219-3-12 9:4 The Paper Wang Renxiang
Pancakes are delicious for northerners. Traditional pancakes are actually burritos. Thin round cakes roll up different meats and vegetables and eat them directly with your hands. From the traditional pancakes, there are also various pies, which are improved pancakes.
old Beijing genre picture of pancakes
The raw material used in ancient pancakes should be millet, and millet miscellaneous grains pancakes are one of the common foods of ancient northerners. Pancakes have a long history, and many archaeological evidences show that there has been a diversified development trend of pancake food in prehistory in China. Prehistoric people not only had noodles, but also pancakes and scones. Yangshao people have created cooking utensils such as pottery pots, and pancakes have a history of 5 years.
Later, pancake pans were unearthed in different times, and many murals of pancake baking in different times were also found, revealing the real existence of pancakes in history. We can think about the origin of pancakes while eating them, and make a trip to the source of pancakes from near to far to see what kind of historical taste they have fried.
pancakes in the Qing dynasty can be seen from Pu Songling's "Pancake Fu": "When you turn your hand over, you will make a hundred in an instant. Round at the full moon, as big as a bronze pheasant, as thin as paper in a brook, and as colored as a yellow crane. " Very vivid description, this is Shandong pancake. Shandong pancakes, rolled with green onions and sometimes with meat, are still used today. In the Qing Dynasty, Fuping, Shaanxi Province kept the custom of filling the sky with pancakes, which was circulated in history. On the 2th day of the first month, bread was placed on the house, which was called "filling the sky and the earth". This is to pray for good weather. In the Qing Dynasty, Mayi, Shanxi Province, took 25th as the "God's storehouse" and ate buckwheat pancakes.
Liu ruoyu in the Ming dynasty said in "Notes on Deliberation": "On the second day of February ... every family used millet-flour jujube cakes and fried them in oil, or they called noodles and sparse stalls pancakes, which were called smoked insects." Miscellaneous Notes of Wan Department also said: "Spread pancakes with noodles, and smoke the bed to keep insects from growing." This is a very strange way to smoke insects, such as ants and bedbugs. In 1967, Dongyanglou Village, Shengzhuang Town, Tai 'an City found a "separation contract" in the Wanli period of Ming Dynasty, which recorded "a plate of cigarettes and 23 kilograms of pancakes". If you want to divide your family into pancakes, you can know that pancakes that can be stored are also considered a property.
Buckwheat pancake was clearly recorded in the literature of Yuan Dynasty, which should be the eating style in Shanxi. "Wang Zhen Nong Shu Gu Pu Er" said: Buckwheat is "peeled, ground into flour, spread as pancakes, and eaten with garlic". Eating pancakes with garlic is very different from using onions in Shandong. In the Yuan Dynasty, besides ordinary pancakes, there were already stuffed pancakes. For example, in The Complete Works of Household Necessities, there were seven treasure rolls and gold and silver rolls. Seven treasure rolls were mutton pies, and gold and silver rolls were egg rolls. The latter was almost the same as the pancakes we can see today.
In the Song Dynasty, pancakes were used in some special festivals, such as People's Day, Wearing Day and Begging for Cleverness Day, and they were all given special uses. Some customs should be inherited from the tradition of the previous dynasty, while others were initiated by the Song people. Zhang Jian, a Song Dynasty poet, recorded different festivals and customs, and mentioned that "the first month, the New Year's Day family dinner, the beginning of spring Spring Festival, and the people's day pancakes". It is also an early tradition for people to eclipse pancakes. See also Miscellaneous Notes on the Year of the Year: "The day before yesterday, people swept the dung broom. When people didn't walk, they covered it with seven pancakes and abandoned it to send it to the poor." Throwing a few pancakes is a very special way to send blessings to the poor. Pancakes make up the sky can be found in Li Gou's poem "Make up the sky": "A few years after the emperor died, summer is summer and winter is nature. Only idle women in the world, a pancake to wear. " How to patch up pancakes? We'll talk about it later. Pancakes are used for the Qiaoqiao Festival, and they are also found in Miscellanies of the Year: "On Tanabata, people in the capital also make pancakes for cows and women to eat." On Tanabata, people in Beijing want to eat pancakes themselves, and they also want to offer sacrifices to cowherd and weaver girl, for fear that they will be hungry when they meet.
Archaeologists found a picture of Cook's Pancakes in the murals of the Song Dynasty tombs in Gaocun, Dengfeng, Henan Province. On the picture, there are three deacons, one is rolling noodles, the other is baking pancakes with a pan, and the other is picking up the baked cakes to leave. Judging from the appearance of the pancake pan, it should be flat and borderless, but the pancake should be rolled first and then branded, which is slightly different from the pancake technology.
Pancakes in Song Dynasty Tomb Murals in Gaocun, Dengfeng, Henan
Pancakes in Liao Dynasty can be read in Liao History and Rites Six: "People's day, ... common pancakes are eaten in court, which is called' Xuntian'." Eating pancakes in the courtyard is called "fumigation", which should be bad luck. In the eyes of the ancients, pancakes were so powerful.
Pancakes have been read a lot in the literature of the Tang Dynasty, some in the description of daily life, some in the description of festivals and customs, and some in some interesting legends. In the Tang Dynasty, people in the north loved to eat pancakes, and all households could make them. Tai Ping Guang Ji quoted Hedong Ji as saying "inviting guests for pancakes at night", and quoted Shan Shui Xiao Ju as saying: "Gather all the sons and nephews at night to hide hooks and eat pancakes." Playing games and having pasta pancakes at night is a very pleasant nightlife. That is to say, pancakes are common things in daily life.
Literati love pancakes, too. Tang Yi Yan said: Duan Wei of the Tang Dynasty "loves pancakes by nature, and tastes like a literary society. Every pancake is cooked and endowed with a rhyme". A pancake is cooked and a poem is written. Pancakes are also included in the court meals. The Six Codes of the Tang Dynasty describes that Guanglu Temple prepares meals for officials, saying, "Add pancakes on March 3rd", which is Shangsi Festival, and pancakes are regarded as a seasonal food. See Wenchang Miscellaneous Records: "In the Tang Dynasty, there are Tu Su wine, spiced plates and rubber teeth in the Yuan Dynasty, pancakes in the People's Day and silk cages in the Yuan Dynasty." It is also an ancient custom for people to eclipse pancakes.
in the section of "Tie Pancakes" in Chen Yuanliang's "Guang Ji at the Age of Years" in the Southern Song Dynasty, Li Bai's poem "A pancake fills the sky" was quoted, so it can be seen that there is also a saying that the sky wears the sun in the Tang Dynasty. However, there is a question here. Li Bai may not have to be suspicious after eating pancakes, but did he really write such a poem? Maybe he has eaten pancakes and written poems, but he didn't see them in Tang poetry. Is this sentence "A pancake can mend the sky" really his poem? In the poem of Li Gou in the Northern Song Dynasty mentioned above, there is such a sentence that "a pancake fills the sky". Did Chen Yuanjing plant the poem by mistake, or did Li Gou borrow Li Bai's poem? A small pancake can fill a hole in the sky, which is really a wonderful idea.
Pancakes generally entered people's lives in the Tang Dynasty, which can be clearly seen from the pancake stories mentioned in relevant literature. In Song Dynasty, Sun Guangxian recorded a story in "A Dream in the North": In Chang 'an, Tang Dynasty, someone bought a low-lying land at a low price, and he invited an old woman to make pancakes on the ground, inducing children to throw bricks and tiles in the low-lying land, and the winner of the paper bid got a pancake. The children threw bricks and pancakes, and soon the bricks and tiles filled the low-lying land. The man built a shop and made a lot of money. It was regarded as "wisdom" by the ancients to induce children to pick up bricks and tiles to fill the depression with pancakes.
The world loves pancakes, and it also brings out the ghost's greed. Tang people love to talk about ghosts, and pancakes also appear in many nonsense. There are several stories about "Pancakes attract ghosts" in "A Dream in the North", saying that "Cooking pancakes at night attracts more ghosts". See "Youyang Miscellaneous" again, saying that there were more than ten monks eating pancakes one night in longxing temple, Lingzhou, and ghosts "begged for a pancake". When you say ghosts love pancakes, you are still talking about people. Gourmet people and ghosts are addicted to each other.
There were pancakes in the Jin Dynasty, and they were given a specific meaning. The Sui people's "Narration" said: "Northerners eclipse pancakes in court with people, and the common cloud fumigates the sky." This statement is originally from the account in the Chronicle of Jingchu's Years in the Southern Liang Dynasty: "The northerners made pancakes during the solar eclipse in the court, and the clouds smoked the sky, which was unknown." This day refers to the seventh day of July. As I said before, there is also a saying that pancakes are used to fumigate the sky and insects. The custom has been passed down for thousands of years.
In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, there was a story about pancakes entering riddles. Emperor Gaozu of the Northern Qi Dynasty took "the law of death" as a riddle, and some people guessed that it was pancakes. Zulu Geda may be Turkic, translated into Chinese is the combination of fire and food, or Chinese, and these four words are cut from the front and back, and the combination of fire and food just forms the word pancake.
A batch of Wei-Jin tombs were found in Jiayuguan, Gansu Province, and a large number of painted brick paintings were unearthed. Many pictures showed the cooking activities at that time, including two pictures of pancake stalls. One of the cooks held the pancake with both hands, as if she thought it was fried well.
Brick-painted Pancakes Unearthed from Wei and Jin Tombs in Jiayuguan, Gansu
There is no clear document in Han Dynasty about pancakes, but there are pancakes, among which there should be pancakes. For example, we know that Gao Zu Liu Bang's hometown is Feng, where there is a cake shop. That place is close to the boundary of Shandong today, so the cake shop may not sell pancakes. According to "Miscellanies of Xijing", Liu Bang, the emperor gaozu of Han Dynasty, made his capital in Guanzhong, and his father Taigong, who followed him to Chang 'an, missed his hometown and was unhappy. Liu Bangling imitated the layout of the streets and lanes of his hometown Fengdi in Liyi, rebuilt a new city for the emperor's father, and moved the old place here, which made the emperor's father happy. This is a very successful long-distance relocation and reconstruction project. With the relocation of pancake shops, the chief designer has gone down in history.
going back from the Han dynasty, there is no clue to the existence of pancakes. However, three thousand years later, in prehistoric times, unexpected discoveries were made. In Qijia Cultural Site in Lajia Village, Minhe County, Qinghai Province, some cave-style houses were excavated 4, years ago. Some rooms have fireplaces built with slate in one corner, and these fireplaces should be used for pancake making. At that time, millet noodles had been made, and millet pancakes might be available.
Archaeology has confirmed that Yangshao cultural residents have created pottery cakes. The earliest cake cakes were found in the ruins 5, years ago, and were made of clay. A kind of pottery with a special shape was excavated in two Yangshao cultural sites, namely, Dianjuntai and Qingtai, Xingyang, Henan Province. The pottery clay was mixed with sand, with a circular plane on the top and three or four feet on the bottom, and there was smoke on the bottom. The digger called this utensil a "food dryer" and thought it was "the ancestor of the iron shovel used to make pancakes", which was a good inference. It was indeed a pottery pancake shovel, and it should have been made of millet pancakes at that time.
Ancient pancake pans
In some areas in the north, it is popular to make pancake fruits that are sold and eaten now. The standard frying pan for pancakes is called Pan, which has a flat surface and three legs, or a different flat iron plate in Fiona Fang. Regular pancake pan is called pancake pan, which is a sharp weapon for pancakes and pancakes. Shuo Wen Zhu Du said: "The surface of the noodle is round and flat, with three feet and two inches high." It can be seen that in ancient times, it was a cooker dedicated to pancakes.
where there is tobacco, there are pancakes. The origin of pancakes and pancakes can be traced back to the emergence of pancake tobacco. Archaeology has found some ancient cymbals and pans, in addition to prehistoric pottery cymbals dating back more than 5, years, there are also iron cymbals and bronze cymbals belonging to Liao, Song, Jin, Xixia and Yuan Dynasties.
Pancakes found in archaeology
Pancakes are a kind of pasta and the most historical pasta. In the past, some scholars thought that the dietary tradition in ancient China was a grain-eating tradition, and the pasta tradition originated late and became more popular in Han Dynasty. Some people also think that pasta technology was introduced from outland in Han Dynasty, which is obviously too conservative. We found that there were pottery pots that baked pancakes in the Neolithic Age, and the view that China's ancient pasta tradition originated late was shattered.
Pancakes are also very cultural pasta, which can satisfy hunger, make up the sky, and accompany us to spend the festive season. It is very useful. Pancakes are also constantly changing and improving, with new looks and new tastes. It is an indispensable role in our diet. In ancient times, many special foods had both the functions of nourishing the body and mind. They were assigned to different festivals, such as Yuanxiao in Shangyuan, Zongzi in Dragon Boat Festival, moon cakes in Mid-Autumn Festival, jiaozi in Winter Solstice, and pancakes in Summer Solstice. The literati's feelings turned into national feelings, and these foods also turned into distinctive historical and cultural symbols. Pancake is one of the largest symbols. Don't forget to eat it on the seventh day of the first month, and don't forget to make up the sky.