Flaming Crane

Flower candles are native to tropical rainforest climates, cultivation points are:?

1. Temperature: 20-25 ℃ for summer growth, overwintering temperature of not less than 15 ℃.?

2. Light: 15,000-25,000lux (note: medium light) is appropriate.?

3. Moisture and humidity: The root environment of flower candles requires moist and not dry, but at the same time breathable. High-quality flower candles depend on a high humidity environment, you should often give it foliar spray, so that the environmental humidity to maintain 70-90% is appropriate.?

4. Fertilizer:? Flowering candles need high potassium fertilizer.?

5. Diseases and pests: flower candles require high temperature and high humidity, and at the same time conducive to the occurrence of pests and diseases, increasing the difficulty of disease prevention and treatment. Mainly root rot, epidemic disease and red spider, prevention and treatment as above.

6. The quality and standard of flower candles: five palms of first-grade products, the plant is full; three palms of second-grade products; seven palms of special-grade products.

7. Propagation: asexual propagation by tissue culture is the main, family cultivation is commonly used to propagate by dividing plants.

Flaming Crane is also known as Anthurium. Anthurium is native to the tropical rainforests of South America. Prefer warm, moist and semi-shady environment, but intolerant of shade, like the sun and avoid direct sunlight, not cold, like fertilizer and avoid saline. Potted anthurium should choose a well-drained substrate, large-scale production of peat, perlite, sand mixed substrate, the ratio of: 1 cubic meters of peat: 4 to 5 kg of perlite: 0.15?cubic meters of sand. The PH value is maintained between 5.5 and 6.5? The optimal growth temperature of 20 ℃ to 30 ℃, the highest temperature should not exceed 35 ℃, the lowest temperature of 14 ℃, below 10 ℃ at any time there is a possibility of frost damage. The optimal relative humidity of the air for 70% to 80%, should not be less than 50%, because the cultivation environment to maintain high air humidity, is the key to the success of the cultivation of the red palm. Therefore, more foliar spraying should be carried out throughout the year. The optimum light intensity is 10,000?Lux? and should not be higher than 30,000?Lux. Anthurium is intolerant of strong light, and should be cultivated under proper shade throughout the year, i.e., choose greenhouse cultivation with protective facilities. Proper shade should be provided in spring, summer and fall, especially 70% shade in summer. Direct sunlight will make its leaf temperature is higher than the air temperature, leaf temperature is too high will be burned, scorched leaves, make the buds fade, leaf growth slows down. Anthurium can be reproduced by dividing, sowing and group culture. Dividing, you can choose a sunny day in spring, summer and fall, the plant from the pot with a hand to gently peel the sucker buds, double plants (equal size) for potting.?

A, planting 1. pot specifications potted crocus seedlings to seedlings of different growth stages of the pot specifications are different requirements, the seedling stage has generally been completed in the nursery company, we purchased the crocus seedlings are in the seedling (15 cm or so) more than, so, in the pots planting, pots can be a one-time use of the selection of 160 × 150?mm? red straight-sided plastic pots planting. 2. cultivation medium Cultivation substrate must have a strong ability to retain water and fertilizer, good permeability, not waterlogged, does not contain toxic substances and can fix the plant and other properties. Before planting, the substrate must also be thoroughly sterilized to kill pests and diseases and maintain normal growth. 3. Potting Anthurium is a shade-loving plant, and requires 75% shade netting to prevent excessive light. Double-planting is better than single-planting, and it is important to make the growing point of the heart of the plant exposed to the level of the substrate, while avoiding the plant from staining the substrate as much as possible. Potting first in the lower part of the pot filled with 4 to 5 cm granular gravel and other things, for drainage layer, and then add 2 to 3 cm of culture soil, while the plant is placed in the center of the pot, so that the root system is fully developed, and finally filled with culture soil to the surface of the pot of 2 to 3 cm can be, but should be exposed to the plant center of the growing point and the base of the leaflets. After planting must be timely sprayed with fungicides to prevent the occurrence of epidemic mold and rot mold.?

Two, water management Anthurium belongs to the more sensitive species of salt, therefore, should try to control the substrate PH value between 5.2 to 6.2? and the most suitable for the growth of the anthurium PH value is 5.7. Suitable for the growth of the anthurium EC value of 1.2?ms?/? cm? A high EC value will result in smaller flowers and shorter stems, thus reducing the ornamental value. Spring water is suitable for planting Anthurium, but it is expensive; natural rainwater is the best source of water for Anthurium cultivation. Potted Anthurium has different water requirements at different stages of growth and development. Seedling period due to the plant's weak root system, the distribution of shallow in the substrate, intolerant of drought, should be sprayed 2 to 3 times a day after planting, often keep the substrate moist, to promote its early development of more pumping of new roots, and pay attention to the dryness and humidity of the potting substrate; in the medium and large seedlings plant growth, water demand is more, the water supply must be sufficient; flowering should be appropriately reduce the watering, and increase the application of phosphorus, potash fertilizer, in order to promote the flowering. The key to the success of large-scale cultivation of anthurium is to maintain relatively high air humidity, especially in the high temperature season, through the sprinkler system, fogging system to increase the relative humidity of the air in the greenhouse (pay attention to the evening do not spray the foliage, must ensure that the anthurium foliage at night no droplets of water) in order to avoid high temperature burns the foliage, the emergence of burnt leaves, buds deformity, discoloration phenomenon. In the watering process to grasp the wet and dry alternately, do not give watering in the plant occurs in the case of serious water shortage, which will affect its normal growth and development. In the hot season usually 2 to 3 days watering once, at noon should also use the sprinkler system to the foliage water, in order to increase the relative humidity of the room. In the cold season watering should be done between 9 a.m. and before 4 p.m. to avoid frostbite to the root system.?

The fire crane flower prefers a warm, moist and semi-shady environment, avoiding strong light exposure, and is not cold-tolerant. To raise a good fire crane flower, you need to master the following cultivation techniques: ① potting soil should be used peat soil plus 1/4 perlite, plus a small amount of bone meal or rotted cake fertilizer powder mixed preparation; the bottom of the pot needs to be padded with coarse sand and other things, in order to facilitate drainage. ② water. Growing season glue should be sufficient, wet and dry potting soil; late fall and early spring should be appropriate to control the amount of watering, potting soil should not be waterlogged. Monthly need to apply 2~3 times compound liquid fertilizer. ③ summer before and after noon need to pay attention to shade, morning and evening more sunshine; winter should be given enough light. ④ The appropriate temperature during the growing period is 20~25℃, and the overwintering room temperature should not be lower than 16℃. In the high temperature season, it is necessary to spray water on the leaf surface and sprinkle water on the ground 2~3 times a day, in order to reduce temperature and increase humidity. ⑤ Every 1~2 years in the early spring need to change the pot once, when changing the pot will be old roots and dead roots cut off, and should be more basal fertilizer, add new culture soil.

Fire crane planting techniques?

Fire crane is a perennial evergreen herb, like warmth and afraid of high temperature, in cultivation, fire crane prefers humid environment, especially in the peak growth period. In general, fire crane grows better when planted in shallow water than in transitional irrigation. Drying out leads to leaf scorch, root rot, and reduced growth rates; over-irrigation can lead to root rot and sudden yellowing of mature leaves. The best solution is a 1:1:1 solution of peat, pine bark (particulate, not too dusty) and perlite.?

The cultivation period? Fire cranes are mainly cultivated in small and medium-sized pots, most of them are sold in containers of 15 and 20 centimeters, and a small percentage in containers of 10 and 25 centimeters. The cultivation period varies depending on the species, the type of pot and the cultivation environment. In most cases, cultivators should consider them as long-term crops. Location is also a major factor in cultivation period: mostly in tropical environments, cultivated in 15-cm pots, grown in 8 to 10 months, with seedlings using 72 or 98 units of light.?

Nutrition? Moderate and consistent complete fertilization is important, and the magnesium requirement is higher in fire crane plant tissue than in most ornamentals, especially in warm climates. Because the fire crane has been in the wild for a long time, special attention should be paid to ensure its continuous and effective access to magnesium needs, per cubic meter of medium, mixed with 4.5 kg of marble and 1.6 kg of lime to balance the ratio of calcium and magnesium. In general, avoid using high nutrient fertilizers especially after transplanting seedlings. 1:1:1:1 fertilizers are recommended, and fertilizers should be applied every 1 to 2 weeks during the growing period, with no more than 250 ppm of liquid nitrogen fertilizers applied at a time.?

Temperature? Fire cranes grow best at day temperatures of 26 to 32 degrees and night temperatures of 21 to 24 degrees; temperatures above 32 degrees may result in leaf scorch disease, petal discoloration and a shorter bloom period. Night temperatures of 4 to 10 degrees result in slow growth and leaf scorch.?

Light? The actual performance of plants grown in high-intensity light environments depends on variety, altitude, temperature and nutrition. In general, most fire cranes grow well in high-intensity light from 16 to 27 kilo lux, with higher than 27 kilo lux resulting in a branching habit, wilting of flowers, and yellowing of foliage. Some growers use 39 to 54 k lux de light during the initial cultivation period to cause branching, then transplant to low intensity light until maturity.?

Disease control? A preventive maintenance program for mites, snails, slugs, worms, thrips and orange and yellow fly is important. A certain amount of chemicals can be very effective against diseases. However the cultivation environment and variety will determine the products you can safely use. Never use a preventative when plants are reacting to any form of adversity, such as moisture, high temperatures, etc. Effective fungicides are very effective against kale black rot, mildew and other diseases. The best way to prevent disease in actual cultivation is to place plants off the ground in a well-ventilated environment and avoid watering from above in the late afternoon or evening. (China Flower News 2002-11-7)

The Phalaenopsis is a favorite flower. It likes temperature and light, and does not tolerate cold, so it is easy to survive but not easy to keep well. If you want to raise good Phalaenopsis orchids in winter, you should pay special attention to strengthen the management and make more efforts in the following 5 links.

1. Soil and fertilizer management?

Phalaenopsis prefers loose and fertile neutral or weakly acidic humus soil, and the soil for cultivation can be mixed with 65% of humus soil, 20% of net sand and 15% of fine furnace ash. Since the autumn equinox to the winter solstice, the Phalaenopsis orchids should apply a solid fertilizer, should be less nitrogen fertilizer, more phosphate fertilizer, potash. Eggshell powder and composted fishy water is very good phosphorus fertilizer, chaff ash, soot is easy to get potash fertilizer. Can also apply nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium compound fertilizer, in order to promote the sprouting of more new plants and leaves. Fertilizer must be appropriate, do not apply into the thick fertilizer and unfermented rotting raw fertilizer, otherwise, it is easy to cause leaf tip scorching or rot. In winter, if the new leaves appear spotty and the roots are yellow, it means that too much fertilizer has been applied, while the new leaves are narrow, thin and particularly light in color is a sign of lack of fertilizer.?

2. Watering?

The soil should not be too dry and too wet, each watering must be watered thoroughly, and more watering after the buds appear. Can be combined with watering every 20 days or so to apply a fermented soybean cake water, light fish water and horseshoe water, etc., the watering and fertilization combined. Watering should be controlled when the room temperature is low to prevent the potting soil from becoming too wet, which can cause root rot and death, but it should not be allowed to dry out too much.?

3. Insulation?

The suitable temperature for Phalaenopsis in winter is 15℃～20℃, preferably not lower than 10℃. The temperature should be kept at about 18℃ after scuttling the arrows, and the temperature difference between day and night is best at about 10℃, otherwise the arrows will not grow to the proper height to bloom. Therefore, when the night outdoor temperature is lower than 10 ℃ should be moved indoors. When the indoor temperature is lower than 10 ℃, in addition to the surface of the potting soil covered with a layer of 1 cm thick charcoal to keep warm, it should be placed in the indoor sunny warm place. When the indoor temperature is particularly low, you can cover the film on the pot to warm up, but the temperature inside the cover can not exceed 25 ℃, if more than, then ventilation to cool down.

4. Regulate light?

While Phalaenopsis likes semi-shade environment, the longer the sunlight exposure in winter, the better. When flowering, strong light will shorten the flowering period, and weak light can prolong the flowering period. It likes warmth and coolness, and avoids severe cold and heat, generally grows well in 18℃～20℃ temperature, stops growing below 5℃, and does not suffer above 0℃. After Phalaenopsis orchids enter the room, the light is limited, and it needs to be adjusted by moving the flower pot manually. Under normal circumstances, it should be placed in the sunny part of the room during the day in order to expose it to sunlight and maintain its original color. They should also be placed under fluorescent lights at night for supplemental indoor light before blooming. As the two columns of leaves of Phalaenopsis orchids are opposite, if the light is in a position for a long time, it will make the leaves grow unevenly and affect the ornamental effect, for this reason, the adjustment of light should pay attention to the direction of the leaves, and it should be switched to the sunny side once every 10 days or so. Flower pots indoors, there are two ways, one is the leaves parallel to the sunny window, the other is the leaves perpendicular to the sunny window, the latter effect is better than the former.

5. Extend the flowering period measures?

The way to prolong the flowering period of Phalaenopsis is to place it in a place away from light when the flower is about to open, control the watering appropriately, and keep the temperature at 8℃～12℃. In this way, the flowering period can be extended for 10 to 20 days.?

Home cultivation of Phalaenopsis?

The Phalaenopsis is a single-stemmed tropical epiphytic orchid of the Orchidaceae family, with an erect thick stem that can be as high as 8 centimeters, and broad, soft, fleshy leaves that are alternate. The lower part of the stem has aerial roots growing between the leaves, and when cultivated, the surface of the culture soil is also covered with similar roots, so the roots are required to be well ventilated. The potting substrate is usually taken and the roots of syncopated species, water moss, bark pieces, coconut shell pieces, etc., as long as it is well-drained potting substrate can be used, the most commonly used is the root of the fern Ziziphus. Dry the roots, cut them into 5-centimeter-long sections, and mix them with some leaf litter or peat, and coarse sand or perlite. However, fern roots are not easily available in northern areas and can only be purchased at the flower market, so bark pieces and small moss are usually used. Bark pieces are best cut from fir bark, usually 2 parts crushed bark and 1 part peat moss, or a little coarse bone meal can be added to the mix. Moss and other moss should first be soaked in water, then the excess water should be squeezed out and mixed with some coarse sand, perlite, crushed bricks (stones), etc. can be used.?

Phalaenopsis orchids such as planted in ordinary pots, generally porous pots are good, in order to facilitate the ventilation is appropriate to use shallow pots, the height of the pot is preferably smaller than the diameter of the pot, but also can be planted in baskets made of wood or wire, also can be planted in baskets made of wood or wire, tied to the stem of the branch or tree ferns. The pots are usually half full of broken tiles for drainage, and if a hanging basket is used, a thin layer of peat moss must be laid on the bottom of the basket to prevent the loss of potting soil between the wooden slats or between the mesh holes. In general, Phalaenopsis orchids need to be repotted once a year. When the plant's root system begins to grow back (usually in the spring), that is the most suitable time to change pots. Water moss as the cultivation substrate can last for a year, so it needs to be changed once a year. Whether you are potting or repotting, do not water the newly potted plant immediately. For the first three to four weeks, it is usually only necessary to spray the leaves once a day. Changing pots is very important in the cultivation management of Phalaenopsis. Otherwise, due to the aging of the cultivation substrate and the rotting of the moss, it will lead to the deterioration of the permeability, which will make the root system grow out of the pot, and in serious cases, it will cause the root system to rot, and the growth of the plant will decline seriously, or even die. In cultivation, if you find individual plant growth weakened, or potting substrate rot impermeable, can also be changed at any time, in order to restore its growth potential.

Phalaenopsis generally requires a stable warm and humid environment throughout the year, even during the short dormant period. The optimum temperature is 25℃ to 28℃ during the day and 18℃ to 20℃ at night. Special attention should be paid to the fact that Phalaenopsis is very sensitive to low temperature and stops growing when it is at 15℃ for a long time. When the temperature is below 15℃, Phalaenopsis stops absorbing water, which leads to physiological dehydration of the plant itself, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and then the whole plant will be stripped of all its leaves and the plant will die. Due to the high humidity in the origin of Phalaenopsis, the humidity of the place where Phalaenopsis is generally cultivated should be maintained at 70% to 80% throughout the year. Water can be sprayed on the leaf surface once a day, it is better to use spray when spraying water, don't let the water droplets stay on the leaves of Phalaenopsis orchids, if it stays on the leaves for one night, black spots will appear on the part. Secondly, Phalaenopsis prefers well-ventilated environment, avoid stifling heat, poor ventilation is easy to cause rot, which will lead to weakening of the growth of the seedling plant and the occurrence of diseases. Phalaenopsis orchids need to have bright warm light throughout the year, and generally avoid strong direct light.