In addition to good management of aquatic products such as bullfrogs, you must also pay attention to daily maintenance and minimize the negative impact of drugs on bullfrogs. You can use some aquatic biological strains without side effects for adjustment and use. Jiayi Aquatic EM strain can purify water quality, improve the environment, extend the interval between water changes, enhance the immune function of aquatic animals, prevent diseases, improve health, and reduce morbidity and mortality. Here are the details of raising bullfrogs.
The raising of bullfrogs should be carried out in the following stages:
1. Management of tadpoles
1. Regularly patrol the pond and record in time
The breeding pond must be inspected every morning and evening, and the temperature, water temperature, water quality, and living conditions of the tadpoles (such as whether there are floating heads, leftover food last time, etc.) should be recorded in a timely manner, and any problems discovered should be dealt with promptly. For newly hatched tadpoles and tadpoles at the peak of metamorphosis, special attention should be paid to observation and management.
2. Control water temperature and water level
The most suitable water temperature is 23~30℃. If the water temperature is higher than 35℃, the water must be changed in time. Drain 1/4 to 1/2 of the original pool water and introduce clean water with a lower water temperature. If the water quality is contaminated, similar water replacement measures need to be taken.
The water level should generally be kept at a depth of about 40 to 60 centimeters. When raising tadpoles or when the water temperature is low, the water level should be lower, otherwise it should be higher.
3. Control water quality
The water quality of the tadpole pool should be clean, the dissolved oxygen in the water should be greater than 3 mg/L, the salinity should be less than 2‰, and the pH value should be between 6.6 and 8.2. The quality of water can generally be estimated by looking at the water color with the naked eye:
Thin water: The water is more transparent and there are fewer plankton in the water.
Fatter water: grass green with yellow – more turbid. There are many Chlorococcus algae and Cryptoalgae in the water, as well as some yellow-green algae.
Fertilizer water: light yellowish brown with green color - less turbidity. There are many frog algae, golden algae, and yellow algae in the water, as well as some green algae. Yellowish brown - less turbidity. The water mainly contains frog algae. Oily green - less turbidity. The water is mainly composed of cryptophytes and green bulbs. Generally, fermented manure is applied to the pool water and the color will often appear like this.
Disease water: red with brown color - turbid. The water contains blooms of red dinoflagellates. Tadpoles cannot be digested after being eaten, and they can pollute the water quality and cause tadpole poisoning. The rescue method is to remove the tadpoles promptly and then clean the pond.
The deterioration of water quality (diseased water), in addition to the excessive reproduction of certain plankton, may also be caused by humus fermentation, rotten food residues, lack of oxygen in the water, water sources being polluted by industrial and domestic water, and tadpoles due to It is caused by diseases and insect pests causing death, rotting of the body, and the spread of germs.
Once the phenomenon of water pollution and deterioration is discovered, water change should be adopted to solve the problem. When changing water, do not suddenly make the water temperature and other ecological factors vary too much. Generally, the water change amount is 1/4 to 1/2, and Pay attention to the water change time. It is best to breed tadpoles in fertile water or relatively fertile water. In the case of artificial feeding, thin water can also be used.
4. Always keep the pool water clean and hygienic
(1) If there are suspended debris, floating films, dead tadpoles and other animals on the water surface, they should be fished out and dealt with in time.
(2) The bait table should be taken out frequently, cleaned, disinfected with bleaching powder or exposed to sunlight for sterilization. The food left on the bait table after the tadpoles have eaten it must be removed in time to prevent it from rotting in the pond water.
(3) After several months of breeding, if there is sludge accumulated on the bottom of the pond and food residues that have sunk after spraying, they must be removed in time.
5. Deal with the serious floating phenomenon of tadpoles in a timely manner
When the water temperature is high, tadpoles usually float on the water around dawn. In addition, the weather is extremely hot and hot, and the water must be changed immediately. Or turn on the aerator.
6. Do a good job in expanding the pond and maintain an appropriate stocking density
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Under normal circumstances, the breeding density of tadpoles from newly hatched to 10 days old 1,000 to 2,000 frogs per square meter is suitable; 500 to 1,000 frogs are suitable between 11 and 30 days old; 100 to 130 frogs are suitable between 30 days old and before they metamorphose into young frogs.
The determination of density is related to factors such as the tadpole growth period, body size, feeding status, management level, etc., and can change with time, place and specific conditions.
7. Do a good job in tadpole overwintering management
Under natural conditions in temperate areas, the overwintering period generally starts from November to March of the following year. The specific management work is as follows:
(1) Keep the pool water 1 meter deep.
The bottom water temperature can be maintained at about 5°C, and tadpoles can survive the winter safely even if the surface water freezes and accumulates snow.
(2) Prepare water and oxygen supply equipment and measures. If the water level drops or the water temperature is low; if the bottom sludge is fermented and lacks oxygen, it can be filled with water and aerated in time. It is best to clean up the sludge at the bottom of the pond before wintering to reduce oxygen consumption.
Ponds with conditions can control the water temperature above 15℃. If it can reach 20~30℃, the tadpoles can still grow and metamorphose normally.
2. Management of young frogs
Baby frogs refer to small frogs that have just completed metamorphosis and have not yet reached sexual maturity.
Newly metamorphosed frogs only eat live animals, so they must be fed live bait and gradually trained to eat dead bait. The ratio of live bait to dead bait for 1-month-old frogs is 2:1; for 1.5-month-old frogs, the ratio is 1:1; for 3-month-old frogs, all dead bait can be fed. The size of the dead bait should be such that the young frog can swallow it in one bite. If it is too large and difficult for the young frog to swallow, it may compete with each other, which consumes time and energy in eating bait, which is detrimental to the growth and development of the young frog.
The amount of bait should be enough to finish eating the last amount of bait, which should be controlled as appropriate. Generally speaking, as the young frogs grow and the water temperature increases, the feeding amount should gradually increase. Usually, the daily feeding amount is 5% to 10% of the body weight of the young frogs.
Throwing
The types of live bait and dead bait should be determined according to the conditions of breeding bait in various places, the situation of bait resources and the season. It should be able to satisfy the growth and development of young frogs. As needed, we strive to provide diversified, nutritious and low-price baits. From the current point of view, to supply large quantities of baby frog bait, the more reliable way is to vigorously carry out artificial breeding of earthworms, snails, and maggots; to purchase scraps from nearby slaughterhouses and food factories ; Produce or purchase artificial bait; use black light to trap insects, etc.
Many of the daily management tasks for young frogs are similar to those for tadpoles.
1. Control the water temperature
The most suitable water temperature is 23~30℃. If the water temperature is higher than 35℃, cooling measures must be taken. Such as partial water changes, adding a pergola, etc.
2. Control water quality
The most suitable pH value is 6 to 8. Remaining bait should be removed frequently, and dead frogs, rotten plants, floating films and other foreign matter should be fished out. If the water quality is contaminated, the water must be changed or disinfected to keep it clean. Because young frogs mainly breathe through their lungs, their requirements for water quality, especially the oxygen content in the water, are not as strict as those of tadpoles, but they still cannot be ignored.
3. Keep the land moist at all times, plant crops or build sheds to avoid strong light
4. Timely classification and pool management: young frogs grow and develop quickly, and individual frogs grow quickly. The difference is huge
In order to raise and manage the frogs more scientifically and prevent the big frogs from eating the little frogs, after each breeding period, frogs should be sorted according to their individual sizes using frog dividers and managed in separate pools. The breeding density should be appropriate. Generally, the number of young frogs within 40 days of age (referring to the age calculated after the completion of metamorphosis) is about 100 per square meter, and the number of young frogs after 40 days of age is about 70.
5. Regularly prevent and control pests, diseases and natural enemies
For example, mice are a natural enemy of young frogs. In some young frog breeding ponds (30 square meters), an average of more than 40 frogs were killed and eaten by rats every day within a week, and the most were more than 110 rats killed in one night.
6. Do a good job in overwintering management of young frogs
When the water temperature drops to 6°C and the air temperature reaches about 10°C, the young frogs enter a hibernation state. Winter management of young frogs should be done before and after hibernation.
(1) Preparation and management of underground hibernation: Young frogs often spend the winter lurking in moist poolside caves and tree root gaps 30 to 40 centimeters above the freezing layer. According to this habit, before winter, artificially provide overwintering conditions for young frogs and create some overwintering methods:
① Overwintering in caves: dig loose soil around the young frogs, and place them in a sunny and wind-proof place 20 cm away from the water Dig several caves with a diameter of 13 centimeters and a depth of 1 meter. The caves should be kept moist, but the caves should not be flooded by pool water. Young frogs will automatically drill into caves to survive the winter before winter.
②
Overwintering in plastic sheds: In the original young frog pond 30 cm above the water surface, hang a plastic film to protect the bullfrogs from overwintering. You can also use bamboo wood or steel bars to build an arched or human-shaped shed over the pool. The roof of the shed is about 2 meters above the ground. It is covered with two layers of thin plastic film and is connected to the edge of the pool to form a sealed warm cover. , seal the film with mud around it, and it is best to cover the film with a layer of sparse mesh to prevent strong winds from blowing the film.
If the outside temperature drops below 0°C, the film can be covered with another straw curtain.
On sunny days, open the straw curtain to let in sunlight and keep the overwintering pool above 10°C. When the temperature rises in spring, gradually lift off the plastic film to allow air to circulate and prevent overheating.
③ Overwintering in a straw shed: Pile a mound in the northeast of the young frog pond to block the north wind, and set up a large straw shed 30 centimeters from the water. The four sides of the straw shed are close to the edge of the pool. Several tile tubes are placed deep in the northeast for bullfrogs to gather in and overwinter. During the entire overwintering period, the water temperature can be maintained at about 10°C. After 4 months of overwintering, the bullfrog has grown well.
④ Overwintering in haystacks: Pile a haystack in the sunny and leeward direction of the breeding pond, or spread loose soil 50 cm thick, cover it with a haystack, keep it moist, and then cover it with a layer of plastic film. When the temperature drops, bullfrogs can burrow into haystacks to survive the winter. In case of special cold weather, you can add a thicker pile of hay and a layer of plastic film to keep it warm.
⑤
Overwintering in tanks and barrels: When breeding bullfrogs in small quantities, bullfrogs can also be placed in tanks or barrels to overwinter. The specific method is: first put some soil in the cylinder or bucket, with the middle high and the surrounding low, shaped like a steamed bun. Pour appropriate water around the depression to keep the soil at high altitudes moist and leave a small amount of water around. After placing the bullfrog in a tank or bucket, cover it with water plants or turf, and cover the tank mouth with a straw curtain, sack, or cotton wool to prevent the frog from escaping. Pile grass around the tanks and barrels to keep them warm. If the temperature inside the cylinder or bucket is too low,
you can place a lamp inside the cylinder or bucket to heat it, or fill a plastic bucket with hot water and place it in it for proper heating.
(2) Deepen the water layer for overwintering: Before winter, deepen the water level of the young frog pond to 1 meter. Since there is 30-50 cm thick sludge under the frog pond, the bullfrogs will drill in on their own. sludge. On the one hand, sludge has thermal insulation properties, and on the other hand, it releases heat due to fermentation, which can increase the water temperature by 2°C. In this way, bullfrogs can safely overwinter in deep water sludge.
(3) Other overwintering methods: As long as a pest-free environment of 6 to 12°C (water temperature or air temperature), moisture, and a certain amount of oxygen (contained in air or water) is provided in winter, the young frogs will be safe. Overwinter. There are many other methods, such as overwintering in indoor brick pools, hot spring water, circulating warm water, etc.
During the overwintering process
the young frogs cannot eat, close their eyes and slowly breathe with their lungs, and even only use their skin for low-level gas exchange in low-temperature water. If the ambient temperature rises above 10°C, the young frogs can wake up, breathe more intensively, and start to move and even eat. At this time, it is advisable to provide some food or try to cool down to make them enter dormant state again. The environment of the dormant young frogs should be kept quiet, especially to prevent damage from enemies, such as mice. Therefore, the young frogs at this time have no ability to defend themselves against enemies. During the winter, the overwintering situation should be checked frequently; if there are dead frogs, they should be removed in time; if diseases such as red leg disease are found, they should be treated in time to prevent the spread of infection.
3. Feeding and management of adult frogs
Adult frogs become sexually mature after one year of breeding. The smallest adult frog is about 11 cm long and weighs about 200 grams.
The management of adult frogs is basically the same as that of young frogs, but adult frogs have strong mobility and are good at jumping, so attention should be paid to the maintenance of the fence to prevent escape. Adult frogs eat a lot and excrete a lot of waste. The water must always be kept clean and not polluted. In summer, it is best to change the water every day, the water change amount is 1/2, and the temperature difference should not exceed 2℃. The breeding density of adult frogs is generally 40 per square meter.
4. Breeding and management of parent frogs
Parent frogs are adult frogs that are selected for breeding and breeding and have grown for 2 to 3 years. The general weight is about 500 grams.
Parent frogs consume the largest amount of food and are more nutritious to meet their needs for growth and reproduction. Generally, the daily feeding amount for each frog is 10% of its body weight. There should be many types of food and comprehensive nutrition, and animal food should not be used. Less than 60%. The food intake of parent frogs decreases when they are in estrus, and they basically stop eating when they are in mating, laying eggs, and ejaculating. After that, their food intake increases significantly. The amount of feed should be increased or decreased as appropriate based on the above conditions.
Generally, feeding is done once a day in the evening, at a fixed point and at a regular time, and the feeding table must be cleaned frequently to keep it clean and hygienic.
The parent frog pond is not only a place for parent frogs to feed and live, but more importantly, it is also a place for egg laying and excretion. It is also a place for egg hatching without artificial incubation. Therefore, management work requires a high level, and the surrounding environmental conditions must be suitable not only for the parent frogs, but also for the fertilization and hatching of the eggs.
1. The optimal water temperature should be controlled at 25~27℃, and the suitable water temperature is 23~30℃. Otherwise, it will be detrimental to the growth, development and reproduction of the parent frog.
2. The environment should be kept quiet and no noise should be avoided.
3. The water level in the pool should be maintained at 15 to 40 centimeters, and its depth is related to maintaining a suitable water temperature. The water should be changed frequently to ensure good water quality. Its dissolved oxygen, salinity, pH value, biological composition, etc. must be suitable for egg fertilization and egg hatching (see the ecological part of Chapter 2 for details). Because the water in the pool is shallow and the water temperature is prone to change, special attention should be paid to the harm to eggs caused by excessive water temperature in hot summer weather.
4. The breeding density of parent frogs must be greatly reduced, generally 1 to 2 per square meter. Otherwise, it will be extremely detrimental to reproduction.
5. After the parent frog lays eggs, the eggs should generally be carefully lifted out in a basin in a timely manner (within a few hours) (do not reverse the up and down position of the eggs, and do not stir the egg masses). Gently put them into the incubation tank (box) and incubate them separately to strengthen management and protection and improve the hatching rate.
6. Beware of various natural enemies from preying on the parent frogs and the eggs they lay. Because the parent frog in the embrace is in a state of reproductive excitement, it is insensitive to the invasion of natural enemies and inconvenient to move, and its ability to defend against enemies is greatly reduced; and the frog eggs are more likely to be swallowed by fish, other frogs and other animals.
7. Pay special attention to the overwintering work of parent frogs (the method is similar to that of adult frogs). If you are careless, the losses caused will be much greater than the same number of young frogs and adult frogs.