Fishermen like to eat saury. In the peak season of swordfish fishing, as soon as the small sampan landed, the women rushed to the seaside to pick them up. They pick up tiny swordfish and shrimp and throw them in the ground to dry. This is the so-called dried "fish manure", which is used to make crop fertilizer (which can be used as feed). Cut the saury and put it on the grate of a large iron pot. Put them vertically along the edge of the big iron pot, one by one, one by one. When the pot is full of salt, just sprinkle some salt on the lid and steam it. When it's cooked, call the children over, one for each. Children hold it in their hands, just like eating green corn cob. Fishermen's children run and jump on the beach, eating while walking, and they like to pick holes from an early age. After a while, a fish entered their stomachs, so they shouted, "another one!" One more! " If you only eat half a loaf of bread, your stomach will be full. This generous broadsword fish tastes delicious, and the more you eat it, the more fragrant it becomes. On the one hand, because it is fishing in peak season, fishermen like to eat fish caught in peak season. From a scientific point of view, fish approach the spawning period in the peak season of high yield, and accumulate a lot of fat and nutrition in the body. The fish before spawning is delicious and makes people feel delicious. On the other hand, these fish are fresh because they have just been caught from the sea.
Fishermen who have gone under the sea have this experience, and eating fresh fish just caught in the sea tastes the most delicious. The fish caught by fishermen at sea are put in the iron pot on the boat, and some homemade bean paste is added without any seasoning. After being fried, they taste delicious, which is incomparable to the careful cooking of famous chefs in any big restaurant. Fishermen said: if the fish goes ashore, even if it is still alive, it will taste much worse.
In the past, people by the sea ate many kinds of fish, but they only ate sea fish, not river fish, because river fish was considered to have a "muddy smell". In the 1970s, there was a drought, the water in the pond dried up, and all the river fish in the pond died, and no one paid attention to it. Now the river fish sold in the fish market is quite expensive, and some people actually spend money to buy it back for "early adopters". Of course, fishermen no longer regard fish as grass as before, and fish has become a precious thing.
The grain crops in the coastal areas of Jiaodong are mainly corn, wheat, soybean and sweet potato.
Corn tortillas, also known as "big cakes" and "Baba", fishermen often say: corn is a cheap and high-yield thing. If you give it some fishy fertilizer, it will grow. Because of its high yield and wide distribution.
The way to make tortillas is simple. Add some cold water to the corn flour, put it in your hand, heat it in a large iron pot and stick it on the edge of the pot. There is a large population at home, and Huang Cancan's cake sticks around the iron pot, which is very beautiful. If the bottom of the pot is fried with fresh fish, it will be more attractive.
Cake is coarse grains, and it is often difficult to swallow with non-irritating non-staple food. Fishermen's women always want to eat oyster meat with cakes when they drive to the seaside. Usually, when you eat a cake, you dip the onion in the sauce. This kind of sauce has its own bean paste, but it is more fish sauce or shrimp sauce, including flat fish sauce, shrimp head sauce, crab sauce and crab sauce ... These fish and shrimp sauces are eaten with cakes and are extremely unpalatable. It is "the enemy of rotten fish and shrimp."
The cake is also very salty, and people by the sea use "fish bittern oil" instead of salt. Every autumn, women will cut radish into thick strips and put them in the old soup of pickled vegetables (some people have old soup decades ago at home, and the older they get, the more fragrant they get). When they took it out, the radish strips were pickled into orange red. When they eat, they can only chew a little, which is salty, but not simply salty. It is fragrant and fresh, with endless aftertaste. When they pick up a piece, they are unwilling to put it down.
Steamed bread is also called "cake" and paper, which is generally more beautiful than paper. In the past, "cakes" were usually given to relatives and friends. People steamed paper when eating, so their own families could only eat white-flour steamed bread on New Year's Day.
Steamed buns, also known as "Laibobo" or "jiaozi", are mainly made of fried noodles, boiled noodles and cold water. Fishermen often use Chinese cabbage (also known as Christina) and meat buns, as well as crab roe buns, prawn buns and chicken buns.
In the fishing village, jiaozi is also called "water in water". The dumpling skin is very thin and there are many fillings. Jiaozi with minced meat is the same as jiaozi in other places. Seaside people like Spanish mackerel jiaozi and oyster jiaozi. Jiaozi Spanish mackerel, taking fresh Spanish mackerel, eviscerating, peeling, washing, cutting in half, taking out fish bones, and making stuffing with leeks, oil, salt and monosodium glutamate. The skin should be big and thin, and some are fist-sized. Each bowl can only hold two or three, and most people eat eight or nine.
Jiaozi is made of oyster meat and freshly scalded shredded radish. It tastes delicious.
Noodles, the best is fish noodles. Fresh fish pieces are boiled in water. When the pot is boiling, add noodles and vegetables before cooking. After the rice is cooked, fish noodles, vegetables and soup are mixed together, that is, soup and noodles are eaten together.
There are cakes, such as flour cakes, instant noodles cakes, oil cakes, home-cooked cakes, simple cakes, pies, sesame cakes, steamed cakes and so on.
Sweet potato is widely planted in the coastal areas of Shandong. During the famine years, sweet potato was the life-saving food for the people in fishing villages. During the three-year natural disaster, many people died of hunger. Some strong people were very hungry. They struggled to open up land in the mountains and planted several sweet potato seedlings. In autumn, those sweet potatoes drink the sea breeze and grow wildly. All sweet potatoes are as big as "little dolls". Many old people said with emotion: Sweet potato saved us.
In addition to cooking, there are many ways to eat sweet potatoes: cooked, kneaded into mud, used to make cakes with flour, used to make cakes with corn batter, and steamed bean buns with cowpeas. Wipe the sweet potato into silk and add water to cook it into porridge. In the past, after porridge was cooked, saccharin was added, and some sugar was added to make it sweet and smooth, commonly known as "sweet potato thin". Peel the cooked sweet potato, slice it, air dry it, and seal it in a jar to make raw white wine grains as snacks, which is also an indispensable "dry food" for fishermen in the old days. Nowadays, preserved sweet potatoes and carrot sticks are also placed in the food glass cabinets of shopping malls in the city, but they are not as soft and sweet as those made by rural people themselves. In Wendeng and Rongcheng, there is a kind of food called "hanging cakes", which is complicated to make. Put the sweet potato noodles into the pot, sprinkle them carefully and stir them repeatedly to make them moist but not sticky. Put a reed in the pot, spread a cage cloth, screen the prepared sweet potato noodles on the cage cloth with thin thread, steam them in water, cut them into pieces and share them. They are fragrant, soft and "biting".
Bean noodles Baba, mixed with new corn and new soybeans in pairs, ground into new noodles on a stone mill, which is used in the following pot. This kind of noodles is very particular, the particles are not good, the flour is not well ground on the machine mill, the corn and soybean are not well mixed after being ground separately, and the ground noodles are not well stored for a long time. When making a cake, mix the dough with warm water, beat it repeatedly with your fist, and add cold water from time to time, so that foam will be produced in the dough. If the basin is full of foam, pinch some dough, fill the bowl with water and put it on the water. If the dough sinks immediately, it is still not cooked, so it needs to be mashed again until the dough and foam are fully mixed, and the dough is taken out and drained. At this time, stick it on the edge of the pot (like sticking tortillas), for example, stew fish at the same time, and the fish will be cooked with Baba, which is more delicious than tortillas. There is a proverb that says, "A fish will make a bean cake, and it will die immediately.".
There are many ways to replace food with vegetables. Cutting vegetables to make stuffing and corn bread to make cakes are called "vegetable cakes". Seaside people often chop seaweed as powder, mix corn flour and paste seaweed cakes. The most common is "dregs", also known as "bean foam" and "bean foam", which was called "semi-fermented grains" in ancient times. It is cooked with a small amount of bean powder and a large amount of wild vegetables. There are many wild vegetables that make slag. Wild celery is used in Muping and Rushan areas, radish tassels are used in Rongcheng and Wendeng areas, and sand is used in Haiyang County. As the saying goes: "The sand is good for slag removal, adults eat it and children catch it." Taro leaves are recognized as the best products of "dregs". When hoeing taro in summer and autumn, take tender leaves, hang them under the eaves to dry, and gently chop them with blisters when wiping the residue. This "residue" has a unique flavor and is very popular. There is a folk saying: "Stir-fry taro residue for three times, but don't change the fish."
There are many kinds of wild vegetables in the seaside mountainous areas, which can be used not only for cleaning dregs, but also for cooking, cold salad and kimchi. Decades ago, people in fishing villages often dug wild vegetables to satisfy their hunger because of the lack of rations. What puzzles them is that many people who live with wild vegetables all the year round live unexpectedly long lives, are strong and seldom get sick. In fact, all kinds of wild vegetables, bent down in the mud and perched in the crevices of rocks on the hillside, have developed a skill of resisting frost and snow, insects and diseases, and they are native, pollution-free and do not need any cultivation. They are all natural green foods. It has high medicinal value, and can provide a large number of amino acids and all-round high-quality protein, and its nutritional value is several times or even dozens of times higher than that of many cultivated vegetables. Many countries regard wild vegetables as "healthy food" and "natural food". Wild vegetables not only entered the fishermen's orchids, but also were placed on the seats of luxury hotels. It is very grand to celebrate the New Year in fishermen's homes. Slaughter pigs and sheep before the Chinese New Year and steam all kinds of jujube cakes, big cakes and lai cakes to prepare for the Chinese New Year. Dinner on New Year's Eve is a reunion dinner. As a New Year's Eve dinner, there are generally ten bowls of Lai, called "Ten Bowls", which is called the perfect and happy color, including fish, chicken, pig and mutton. There are many taboos when eating, such as not saying "not enough", not swearing, not putting chopsticks horizontally in the bowl and so on.
New Year's Eve is the busiest night of the year. In addition to respecting the ancestors of heaven and earth like other places, some fishermen are used to holding a ceremony to worship the sea god at the entrance of the beach, commonly known as "Xie Nian". Five kinds of animals, such as pig's head and mutton, and extremely rich dishes should be prepared in the New Year to express fishermen's wishes to Poseidon. The sacrificial ceremony was extremely grand. In Haikou, firecrackers did not go out, and cigarettes filled the air.
On New Year's Eve, we will eat jiaozi and jiaozi, which are wrapped in red dates and coins. Those who eat dates think that there is a happy event, and those who eat money think that they can make a fortune. Therefore, those children who can't stand being sleepy are also called to eat jiaozi for good luck. On the morning of New Year's Day, the hostess in some places holds a red candle as soon as she gets up, lifts the kang mat to take pictures, and then takes pictures of every corner, which means using light to drive away darkness and evil spirits. Then paste spring flowers, and paste beautifully cut dragons, phoenixes and tigers on doors, windows and walls. On the first morning of junior high school, jiaozi will cook some jiaozi, but we should not say "break" but "earn", which means making money. From the first day to the second day, firecrackers were set off continuously, and the next day, Nian was sent to the mountain after sunset. Offerings, incense, paper and firecrackers should also be placed when sending new year's goods.
The seventh day of the first month is "seven days for people", eating cakes and noodles.
On the fifteenth day of the first month, Lantern Festival, we don't eat many Yuanxiao in Jiaodong, but we usually hold a banquet and eat jiaozi.
On February 2 nd, commonly known as the dragon looks up, everyone gets up early to steam cakes and wish the dragon thorns in spring. General cakes include millet rice cakes and sorghum rice cakes, also called yellow rice cakes and red rice cakes. In some places, white flour or bean flour is used to make dragons, which are called magic worms. They are placed in grain depots and noodle cans to wish the endless supply of cereal noodles.
Tomb-Sweeping Day. In Rongcheng and Wendeng, noodles are steamed, that is, the noodles are made into swallows, steamed and hung with sorghum poles, and colored cloth strips are tied under the swallows' tails and hung at home. Long Island also says that this day is the "donkey's birthday" and sorghum rice porridge will be eaten on this day. When the meal was ready, a bowl of donkey meat was served first, so someone sang, "I can't forget the bowl of Qingming even if I beat a thousand and scold ten thousand."
On the Dragon Boat Festival in May, dumplings and boiled eggs are wrapped, and the fishing village gets up early to eat Ankang fish. Wendeng and Rushan used to get up early and wash their faces with water soaked in various flowers. On Long Island, after pulling dew in the morning of the Dragon Boat Festival, you go to the beach reef to touch abalone, which is called "touching the eaves". It is said that abalone climbed a lot that day.
The day of washing clothes, June 6 is the day of washing clothes. Jimo people say it's jellyfish birthday. Every day when it rains, a star will give birth to a jellyfish. Jimo eats cold noodles, and Long Island and Rongcheng eat steamed buns. As the saying goes, "On June 6th, I visited the show, and another big bowl of steamed buns contained a bag of meat".
In Fuli, the fishing village eats noodles in Fuli. At this time, the clams on the sea are very fat, and women go to catch the sea by plane and basket, and go back early to make noodles with them. .
On July 7th, every household in Jiaodong was branded with "Qiaoguo", that is, they ate small cakes with wooden patterns. Cakes have different styles, including face scissors, small baskets of noodles, noodles, tomatoes, melons, pomegranates, monkeys, chickens, birds, goldfish, shrimps, crabs and poodles ... After they are baked, they are hung around their necks with threads for children to eat.
August 15, eat moon cakes, wrap jiaozi, make noodles and arrows in some fishing villages, and eat taro, peanuts, radishes and sweet potatoes.
On the solstice in winter, fishing villages eat jiaozi and drink wine on the solstice in winter. It is said that drinking is to warm the body, and eating jiaozi is for fear of freezing ears.
Off-year, the 23rd day of the twelfth lunar month is the day of offering sacrifices to stoves, which is commonly known as "off-year" among the people. Sweet and sticky foods are mostly used for offering sacrifices to stoves, and glutinous rice cakes and honeydew melons are mostly used in Weihai. It is said that on the 23rd day of the twelfth lunar month every year, the Kitchen God will report the good and evil of people in this year to the Jade Emperor. Therefore, sticking honeydew melons and cakes on the kitchen god's mouth will make him "say more good things and say less bad things." On this day of off-year, fishermen's children are all sitting around the big house where honeydew melons are made in the village, eating honeydew melons and listening to the old people telling the story of the kitchen god. Every family eats jiaozi during the Spring Festival, so besides cakes and honeydew melons, there is also jiaozi.
Etiquette-related foods are characterized by gifts, such as marriage, daughter's return to her parents' home and childbirth.
In the old days, the fisherman's daughter married far away and returned to her family on the third day of the first month. The rich man's uncle is driving a mule with a left basket and a right basket on his back, a daughter-in-law sitting on one end and a gift for his mother-in-law's house on the other. Some daughters made new shoes for their parents, including single shoes and cotton shoes. There are gifts from my husband's family to my in-laws: two bottles of Lao Shao are my father's favorite, as well as various cakes and local specialties. When the daughter returned to her family, her family was not to be outdone. The big cake sent back must be whiter, more delicate and more delicious. Dough should be made of flour (refined flour), and the dough should be just right. After the production is completed, you should rub it as hard as possible, and the longer the time, the better. When the snow-white pomegranate-shaped cake comes out, the family can breathe a sigh of relief and light a red dot as a gift for their daughter to bring back to her husband's family. In addition, there must be "sea fish", dried fish fillets, salted fish, dried crab meat, shrimp and tiger cubs, fish larvae, dried mullet, dried squid, conch meat, shrimp, shrimp skin and shrimp paste, which are enough for the daughter to eat for half a year. This is a custom decades ago. Now my daughter goes back to her mother's house, and there are more fashionable foods, and no one rides donkeys. Most of them ride electric donkeys (motorcycles).
In Yexian and other places, before marriage, male families will send flour to female families, and female families will use this flour to make "wealth", "fish" and "mandarin ducks". The "main part" of all these pasta is filled with various small pasta, such as phoenix, swallow and lotus, and a dough sculpture is made, in which a small noodle man is inserted on the back of a big fish and called "king fish". All these are collectively called "early flowers", which means "wealth is more than enough" and "early birth". On the wedding day, all "containers" (boxes, cans, etc. ) The dowry needs to be burned with a red seal. Other fried foods, such as noodle fish and bergamot, are carried around in "cushion boxes", and the food left for the groom is called "personal dry food". When the bride returns to her husband's house from her mother's house on the third day, she needs to make dozens of steamed buns, fried noodles, ginkgo biloba and lotus leaves.
In Rushan, Wendeng, Rongcheng and other places, when the bride returns to her parents' home, her parents should prepare a "daughter-in-law cake" made of fine white flour, eggs, peanut oil and sugar. When making pancakes, the cushion should be uncovered at home. (The kang is too hot to burn.) It is very hard for neighbors to be experts in kneading dough and spreading pancakes. In some places in Rongcheng, thousands of small cakes and dozens of big cakes should be branded. The more branded they are, the more generous their parents will be. It's delicious, which shows that her family has good craftsmanship and strong ability.
Nowadays, young people are too troublesome, and the number of "daughter-in-law cakes" carried by girls when they get married is small, and the old people can accept this change. Fishermen have become rich and some ancient customs have changed. However, those eating habits that best represent the seaside flavor will never change. Those wanderers who have been away from home for decades, even wandering in foreign countries, are still obsessed with cakes such as stinky shrimp and beans in their hometown, and miss the days when they sat at the bow chewing fish heads and drinking.