The workers in the cubicle must have experienced this scene:

After lunch break, go downstairs to the underground food city next door to replenish carbohydrates, lock in a newly opened mala Tang, decorate it in Muji style, put meat and vegetables on a plate, and count by the catty.

But usually you have no idea about "30 yuan/Jin". There are colorful vegetables floating in twenty or thirty big pots, and there are not too many pieces of each. I want to eat more meat and vegetables. Three pieces of black-bone chicken rolls and two pieces of beef wrapped in heavy spices are quite restrained, and two industrial beef balls are better than nothing.

Two plates were smashed on the scale, and then the smiling cashier sister began to sing: 58 in total, hot pot, spicy and spicy sauce? Pick it up next to the small material.

When you wonder, "How can this pile of vegetables and leaves be 58", Xiaomei begins to get impatient. "Please open the QR code and buckle it here, the next one." Although you stand in the same place in pain, you hesitate to ask, "How much is the meat and food? Can you take less?" However, due to time constraints, in the face of "can't this person afford mala Tang?" You swallowed the question back into your stomach.

Thinking about life while picking up potato chips and looking at the expressionless diners around me, am I abandoned by the world or is the world destroyed? Why can there be 58 bowls of mala Tang?

I can't even afford mala Tang. I'm emo

Below 20 yuan, the probability of eating a bowl of ordinary mala Tang in Beijing is basically zero. Take Yang Guofu and Sean as examples. Take-out platform classic set meal is discounted at 2 1.6, and 2 yuan is added to the soup base. Industrialized meats such as meatballs and bacon are all meat dishes, so-called "50g" fish balls, but actually only 65,438+0 was given.

Only in the pricing rules of contemporary mala Tang, young people who don't visit the vegetable market can't understand how outrageous "two corn segments 4 yuan" is.

Mala Tang eats a pot of stew. According to statistics, under normal circumstances, mala Tang consumers will choose 10- 12 dishes for every meal, but the relatively cheapest vegetables will cost 4 or 5 pieces each. It is not a dream to calculate the cost of a spicy meal.

If you go to the store for consumption, caution and sober restraint are the basic qualities of eating mala Tang priced by the catty. After all, you can go straight to 40 without paying extra for sesame sauce.

After being beaten twice by the merchant, every time I fished vegetables from the basin, I had to toss it three times to drain the water from the scale. Experienced up master teaches the experience of picking vegetables: bring some kitchen paper towels and suck up every drop of water that leaks through the net.

The magic is one foot high and one foot high, and there is mala Tang packaged as "hot pot quality" in the shopping mall. The small, fresh and tall decoration shows that it is different from ordinary mala Tang.

Chicken feet and shrimp are rich in slippery meat, and Chinese cabbage is organic. Some of the six soup bases are nourished by Cordyceps sinensis, and some claim that pig bones are cooked to be mellow. Of course, the soup base is very expensive.

You think you're going to spend 50 yuan eating high-grade mala Tang until your fist gets hard 150 yuan's bill.

Looking back suddenly, it is all invisible routines: beef rolls are calculated at the unit price of 5 yuan; The weighing unit is 3.69/ 2. If you have no idea about 2, you may find it quite cheap. You can't see the rules until you check out, then it's too late to consider them.

100+ The mala Tang I bought is really unforgettable and fascinating. Of course, it is not the god of food who cooks mala Tang. Usually, if you don't scold your mother, you will be bound. There is nothing special about the taste. You can't get enough to eat with so much money. Tofu foam is very sour, and the value of synthetic fat beef rolls skyrockets as soon as they are sold.

Source: Public comment

Of course, because Mala Tang anchors 65,438+000 per capita, people are bound to be curious and have a high threshold. If you can't do the most delicious food in the world or the additional services beyond Mala Tang itself, it is inevitable to vent your anger in public comments unless you send me an ice pier.

We lost the fun of eating mala Tang, but mala Tang merchants gained the fun of counting money.

Yang Guofu's inferiority complex.

Mala Tang has become more expensive, and every store in Yang Guofu is not innocent.

Yang Guofu started from the grass roots, farming, raising pigs and selling mutton kebabs. In 2003, Yang Guofu and his wife opened Yangji Mala Tang in Harbin, which quickly became popular with low threshold and low cost.

Two years later, twenty or thirty stores were opened. Inspired by a steamed stuffed bun chain in Harbin, Yang Guofu began to join. By 20 10, Yang Guofu opened 1000 stores by joining, occupying three northeastern provinces.

Boss Yang, whose annual income is tens of millions, is not satisfied with doing small business. He also hopes that consumers can "eat the glory of mala Tang". The "dirty stall" with low gross profit and low elegance can't realize Boss Yang's ambition. Boss Yang found that the opponent was Starbucks. Although Starbucks arrogantly occupied the central area of CBD, there were still a large number of high-spending fans at 40/ cup.

Similarly, even if Sean is a big boss, he is full of inferiority to make mala Tang. "Mala Tang industry and enterprises have no culture, and it is quite shameful to participate in catering industry activities."

Compared with earning 1 yuan from 100 people, the way to earn 1 00 yuan from1people is much more advanced. Yang Guofu has come up with many ingenious ways to sell Mala Tang at a high price, subverting its image and reversing its position.

"Pricing by Jin" was initiated by Boss Yang. It is impossible for a bowl to be sold from 3 yuan to 8 yuan. It is better to have more optional weighing space. Boss Yang saw the great potential of homemade ingredients and gave two reasons: First, consumers choose according to their own preferences; The second is to give people the feeling of eating more flowers and eating less flowers to avoid the impact of price increases on passenger flow.

Source: Public comment

This method has been followed by Mala Tang's colleagues, charging by weight, unconsciously comparing a bowl of Mala Tang's ordering method with hot pot, and the unit price of customers soared. For example, Mala Tang removed all kinds of soup bases, and then all kinds of high-end ingredients appeared, and even the more outrageous pricing method mentioned above evolved. Mala Tang became noble and began to float.

Sean came from behind and opened a large glass French window mala Tang flagship store with an area of 1.500 floor in Harbin. Lobster as a side dish, it is not a dream that the price of mala Tang customers exceeds 100 yuan.

Source: Little Red Book @VIC.

However, the value has become more expensive, and the bad root of "dirty" in the era of dirty stalls still exists. Being rich didn't let Boss Yang do whatever he wanted. In the past two years, there have been many examples of mala Tang eating all kinds of unknown objects, and he was also poked by the big V insider pickup bureau.

In the unpublished video, the ingredients are not recycled overnight, and the sesame paste bitten by rats is still being used. I washed the basin with pig lungs and washed my shoes with a dish cloth. I knew the restaurant wouldn't be very clean, but I didn't expect the so-called scientifically managed mala Tang chain giant to be so dirty.

Source: 嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬嗬𵭜嗬𵭜𵭜嗬𵭜𵭜

High-end is not directly proportional to the degree of health and safety. After all, the noble Starbucks also overturned the car.

Yang Guofu, where the guest price is not low, is still very dirty. According to industry analysis, first, there are too many franchisees, the management system can't keep up, and there is no intention to rectify health. Secondly, Mala Tang still tests the supply chain capability and supports high logistics costs. If the customer unit price cannot support the logistics cost, it will easily lead to uncontrollable quality, and the problems among franchisees are more obvious.

The embarrassing situation of Mala Tang comes from the huge gap between consumers and businesses in their cognition of Mala Tang.

We hope it is delicious and affordable, and we can fill our stomachs with excitement. It is neither necessary nor important to put a noble coat on mala Tang. Merchants want to be bigger and stronger, take the high-end route, open in the big business district, and increase the variety of side dishes. Labor and rent costs are not low, so the price increase is imperative.

We even began to miss the messy stalls on the street that were dying and the mala Tang in the fly restaurant. Are they at least simple and delicious?

Some people say that low is the original sin of mala Tang. Mala Tang originated in Leshan, Sichuan, and is the crystallization of the wisdom of boatmen and trackers.

The workers who have no fixed place put the clay pot on the Shi Huo shelf by the river, made use of local materials, and put what flies in the sky, runs on the ground and swims in the water into the boiling river.

Eating salt was a luxury at that time. Zanthoxylum bungeanum and sea pepper as substitutes have become flavoring agents for boatman trackers to meet the needs of satiety, cold protection and dampness elimination.

Mala Tang has been linked to the consumption level of civilians since its birth. The spicy food in Sichuan is similar to the stew in the northeast, and the situation of gold diggers and gangs is similar to that of trackers. Everything is boiled with spicy water, which is very popular all over the country.

Someone once attributed the popularity of Mala Tang to its popularity and equality. All the ingredients are expensive and cheap, and diners have no burden. Since they choose to eat mala Tang, they will ignore the image and only care about the delicious food.

As a Northeastern, 10 yuan is the bottom line for me to eat mala Tang, and 20 yuan is the upper limit for mala Tang, because I can add sausage and a bottle of peanut butter.

Probably since junior high school, the bottom material of mala Tang has been flowing in my blood. Barbecue stalls are a paradise for adults to indulge in the middle of the night, and mala Tang is a magic medicine for students to spend a day with pocket money.

Pupils can usually only afford the abbreviated version of mala Tang, and a cup of beef tendon noodles with spicy red oil costs 50 cents, commonly known as "cup noodles". Students who spend a lot of money spend 1 yuan to buy a crab steak as a top match. In high school, I could afford a proper bowl of mala Tang, and the ingredients were not calculated by the catty. The container for vegetables is a small bucket with a depth of 20 cm, and how many dishes can be stuffed in by strength.

Mala Tang is packed in a bowl in a plastic bag, covered with spices mixed with Chili sauce, chicken essence and white sugar, and the strong taste instantly opens the appetite after mixing.

However, everything can only be done in secret. Mala Tang, spicy strips and fried chicken fillet are what my parents call "garbage three musketeers". When I was a child, my mother's ability to make up was terrible: spicy strips were stamped out with her feet, chicken fillet was made of mouse meat, and mala Tang was cooked in plastic bags.

However, this is the most cost-effective meal. Since I went home to work after graduation, I have to go to school to eat mala Tang. It still tastes the same. The price of each bowl increased from 10 yuan to 13 yuan. After eating, sending a circle of friends can arouse the envy of students from all over the world.

Wang Xinlei, founder of the new restaurant chain, said: "Some people may think that Mala Tang is very low-level, but it is a product of that era. Now the development stage of China society is different. Emerging consumers are no longer satisfied with such environment and ingredients, and the limitations of Mala Tang are highlighted, so we need to' redo' Mala Tang in a new way.

However, reversing the so-called low label is not expensive. High quality is not necessarily high-end ingredients. Mala Tang, which can satisfy the safety and delicious taste, is the top match.

People who love mala Tang will not feel mala Tang low. A bowl of mala Tang, which has no soul but a copper smell, is as expensive.

Cover source: Little Red Book @VIC.