Before cutting, the seedbed can be made of waste wooden boxes. The seedbed is about 40 cm wide, 25 cm high and 60 cm long. The cutting substrate can be loose, air-permeable, water-permeable and pollution-free vermiculite and perlite, and packed in a wooden box with a thickness of 20 cm. The cuttings are selected from the robust semi-wood branches that grew in that year, and the length is about 8 ~ 12 cm. The base of the cuttings is cut into oblique mouths to enlarge the wound healing surface. Trim the bottom leaves and keep the top 2 leaves. Peanut roots in the first generation are slow, so it is best to soak the base of cuttings with 0.05% ~ 0. 1% NAA solution for 5 ~ 10 seconds, and insert with the immersion, and the depth of the substrate is 6 ~ 8 cm. After insertion, spray it once with a fine-hole watering can, cover it with glass and put it in a bright and cool place.
After cutting for several hours, fog appeared on the glass cover, indicating that the air humidity is suitable. Always open the glass to check the soil moisture. If you find that the fog on the glass is sparse, you should spray water like fog. The purpose of spraying water in mist is to keep the leaves moist and the substrate surface moist. Spray more water on sunny days, usually twice in the morning and three times in the afternoon, less on cloudy days and stop spraying on rainy days. While keeping the substrate moist and the relative humidity of the air in the bed, we should pay attention to the fact that the substrate should not be too wet, otherwise the stems will rot. If the temperature of seedbed can be controlled at about 22℃, callus can be produced at the base of cuttings 20 ~ 30 days after transplanting. At this time, weak light in the morning and evening can be used to promote callus differentiation. Root primordium can appear in 40 ~ 50 days, and new roots can only be born in 50 ~ 60 days. After the cuttings take root, they can be exposed to sunlight at any time except 1 1 until 4: 00 p.m. to promote the root growth of seedlings and sprout new buds.
2. Grafting propagation, grafting instead of flowers, should be asexual propagation in April-May. Before grafting, strong immature bitter orange seedlings should be selected as rootstocks. It can be dug out in mid-March, planted in round plastic bags and cultivated normally (early May). After that, put the rootstock planted in the bag in the proper position of the branch of the substitute flower and tie it tightly so that the rootstock and scion are close together. The smooth and knotless stems of rootstocks and scions should be selected, and the xylem of rootstocks and scions should be obliquely cut with a length of about 3 cm, aligned with the cambium, and then combined with each other.
Substitute flowers are very easy to survive. Generally, it takes 40 to 50 days to produce new conductive tissues. After autumn, they can be cut from the mother and cultivated in medium-sized pottery pots.