A good Su-style noodle soup has the characteristics of "three scalds": noodles are scalded, soup is scalded, and bowls are scalded. Even in the cold winter, eating it can make you sweat. "Old Suzhou" will naturally eat it while it is hot, and it is better to finish the noodles in three to five minutes, which is the original flavor.
Even if it is a bowl of Yangchun noodles, because the noodles absorb the fresh soup from the meat bones, just eating noodles is enough to feel the strong taste.
Suzhou people who love to pay attention to it naturally prefer this dish.
I have been to Suzhou by chance, and I like this kind of noodles very much. Every word is fresh.
Suzhou people are famous for their "noodle soup". What are the Suzhou noodle restaurants that can't be missed in Suzhou?
Today, I went to eat a bowl of Sufa pot noodles with my friends, which has been retired for more than half a century. I'm afraid I can't catch up with the noodle soup, so I deliberately missed the morning rush hour before I slowly passed.
As soon as the pot noodles were served, we were busy taking pictures. It was about that when we didn't move chopsticks, Han Bobo came to our table and said with a smile, "The noodles are going to lump."
"In the past, three or four people ate the noodles together, and the bowl was so big," Han Bobo said with his hand. "When I was a child, I had to eat it with adults. In the past, there was more oil, and the oil in my mouth floated straight, which was delicious."
Five meat and five vegetables, commonly known as Five Blessingg.
Five meats: peeled pork belly, kai yang, scallops, tendons and shrimps.
Five elements: Lentinus edodes, auricularia auricula, day lily, bamboo shoots and oil gluten.
Vegetarian toppings should be wok with vegetable oil (huo, oil pan), while meat toppings should be wok with lard, which cannot be cooked in one wok.
Qian Wanxing's master improved the method of making the restored sufa pot noodles, using a little broth instead of oil, which made the mouth fresher, which was different from the thick oil red sauce that noodles were poured directly in the oil pan before.
The soup and noodles on the pot surface are separated, unlike Su noodles.
Suzhou people pay attention to soup, meticulous to the bone. At 3 o'clock in the morning, the masters will start hanging soup, and they will cook it for 4-6 hours with fresh pig bones, fan bones, grass chickens, mushrooms and pork skins. The noodle soup we drank at the store at 9 o'clock is the best to eat, and the full collagen makes the soup mouth "smack" and tastes thick.
With permission, we went into the kitchen to visit.
The aunt who cooked the noodles quickly grabbed a handful of noodles, and it was the standard for two and a half. She turned around and threw it into the boiling pot.
The prepared auxiliary juice is lined up on the side of the pot, and a spoonful is added to the bowl from the broth that has crossed the side (the pot is kept boiling), and this red soup is considered to be ready. When these two barrels of broth are used up, today's noodles will be over.
Just a moment later, when the water came out, I picked up a long chopstick and waved it into the Guanyin bucket. I quickly shook it in the air and turned it over twice, and rolled it tightly into a Guanyin head.
You don't drag the water or splash the soup when you fill the bowl, all in one go at the moment of turning around. Into the bowl, it should be like the back of crucian carp, slightly arched in the middle, and the noodles are as neat as if they had been coded.
Just the following efforts, it is impossible to do it in three or four years.
In Suzhou, spring is bamboo shoots and oily noodles, and in summer, we want to eat Fengzhen meaty noodles and three shrimp noodles. In autumn, it's time to eat crab noodles, and in winter, we only need a bowl of warm and sturdy hoof noodles.
Where to eat noodles is clearly the four seasons.
A few steps in a city is a noodle restaurant, which has been a junior for more than ten years. Every noodle restaurant that can be opened has every parent, and it is impossible to compete at one bite.
But if you want to eat this delicious bowl of Five Blessingg pot noodles, you have to come to Qian Wanxing.
Suzhou people like to eat noodles.
Many people eat noodles.
Noodles jiuduo
There will be more stress on the opposite side.
A bowl of authentic Soviet-style noodles pays attention to noodles, dew, soup, pouring and green.
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Pay attention to the surface
Eat freshly pressed noodles.
Noodles are noodles. Noodles need to be freshly pressed, and the taste of noodles will be poor after more than 3 hours, so people who eat noodles in the afternoon sometimes ask: Is it noodles pressed in the afternoon?
Below, there should be more water and less noodles.
The pot below should be big, with more water and less noodles. When the noodles are thrown down, the water is still boiling, and the heating time of the noodles is short, so the noodles are delicious. So the pots in the noodle shop are very big. If there is less water and more noodles, put the noodles down and the water will boil for a long time. That kind of noodles is not delicious. There is a professional term called "swollen noodles". Give this kind of noodles to customers, and no one will go next time.
Hard noodles and rotten noodles, you can ask for redone if you don't like them.
A short cooking time is called hard noodles, and a long cooking time is called rotten noodles. The rotten noodles are just softer, not really rotten. About half of Suzhou locals will ask the following masters to be harder or worse when eating noodles, and different masters may not have the same grasp of hard and soft. If the hardness is too unpleasant, you can ask for a new bowl.
Wide surface and fine surface
There used to be several sizes of noodles in Suzhou, which were distinguished by width. Wide face, universal face, fine face. In the past, ordinary noodle shops generally had two or three specifications, but now it is less, perhaps because the market is not sensitive to the requirements of noodle width, so now ordinary noodle shops only deal in one kind of noodles, but they have nowhere to go if they want to eat wide noodles.
Pay attention to dew and soup
The formula of a noodle shop dew cannot be changed at will.
Dew is the formula of all kinds of spices, which is prepared in the middle of the night and used in the morning. This is the root of a noodle restaurant, because dew determines the basic taste of noodles and the customer base, so the formula of dew cannot be easily changed. It is easy for an old Suzhou to find out whose noodles this is, or to point out where the noodles in the franchise stores are different.
The boss closed the dew himself.
Dew is usually a secret recipe, usually made by the boss himself. It is said that the dew of Zhu Hongxing, the largest noodle restaurant in Suzhou, contains juice boiled with eel bones. After some time-honored brands were publicly owned, many of them were lost, which led to the closure of those noodle restaurants.
Red soup and white soup
Those with soy sauce in the dew are called red noodle soup, and those without soy sauce are called white noodle soup. Nowadays, people eat less soy sauce, so the business of red soup is not as good as that of white soup. Most noodle restaurants only make white noodle soup, and occasionally there are several red noodle soup and white noodle soup. Only red noodle soup is less, but there are still some customers who like red noodle soup.
Ordinary red soup also contains sugar. If friends who can't stand the sweetness of dishes come to Suzhou, it's best to eat white soup noodles.
Soup is not very particular.
Soup, not particular, is just ordinary broth, and its taste is all in the dew. Before serving, oil and dew will be added to the noodle bowl, and the soup will be added, waiting for the noodles to come out.
Jin Tang Kuan Tang mixed noodles
Since dew is immutable, customers demand more soup. No soup is called mixed noodles, a little soup is called tight noodle soup, and more soup is called wide noodle soup. When handing in face-to-face tickets, what I hear most is the requirements of "tight soup and hard noodles" and "wide soup and rotten noodles", which are only made face to face with soup. Oil is extra, so people often ask for "free oil".
The soup and noodles that are tight are heavy, and the taste is light after adding soup. There are a lot of noodle soup in Suzhou, so especially the red noodle soup is too heavy, even if it is not tight, the taste is too fresh and salty. If you like light friends, you'd better eat white noodle soup.
head soup
Suzhou people of the older generation like to eat noodles in the early morning when the noodle shop is just open, because the water below is still clear at that time, and the noodles taste the best. The first pot of noodles under clear water is called "noodle soup".
Want to come "noodles in soup" has been sought after by Suzhou people for a long time, and the old people who get up early in Suzhou still maintain the tradition of chasing noodles in soup.
It's true that this noodle is delicious. The main noodle soup is that we eat noodles first for happy events here. The noodle soup is very important. It's all bones, chicken and kai yang's hanging noodles. It's usually medium-cooked. After eating this noodle, I feel that the noodles in other places are average.
Hello, everyone, I'm Lamian Noodles. I've been engaged in the beef noodle industry in Lanzhou for many years, and I have a unique and professional opinion on pasta with local characteristics. Noodle soup is not only the stress of Suzhou people to eat noodles, but also many pasta with China characteristics. For example, I also pay attention to eating the first bowl of noodles in Lanzhou, which is the same reason. Let me talk about the mystery below!
The personal homepage has a series of video tutorials made by Lanzhou Lamian Noodles and the sharing of various recipes in Lamian Noodles. Interested parties can go and see them.
Professional people watch the doorway, but they don't know how to watch the fun. Many opinions about the noodle soup are different, but they don't get to the point and don't tell the reason!
Pay attention to the first noodle soup: the change of umami flavor
No matter what kind of special noodle soup, all kinds of fresh seasonings will be used in the preparation of the soup base, such as monosodium glutamate, fresh fragrant treasure and so on. For example, there are many soy sauce soups in Suzhou, and various brands of soy sauce seasonings will be added in the production of the soup base, and soy sauce contains a lot of sodium glutamate, which is often called monosodium glutamate. That's why the soup base is delicious!
However, what many people don't know is that all kinds of seasonings added to the soup are not static, but the umami will be lost with the prolonging of the preservation time of the soup, which is the important reason why many people pay attention to eating noodle soup, that is to say, the practical significance of noodle soup means that the best taste can be experienced only by tasting the soup base just prepared at the first time!
Such a small detail in catering also reflects a phenomenon, why the taste of noodle soup base with stable passenger flow will not change much, while the taste of noodle soup base with unstable passenger flow will change from good to bad in one day! This is because noodle restaurants with stable passenger flow will adjust the amount of soup base according to the usual passenger flow, so the prepared soup will not be left for a long time, so the taste can be guaranteed, and the fresh flavor of the soup base will not be lost, because it will be sold out before the taste of the soup base changes. On the contrary, noodle restaurants with unstable passenger flow will sell the soup base from morning till night, and the natural taste cannot be guaranteed!
The personal homepage has the explanation of various practices of braised dishes and the sharing of the spice formula of braised dishes, and regularly answers the common problems in the production of braised dishes.
Pay attention to the first noodle soup: the preservation of the soup base
There are two important reasons that affect the change of soup base, one is the relationship between the flavor of soup base and time, and the other is the preservation of the prepared soup base.
Generally, in noodle restaurants, there are two ways to preserve the soup base. One is to continuously heat the prepared soup base with a small fire to ensure the temperature of the soup, and the other is to intermittently heat the soup base. When guests come, the fire is boiled or heated, and the fire is turned off when there are no guests!
The above two common ways of preserving soup base, no matter which, will cause the taste change of the prepared soup base, because the soup base will be accompanied by the evaporation of water during the heating process, that is to say, the water in the prepared soup will be reduced, but the seasoning will not be reduced, so the taste of the soup base will be too salty! The flavor of the corresponding other seasonings will become heavier, which will directly affect the taste of the soup base! This is also an important reason to pay attention to eating noodles in soup!
The personal homepage has the explanations of various practices of beef mutton soup and the sharing of experience in soup making, and regularly answers the common problems in soup making.
The taste of soup base will change with time, so will noodles, but the change of noodles is indirect!
Changes of noodle taste:
Whether the noodles are delicious or not mainly depends on whether the noodles taste strong and smooth, and whether the noodles are fragrant enough! In noodle restaurants, countless bowls of noodles will be cooked in a day, and most of the water used for cooking noodles in a noodle restaurant is used from morning till night, and this will lead to a situation. The greater the amount of noodles cooked, the more turbid and sticky the water will be, and the taste of the corresponding cooked noodles will change from smooth to sticky at the beginning, mainly because of the change of the state of the water for cooking noodles, so the first noodle soup, both the noodle taste and the soup bottom taste, are in the best state!
The noodles in Suzhou are all made of alkaline noodles, that is, edible alkali is added to the noodles. When the alkaline noodles are cooked, the water in the cooked noodles will turn dark brown or red, which is the function of the alkali in the noodles. At this time, the boiled noodles with changed color will also have a strong alkaline taste, so the noodle flavor itself will be covered by the alkaline taste, thus affecting the taste of the noodles! This will not happen to noodle soup!
The personal homepage has a series of video tutorials made by Lanzhou Lamian Noodles and various recipes shared by Lamian Noodles. I share them regularly:
Explaining various pasta practices, making various soups, and explaining various braised dishes practices.
What is noodle soup?
Suzhou proverb says, "noodle should be soup, bath should be muddy soup." It means eating noodles before it's too late, and the first soup noodles cooked carefully are always the clearest and freshest. The water below should be clear, and it will smell like alkaline water when it is muddy.
Suzhou people of the older generation like to eat noodles in the early morning when the noodle shop is just open, because the water below is still clear at that time, and the noodles taste the best. "Head noodle soup" is noodles cooked with the first pot of clear water in the morning, which has no alkaline taste. If there are too many noodles, it will be burnt, and it will have a strong alkaline taste. Only the noodle soup is refreshing and delicious.
Different from Huimian Noodles, beef noodles and Zhajiang Noodles in the north, a bowl of Su-style noodle soup is the most valued by Suzhou people, which is boiled in a large pot and shows its vigorous flavor. After a long time, the soup becomes muddy. Therefore, many old Suzhou people have to eat a bowl of noodle soup early in the morning to be truly full.
To say that noodle soup can be widely spread, it must be attributed to Lu Wenfu, a teacher. I have read the Gourmet written by him many times, and Zhu Zizhi, who has been despised and shameless by the protagonist, is simply my life idol in his persistent pursuit of food. He just likes to eat noodles in soup.
Every day when his eyes open, an idea pops into his mind: "Go to Zhu Hongxing to eat noodles in soup!" " If he doesn't eat noodles with soup on his head, he will be depressed all day and always feel a little unhappy if he eats a bowl of noodles with soup smell.
The world of eating goods is so inconsistent.
There are many exquisite noodle soup in Suzhou. First of all, a bowl of good noodles should be scalded four times: soup scalding, noodle scalding, pouring scalding and bowl scalding. The literal meaning is also easy to understand: soup should be scalded, noodles should be scalded, and it should be hot when eating; With more and more people eating noodles, it is difficult to do pouring and bowl ironing.
Every old Suzhou has its own preference for eating noodles, and the terminology of eating is also very Suzhou-specific: hard noodles, rotten noodles, mixed noodles, noodle soup, tight soup, wide soup, reduced salt, increased salt, heavy green, green-free, oil-free ...
Hard noodles require noodles to be cut off; Rotten noodles are slightly overcooked; No soup is mixed noodles; Less soup is tight soup; Too much soup is wide soup; Heavy green means more garlic; Oil-free means no lard; Heavy green means putting more garlic leaves, and green-free means not putting garlic leaves; Heavy surface and light pouring are more surfaces and less toppings; When crossing the bridge, the topping should not be covered on the noodle bowl. It should be put on another plate and carried with chopsticks when eating. Quite particular.
Nowadays, people don't pay much attention to this, and noodle restaurants also provide standardized noodle soup. If you want to "cross the bridge", you may have to pay more money. Of course, you have to pay more money to eat small dishes.
I've eaten Zhu Hongxing, but my authentic northerner's stomach really doesn't adapt to the kind of Su-style noodle soup with sweet topping and light taste. It's true that one side of the soil and water nourish one side, and one place has its own taste.
The noodle soup is not the name of a certain noodle. The noodle soup refers to the first batch of noodles when the noodle restaurant opens in the morning, because the water in the pot is fresh and the alkali in the noodles is easy to be released. The water behind will become more and more mixed with the noodles, which will affect the eating of noodles. The pot at the bottom is very big. If it is mixed, it will take time and fire to replace all the boiling water in a large pot. Therefore, in general noodle restaurants, fresh water is put into the noodle pot with the tap on at the bottom, but it is not as good as the fresh water in the first shop.
This is a kind of stress, but also a habit. Just like the old farmers in the northern rural areas, the first thing to do in the morning is to boil water first, then brew big leaf tea, and the tea oil is one finger thick after it is boiled. They are the most particular about drinking the first bowl. If there are relatives and neighbors at home at this time, they will persuade you to drink like wine, and they are very enthusiastic. But sensible people will never drink, and will find various reasons to be humble. If you meet someone who is not sensible, take it and drink it. They will rinse the teapot and brew it again after you leave. This is the stress of life and a kind of culture.
The most important thing for Suzhou people is to eat noodles in soup. Thousands of bowls of noodles, a pot of soup, if you go down to 1000 bowls, the noodle soup will be burnt, and the noodles coming out will not be so refreshing and slippery, and there will be a smell of noodle soup.
Head noodle soup, the so-called head noodle soup, refers to the first batch of noodles cooked with fresh water just after the noodle shop opened one day. Many people who have eaten noodles in Suzhou remember this scene, such as celadon-like soup bowls, all kinds of table number wooden clips on the square table, several green Chinese cabbage in the first noodle soup, and sesame oil and shallots floating on the surface. Many Suzhou people of the older generation have the impression that in the past, a bowl of authentic noodle soup could be eaten at Songhelou for a few cents. In addition, the first pot of bone soup in the morning is also better, and the toppings are fresh.