in late autumn, the harvest of the Tian family has been harvested for one year. At this time, pay the rent and pay the food, and everything is in order. Farmers will use the surplus grain to make wine for the winter solstice and New Year's Day to enjoy gods, worship ancestors and family banquets. The Book of Songs in July sings: "Peel the dates in August and get the rice in October. For this reason, spring wine is used to celebrate the longevity of eyebrows. " The custom of brewing wine in October has been circulating in this yellow land for more than two thousand years.
The winter wine brewed by Tianjia mostly uses miscellaneous grains as raw materials and herbs as koji, and the purity is low, so people call it "turbid wine" and "miscellaneous wine". Zhu Jun, a Song Dynasty poet, also recorded the trick of brewing winter wine in the Classic of Wine, saying, "Holding the urn for winter mash and making wine in the winter moon makes people hold the urn quickly and taste good." In order to brew a pot of fine wine, farmers have to hold wine jars themselves.
besides brewing wine in October, there is also the custom of brewing "preserved wine" in December. Shen Chu, a Qing dynasty, recorded: "Sioux City is all about making wine at the bottom of wax, and it is clear in mid-April, with good color and taste." It is said that Suzhou people are used to making wine in late December and taking it out in April next year.
the brewing method of "preserved wine" was recorded as early as in Han 'e's Four Seasons Compendium in the Tang Dynasty: "On the twelfth day (the eighth day of December), take a stone of water, put it in a jar, soak it for three times at the end of koji, and then eat four buckets of rice. On the fifteenth day of the first month of the next year, three buckets of rice will be planted. On February 2 nd, there were three buckets of rice. It will be opened until April 28. " It's a pity that although this wax wine is named after brewing in December, it will be made into drinking in the early summer of next year, so it is not "wax wine" that was drunk in the old winter.
Lu You, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, also mentioned "preserved wine" in his poem "A Tour of Shanxi Village": "Don't laugh at the peasant's preserved wine, and keep enough chickens and dolphins in good years. The mountain overlapping water flow twists and turns is worried that no way can walk, the willow green flowers suddenly appear a mountain village. The days of blowing Xiao and playing the drums were close, and the villagers were still dressed in a simple fashion. From now on, if you take a leisurely ride on the moon, the staff will knock at the door all night. "
At the end of the winter season, the author lost his way in Shan Ye. While he was secretly worried, suddenly the road ahead was clear and a village appeared. When the peasant people saw the arrival of the guests, they enthusiastically took out the winter-brewed turbid wine and killed chickens and dolphins to feast the guests. The author was moved by the sincerity of the farmer's hospitality, saying that if it rises from now on, he will come to the farmer with the bright moon and get drunk.
interestingly, according to the description in the poem, it can be judged that the season is around the Winter Solstice and New Year's Day, so his so-called "preserved wine" is actually winter wine brewed in October of the lunar calendar.
In addition to common names such as "turbid wine" and "miscellaneous wine", winter brewing also has elegant names such as "autumn dew white", "October white", "Du Maochai", "bamboo leaf green", "osmanthus yellow" and "rose red". Among them, the last three may be related to the ingredients added in winter brewing, among which "osmanthus yellow" is probably the "osmanthus winter brewing" that is still very popular in Suzhou today.
Osmanthus fragrans is the city flower of Suzhou, and Guilin is often used as a landscape in Suzhou gardens. In the Mid-Autumn Festival, people collect and pickle the sweet-scented osmanthus in full bloom, and then they can make seasonal delicacies such as Osmanthus Jelly, sweet-scented osmanthus taro seedlings and sweet-scented osmanthus Lantern Festival. In addition, it is to brew osmanthus winter wine. Today's osmanthus winter wine is not brewed by the people themselves, but produced by wineries, so it is more fragrant and pure. Traveling to Suzhou in winter and drinking two cups of seasonal wine can better appreciate the charming flavor of Jiangnan.
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