crab material with vinegar, Jiang Mo, garlic paste and sesame oil, dipped it in wine and served it with home-made cakes and porridge. It is really delicious.
There are many kinds of crabs cooked in restaurants, such as slippery, fried, sour sand, fried and stewed. In terms of parts, whole crab, crab roe, crab meat and crab clip can be eaten separately, such as drunk crab, crab roe, crab roe fish belly, crab roe cabbage, fried crab meat, crab stew, cooked big clip, fried whole crab and so on.
At this time, frogs can be used in dishes, fried, fried, boiled and marinated. But now frogs are listed as protected animals, and restaurants no longer cook, so farmed bullfrogs are not better than frogs.
On the ninth Double Ninth Festival in September, mountain climbing is a step-by-step tour. "Jade Emperor Pavilion is a good climber. Make cakes with snacks and dates, and come to Wanqing Pavilion for breakfast, so that you can call chrysanthemums quickly and get drunk." There are many kinds of cakes, such as sticky cakes, fried cakes, cut cakes, basin cakes and dry cakes.
In winter, Tianjin people like to eat hot meals, so they have the custom of eating wonton from winter to Sunday. Besides, white gourd meatball soup, noodle soup, mutton chafing dish, mutton offal soup, and various kinds of "casserole stew" and "shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shabu shab A "assorted pot" made of crab roe, crab meat, shrimp, chicken, sea cucumber, white meat and magnolia slices ... A family or friends sit together and talk while eating, which not only enhances feelings, but also sets off the atmosphere and makes people feel happy. In addition, whitebait, purple crab, iron finch and leek, which are known as the four treasures of Golden Gate in winter, have also become the "hot dishes" of the restaurant at this time. The dishes cooked by whitebait and purple crab hot pot, sour crab, Korean whitebait, fried birds and leeks add delicacy to the table of winter diners. It's really delicious in early winter.
On the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month, "eat Laba porridge and cook it with Mi Dou jujube chestnuts". There is a saying in Tianjin: "Sister-in-law, don't be greedy. This year is the year after Laba." On this day, I will cook some green beans and say: affinity beans. For charity. Not many people know about this move now. Twenty-three honeydew melons and rice cakes will be used to worship the stove. The nursery rhyme says, "Come in the New Year. Twenty-three, Kitchen God, Heaven. Twenty-four, write couplets. Twenty-five, sweep the house. Twenty-six, stew fish twenty-seven, kill cock and hen. Twenty-eight, white hair. Twenty-nine, steamed bean basket. 30 stay up late. " In other words, after Laba, it is necessary to prepare new year's goods and send new year's gifts. The most common new year's goods are chicken, duck, fish, meat, sea cucumber, jellyfish, kelp, eggs, pine flowers, gluten, vermicelli, sushi, flower cakes, steamed food and so on. There are whitebait, purple crab, pork, pine flowers, shochu, tea, fresh goods, snacks, leeks, flowers and so on. A Qing writer Fan Bin wrote: "Golden Gate is good, and China is a treasure. Fish bones, shark skins, sea faults, crabs and clams chilled. The deer feeds the New Year. " In the past, on New Year's Eve, besides snacks, offerings such as chicken, duck, fish, fruit and so on were prepared. This custom is still preserved and continued by others.
From this point of view, the "seasonal" and "seasonal" foods and dishes in Tianjin's "food customs" are so colorful that some food customs are still "talking". All these have had a certain impact on the formation and development of Tianjin cuisine.
However, Tianjin cuisine can develop to this day because it is more favored by social consumer groups.
Tianjin people recognize the time-honored plaques, not only because these time-honored brands are genuine, with good quality and quantity, but also because of their unique craftsmanship and traditional Tianjin flavor. According to "A Brief Introduction to Jinmen", the old Tianjin people eat sugar-fried chestnuts and eat Zheng San's fried chestnuts downstairs of Dongmen brand. The sign "Choose Zunhua Chestnuts" is hung at the door of his house. Pick one by one by hand, add syrup frequently when frying, and the fried chestnuts are sweet and skinned. A poem said, "I prefer to have more chestnuts in the street and fry them loosely with sand." No matter how far away they live, people who eat will come here to buy them. People in Tianjin always want to buy peanuts from Zhang Er's house under the Drum Tower or the "big head" in front of the Confucian Temple. The melon seeds of "Big Head" are all white. If you want to eat refined sugar (that is, southern sugar), it is best to eat it in your own alley or Yongyuanzhai in the east gate, and eat the big stuffing sugar at the mouth of the North Jinsheng Garden in Gulou. Eating Yuanxiao, Xiangdezhai in Hubu Street is the best. Shake as much as you buy. It's full of stuffing, sweet and fresh. Eating moon cakes in Maojiahuo Lane is the best way to win Lanzhai. The sesame seed cake in the east gate is the best. Xiang Dezhai's home-cooked dishes are best branded and feathered; Eight Poems of Chun Yongde are well known. Even Ding's candy piles and string of hutong dumplings are famous in Tianjin. The sugar piles he sells are exquisite in materials and fine in processing. When the sugar is boiled to the optimum temperature, it will melt after a day or two and will not stick to fur coats.
Go to the restaurant, eat mutton buns, and go to Madong Road to "be in estrus"; Eat pork buns for "old fool"; Eat jiaozi and go to Yanchun Square, and eat instant-boiled mutton and roast beef and go to Yongyuande. Much better than the "barbecue bay" in Beijing. Eat eight bowls to "Ten Jin Zhai" and Fang Tianyi; Eating roasted sea cucumber should be "aggregated"; Eat fried flounder and roast sheep, and then go to the "banquet house" ... the most famous is to eat high-class banquets.
"Golden Gate" also records many time-honored brands: "Dongquan lives in Maojia Huoxiang, and it is a small dish. Luzhuang Zifeng Temple Fish Zhai, West Gate brand downstairs, smooth, mixed with sauce and meat. Jia Gui Shunchang Hutong, ribs. Hutong chicken coop, chicken oil on fire. Kanluoji's previous steamed dumplings, big buns, Houjia Goubuli, Xiangdezhai, etc.
Others include: Dongquan in Gulou, Dongbaozi, steamed buns in Chajia Hutong, stewed beef in Zhangxiaoguan in alley, fried grasshopper at Gulou North Street 10, roasted meat in Sock Hutong, boiled crucian carp in Xitou Restaurant, stewed duck with duck king, dried cakes in Yangcun, dried cakes in Zhilanzhai, assorted biscuits and chicken soup wonton in Mingshunzhai and noodles in Shanggang.
In order to get "famous brands", Tianjin people are looking for these "time-honored brands" which are inexpensive, affordable, skilled, authentic and in line with Tianjin people's unique tastes. They ran from Hexi to Hebei and from south to east without hesitation. This special diet custom of Tianjin people has been passed down from generation to generation. ...
As the saying goes: "one side of the soil and water raises one side"; "One side's soil and water create one side's food culture". Since ancient times, Tianjin has gathered immigrants from five places and absorbed the dietary customs of eight places: dignitaries and dignitaries, saying "desktop" and "eating must be abbot"; What the poor value is "mothers make children" and "eating according to customs". Today's Tianjin people also like to eat Dafu's crispy rice, plain steamed stuffed bun on Shimenkan, ear oil cake and twist on 18th Street ... In order to celebrate their birthdays, relatives and friends still have to go to Hongqi Hotel, Goubuli, Deng Ying Building, Hongqi Shun and Banquet Building, which are famous in all directions in Tianjin.