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The legend of mutton powder

According to Jia Sixie's "Qi Min Yao Shu", rice noodles have been eaten in southern China since the Qin Dynasty, which has a history of more than 2,000 years. At that time, northerners used the method of making southern rice into strips for cooking, which was called Hu rice. Mutton is naturally beautiful and has a special aroma. In the early days, southerners were not used to it and did not use mutton as seasoning. Northerners love mutton, but historically pasta has been the main dish. They all missed out on the mutton rice noodles. In the beginning, pork was used as the main seasoning of rice noodles in Zunyi, just like other areas in the south. The level of Zunyi hoof pollen is still very high today. It is made from pig paws and used as seasoning. Zunyi, also known as Bozhou, was an important border town in the southwest region during the Tang and Song dynasties to resist the plateau tribes. Since the Tang Dynasty flourished in Taiyuan, Bozhou at that time was mainly garrisoned by the Taiyuan military group. In the fifth year of the Dali calendar (770), Luo Rong, a native of Taiyuan, Shanxi, led his troops into Bo to "quell the rebellion" and occupied Bo soil. Luo Rong was granted the title of Marquis of the state. In the thirteenth year of Dazhong (859), Chief Long of Dali Kingdom in Nanzhao claimed to be emperor and sent troops to invade Bozhou. Luo Taiwang, the fifth grandson of Luo Rong, was expelled and lived in Luzhou. In the first year of Xiantong (860), the Annan Protectorate restored Bozhou. In the fourteenth year of Xiantong (873), Nanzhao contacted the Yi tribe and captured Bozhou again. In the third year of Qianfu (876), two military families, Yang and Mu in Taiyuan, Shanxi, joined forces to regain Bozhou again. According to the current genealogical records of the Mu family in Zunyi, Yang Duan, the leader of the Yang family's army, designed to murder Mu Xingtian, the leader of the Mu family's army, to gain sole military merit. (In 2007, descendants of the Mu family also presented their genealogy and related materials to the Zunyi City Historical Research Association. There were indeed Mujia Temple, Mujiachuan, Mujialin, Mujiang, Mujiawan, and Mujia Temple in the old city of Zunyi. Lane and many other places named after the Mu family) The Yang family and the Shanxi descendants of Linghu, Cheng, Zhao, You, Lou, Liang, Wei and Xie who followed Yang Duan began to settle in Bozhou after Luo Rong. , and ushered in the Han Territory Division era of Yang clan in Bozhou for 29 dynasties and 725 years, which profoundly affected the political structure and customs and culture of southwest China. These immigrants from Shanxi who entered the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau earlier grew up herding sheep and eating sheep. In this vast and unfamiliar land, they understood from the bottom of their hearts that mutton is fragrant, not smelly. And they also master the traditional skills of processing mutton. However, the south mainly produced and consumed rice in history, so Zunyi Mutton Rice Noodles, which is now famous far and wide, was naturally born. Why is it that the mutton in today's Zunyi mutton noodles still has a typical northern flavor, and southerners still think the taste is stronger, but Zunyi people have no idea? Why are some of the new generation mutton powder brands in the South using the process of completely removing mutton and gaining considerable market space, while Zunyi mutton powder is still enjoying itself? That's why. Moreover, people in Zunyi have already developed this kind of taste, and it is difficult for them to change at any time like other people. This phenomenon just proves the originality and authenticity of Zunyi mutton noodles. It can be seen that the history of Zunyi mutton noodles may have begun when the Luo Rong family entered the industry in the prosperous Tang Dynasty, which is more than 1,230 years ago. It started at the end of the Tang Dynasty when Yang Duan and the villagers of the eight surnames started broadcasting, which is more than 1,100 years ago. 2. At the end of the Ming Dynasty, Sichuan was brutally massacred by the Eighth King Zhang Xianzhong. "As far as the eye can see, there is no human habitation." Only Zunyi Prefecture and two small counties on the back of Zunyi survived. Sichuan's population dropped sharply, leading to Huguang filling up Sichuan in the Qing Dynasty. During the war, a large number of Sichuan refugees fled to the Zunyi area. After the war, some of them returned to their hometown and brought the habit of eating mutton noodles to various parts of Sichuan. By the mid-Qing Dynasty, Zunyi mutton noodles had become famous far and wide and enjoyed a good reputation in the southwest. In the late Qing Dynasty, there was a story between Zunyi mutton noodles and Sichuan mutton noodles. The most famous Zunyi mutton noodles in the late Qing Dynasty were Yang Ji and Liao Ji. One day, a man came to Yangji Mutton Noodle Shop and wanted to be an apprentice. The Yang family was in need of hiring someone, but when they saw that the person was hunchbacked, they felt a little disgusted. So he said: You will not have a future in our industry, so you should find another job. The visitor did not give up and said that the handymen who washed dishes and swept floors were also willing to do the work. Seeing that he was sincere, the Yang family let him stay. As the saying goes: out of ten hunchbacks, nine are smart. This hunchback is not ordinary smart. In addition, the opportunity is rare, so I pay more attention to everything and consider it carefully. A few years later, he said goodbye and left. Hunchback opened a mutton noodle shop by himself. That is the famous Zhu Laogong Mutton Noodle Shop in northern Sichuan. Zhu Laogong, whose real name is Zhu Mingqing, was born in Shunqing Prefecture (now Nanchong, Sichuan). In the words of Nanchong people: Zhu Laogong "can be called the originator of rice noodles in Northeast Sichuan and even Sichuan and Chongqing areas." The relationship between Northern Sichuan mutton noodles and Zunyi mutton noodles is quite similar to the relationship between Yang Style Tai Chi and Chen Style Tai Chi. They can be called two stories with different stories but the same story in the process of local cultural exchanges in China. 3. In the last century, as northern cities began to eat rice, mutton rice noodles also became popular in some northern areas. Dunhuang mutton meal may be influenced by northern Sichuan mutton meal. Many places in southern Guizhou, northern Guangxi, and western Hunan were also accustomed to using mutton meal as one of their breakfast food choices in the last century, especially after the 1980s. And it has produced many local brands with delicious taste and good reputation. Zunyi people also began to open mutton noodle restaurants in Southwest, South China, East China and other places. People in various places have creatively developed the flavor of mutton powder based on local habits. Today, China's mutton rice noodle industry has begun to flourish. 4. In fact, the only accurate records about Zunyi Mutton Noodles are that they flourished in the mid-Qing Dynasty, or that they were already on the market in the Ming Dynasty. The above situations are all my reasonable inferences.

Why is this so? The Pingbo War in the late Ming Dynasty not only destroyed the Yang chieftain political group in Bozhou, but also destroyed the cultural memory of this land. The official residence, manor, documents, and materials were all burned, and even the tombs of the Yang family's ancestors were excavated. Even in today's Changming Dynasty, in the official data of some southern Guizhou counties that were once ruled by Bozhou chieftains for hundreds of years, they would rather shorten the history of intensive agricultural development for hundreds of years, and deliberately erase this period of time that is actually not true. A short historical memory. The tomb of Yang Can, the 13th generation chieftain of Bozhou, was accidentally discovered in 1957. It is large in scale and exquisitely carved. It is a treasure in the history of architectural sculptures in the Song Dynasty. The stone carvings and unearthed cultural relics in this tomb have indisputably confirmed the existence of the "Banzhou Prosperity". Today, the Tomb of Yang Can in Bozhou and the Hailongdun Site in Bozhou are both listed as one of the few national key protected cultures in Guizhou Province. The "Bozhou Boundary" cliff stone carving site on the outskirts of Chongqing is also listed as a key protected cultural relic. From the outside world, the Yang chieftains of Bozhou have positive reviews for their more than 700 years of achievements in border defense, immigration, reclamation, and development. What is gratifying is that Zunyi Mutton Noodles has now been awarded the title of "Famous Chinese Snack" and has also been included in the local intangible cultural heritage list by Zunyi City. 5. Every year on the Winter Solstice, Chinese people usually eat dog meat, dumplings, and some eat glutinous rice. We Zunyi people eat mutton, and more people go to the street to eat two bowls of mutton noodles. In that strong aroma, in that rich atmosphere, once again taste the magnificence of the Tang and Song Dynasties, the solemnity of the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, the simplicity of the Central Plains, and the spiciness of Yunnan and Guizhou. Deeply remember all the Chinese people of all ethnic groups who have fought and worked on this plateau in history. 6. In the 1950s, there were only seven or eight mutton noodle restaurants in the city. Later, they were changed to state-owned restaurants and collective cooperative restaurants. Steamed buns, steamed buns, noodles, and rice wrappers were all sold. Mutton noodle became a rarity and was processed " "Powder" objects and techniques are almost lost. From the 1960s to the 1980s, the two most famous and powerful noodle restaurants were both in Nanbai Town, Zunyi County. The restaurants raised sheep in groups, had complete powder pressing equipment, and had one-stop production operations. The business was very prosperous. After the reform and opening up, self-employed households have sprung up, and mutton noodle restaurants in Nanbai have also developed monthly and annual passes. Nowadays, some nostalgic people often criticize that mutton noodles used to be sold only for a few hours in the morning and became an all-night fast food. You don’t know when you can get fresh soup and haggis. The noodles processed by machines have become stronger. , the storage time is also longer, but the taste is not good; the meat is frozen in the refrigerator, cut thinner than paper, and turns into fine residue in the bowl. Nowadays, mutton noodles, a famous dish in Zunyi, reflect the characteristics of the times. From an economic point of view, sheep raising, slaughtering, flour making, and flour selling are all independent, with division of labor and cooperation, forming an industrial chain that covers both urban and rural areas in Guizhou and is going nationwide. Culturally speaking, this diet nourishes people's enthusiasm and is bringing auspiciousness and prosperity to this fiery land.